I need some help understanding carved depth and witdth when applying a bit to a path

[Jrdarrah]

I'm experimenting with a new "Amana Tool 45783 Carving Liner Single Flute Solid Carbide Router Bit, 1/4-Inch Shank" which is an 18deg V-bit to see how fine a line I can carve. I've imported the drawing that was created using ai2mpc to generate paths. I've verified that the paths look correct in the cw software but when I route them two things happen. It goes deeper than I want and the bottom of the routed groove is flat and not v-shaped as I expected. Attached are a couple of photos showing the grooves and a groove with the bit. For now I want to know why the groove is a whole lot wider than I'd expect from the bit (see second photo). I told the cw software it is a 90deg v-bit. Would another bit work better? My understanding of paths is that the bit goes to the depth specified and follows the x,y points on the path. This one was specified as 0.01 deep but measures but carves at about 0.034 deep and is 0.058 wide plus or minus instead of about 0.037 wide based on the bit geometry.

Any ideas on what might cause the groove to be way wider than expected and not v-shaped?

Is there a calibration I can do to get better results?

[AskBud]

I'm experimenting with a new "Amana Tool 45783 Carving Liner Single Flute Solid Carbide Router Bit, 1/4-Inch Shank" which is an 18deg V-bit to see how fine a line I can carve. I've imported the drawing that was created using ai2mpc to generate paths. I've verified that the paths look correct in the cw software but when I route them two things happen. It goes deeper than I want and the bottom of the routed groove is flat and not v-shaped as I expected. Attached are a couple of photos showing the grooves and a groove with the bit. For now I want to know why the groove is a whole lot wider than I'd expect from the bit (see second photo). I told the cw software it is a 90deg v-bit. Would another bit work better? My understanding of paths is that the bit goes to the depth specified and follows the x,y points on the path. This one was specified as 0.01 deep but measures but carves at about 0.034 deep and is 0.058 wide plus or minus instead of about 0.037 wide based on the bit geometry.

Any ideas on what might cause the groove to be way wider than expected and not v-shaped?

Is there a calibration I can do to get better results?
We must see your MPC to assess your perceived problem.
I see no "V", therefore, I suspect a designing flaw.
AskBud

[Jrdarrah]

How do I upload the mpc? Don't see how to attach a file to the reply here.

[AskBud]

How do I upload the mpc? Don't see how to attach a file to the reply here.Once you click on Reply, go to ADVANCED and MANAGE ATTACHMENTS.
AskBud

[Jrdarrah]

mpc file attached.

[Router-Jim]

How do I upload the mpc? Don't see how to attach a file to the reply here.

After you click the reply tab, select "go advanced". Scroll down and click the "manage attachments" button.

HTH

Jim

[James RS]

The one thing I saw was the lines are not conforming to a smooth curve at all, zig zagging. Was the original art a good quality or a Bitmap

[AskBud]

mpc file attached.
I would look to the bit or chuck as my source of problem. I presume that you did not "re-size" the carve.
I did a test carve of the first figure, using a 22.5 degree v-bit. I watched every little carve.
In some cases, it just looked like the bit made a dot and moved on.
I presume that the "Path0" is for the 2nd carve figure, I did not delete anything nor let the carve finish.

Were I to do this figure, at the depth you have set, I would probably carve it on a finished board so the etching (that's what it looks like) would appear in the original wood color.
AskBud

[Jrdarrah]

I would look to the bit or chuck as my source of problem. I presume that you did not "re-size" the carve.
I did a test carve of the first figure, using a 22.5 degree v-bit. I watched every little carve.
In some cases, it just looked like the bit made a dot and moved on.
I presume that the "Path0" is for the 2nd carve figure, I did not delete anything nor let the carve finish.

Were I to do this figure, at the depth you have set, I would probably carve it on a finished board so the etching (that's what it looks like) would appear in the original wood color.
AskBud

I sent the mpc file to the cw without resizing I'll watch it do the whole carving. I have a metal lathe so I can chuck the bit and see if it has excessive runout.
Are there any calibrations I can do on the machine to make it more accurate?

[AskBud]

I sent the mpc file to the cw without resizing I'll watch it do the whole carving. I have a metal lathe so I can chuck the bit and see if it has excessive runout.
Are there any calibrations I can do on the machine to make it more accurate?
I think it is your bit!
If it looks live this bit, I think you will find that it catves on the outer edge, rather than the "Center" of the shank like our other bits. I, therefore, is working like a Brad-Point drill/cutter, making a flat slot as wide as the spin of the tip.
AskBud

[Jrdarrah]

where did you get the 22.5 deg bit?

[dbfletcher]

I have the same bit, but did not try your MPC yet. I have carved some very small hand traced text with this bit so I dont think it is the bit. Look at the second image from this webpage that shows the profile of the bit and the sample cut.

http://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-45783-Carving-Carbide/dp/B0025VK8PE
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0025VK8PE/ref=dp_otherviews_z_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&img=1

[Jrdarrah]

I just spun the bit on my metal lathe and ran it up against a piece of copper to see how wide the tip swung. It didn't have any runout. I guess it might be my chuck. I'll get down to the shop later and watch the carving as it goes around the arcs which will make it easier to see if it cuts one wide pass or multiple (for some screwy reason) passes.

[Jrdarrah]

I think it is my chuck. I've been having a hard time getting bits out and when I put the carving bit in I could wiggle it around. I'm going to pull the original chuck and clean it good. Not hopeful, but would like to finish this project.
What is the recommended replacement chuck, the new CW or a 3rd party one?

[AskBud]

I think it is my chuck. I've been having a hard time getting bits out and when I put the carving bit in I could wiggle it around. I'm going to pull the original chuck and clean it good. Not hopeful, but would like to finish this project.
What is the recommended replacement chuck, the new CW or a 3rd party one?
Both the Rock and the carveTight (CT) are good.
If you are having any other problems with your Truck, it would be smarter to get the CT.

I sure would like to have that figure turned 90 degrees!
It would be good on a doorknob hanger!
AskBud

[spalted]

I think it is my chuck. I've been having a hard time getting bits out and when I put the carving bit in I could wiggle it around. I'm going to pull the original chuck and clean it good. Not hopeful, but would like to finish this project.
What is the recommended replacement chuck, the new CW or a 3rd party one?

I have the Rock Chuck and I am very happy with it and Ron is great to deal with to.
It sounds like the Carvetight is good too.

But I would suggest you check everything. I had trouble with my spindle bearings and had to replace the truck. It had symptoms similar to a bad chuck. So clean and check everything to eliminate other possibilities.

[Jrdarrah]

here you go. Where can I get instructions for removing the old chuck so I can give it a good cleaning and inspection?

[spalted]

http://www.carvewright.com/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_QC.pdf

I think this link will tell you how, but you may want to try and clean it in place. A few have posted here in the forums about flooding it with cleaner and lube and blowing it out while it's still on the machine, but I never tried it.

[AskBud]

http://www.carvewright.com/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_QC.pdf

I think this link will tell you how, but you may want to try and clean it in place. A few have posted here in the forums about flooding it with cleaner and lube and blowing it out while it's still on the machine, but I never tried it.
Here is a link, on QC removal, from Ron Justice, maker of the Rock Chuck.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?14915-QC-Removal&p=125122#post125122
AskBud

[Jrdarrah]

Precious, where did you get the 22.5 V-bit. What wood did you use in this carving

[AskBud]

Precious, where did you get the 22.5 V-bit. What wood did you use in this carving
My "Door" signs are usually out of my Poplar scrap pieces (prefinished).
The 22.5 degree bit came from Eagle America.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v132-0422/ea_-_lettering_bits
However, I think Rjustice may carry them as well.
AskBud

[Jrdarrah]

I ordered a 22.5 bit that should be here next week. I'm anxious to see if I can get fine detail with it. The 18 deg bit I was using still didn't give a fine V-point groove with the new QC I installed. I'm still seeing about a 1/16" wide flat groove which may be the best it can do based on the way the cutting edge is formed. My goal is to take a line drawing that has varying width line details and to reproduce them in wood. I may have to play with the centerline font so it can vary the width based on the original bw line. The original precious moments was a line art using a google search of images I found but using the advanced options of giving me only line art. It has the artistic character I'm looking for. I'm going to do some simple tests when I get a few minutes to set it up using a centerline font of some straight irregular width lines. I'll play with various bits specified in the cw software but using either the 22.5 or 18 degree bits in the chuck to see how the combiniations affect the result. I'll post back here when I'm done. I've always like to push the system outside the normal bounds to see what I can do.

[TIMCOSBY]

also the 18degree bit is prolly pretty sharp and is sinking into the wood when it touches down to find the surface so the machine thjinks the top of the board is lower than it really is.

[TIMCOSBY]

here you go. Where can I get instructions for removing the old chuck so I can give it a good cleaning and inspection?

evsrytime i go to open this one designer crashes. is it me or does evryone else have the same prob. running .170