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goz
12-03-2006, 11:15 AM
I just posted this in the techniques area by mistake. These are 3D models that I created then rendered with depth mapping at 32bit

Greybeard
12-03-2006, 11:26 AM
Hi Steve. Nice. Could you give a bit more detail about "depth mapping"?
Is this a tool in a particular piece of sowtware, and if so, which ?
John

Edit -just found your other posting where it gives the answer :oops:
Is the "depth mapping" tool a feature exclusive to your cgi software, or does it exist in other, perhaps down market, 3d programmes ?

goz
12-03-2006, 11:44 AM
There are quite a few 3d modeling softwares that will allow for rendering a depth image.

zbrush...Cinema 4D....Maya

The image is created from the actual 3d poly model geometry.
My day job is creating 3d digital product by either modeling or using a 3d white light scanner (breuckmann optotop). Wish I had one at home but the price tag is well over 100.000.00 GW's(aka dollars). I also use an rp (rapid prototyping) machine with a resolution of 25microns. Fun stuff but not really in the range for the garage woodworker.

I have used jpegs of the marine corps logo and the harley logo to create some really nice carvings for gun cabinets and bars. Just google images and pick the highest res then load the image to favorites.

Greybeard
12-03-2006, 12:39 PM
Thanks Steve.
What I'm looking at are what you might call workarounds for people on limited budgets( and probably limited graphics experience).
Given that the final import to Designer is a greyscale bitmap image, I'm trying to put together a method that can use simple node manipulation in drawing programs like coreldraw, along with the contouring/blend tools that also exist, to get from graphic logos that may use perspective or shading as representations of depth to a low bas relief version.

The more aware I am of how high end software works (from the users point of view, not the programmers) the more ideas might surface(sorry).
So I tend to pick up on any terms that I'm not familiar with.

So far, the method I'm working on is somewhat dependent on several years familiarity with CorelDraw, and it might be somewhat daunting at first sight to an inexperienced user. I think it depends a great deal on the clarity of the help files ( and that's another of my hobbyhorses :D )

Regards
John

hartwoods
12-03-2006, 02:37 PM
this is corian 1/4 x 12 x 12 . cut `1/8 inch deep. don

goz
12-03-2006, 02:45 PM
Great result.

I've gotta get some corian. Trying some photos right now in wood. Inverted
carving so that I can antique the stain with dark being deeper and light the reverse. Also want to try the same technique using the carving to cast in bronze and then antique the patina. Might work well for plaques or grave markers with the image of the occupant cast in bronze.

Big Al (NJ)
12-03-2006, 05:54 PM
I don't have the CarveWright yet, but it's on order. I've been playing around with the free software that I downloaded. Here's what I've done with some of the pictures. I converted them over to negative on a photo program I have, imported them into CarveWright. They look pretty good when on the board but won't know until I try it out.

Big Al (NJ)

Big Al (NJ)
12-03-2006, 05:58 PM
Looks good, just not sure what corian is...

Dusty82
01-08-2007, 10:05 PM
Looks good, just not sure what corian is...

Corian is a solid surface countertop material that is sold in sheets much like plywood, and is available at some home improvement centers - sometimes by special order only. It's rather expensive, so if I may, I'd suggest going to a countertop shop that works with it and see if they'll part with a few sink cutouts. They might charge you for them, but then again they might just give them to you to be rid of them. For your sake, please do go inside and talk with them before you start digging through their dumpster.

Countertop and cabinet shops are often good sources of cheap/free material that is otherwise rather pricy. For instance, I have a couple of 1 1/2 inch thick oak cutting boards that I cut from sink cutouts from a solid oak countertop for a bar. I also have a 2' x 3' piece of 1/2 inch thick white corian that I use as a drafting tabletop - I paid a shop $10 for it. I set it on the kitchen table and tape my paper to it. It's perfectly square, so my T-Square slides along the edge just fine, it's perfectly flat, and after 13 years, there's still not a scratch or nick in it.

Dusty

Northwoods Woodcrafter
02-22-2007, 07:23 AM
I've been thinking along the same lines. Some of the carvings would look great if they were filled with some sort of acrylic. If it had a tint to it, it would be darker where it was thicker and almost transparent in the thinner spots. Time to play!

-Pete