Autojig

[CarverJerry]

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the machine's autojig option and the manual jig?

CarverJerry

[atauer]

Jerry,

‘Manual Jig’ is going to be selected when you are using a sled or carrier board. This let’s the machine know that it will not be going beyond the dimensions designed for.

‘Auto Jig’ will add to measurements that were originally called but preserving the design with no alteration to it, meaning that it designates area around the design to compensate for the board tracking sensor and head rollers. It basically scales the project down a small bit and creates its own jig.

[atauer]

Oh yeah I almost forgot.

This information is explained in the Carvewright software manual that is available in the "Help Contents" of your software, as well as on our website.

[AskBud]

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the machine's autojig option and the manual jig?

CarverJerry
From the manual:
Auto Jigging Function
Occasionally a project will contain carvings or routs that can interfere with
the mechanical operation of the machine. Types of interference fall into
the following categories:
1. Wide vertical cuts across the top surface if the workpiece can
cause the compression rollers to fall during a project, affecting the
machine's ability to move the workpiece.
LHR Technologies, Inc. CarveWright™ System (Rev 1.33) 10/14/08 31
2. Cuts through the board along the top edge of the workpiece (as
viewed in the software) can interfere with the Board Tracking
Sensor and affect the machine's ability to track the position of the
workpiece.
3. Carvings on the rear face of the workpiece and near the bottom of
the workpiece (as viewed in the software) can also interfere with
the Board Tracking Sensor when the workpiece is flipped over.
4. Cuts with the Cut Tool along the right side of the workpiece can
potentially break the cutting bit if the workpiece leaves the Board
Tracking Sensor and the machine loses high-precision tracking of
the workpiece.
In the event that the CarveWright designer software recognizes that any of
these conditions are met within a project, the software will display a
warning when the project is uploaded to the memory card. The specific
conditions will be listed, and the user may choose to ignore the warning
(which may result in undesired machine operation), manually jig the
project, or allow the machine to automatically jig the project (Auto-Jig).
When Auto-Jig is selected, the machine will prompt for a workpiece that is
slightly wider or longer than the project's dimensions in order to prevent
interference with the machine's mechanics. When the project is complete
the machine can cut off the extra material if desired.

[CarverJerry]

Ok, I asked about the autojig and the manual jig options, now can you tell me what the ignore does. The reason I ask is I selected manual jig, but it came up with autojig on the machine, so I reuploaded it making POSITIVE that I selected manual jig, same thing and it wants to scale my project and saying my board was too small which it wasn't. So I reuploaded it again this time choosing ignore and it accepted and measured it just fine. Any idea what is goin on here?
My board is just slightly longer than 10" and the width is 9 5/8"
Here is the file for the picture frame, and I've carved this same one several times with out a glitch till now.
Oh yeah and I'm carving redwood but I used masking tape where it measured just to be on the safe side since it's a dark wood.

CJ

[Ton80]

AUTO-JIG is explained in the manual but what is NOT explained is what figure is added to your project board if you choose AUTO-JIG... anyone know the answer to this and is the amount always the same or can it vary based on the job?

CJ, as far as choosing IGNORE the machine will just carve your project without accounting for the potential problem. What this means is YOU need to make sure that your actual board is longer AND wider than the project board in designer. This is the method I use all the time. Most projects I carve are designs that cross over a set of cabinet doors so I am constantly seeing the AUTO-JIG dialog pop up. I ALWAYS load an actual board that is a minimum of 7" longer and at least 1/2" wider. Then I choose CENTER when asked how the machine should handle the larger board. This will effectively leave about 1/4" of material untouched for the rollers to stay in contact with on both the top and bottom.

It's been a few years since you didn't get the answer to your question so I guess you got this answer somewhere else on the forums.

[aokweld101]

the width of the board is ok the length needs to be seven inches longer to stay under the rollers you already have a 1/2 inch on either side of the pattern but I would still use the 7" inch rule when prompted to stay under rollers if you know that you have the 7" inches, then staying under the rollers is all right... if your board is not as long as your board size when you make your design and it still has the 7" inches but lets say its a 1/4 under the board size that you programed then I would use, don't stay under the rollers so that it don't down size your project I had to learn that the hard way....that when you say "WHY IT DO THAT!!!"