trade anyone?

[jhatcher]

I am looking for a nice lathe or a shopsmith to trade for a carvewright. I figured I can't sell the thing, but I have invested to much in it to throw it away. Besides, I want more tools anyway. Like I said, I am looking for a lathe, but other big tools are always an option.

Carvewright still under warranty, I know that it probably won't transfer. Scanning probe, license probably won't transfer and the full bit set (that I have never found a use for). I have the 16th bit and I made a collet for 1/8" cnc bits to fit, cause ain't no need in paying these guys $40 for a $5 bit.

Also I figured out how to get DXF's to work in carvewright software without the $199 extra fee. which is probably used by most of you guys anyway. May not be as easy as the importer, but free.

E-mail me if anyone is interested.

jhatcher@tinglersmill.com

Have a good day.

Jeremy

[hess]

Dang just sold 2 Shop Smiths with all the fixins 400 bucks

[SteveEJ]

Jeremy,
you have email..

[wizer]

Also I figured out how to get DXF's to work in carvewright software without the $199 extra fee. which is probably used by most of you guys anyway. May not be as easy as the importer, but free.


er. Very much interested in this. Please can you tell me how you are doing this?

[jhatcher]

for all of you guys that have e-mailed me about the dxf conversion, you should have mail soon.

I have had a few questions about my carvewright machine I am trading off. So here are some specs.

I got it January of this year, warranty is still good.

It has 46 Hours on it (most of it being making pretty firewood)

As one woodworker to another, I can say that the machine is working just fine, no problems at all, knock on wood.

It did have a stripped leadscrew nut, but that has been fixed with parts from LHR.

The scanner was used 1 time, for about 15 minutes. I put it back in the box. LHR has released the licenses on the software. Still no guarantees that it will register.

To be perfectly honest, I do not have the time to try and figure out this machine and the software and I feel that I want to concentrate more of the traditional woodworking. Besides, my father in law just bought one and if I ever would need something like a shell for a queene anne, then he can make it.

The reason that I will trade for a lathe is because if I were to sell it, I would get a lathe anyway with the money.

Thanks for the responses.

Jeremy

P.S. The reason I am NOT posting the dxf import work around here is because even though I am in TOTAL DISAGREEMENT with LHR charging for the importer, it is their right and their company. Out of respect, I will only e-mail the solution to the people that are sincerely interested.

[jhatcher]

The response was so great that I had to make a PDF tutorial in order to get it all in there.

I think I have sent the pdf to all of you guys that e-mailed me and asked for the dxf work around. If I missed anyone, please write back, cause I was FLOODED with e-mails.

Jeremy
jhatcher@tinglersmill.com

P.S. The carvewright has had a few offers, but I still have it. Probably not for long.

[wizer]

I got the PDF, thanks. Although I'm a little confused. What you are describing is importing images into Designer, just like we can already do. I thought the DXF importer was actually importing code into designer? Such that it works in vector, not rastor? I'm new to this so maybe I am missing the point?

[dbfletcher]

Ya.. after reviewing the pdf it looks like our best option is still to convert the dxf to .ai format and then use ai2mpc to convert to designer vector elements. I do appreciate you sendingthe info thou. just many of us want to keep vector elements in vector formats.

Doug Fletcher

[Metalhead781]

Are you guys basically talking about vectors to png then outlining the pattern? If that's the case, it makes for a better cut path but adds .008 when outlining. Good for general patterns but if there are arcs they'll be off a bit.

Good Luck
MH

[jhatcher]

Like I said, it is not the perfect way to do it, but here was my situation:

I had a DXF of a wooden gear clock, which was a vector and designer would not take it. So, according to the PDF, you still end up with a vector cut path. As such, I was able to take my DXF plans and cut them out with the machine using vector paths.

Now as I do not own the DXF Importer, I am not sure how they import the DXF, but the results are the same. (for my needs anyway). The vector is scaleable, it cuts as a vector path and not a raster. By the end of the PDF there is no raster.

Oh, and the clock works great, the 8 thousandths of an inch (not sure) did not seem to matter, all the gears lined up and fit fine.

[SteveEJ]

Jeremy,
Can you upload the DXF of the clock gears? I'd like to see what you are talking about. If not you have my email.

[jhatcher]

Steve

I can't upload the clock dxf, cause I had to pay for the files.

[SteveEJ]

OK.. Thanks, I just wanted to test it in VCarve Pro. I'm sure it will handle it. Wouldn't want to get anyone in trouble or break any laws!

[Metalhead781]

Like I said, it is not the perfect way to do it, but here was my situation:

I had a DXF of a wooden gear clock, which was a vector and designer would not take it. So, according to the PDF, you still end up with a vector cut path. As such, I was able to take my DXF plans and cut them out with the machine using vector paths.

Now as I do not own the DXF Importer, I am not sure how they import the DXF, but the results are the same. (for my needs anyway). The vector is scaleable, it cuts as a vector path and not a raster. By the end of the PDF there is no raster.

Oh, and the clock works great, the 8 thousandths of an inch (not sure) did not seem to matter, all the gears lined up and fit fine.

I'm sure someone will use it but it's been around and discussed before. I've done it. If your doing something like clock gears that have to be accurate but that much of a difference is nominal because of the gear rotation. It's the tooth per the speed within reason. Gears actually help reduce the amount your off because of pitch and rotation. I don't doubt it works great. I tried it and had to scale it x and y for an inlay and it left gaps at a radius even when it was scaled down because of the extra on the outline. Changed the radius slightly, just enough to be noticeable. It's a great technique and thank you for sharing it with us. Also good luck getting a trade for the carvewright. I've got another machine on it's way, I don't know what i'm doing with my CW i might rebuild it with steppers and a new control, but i don't know yet.

MH

[Digitalwoodshop]

I've got another machine on it's way, I don't know what i'm doing with my CW i might rebuild it with steppers and a new control, but i don't know yet.

MH

That is an interesting concept.... convert it to a Stepper machine....

Good Luck with that...

AL

[Metalhead781]

That is an interesting concept.... convert it to a Stepper machine....

Good Luck with that...

AL

Thanks Al, i appreciate your support on that. I figure i can get a good 14" x 96" x 2" system out of it. Shouldn't cost more then $300 or so. I'll keep you guys posted if you want to see but it's gonna be a while. I've got specs drawn up. Basically sleds with gear racks machined on the bottom out of a derlin. It'll go into the machine over a set of driven gears off one stepper and shaft. I'll probably beef up the y axis rail and use heavier bearings. Same on the Z truck. Switch to a nice ball screw y and z setup re using the CW z truck with my Rock.

Again, thanks Al
MH

[Digitalwoodshop]

With the ball screw Y idea the extra weight of the 2 inch Z ball screw would not be a issue.

Good Idea...

AL

[Metalhead781]

Yeah, for what i want, belts aren't a good idea. I figure if i can get the right amount of steps per inch and everything setup correctly i'll get about .0001 resolution at 100 or so ipm cut speed and around 150 ipm rapid. V carving and raster carving could probably run closer to 120ipm but with larger bits and considerably larger stepover about 80ipm. Add to that roughing passes help a lot. To anyone who reads this. Doing something like this creates a machine that takes user error and magnifies it ten fold at high feed rates and high rpms. If you accidentally tell a machine with the setup i describe to plunge your bit and chuck 3" into the material it will do it without a second thought. Something like that breaks expensive parts. The CW takes care of all that stuff for you. Anything i build will not.

MH

[Fletcher]

Cool idea to convert the CW, I should have thought of that... I bought mine last fall, got hooked but wanted more.

So I built this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMy-rsPafdo

I am just in the "firing up" stage right now but so far, so good. Belt driven(3:1 gear reduction gives resolution of about .0003"), 4' x 8' x 8" cut area, safe cuts(.250) in MDF at 120imp, 400ipm rapid, and so far I have been getting repeatability measurements of less than .001".

I'm keeping the CW though because it has its advantages too - quick 3D carves, the designer software, self setup, compact, etc...

Plus, why not have double the fun!

[Metalhead781]

Cool idea to convert the CW, I should have thought of that... I bought mine last fall, got hooked but wanted more.

So I built this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMy-rsPafdo

I am just in the "firing up" stage right now but so far, so good. Belt driven(3:1 gear reduction gives resolution of about .0003"), 4' x 8' x 8" cut area, safe cuts(.250) in MDF at 120imp, 400ipm rapid, and so far I have been getting repeatability measurements of less than .001".

I'm keeping the CW though because it has its advantages too - quick 3D carves, the designer software, self setup, compact, etc...

Plus, why not have double the fun!

I just can't play around and tinker with things on a regular basis. Right now i need a machine up and running. I just got my new software package today and my machine, to my surprise, shipped yesterday. It was supposed to be 4 weeks but it was only one even with the holiday. The sales woman said they were adding another line for the machine. The had added one line two weeks prior but had to wait for the third line's welding machines to be finished. On top of that each machine they assemble, test, zero, disassemble then crate before shippment.

[Metalhead781]

Cool idea to convert the CW, I should have thought of that... I bought mine last fall, got hooked but wanted more.

So I built this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMy-rsPafdo

I am just in the "firing up" stage right now but so far, so good. Belt driven(3:1 gear reduction gives resolution of about .0003"), 4' x 8' x 8" cut area, safe cuts(.250) in MDF at 120imp, 400ipm rapid, and so far I have been getting repeatability measurements of less than .001".

I'm keeping the CW though because it has its advantages too - quick 3D carves, the designer software, self setup, compact, etc...

Plus, why not have double the fun!

Can i come over and play?:-D Now that, i don't have room for. Next machine would be a 4x4 at least, but it wouldn't fit in my shop.
Search youtube for Torchmate 2x2. There are a few machines on there but not too many with the router attachment. Nice sturdy machine. Granted it's crated but the ship weight is 221lbs. for a 24x24x6.5 that's allotta sturdy.

[Fletcher]

Haha, I didn't have the room either but I pretty much gutted my garage and made room. Come play whenever you want!

Now that it is almost done, I don't know what is more fun, building it, or using it!

Did you get a torchmate MH?

[Metalhead781]

Yeah, that's the one i ordered. Torchmate 2x2 with the z axis and bosch colt. No torch holders. There a gentleman i know that has a 4x4 torchmate he built from one of their bolt together kits. His is plasma only, doesn't wanna play with wood. He's been after me to make a coffee table to fit some steel into. Doesn't wanna pay though and i'm not interested in partners.

MH

P.S. you don't want shakey workin on your cnc. U know how many bits i dropped between the rollers in my cw. Lol.

[Fletcher]

2x2 looks like a nice sturdy setup MH. You should have some fun with that!