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firedawgbw
05-28-2010, 10:56 AM
I was getting a check cut motor error message on the machine. After talking to support, I ordered a new cut motor and sensor. After replacing them both, I am getting the same message and the bit is still not spinning or making any noises. Please help anyone.

liquidguitars
05-28-2010, 11:39 AM
what version otf software are you running?

LG

firedawgbw
05-28-2010, 12:15 PM
version 1.164

liquidguitars
05-28-2010, 12:26 PM
one thing I would do is to remove the flex shaft from the motor and clean the
shaft and core with paint thinner to remover the sludge. I not sure if this is recommended buy Carvewight so due this at own own risk..

I be doing the same thing this week you will be shocked just how dirty the shaft gets, once clean and dry oil the core and see if that helps.

LG

Cabinetdesigner
05-28-2010, 12:27 PM
had the same thing happen one time it turned out to be the wiring to the cover switch opposite the keyboard side,

liquidguitars
05-28-2010, 12:32 PM
had the same thing happen one time it turned out to be the wiring to the cover switch opposite the keyboard side,

Good idea! I look at that on mine as the wires conetors are getting a little loose. I think i will just re wire them as my unit is a little old.

LG

firedawgbw
05-28-2010, 12:38 PM
I've replaced the cover switch opposite the keyboard already. I'm clueless. I can't get in touch with Carvewright due to the power outage. Is there anywhere to get these machines repaired?

Cabinetdesigner
05-28-2010, 12:44 PM
I replaced my switch also it didnt fix it it was the wiring between the switch and the cut motor. I figured it out by unpluging the wires up by the cut motor and jumpered it .

Digitalwoodshop
05-28-2010, 01:11 PM
It could be the X Termination Board.... Under the machine.... The Q1 Transistor is the on off switch for the Cut Motor. If the C1 Cap has broken off like I had 2 snap last summer from QC Vibration about 500 hours.... That could be the problem....

AL

liquidguitars
05-28-2010, 01:57 PM
When the motor powers up after a bit change it sounds intermediate it's been like that for a long time.

firedawgbw
05-28-2010, 03:51 PM
I checked the circuit board underneath and everything looks fine.

liquidguitars
05-28-2010, 05:17 PM
I would try the cleaning first and get back to us, also the bits need to be very sharp..

LG

Digitalwoodshop
05-29-2010, 10:10 AM
Still sounds like the C1 problem... You must tug slightly on the C1 to see the broken wire....

AL

firedawgbw
05-29-2010, 10:37 AM
I tugged on the C1 and it was secure. Anyone in the state of Georgia that can help out? No luck with support.

firedawgbw
05-31-2010, 01:33 PM
Ok, I checked the brushes on the old motor out of curiosity. They looked fine. The new cut sensor checked out fine on the sensor check menu when I turned the chuck by hand. I looked at all the boards underneath the machine. Everything looked fine. The new motor is in and the chuck still won't turn when trying to send a job thru. I don't know what else to do besides getting the shotgun out.

liquidguitars
06-01-2010, 10:06 AM
how much flexshaft core stick out from the end? if you have a loose shaft end tube the shaft will not turn the chuck and will slip out of the truck during operation.

Digitalwoodshop
06-01-2010, 10:29 AM
Do you hear the motor turning or not? I am thinking you are saying the motor never starts.

It COULD be wired WRONG.... Black Wire from the X Termination Circuit board to Black on the Cut Motor. White wire from the X Termination board to one of the right cover switch. The extra cover switch wire to the white wire on the cut motor. It does not matter which wire you use to and from the right side switch, it just loops through.


So it is going to come down to:

Not wired properly
Bad X Termination Board
Bad Right Cover Switch
Bad computer, not sending the start signal.
Loose right cover switch.
One of the crimp connectors is crimped on plastic not copper.. Did the machine ever work?


AL

firedawgbw
06-01-2010, 10:29 AM
I'll check the flex shaft but shouldn't the motor still make some type of noise or try to turn?

firedawgbw
06-01-2010, 10:32 AM
I tried the wires both ways from the switch and the motor still does not turn.

firedawgbw
06-10-2010, 03:52 PM
If the FFC ribbon cable is damaged at all, will that keep the cut motor from turning?

Dave Boland
07-01-2010, 05:18 PM
Firedawg, did you ever get this problem solved? I am going through the same thing right now, put in new brushes, new x-terminator plate, checked all wiring, not getting any cover switch demands. CM still not responding. I'm like you, need some help,
but afraid to order new cut motor if that's not the prob. I was carving along just fine when the CM did a few pauses, chugs, and then stopped spinning. I read a post from Al about the X-terminator so checked it first, sure as heck there it was, that transistor had vibrated loose (one end no longer attached). Got new one, didn't help still no CM turning. Took motor off cleaned it, put in new brushes, no help.
Spindle turns freely and i get a reading in options. Whats next?

Digitalwoodshop
07-01-2010, 06:45 PM
Might need a new motor......

AL

Dave Boland
07-02-2010, 04:31 PM
Pocono Wizard. Thanks for answering Al. My machine has a little over 400 hrs. The motor was dirty and the brushes were worn pretty good. Cleaned it up and visually couldn't see anything. Motor looked brand new, magnet was in great shape, no wires loose or ragged. When this initially happened my first thought was Oh No motor has burned up. I immediately placed my hand on motor and it was only normal warm. Not Hot. Is there any way i can assure that the motor is bad before placing order for one?
Fixed income makes you think about $$ 1st. Thats why i use a nickel instead of a quarter on the brush caps. ;)

Digitalwoodshop
07-02-2010, 07:45 PM
If you could come up with some automotive type crimp on connectors.... You could unplug the motor and install a lamp cord to where the power comes going to the X Termination board. That would light the bulb if the X Termination Board is good and the switches....

I believe but not 100 % that the cut motor is powered by 115 Volts AC but before you try that I would like a conformation from LHR....

Any chance you wired it wrong after changing the brushes?

Black from X Term to Black of Motor.

White from X Term to Black of Switch. White from Switch to White of the Motor. Since it is just a switch it can go either way... The important one is black to black....

AL

Good Luck,

AL

firedawgbw
07-07-2010, 02:05 PM
I'm still trying to fix my machine. Guess I'll start from scratch too. Thinking about unloading it all together.

Digitalwoodshop
07-07-2010, 02:17 PM
Look for simple stuff.... Wires unplugged by the Z Motor Fins bumping into the wires...

Dust in the right side switrch.... Loose screws in the right side switch....

Look at the X Termination board for a broken lead on the C1 Cap or Q1. Loose plug...

Get stumped you can always call me.... Phone number on the bottom of my web page.

Over 250 Cut Motor Hours.... could be short brushes.... The Teather keeps the metal of the brushes from hitting the copper comunitator...
AL