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rlrhett
11-04-2006, 01:42 PM
I have been on the fence about the carvewright for almost a year. There are two things I want to use the device for, one requires .dwx or g-code import and the other is to use it for inlaying MOP and abalone (ablam) into hardwood.

I understand that they will release CAD/CAM compatibility later (probably as a more expensive "upgrade"). But the inlay should be doable now. I have seen at least four previous inquiries into inlay, but so far no one seems to have reported being able to use the machine for this purpose.

Has anyone successfully used the Carvewright to rout out a pocket for inlay and cut out inlay pieces from abalone or MOP? Has anyone tried and not been able to get it to work? Will the Carvewright work for shell inlaid pieces (jewelry boxes, pendants, etc.)?

Thanks,

BobHill
11-09-2006, 05:06 PM
I've not done any inlaying, but I sure don't see why it wouldn't work great with the CarveWright as long as the piece is within the size limits of the machine.

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida

rlrhett
11-15-2006, 12:34 PM
The problem I would anticipate is that the shell material will almost always be much smaller than 2.5 x 7. It is also quite thin and brittle. It is also quite expensive, and I would think you would want to use a smaller bit or a small end mill bit to cut it to minimize waste.

So, I suppose my questions would be:

1) Is the bit speed and cut speed apropriate, can it be controlled and has anyone had problems with shell cracking or shattering?

2) Shell is hundreds of an inch thick and you usually are cutting pieces that measure in the millimeters. Has anyone successfully mounted the shell on a substrate so that it can be cut?

3) Is the software smart enough to use very small diamerter end-mills and still correctly compensate for inside rout/outside cut?

I gather by the lack of responses to my original post that no one out there, not even the inventors, have been successfully able to use the machine to do inlay work. It is a shame, because I can think of no better use of a CNC fine carving tool. Imagine how beautiful you could make inlays if your only limitations were your ability to design them on Corel Draw, Illustrator or some other similar vector draw program!

I guess it is time to try to build something myself or keep doing it the old fashioned way :P

Greybeard
11-15-2006, 04:06 PM
I think I'd be inclined to cut the shell to the pattern first (I use a jeweller's saw).
The new scanner attachment may be the route to create the sunk region you need to drop it into.

I've been looking at the problems of getting an accurate representation of a vector original( a fanstick) into the program, but so far with no solution.
It is possible that a route using the outline tool, which by creating a path, gives an editable shape, may be the current answer.

However, I think a lot of the present users would be only too happy for a future version to be able to import a vector program direct. It wouldn't need all the bells and whistles that come with drawing programs as each user would want to stick with their own familiar software.

John

Greybeard
11-16-2006, 11:55 AM
I think I have a method for producing inlays, but I have worked it out using CorelDraw and Photopaint which are my standards.
I hope the principle will work in any other pair of drawing/photoeditings pairings.
I've assumed that the inlay material is 1mm/0.04inches thick and is stuck down on a temporary support to give a board 0.25 inches thick, and the inlaid board is 0.25inches thick.

Producing the patterns -
1. Lay out the design using a "hairline" width pencil in Draw and save as screen box top.cdr - screen shot A. Take note of the overall size, mine is 4 x 2inches.
2. Fill the part to be inlaid with black, and export as a jpg at 256 dpi, greyscale - card box top.jpg
3. In Designer, import the card box top.jpg, invert the image, and save to favorites in the library.

4. Select just the inlays from the original drawing and regroup them to minimise the wastage of the inlay material, allowing 1/8inch between parts.
5. Change the pencil width to 1/8inch and fill black. I've used blue and red in part to show the path that the 1/16inch cutter will take - screen shot B. Export as before, - card box inlay.jpg
6. In Designer, import the card box inlay.jpg, but do not invert the image, and save to favorites.

Producing the box top
Select card box top from favorites and centre on 6 x 4inch board. The pattern will then have to be resized using the toolbar settings to make it the same as the original design, as designer makes it fit the board. Centre the pattern, set the feather to none, and set the depth to 0.05inches.
This produces the box top recesses for the inlay. I've used the rectangle as part of the design for simplicity, but changing that is straightforward enough.
Cutting the inlay
.New project board, and select the card box inlay from the library. Resize the image as before. Set the depth to 0.05inches, the feather to none, and select the outline tool. Deselect the image , then select only the rectangle, and delete it. Select the rectangular region and delete that also. Select all the inlay shapes, then click on "select bit". Choose the 1/16in straight. Reset the depth to 0.05inches.
This will cut out the inlay pieces from the top layer of the board.

John

rlrhett
11-16-2006, 12:21 PM
Fantastic! Just the kind of thing I was thinking of too (and jewelry boxes, etc.)

I know this is not the kind of experiment that a casual user would attempt. For one thing you need the material and for another a 1/16 bit. Perhaps the Carvewright people would be willing to implement the technique and show us the results? I'm sure it would be good for promotional material. If I had the machine, I would do it. Then again, that's the whole point. I'm trying to decide whether to invest in it. :wink:

Thanks!

Greybeard
11-16-2006, 02:31 PM
I've just realised my choice of design does show up another problem, though.
Sharp corners are a bit of a no-no, so you would best avoid them in designing for this method. In fact you'd also have to avoid anything narrower than 1/16inch, the smallest bit in the offered bit sizes.
It has`been mooted that you might try programming for one bit size and put in a smaller, non standard one, and I'm sure such experiments might get there, but it's much easier to design to the machine than the other way round.

John

BobHill
11-16-2006, 02:59 PM
John,

Actually the smallest straight bit to date is 1/8th inch. The only 1/16th inch bit is the tip of the carving bit. So one has to consider that as well.

Bob

Greybeard
11-16-2006, 03:21 PM
Hi Bob.
Is the smallest bit available the 1/8 straight ?
I assumed what was in the "select bit" menu was available !
Comes from not actually having a m/c :wink:

Oh well, the idea stands I think, just the designs will have to be even "slabbier", if there is such a word.

John

Dan-Woodman
11-16-2006, 04:05 PM
in the software you can select 1/16" bit , but I don't think cw has one .
go to www.mlcswoodworking.com they have single flute 1/16" carbide cutting bits with 1/4 " cut lenth for seven dollars. page 27 catalog c -73
Sears sells a 1/16" bit but it's not carbide.

Greybeard
11-16-2006, 04:34 PM
Thanks Dan.
I suspect my not having a mc on this side of the pond slipped by you, but it does get the idea back in the frame(if you ignore the sharp corners that wont fit :wink:
As I come to the forum with some experience of doing inlays by hand, I did it as an exercise in exploring the software more than anything else. Keeps the old grey cells going.

John