Dovetail Key Hybrid

[CSPURGEON]

So I was just watching a video podcast by Woodcraft I think it was and they showed how to make dovetail keys. I began to think about larger signs made within the carvewright and how they are "pieced" together. Has anyone used this dovetail key concept almost to use the disadvantage of the CW to the advantage of making a sign have that architecture style look with multiple keys binding the two or more pieces together. I'm sure on an extreme 3-D carving it may not work I was just thinking a letter style sign. Just a thought from a beginner woodworker.

Just in case I didn't use the right terminology I put in a picture of what the video was creating.

Thanks,
Chris

[wizer]

Well I'm pretty certain the CW can't do what you posted. i.e Corner Dovetails. I'm sure, with a sled, it would mill the slots for dovetail 'keys' and even mill the keys on another board. I'd love to see it done, seems like a good idea to me.

[lawrence]

interesting idea, but much like some other concepts, this is a function which more easily done on other woodworking tools-- I do sliding key miters from time to time (though I'm more partial to splines) and the router table makes very quick work of things. The keys are very easily made with a table saw and clean up with a sharp plane.

If you are talking about putting 2 pieces of wood flat side by side and then using a "dovetail" to hold the two flat surfaces together, this is refered to as a "bowtie inlay" or "butterfly inlay" and I can certainly see the CW as being a VERY useful tool for making the rout. This isn't what you are showing in the pic though...

The concept is an interesting one to wrap ones head around though...

Lawrence

[lawrence]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/6.jpg

[liquidguitars]

I saw a round corner dovetail made on a CNC, looks like the CW could make that..

LG

[DocWheeler]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/6.jpg

Lawrence,

Just wanted to comment on the photo you posted. Beautiful wood and good workmanship, I love the bowties.

[lawrence]

Lawrence,

Just wanted to comment on the photo you posted. Beautiful wood and good workmanship, I love the bowties.

Thanks, but unfortunately I cannot take credit-- I pulled it off of google as an example( I should have said so above...)
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.weersingfurniturestudio.com/HandmadeFurnitureDetail/FurnitureDetailImages/6.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.weersingfurniturestudio.com/HandmadeFurnitureDetail/FurnitureDetailPages/Image6.html&usg=__PTmbKsYm0NZucdlhYGfc04gcplI=&h=400&w=562&sz=30&hl=en&start=11&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=_r_X5BWfcO1NKM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=133&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbutterfly%2Binlay%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den% 26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us%26rlz%3D1I7ADSA_en%26tbs%3Disch:1

Lawrence

[CSPURGEON]

I also got my photo from google just to show what I was talking about, being new to woodworking I tend to make hybrid terms and get those that know woodworking confused.

I knew the CW wouldn't make these I just thought one vertical between two sections of a sign would look neat in the right application.

[Metalhead781]

I've used my CW to cut and rout the keys for the bowtie inlay. It works well but you have to get it just right. Vector paths are the only way to go to get the route for the key milled properly. It's a hellish pain at times when you have to change the size. Keep in mind the software only goes to .001 of an inch which doesn't account for anything smaller then 1/8". When u get to a bowtie that's too small for the 3/8" straight bit. Insetting the 1/8" bit to .063 instead of .0625 makes a huge difference. When you're doing a job with Brazilian Cherry and Ebony, nobody wants to see filler.

MH

[Metalhead781]

P.S.

The center of the bowtie cut with the cw will have a minute radius and you also have to compensate for that when routing out for it.

[wizer]

This would be a good Tips and Tricks edition...

[Metalhead781]

Ok so i'm not going to say that it would be better to use a .25" spiral bit and tell the machine it's using the .25" ball nose and place an inset of .125 to make the vector path follow the inside of the line perfectly. Also not going to tell you to simply place that vector half off the edge of the board and the same on another board you want to join. Then don't you dare copy that vector to a cutout on 1/4 or 1/2" material for the key using a standard cutout feature. Whatever you do, don't draw a radius of .125" at all corners of the butterfly.

I also did not take the time to make an mpc for a sample of what you should not do and did not go through the process of uploading it on dialup.

Thanks
MH

[dbfletcher]

Ok so i'm not going to say that it would be better to use a .25" spiral bit and tell the machine it's using the .25" ball nose and place an inset of .125 to make the vector path follow the inside of the line perfectly. Also not going to tell you to simply place that vector half off the edge of the board and the same on another board you want to join. Then don't you dare copy that vector to a cutout on 1/4 or 1/2" material for the key using a standard cutout feature. Whatever you do, don't draw a radius of .125" at all corners of the butterfly.

I also did not take the time to make an mpc for a sample of what you should not do and did not go through the process of uploading it on dialup.

Thanks
MH

Man... it sucks to have a defiant personality. After all your carefully worded comments about what not to do.... I really want to try this. And I have no idea why!

Doug Fletcher

[Metalhead781]

Man... it sucks to have a defiant personality. After all your carefully worded comments about what not to do.... I really want to try this. And I have no idea why!

Doug Fletcher

Well Doug,
I did my best to tell you what not to do that other cnc routers do all day everyday with less of a radius. Alas my efforts seam fruitless.

MH:cool:

[cestout]

If you made a bow tie pattern, you could place the pattern, outline it on the female piece, delete the pattern, and cut the path leaving the cut inside the line. Then piece the pattern on a board for the male piece, the actual bow tie, outline it, delete the pattern and cut that out flipping the cut. This is like the inlaid horses shared with us a while back.
Clint

[lawrence]

I know the challenge has been laid down... but this is definately one of those times I'd probably rely on the tried and true methods of inlay (cut the bowtie inlay, ds tape it to the piece, use a razorknife to trace the piece, remove the ds taped overlay, then use a router (I like the itty bitty dremmel router, but a laminate will work) and rout out most of the piece... then clean up the corners with a sharp chisel. I did these cutting boards this way

(and yes, this one is mine ;) )
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/wwing265Small.jpg

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/wwing170640x480.jpg

Lawrence

[CSPURGEON]

Well done MSgt! Sorry I saw you were alson in the AF and thought I would properly address you. LOL

I was thinking of trying a "female" cutting and then a "male" engraving and then going to place them together but haven't got the courage yet. I think I'm with you and going to go the old way... well that is when I learn how to do it correctly.

[dcalvin4]

i kept racking my brain trying to figure out how the heck to cut a perfect oval base 5by9 on the band saw trying to save hours on the cw machine, so the next day i figured i cut just 1 on the cw an use it as a pattern for the bandsaw so i designed it and cut the first one on cw...loaded wood and started goofing around in my basement only to have the machine suddenly stop,,i couldnt figure what happened , then i looked at the project and low and behold it was comepletly done as in all cut out......5 minutes total time.............i think ill sell the bandsaw
ps 250 hours on machine no major problems nock on wood
there is a rockchuck involved, top dust collector , and i added 4 small 1/2 in thick spongy rubber pads to go under the 4 corners (between machine and bench} to take up noise and small vibrations ., now if i can only get rid of the whistling sound coming from the motor area,,,any ideas?
denny

[spalted]

........................ now if i can only get rid of the whistling sound coming from the motor area,,,any ideas?
denny


Hand chisels and carving gouges are all I can can come up with to eliminate that annoying whine.:mrgreen:

[AskBud]

Hand chisels and carving gouges are all I can can come up with to eliminate that annoying whine.:mrgreen:
Once you have a Top-mounted Vacuum Head you and consider this.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showpost.php?p=124193&postcount=13
AskBud

[Icutone2]

Maby something like this?
Lee