Board sensor screws ??

[Ropdoc]

Hello folks,

Ok I made a fuge mistake and I am kicking myself bigtime. I am in a horrible mood anyway and I just wanted to work in the garage. I had remove the Board sensor to clean and I am putting it back to gether and I lost the 2 screws that hold the sensor in. I am going nuts. Can anyone tell me the size of the screws so I can try and buy 2 new ones? I just can't believe I lost them.

Dave

[PCW]

Parts breakdown shows it as a M3 X 8mm long.

[Ike]

Hello folks,

Ok I made a fuge mistake and I am kicking myself bigtime. I am in a horrible mood anyway and I just wanted to work in the garage. I had remove the Board sensor to clean and I am putting it back to gether and I lost the 2 screws that hold the sensor in. I am going nuts. Can anyone tell me the size of the screws so I can try and buy 2 new ones? I just can't believe I lost them.

Dave

Sorry to hear the bad day I understand! I wish I was closer but I am about 10 hours away and with traffic ?

I wish I knew more about switches, I would find a better answer for the board sensor! That is my biggest and single problem!

Ike

[Ike]

[QUOTE=AskBud;128872]After assuring that we keep dust out of the lens cap, it boils down to reading the surface of the board!

We must remember/recognize that the Sensor is looking for a reflection off the board.
Glossy or dark boards can play hob with the reflection. A line of masking tape across the path of the truck travel (both ways) does wonders.

Here is a link to one of my posts on Measurement and Tape.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showpost.php?p=115777&postcount=1
AskBud[/QUOTE

You know that is easier to type! Thank you though, I know you are trying to help! However, I do keep it clean and I use the same material every time. Bud I have own a machine since Dec. 06 and have bought 4 machines and had to sell 2 and have one part machine and one working one with over 400 hours.

That said, I still think a better sensor is needed and my response was to show my support to the pain of the board sensor has given me. and if I was closer I would have given Ropdoc the extra screws I have!

The plastic cover on the sensor gets scratched and is worthless. I have since removed that plastic cover and went from a reading of 35 to 135! ( Yes I know this is not recommended and could cause the sensor to fail. That is why I used an old one and will keep using it until it stops! Plus sealing the edges helps in dust behind the window)

So I still stand on my opinion the sensors need to be improved!

Ike

[www.go3d.us]

Sorry, I Can't help with the screws. But for the sensor you can use fix all adhesive/gel. I sealed my sensor casing with fix-all adhesive/gel and never has sensor reading error again. Not even a tiny bit of dust can get in.

HT

[Digitalwoodshop]

Masking Tape....:)

[Ike]

Sorry, I Can't help with the screws. But for the sensor you can use fix all adhesive/gel. I sealed my sensor casing with fix-all adhesive/gel and never has sensor reading error again. Not even a tiny bit of dust can get in.

HT

HT and Al I appreciate it, but that is my point!!! Why do we need to seal it? I know we all have gone through this! We spend a half hour just trying to start a project messing with the board sensor to get it to read enough to start!

This isn't a new issue if dust gets into the sensor then a new and improved sensor is need or the original sealed at the sensor manufacture. Plus sealing it doesn't help the lens from getting scratched on the outside!

Al, I know you are a big fan of masking tape, but when I am in a hurry to get signs done at a fair I don't have time to put a line of tape on the edge!

I will call this my wish list item!

Ike

[Ike]

What wonders me, is what are you using that scratches the lens cover?
I use a soft rag or soft tooth brush, are you using a metal or plastic brush?
AskBud

No Bud I have not used a metal or plastic brush! Come on give me some credit! Lol nope nothing but a cloth I tried a soft tooth brush, but mostly a cloth or compressed air.

So I guess the flat file is out? :) Ok now please don't take this wrong! But why is it so wrong for me thinking the sensor needs improved and it should not be our responsibility to seal the edges? There must be a better sensor out there?

Funny how agreeing with one member on the frustration of removing the sensor to lose the screws on a sensor that should not need to removed, can lead to such a long topic! I really was sharing the frustration and if I lived closer I would give him my spare screws!

Ike

[Ropdoc]

Thank you guys for the help. Now to get down to the hardware store and buy the screws so I can start making saw dust.

[Ike]

Ike,
No harm, no foul!
I don't think the cover should get scratched on its own. Perhaps there is another, underlying, problem. Maybe a cleaning solvent or oil is getting on the lens area as the unit does its work. This may happen if some part is over lubricated (as an example). Do you, by chance, carve Corian?

I'm just trying to place a finger on the actual source of the scratches.
It may help LHR as well as others.
AskBud

No corian, I think it could get scratched it is only plastic and I mostly use old growth redwood and the saw dust is very fine. I am using the 10 min dust collector system cut a hole and use a vac attachment! Before nothing and the dust did build up on the board and as the board moved I am sure the dust moved against the sensor.

Not to mention using compressed air and using the vac to clean. So getting scratch on it's own ....no! But with all the dust anything is possible!

Ike

[wgrigsby]

The first time I removed the board sensor it took evevry bit of 1 1/2 hours. I hate the philip head screws used on the machine. When ever I remove one I replace it with a Allen head screw which I get from a local nuts and bolt suplyer (Bolts & nuts of Hancock County Inc.)

www.bolts-nutsofhancock.com


Their web adress is above.

The screws are listed on page 9 part # 43 Machine Screw - Pan Head, M3 x 08mm Long. The parts list can be downloaded from carve wight.

Hope this helps, lossing the screws may have been the best thing that could have happen to you. Also be sure if you replace with allen heads that you have or buy a wrench for them.

[Ike]

The first time I removed the board sensor it took evevry bit of 1 1/2 hours. I hate the philip head screws used on the machine. When ever I remove one I replace it with a Allen head screw which I get from a local nuts and bolt suplyer (Bolts & nuts of Hancock County Inc.)

www.bolts-nutsofhancock.com


Their web adress is above.

The screws are listed on page 9 part # 43 Machine Screw - Pan Head, M3 x 08mm Long. The parts list can be downloaded from carve wight.

Hope this helps, lossing the screws may have been the best thing that could have happen to you. Also be sure if you replace with allen heads that you have or buy a wrench for them.

Just another post to confirm the need for a new sensor! If we didn't need to take out the sensor we would never lose the screws! I am sure that hour and a half was looking for the screws! It takes 5 minutes to get out providing you don't loose the screws! I just want to make it clear, it is my wish list request!

Ike

[www.go3d.us]

So I guess the flat file is out? :) Ok now please don't take this wrong! But why is it so wrong for me thinking the sensor needs improved and it should not be our responsibility to seal the edges? There must be a better sensor out there?

Ike

Nope, it's not so wrong at all...in fact it a great way of thinking.

[Ike]

Nope, it's not so wrong at all...in fact it a great way of thinking.

Thanks HT !!!

Ike

[Ike]

Thank you guys for the help. Now to get down to the hardware store and buy the screws so I can start making saw dust.

You know one thing I forgot to mention if you need to remove the board sensor. Lay a towel or a sheet of white paper on the bottom. This will catch any dropped screws!

Ike

PS, what happen to Bud's post?

[Ropdoc]

Ok so now the Sensor is bad. I did a light level check and it reads at 18-25. I emailed Support Sunday looking for a price on a new sensor and SCREWS. Still no reply. I am in a REALLY BAD place here and NEED NEED NEED something in my life to work or get repaired. Who else can I contact about a new sensor and screws ?

[dbfletcher]

Ok so now the Sensor is bad. I did a light level check and it reads at 18-25. I emailed Support Sunday looking for a price on a new sensor and SCREWS. Still no reply. I am in a REALLY BAD place here and NEED NEED NEED something in my life to work or get repaired. Who else can I contact about a new sensor and screws ?

I've seen a lot of people mention on this forum that emails to LHR don't seem to be responded to in a timely fashion. You best bet is probably to call them via phone directly.

Doug Fletcher

[PCW]

Ok so now the Sensor is bad. I did a light level check and it reads at 18-25. I emailed Support Sunday looking for a price on a new sensor and SCREWS. Still no reply. I am in a REALLY BAD place here and NEED NEED NEED something in my life to work or get repaired. Who else can I contact about a new sensor and screws ?

Sears

Part 138 and 43 on the parts diagram (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=133217540&productCategoryId=0716000&brandId=0247&brandDescription=CRAFTSMAN&modelName=COMPUCARVE&diagramPageId=00008&componentDescription=TRUCK%20ASY&documentId=50032312&blt=06).


For the complete parts list that Sears sells for the CW. (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=133.217540)

[Ropdoc]

Hum, so now when I am in my worst of horrible moods I need to talk to a sales rep .......... on the phone.

Thank you for the advice. I will ...... do that.

Just think happy thoughts, Just think happy thoughts. ring ring

[Ropdoc]

Thank you for this info. I like this a lot better than talking on the phone. But I do apreciate all of your advice.

Dave


Sears

Part 138 and 43 on the parts diagram (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=133217540&productCategoryId=0716000&brandId=0247&brandDescription=CRAFTSMAN&modelName=COMPUCARVE&diagramPageId=00008&componentDescription=TRUCK%20ASY&documentId=50032312&blt=06).


For the complete parts list that Sears sells for the CW. (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=133.217540)

[Ropdoc]

Well, I got a response from Carvewright Support. See below. I asked nothing in my email to them about "Warranty". I just in the best text possible for PRICE of the Board and 2 screws. Short and sweet. I even waited until today to even ask outside of that email for help.

But ALL I got from Carvewright Support was "Warranty Expired".

WOW, this is what Carvewright calls "Customer Support" ????

I guess it is time to move to a differnet piece of equipment and part the carvewright our.

As I said I am in a HORRIBLE MOOD. And this just finished me.

[Ropdoc]

I just want to say that I get the BEST "Customer Support" here on this website form all of you. It is fast and accurate. You all support each other on Projects and so on.

I Thank you all for that. In case you can't here it .... I am aplouding you.

Dave

[c6craig]

Dave,

That looks like an automated response. They don't charge the support fee for ordering parts, I have done it in the recent past. You may just have to break down and call them, I find wrestling with their email system just not worth the rise in blood pressure :)

Good luck,
Craig

[Ropdoc]

Craig,

Thank you, I understand. I am using the info found above and going thru Sears website.

Dave


Dave,

That looks like an automated response. They don't charge the support fee for ordering parts, I have done it in the recent past. You may just have to break down and call them, I find wrestling with their email system just not worth the rise in blood pressure :)

Good luck,
Craig

[dbfletcher]

Craig,

Thank you, I understand. I am using the info found above and going thru Sears website.

Dave

That might be risky as well. I have also seen a number of posts on this forum where people tried to order parts via the Sears website and it was months before the parts arrived. I really think it is best just to call LHR.

Doug Fletcher

[Ropdoc]

My problem now with calling them is that I am SSSSOOOOOOO PISSED. It took a couple of days to respond. Ok I could let that go. But to get an automated responce. And that response is telling me my Warranty is up. I knew that. Dah. I bought the thing as soon as it came out.

I just want to get my machine working again.

[c6craig]

My problem now with calling them is that I am SSSSOOOOOOO PISSED. It took a couple of days to respond. Ok I could let that go. But to get an automated responce. And that response is telling me my Warranty is up. I knew that. Dah. I bought the thing as soon as it came out.

I just want to get my machine working again.

A couple deep breaths and a quick phone call, Dave :) Don't let it get to you, it's not worth it. Don't worry, as soon as you get past the hold time and get a person they will take care of you. I have called pretty pissed a few times myself and they have handled it just fine. Just make sure to bite your tongue with expletives ;)

Good luck,
Craig

[Ropdoc]

lol

Yes Sir. I will keep my Truckerees silent. And yes I will call them to order the screws and Sensor.

[Digitalwoodshop]

While your waiting for a reply from LHR try this....

SLice down the back of the board sensor. Removing the back flap.

If the LED's fall out then your toast....

If the LED's stay on the board then remove the window and clean the inside. Re assemble with masking tape using the tape to catch the edge of the window.

Someone posted the size of the screws in the last 3 weeks... M2 or M3 Metric.... I would just use masking tape to hold the sensor to the machine until you get some screws. There is enough area on the back to make it work.

A trip to the hardware store for a few small metric screws might be worth it....

The new board sensors have the circuit board glued to the edge of the plastic. Before that, they shook until the LED's snapped off.

Due to your low number I bet the LED's are OK.... Use white copy paper on a cranked down board to get the number.

140 to 156 GOOD.

Good Luck,

AL

[DocWheeler]

If the LED's stay on the board then remove the window and clean the inside. Re assemble with masking tape using the tape to catch the edge of the window.

AL

It is not well known, but if you think of other ways to use tape, 3M will pay for Al to come to your shop and add glue to your L2 coil.

Just pulling your leg Al.:mrgreen:

[Digitalwoodshop]

It is not well known, but if you think of other ways to use tape, 3M will pay for Al to come to your shop and add glue to your L2 coil.

Just pulling your leg Al.:mrgreen:

Snicker.......

AL:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

[Kenm810]

:grin: Our #1

[PCW]

:mrgreen:LOL:mrgreen: Good one Ken. I like the tape in the hand.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Now that is a good one..... Is that a roll of masking tape in my right hand?

Thanks,

AL

[Ropdoc]

I removed the window sometime back. But I did not keep it. I have been using the machine with the LEDs exposed. The thing is I just finished one board with no problems. Setup the next board and I get the Sensor error.


While your waiting for a reply from LHR try this....

SLice down the back of the board sensor. Removing the back flap.

If the LED's fall out then your toast....

If the LED's stay on the board then remove the window and clean the inside. Re assemble with masking tape using the tape to catch the edge of the window.

Someone posted the size of the screws in the last 3 weeks... M2 or M3 Metric.... I would just use masking tape to hold the sensor to the machine until you get some screws. There is enough area on the back to make it work.

A trip to the hardware store for a few small metric screws might be worth it....

The new board sensors have the circuit board glued to the edge of the plastic. Before that, they shook until the LED's snapped off.

Due to your low number I bet the LED's are OK.... Use white copy paper on a cranked down board to get the number.

140 to 156 GOOD.

Good Luck,

AL

[Digitalwoodshop]

There is a hole between the LED's that dust can block when exposed.

That hole is where the sensor gets the light from.

The window is made from the same plastic as used on the gear box.

You can also use a Clear View Folder.

AL