Rosette assistance

[ND-Hound]

I'm trying to help a friend with a restoration project, and can't figure out the software set up for this which looks so simple. I downloaded a tutorial that helped some but not completely.
Here are the photos he sent and my attempt creating it:

http://photos.imageevent.com/helenron/misc/forwebsite/websize/rosette2.jpg


http://photos.imageevent.com/helenron/misc/forwebsite/websize/rosette1.jpg

[Old Salt]

you can use router bits to carve.
use obleage draw a 2'" circle 2.5" and 3" and so on
set as cut path choese bit and adjust as needed works great / try differant bit and deepths to get the result you want .

[Old Salt]

sample mpc to look at

[ND-Hound]

I can get the circles but am trying to round off the areas between the circles. Maybe I'm missing something.

[AskBud]

I can get the circles but am trying to round off the areas between the circles. Maybe I'm missing something.

It would be nice if you would attach your MPC.
OldSalt used "Classical" bit for his test, but that may be the reverse of what you want.
AskBud

[ND-Hound]

I don't have the exact dimensions of the rosette, just the board it's on.

[DocWheeler]

ND-Hound,

If you can not create it in another software, try a bit like this (http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v130-4505/ea_-_groove_forming)in vector.

[AskBud]

ND-Hound,

If you can not create it in another software, try a bit like this (http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v130-4505/ea_-_groove_forming)in vector.

Thanks Doc,
As I played, I came to determine that this would be a good way, if we/he could not find someone to modify/sharpen his Classical bit to that shape.

It will need to be carved to the depth shown in my attached picture to avoid lots of sanding, and spaced just right.

Once I had the bit in hand, I would compare it to the 1/4 and 1/2 Roundover bits to see which best matched the "diameter" of the new bit. This would be the one I would select in Designer. I would adjust the circles to get the overlap I want/need, and do a TEST CARVE.I could play with my existing Roundover bits, and my Bullnose, but I think I would be better off buying this new bit and Engineering!.

on a lark, I just added a sample using a 1/2" roundover bit. The depth is way deep due to that existing bit, and the bottom would be flat (unless we reground it, or added a 2nd circle the same size and cut a new bottom depth with a Bull Nose Bit.
AskBud

[ND-Hound]

on a lark, I just added a sample using a 1/2" roundover bit. The depth is way deep due to that existing bit, and the bottom would be flat (unless we reground it, or added a 2nd circle the same size and cut a new bottom depth with a Bull Nose Bit.

Thanks! ! !
I think you got it! I just emailed my friend and he said it doesn't have to be an exact copy so when he sends me the correct dimensions I think the 1/4" roundover bit will work and then touch the bottom with the 1/4 bull nose.

How do I set the carving order so the roundover carves first?

[AskBud]

Thanks! ! !
I think you got it! I just emailed my friend and he said it doesn't have to be an exact copy so when he sends me the correct dimensions I think the 1/4" roundover bit will work and then touch the bottom with the 1/4 bull nose.

How do I set the carving order so the roundover carves first?

I do not know if anyone can say for sure.
I would presume that, since they are both Vector bits, the first bit selected would be used first.
The only way you may know is by what bit is requested, by the machine, last.
AskBud

[Fletcher]

You can try messing with this...

[bjbethke]

[QUOTE=ND-Hound;128524]I'm trying to help a friend with a restoration project, and can't figure out the software set up for this which looks so simple. I downloaded a tutorial that helped some but not completely.
Here are the photos he sent and my attempt creating it:


You could draw that pattern with the "Wolfie's Gradient Designer" search the forum for the download. It works great for making all kinds of weirdo designs; it downloads the grayscale in a BIT Map format.

Great program for making molding shapes. I think it was Mike G, back in 2007 that first posted it???

[Dan-Woodman]

Use a point cutting roundover bit,such as the one from MLCS PART #6432
WWW.MLCSWOODWORKING.COM iT'S A 1/4" ROUNDOVER BIT (PLUNGE CUTTING) THAT COMES TO A POINT AT THE BOTTOM. PICTURE IS IN THE CATALOG.
LATER dANIEL

[Chief]

BJ,

It appears Wolfie has passed on to a greater life. He's not to be found on the internet or our forum. Rest in peace.

Chief

[TIMCOSBY]

some time ago. you can look at all my post or search them to find it.

[ND-Hound]

I tried the 1/4 bullnose and for some reason it's not carving what the software shows it should look like.

Her's the mpc and photoshttp://photos.imageevent.com/helenron/misc/forwebsite/websize/DSCN0112.JPG
Originally I tried these simple circles with smaller routes to
make the edges more rounded and then planned to sand them
to the final shape. The top pic is the original one and the larger
carving is the mpc attached where I eliminated all but the main
circles. Didn't change much. Do I have a setting incorrect somwhere?

http://photos.imageevent.com/helenron/misc/forwebsite/websize/DSCN0113.JPG

[AskBud]

I did a test.
Your MPC is OK. I have 2 guesses!
1) Your real board is less than the measurements in Designer, and you selected "Size to Fit" when asked.
2) You are using a bit larger than the 1/4 inch ballnoes.
AskBud

[ND-Hound]

Board settings are 9 x 12

actual measurements are 8.75 x 12.25

Would it make a difference if I said not to stay under the rollers?

[AskBud]

Board settings are 9 x 12

actual measurements are 8.75 x 12.25

Would it make a difference if I said not to stay under the rollers?

Since you are less than both the width & length, each will ask about "resizing".
Is this a test board, or something you need?
You could make your design board smaller. Width 4" length 6", Do not stay under rollers, do not resize, center on board.
AskBud

[ND-Hound]

This is a test board to use as an example for the friend that is making a matching board for a mantle. The real one will be 51" long and 7.25 wide.

I'm using these dimensions to use scrap boards left over from a construction project. Most of my experience is plaques.

[AskBud]

This is a test board to use as an example for the friend that is making a matching board for a mantle. The real one will be 51" long and 7.25 wide.

I'm using these dimensions to use scrap boards left over from a construction project. Most of my experience is plaques.

In that case, let's use the exact width of the board you are placing in the machine, and select "place on end" (not place on corner) when prompted.
It should end up being 3.5 inches from the actual end of the board.
AskBud

[ND-Hound]

Thanks, I'll give it a try tomorrow after work.

[ND-Hound]

Once board had exact size it worked, thanks..

[ND-Hound]

It worked out although it'll need some sanding.

Thanks for the help.