Z-axis fault problem with cutting bit

[chipseverywhere]

This problem is new to me and I don't remember seeing it on the form. When you load a bit it spins then goes through it's measuring sequence and touches the board tracking encoder assembly(the part that holds the brass roller)with the bit still spinning slowly when it touches the plastic holder it cut a hole clear through so when the bit tryed to find the holder it went all the way down then gave me a z-axix fault. In a quick fix I screwed a brass threaded rod in the hole making it flush top and bottom. This fix let the bit find the holder and is now carving. If you are not watching as this is happens it is hard to see why you are getting a Z-axis fault. Hope this helps if this happens to you.

[dbfletcher]

This problem is new to me and I don't remember seeing it on the form. When you load a bit it spins then goes through it's measuring sequence and touches the board tracking encoder assembly(the part that holds the brass roller)with the bit still spinning slowly when it touches the plastic holder it cut a hole clear through so when the bit tryed to find the holder it went all the way down then gave me a z-axix fault. In a quick fix I screwed a brass threaded rod in the hole making it flush top and bottom. This fix let the bit find the holder and is now carving. If you are not watching as this is happens it is hard to see why you are getting a Z-axis fault. Hope this helps if this happens to you.

I think this is a fairly common problem with some machines. Many of us with these symptoms got pretty good with 5 min epoxy to repair the drill through. Now I just hit stop as soon as the bit start moving toward the keypad side after spinup. Then when the bit has completely stopped, I hit enter (continue) to resume No more drill through's!

Doug Fletcher

[Digitalwoodshop]

I see you have 13 posts but I though I would ask the question anyway...

How many hours do you have on your cut motor? Options, Sensor Data, Cut Motor Hours....

As you get to 200 plus cut motor hours, the brushes get shorter on the cut motor and exert less pressure on the spinning parts when it is coasting to a stop.

Longer brushes push harder and the motor slows down faster.

Plan on replacing the brushes after 250 hours.

Question?.... What was the error message when the bit went through the plastic Brass Roller holder?

AL

[chipseverywhere]

my machine has 957 cut hours over 1000hr on. I have replaced the brushes 3 times and have a new cut motor on hand

[chipseverywhere]

I don't remember the exact fault # but it was an Z- asis fault

[Digitalwoodshop]

WOW.... Lots of hours....

OK... Remove the back of the Z Motor, the Encoder and blow the dust out.

Scrub the rails, especially the area between the upper and lower roller.

Inspect the FSC Cable and look for damage.
Do you have the 18 pin or 14 pin FSC cable?

Impacted dust in the Z belt or pulley cogs.

Loose screws on the back of the Z Truck holding the belt.

Loose Screws on the Z Gear Box or Motor Mounting.

Bad bearing in the Z Gear Box.

Lump of dust on one of the roller bearings.

AL

[dbfletcher]

WOW.... Lots of hours....

OK... Remove the back of the Z Motor, the Encoder and blow the dust out.

Scrub the rails, especially the area between the upper and lower roller.

Inspect the FSC Cable and look for damage.
Do you have the 18 pin or 14 pin FSC cable?

Impacted dust in the Z belt or pulley cogs.

Loose screws on the back of the Z Truck holding the belt.

Loose Screws on the Z Gear Box or Motor Mounting.

Bad bearing in the Z Gear Box.

Lump of dust on one of the roller bearings.

AL

Al,

I think you need to go back and read his original message. From what I understood, he wasnt saying he has a problem.. he was offering a fix for the problem he did encounter. I have one machine that after spin up, if i dont hit stop when it goes to the keypad side, will never stop spinning by the time it touches down on the plastic "triangle" by the kepad. If the cutting bit is in, it would always drill right thru and throw a z-error. Like I siad in my first post.. if i just hit stop... let the bit stop spinnning on its own... then hit continue i never have an issue. The chuck isnt being powered at this point.. it is just inertia that continues to make it spin... not sure why some machines seem to be able to stop in time and others dont. To me its would indicate that paritcular machine has less friction in the linkages from the motor to the chuck.... which you would think is a good thing (with the exception in this case of not being able to get stopped by the time it reaches the keypad side)

Now.. this is my understandin of the OP's orginal message. If I am way off base, Im sure he will correct me and you can ignore my post.

Doug Fletcher

[Digitalwoodshop]

OK good point... My Bad...:)

LA....

I mean AL