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alan.galbraith
04-14-2010, 03:57 PM
I would like very much to close out my registration for this piece of you know what, but if I want to fix it, which I have not decided on that part yet. but if I want to get most of my money out of it, I probably will have to fix it.

As for this forum, I guess I must have been blackballed, because no one answered my last post. So Good bye to all and I hope you keep spending money on this money pit.

I sure this post will disappear soon.

robbrigg2
04-14-2010, 04:02 PM
I would like very much to close out my registration for this piece of you know what, but if I want to fix it, which I have not decided on that part yet. but if I want to get most of my money out of it, I probably will have to fix it.

As for this forum, I guess I must have been blackballed, because no one answered my last post. So Good bye to all and I hope you keep spending money on this money pit.

I sure this post will disappear soon.

I feel your pain... I was in your shoes once... but I had so much invested I couldn't just "Suck it up and drive on" so I put it on the side for a few days, and started fresh.... If you decide to get rid of it I would completely understand but once you get it going it is worth it's weight in gold, well an inferior metal at least.

c6craig
04-14-2010, 04:03 PM
Sorry you feel that way. Sometimes it's better to walk away and lose money rather than endure frustration. This is supposed to be fun, and you pretty much have to take the good with the bad on these machines.

Good luck on your decision, I hope you decide to get your machine fixed and stick around.

Craig

Digitalwoodshop
04-14-2010, 06:20 PM
Alan,

Call me... Sent PM...

AL

castingman
04-14-2010, 06:39 PM
alan
pm me as well we are pretty close.

Michael

will george
04-15-2010, 12:30 AM
April here And I found your post... I like my machine but I have had problems with it.. Not many I could not solve on my own or with help from in here...

Nothing in life is simple! A machine takes a bit more of a challange to work with OR was it the two year old child that you never gave up on? I would think from your post that you give up very easy.. It should give you a new, whatever, to solve for the next BETTER.. day.. Hang in there SIR..

dmede
04-15-2010, 09:08 PM
I gotta say, these posts are very discouraging to me. No because the OP is having trouble as much as the response is so much apologizing for the quirkiness of the machine... it makes it clear that these problems are not just user error but that these machines really are this fiddley.

I'm still curious about the CW but it's not encouraging to see that the solution to so many of the problems people are having is "just press on" or "it takes time to know your machine and get it working right". I'd wager that no other wood working machine in your shop, or piece of computer equipment in your office comes close to the lack of reliability I'm seeing in the CW. I hope I'm wrong but man you'd think this was a antique British motorcycle not a modern piece of wood working equipment.

chkorte
04-15-2010, 09:42 PM
I gotta say, these posts are very discouraging to me. No because the OP is having trouble as much as the response is so much apologizing for the quirkiness of the machine... it makes it clear that these problems are not just user error but that these machines really are this fiddley.

I'm still curious about the CW but it's not encouraging to see that the solution to so many of the problems people are having is "just press on" or "it takes time to know your machine and get it working right". I'd wager that no other wood working machine in your shop, or piece of computer equipment in your office comes close to the lack of reliability I'm seeing in the CW. I hope I'm wrong but man you'd think this was a antique British motorcycle not a modern piece of wood working equipment.

I’ve decided to put in my 2¢ on the complaints that have been posted on this forum about the CW. I am by no means an expert on the CW but I have owned my CW for about 5 months and have had my share of problems. I have carved several projects and had several error messages and some parts failures. I can honestly say that I have felt the frustration and irritation that the CW can leave us with as well as the thrill of the end result of a successful carve. More than once I found myself cussing out LHR for the shortcomings of the CW and asking myself why I spent so much money on a machine that at the time seems so unreliable. Of course the answer is obvious to most of us. We put up with the shortcomings of the CW because of the outstanding things we can create with it. Let’s face it. This machine can produce some absolutely marvelous carvings with minimal input from us. And the software is fabulous. It is easy to use yet extremely powerful. This forum provides outstanding support and insight into the workings and functions of the CW, advice for fixing problems as well as additional patterns posted by CW users. All this having been said, if you are considering buying a CW you should consider a few things. The machine needs regular attention, it has its idiosyncrasies. It likes to be clean. Its’ almost obsessive about it. I clean mine after every carve. Its’ a simple enough thing to do but you have to do it! It also wants to be lubricated. I wipe down the Y and Z tracks with silicone lubricant after every carve and clean the vertical guide rods regularly. I also fitted it with a dust collector. I have found that if I do these things it minimizes errors and down time. If you’re thinking that all you will need to do is feed it a piece of wood and push a couple buttons and walk away with a work of art this machine is not for you. You will have to tinker with it and will need patience and a certain level of mechanical aptitude. I am starting to believe that the machine is basically sound and that LHR is doing all they can to improve it. Whenever I call LHR for assistance I have always been treated well and received help. It would be nice if LHR had a toll free phone number but that’s a topic for another time. At this time my CW is operating reasonably well. I am hoping my problems are all behind me but if something pops up I will stick with it and get it fixed because I look forward to completing that next project. If I were to ever buy another new one I would get it from Lowes or Sears, somewhere I can get an extended warranty. So if you are considering buying a CW don’t be scared off by all the negative comments but be prepared to tinker with it. It can do amazing things if you stick with it.

temler
04-15-2010, 10:16 PM
I would like very much to close out my registration for this piece of you know what, but if I want to fix it, which I have not decided on that part yet. but if I want to get most of my money out of it, I probably will have to fix it.

As for this forum, I guess I must have been blackballed, because no one answered my last post. So Good bye to all and I hope you keep spending money on this money pit.

I sure this post will disappear soon.

I am so sorry for your pain and problems on this. with me when my machine give me problems i just start looking at the machine i use to fix before my injury. here is a company that paid 90k for a used machine and they are paying me a ton to work on it and the price of one part could buy me a new CW machine and then I stop griping about my little problems i have with my cw machine. I know this doesn't help you but these 90k machine can't do much more than you are paying less than 2k for so for me this makes me feel better. i know this doesn't make you feel better, but if you decided to fix it let me know and i will be glad to help. I like working on this machine almost as much as i like carving with it.
I know i am nuts, and you would be right.
I hope you will stick around with this group. some time a post will slip through the cracks, sorry no one got to you

Take care
Tim 8)

dmede
04-15-2010, 10:18 PM
I’ve decided to put in my 2¢ on the complaints that have been posted on this forum about the CW. I am by no means an expert on the CW but I have owned my CW for about 5 months and have had my share of problems. I have carved several projects and had several error messages and some parts failures. I can honestly say that I have felt the frustration and irritation that the CW can leave us with as well as the thrill of the end result of a successful carve. More than once I found myself cussing out LHR for the shortcomings of the CW and asking myself why I spent so much money on a machine that at the time seems so unreliable. Of course the answer is obvious to most of us. We put up with the shortcomings of the CW because of the outstanding things we can create with it. Let’s face it. This machine can produce some absolutely marvelous carvings with minimal input from us. And the software is fabulous. It is easy to use yet extremely powerful. This forum provides outstanding support and insight into the workings and functions of the CW, advice for fixing problems as well as additional patterns posted by CW users. All this having been said, if you are considering buying a CW you should consider a few things. The machine needs regular attention, it has its idiosyncrasies. It likes to be clean. Its’ almost obsessive about it. I clean mine after every carve. Its’ a simple enough thing to do but you have to do it! It also wants to be lubricated. I wipe down the Y and Z tracks with silicone lubricant after every carve and clean the vertical guide rods regularly. I also fitted it with a dust collector. I have found that if I do these things it minimizes errors and down time. If you’re thinking that all you will need to do is feed it a piece of wood and push a couple buttons and walk away with a work of art this machine is not for you. You will have to tinker with it and will need patience and a certain level of mechanical aptitude. I am starting to believe that the machine is basically sound and that LHR is doing all they can to improve it. Whenever I call LHR for assistance I have always been treated well and received help. It would be nice if LHR had a toll free phone number but that’s a topic for another time. At this time my CW is operating reasonably well. I am hoping my problems are all behind me but if something pops up I will stick with it and get it fixed because I look forward to completing that next project. If I were to ever buy another new one I would get it from Lowes or Sears, somewhere I can get an extended warranty. So if you are considering buying a CW don’t be scared off by all the negative comments but be prepared to tinker with it. It can do amazing things if you stick with it.

I'm not totally put off by all this... yet. And I have pieced together that at least most of the basic issues seem to stem from either the CW's compulsive need for religious cleaning or the user not understanding the limits of the machine and trying to force the work in some way (too deep a cut, too fast, boards not square or flat etc). that and the unbalanced OEM chuck. I'd liken this to the early days of computing when a small group of diehards fawned all over the new "personal computers" that essentially did very little and had constant problems, but were so novel that it was worth all the trouble. LHR has a great concept that seems to do amazing things for little money... when it works right. They just don't have the execution or manufacturing down as far as I can tell.

Take this all with a grain of salt, I haven't even run a machine myself yet, but I have been reading the board and there is definitely a story to be told here. And an opportunity for anyone who can duplicate LHRs success with a more reliable machine.

Ike
04-15-2010, 11:28 PM
It's funny how you see how one person has great success and others don't! I have owned several vehicles in my life and have issues with Ford and swore I would never own another! Then I bought a GM and had issues and swore I never would buy another. I have own a Dodge and still won't own another! But since I have owned all Fords and had great success and today all GM products and have had great success.

So what does that have to do with CC/CW? Like new car models this machine has had it issues and still has some small sensors issues. I too have owned my share of these machines. I have owned 4 and had to sell a couple because I needed the money and kept one for parts. But I have had one since Dec. 06.

When I bought my first CC I too was not impressed. I was a seasoned woodworker and sign maker and knew how to use a computer. So why read the manual I am smart and can figure out anything that may go wrong!

Lol I was a fool to believe this and until I read how to use the machine and the software I continued to have problems. I blamed LHR for making a lousy machine and for every issue I returned it for repair. Then being tired of not having my CC, I bought a large Shopbot and then a smaller K2 CNC.

Then I read the manual and began to learn the software for the CC and at the same time learn the other 2 CNC. I started to assemble the SB to get as far as the table, while the K2 was still in the box it was shipped in.

As I learned how to use the CC and software the SB never was assemble and I sold it. The K2 is out of the box, but still has not been used. I learned to use the CC by reading the manual, asking questions in the forum and learned how to use software and LHR continued to fix the issues by replacing parts and updating software.

To this day I enjoy my CW and by knowing how to use it and maintain and clean I have little to no problems. When you have a axis stall it can mean anything from a dirty rail to a wire being disconnected while cleaning.

For the money this CNC that comes with it's own software and it has a probe and can make true 3D projects it the best thing going! Don't believe me I spent $10,000 on a SB another $4,000.00 on the K2 and then over $1000.00 for software to run it and that was cheap! Just ask Michael Tyler what he paid for his Aspire!

Ike

Metalhead781
04-16-2010, 05:12 AM
The CW is what it is, a hobbyist's machine. I'm not gonna suggest whether woodworking is the hobby or the machine is. LHR deserves a lot of credit for what they do. The software covers all the basics of cnc woodworking but the more advanced options would be too much for the majority of the users to handle. On the other hand, a typical cnc router isn't designed for one of this or two of that. You can really beat the x capacity accept with a full size machine. It just needs to be more robust is all. That would unfortunately drive up the price and there goes a lot of customers. If someone's looking for a big machine in a cheap package this is not it. It's slow and often frustrating to operate with so many restrictions however without those restrictions along with brass rollers and sensors, the machine would need more common sense.

MH

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 09:33 AM
A hobbyhist machine should not require you to have an engineering degree or at least a degree from wyotech (or however you spell that). The problem is I'm not mechanically inclined. I am however an IT specialist. Software isn't a problem, it's the hardware. I am trying to fix this thing now, but even the instructions that I downloaded aren't complete. I downloaded the z truck pdf and am at step 11. There is a flat ribbon cable behind the truck but there is no place to unplug that cable. The instructions don't talk about it.

I really haven't changed my mind about this machine, but if I want to get some money out of it, I need to fix it. I have also posted my findings on the other posting about z axis stall 313. I foresee another $500 to fix it. plus $25 to talk to support, that is if I want to talk to tech support, but they were wrong before about a diagnosis and probably will be again.

c6craig
04-16-2010, 10:11 AM
A hobbyhist machine should not require you to have an engineering degree or at least a degree from wyotech (or however you spell that). The problem is I'm not mechanically inclined. I am however an IT specialist. Software isn't a problem, it's the hardware. I am trying to fix this thing now, but even the instructions that I downloaded aren't complete. I downloaded the z truck pdf and am at step 11. There is a flat ribbon cable behind the truck but there is no place to unplug that cable. The instructions don't talk about it.

I really haven't changed my mind about this machine, but if I want to get some money out of it, I need to fix it. I have also posted my findings on the other posting about z axis stall 313. I foresee another $500 to fix it. plus $25 to talk to support, that is if I want to talk to tech support, but they were wrong before about a diagnosis and probably will be again.

Hey Alan, if you are talking about the FCC cable, it has a little black plastic bracket/housing that goes over it to hold it in place, you have to remove that to remove the cable i believe. I think it was just one screw that holds it on there.

You can see a decent pic of it in the lower right hand corner of picture 1 in apendix A at the end of the instructions.

Craig

mtylerfl
04-16-2010, 10:19 AM
I downloaded the z truck pdf and am at step 11. There is a flat ribbon cable behind the truck but there is no place to unplug that cable. The instructions don't talk about it.

Hi Alan,

It sounds like you may have the old z-truck in which there is a small flat cable that is no longer used. (I think AL aka Digitalwoodshop may have a photo of that somewhere on the Forum). If that is the cable you are referring to, I know you cannot view where it actually unplugs, but you can just pull down on it (might have to pull hard) to unplug it. That may explain why the instructions don't mention it - that cable does not exist on current z-trucks.


I foresee another $500 to fix it. plus $25 to talk to support, that is if I want to talk to tech support, but they were wrong before about a diagnosis and probably will be again.

I believe the $25 charge is "per problem". It is my understanding that you will not be charged again for the same exact problem until it is resolved.

I sure hope you can start enjoying your machine soon, instead of fighting it!

lynnfrwd
04-16-2010, 10:22 AM
To All...I really enjoy watching these particular kinds of threads.

Alan:

I understand your frustration and you have every right to voice them on this forum, but there are particulars about your machine that need to be mentioned.

Your machine was one of the first produced. It is over 3 years old, has had 3 different owners and has never been upgraded. The reason you think the instructions on the Z-Truck pdf are incomplete is because they are for the current Z-Truck. It appears from your post that you have the old one, which most customers replaced over two years ago.


I am trying to fix this thing now, but even the instructions that I downloaded aren't complete. I downloaded the z truck pdf and am at step 11. There is a flat ribbon cable behind the truck but there is no place to unplug that cable. The instructions don't talk about it.

I am sorry, you may not have been aware of these issues before you purchased that particular used machine.

We (LHR) will be happy to assist you in getting your machine operational, if that is what you decide to do.

Digitalwoodshop
04-16-2010, 11:40 AM
Picture 1 and 5 tell the story....

Picture 1 shows the OLD No Longer Used Cable that contained the data for the Probe, Z Homing Sensor, and I believe the second Magnetic Sensor to monitor Cut Motor Speed.....

Picture 5 shows the OLD Z Motor and OLD Circuit Board. See the connector for the Z Truck Data....

Picture 4 shows the NEW Z Motor with the NEW Circuit Board Without a connector for the Z data cable.... Hence.... NOT USED....

Pictures 2 and 3.... How to tell if you have the OLD Z and 16 pin System and the new 14 pin System.

EVERYONE should be familiar as to weather they have the old or new Z... It will make a BIG Difference if you ever order parts.

If you have the OLD Z get ready to have Z Stall Problems, Z Diving into the board, and Sensor Problems..... REPLACE IT with the new Z Bundle.

AL

cnsranch
04-16-2010, 12:26 PM
To All...I really enjoy watching these particular kinds of threads.

I don't - they frustrate the crap out of me.

Alan's first posts were about how he got such a great deal on a used machine (saved over $1,000). How many posts are there here where the more seasoned folks will tell you not to buy a used machine as your first, unless you're really mechanically inclined?

Next, he rants about what a POS the machine is, that's he's gonna dump it, then doesn't understand why no one will respond to his posts asking for help, and hopes we continue to pour money in our lousy machine.

I've had a couple of problems, but my machine hasn't. I've broken a couple bits, but I broke them, the machine didn't.

Alan, you thought you could buy a third-hand machine and it would work without any problems, or not need any parts to be replaced. God only knows how the machine was maintained before you got it - or maybe you checked before you gave the guy your money. Big mistake.

I'll never buy a new car again, but you can bet I won't buy a used one without a CARFAX. You do, Buyer Beware.

dmede - This is a great machine, and produces terrific stuff. But you have to understand that it doesn't create anything, it only gives you what you told it to give you - you give it a bad design, it'll carve a bad project. You have to LEARN how to use it, both the software side, and the machine side.

You can go out and buy a $2,000 bicycle, and take it out in the parking lot, and get on it. If you've never ridden a bike before that time, you're gonna fall on your a** until you LEARN how to ride it.

To All...Quit blaming LHR and the machine unless you're SURE it's not operator error, or lack of knowledge on your part.

You can delete this any time.

chebytrk
04-16-2010, 12:30 PM
Here ! Here ! :) We used to call it O.H.S. back in the military... Operator Head Space :)

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 12:43 PM
I just hope you boys don't have as many problems with any thing you buy. And don't sit there and tell me what I should have expected. The machine only has 39 hours of carving time and I put about 10 on myself. The person I bought it from was a cabinet maker and decided that the machine wouldn't really enhance his product and felt he could use the money for equipment more up his line of work. How the heck am I supposed to tell a new from the very old when the cheap sobs at LHR want money every time you speak to them. I have seen PC makers go out business with a policy like that.

Thanks for all who have helped so far.

By the way, The cabinet maker did a fairly nice demo before I bought and also showed me one thing he had already done. Like taking a car for a test drive. Also, LHR can't tell when the machine was made, therefore no CARFAX

cnsranch
04-16-2010, 12:49 PM
LHR can't tell when the machine was made

Sure about that?


LHR knows the chain of ownership, when it was manufactured (i.e., what generation, and that tells them its mechanical configuration), whether it had ever been upgraded (unless, of course, the owner upgraded it without communicating with LHR).

lynnfrwd
04-16-2010, 01:06 PM
Originally Posted by lynnfrwd
To All...I really enjoy watching these particular kinds of threads.


Originally Posted by cnsranch
I don't - they frustrate the crap out of me.

What I enjoy is watching you guys rally behind this product.

Alan:
I know you were not aware of these issues with that machine or it's history.


Originally Posted by alan.gailbraith
Also, LHR can't tell when the machine was made, therefore no CARFAX

We do know some things about the machine. We know when it was first registered by a customer and notes about the machine and how many owners. It can take some digging, but we can provide limited information with the serial number. We obviously don't know maintenance practices of the owners or if the machine is working.

dmede
04-16-2010, 01:51 PM
dmede - This is a great machine, and produces terrific stuff. But you have to understand that it doesn't create anything, it only gives you what you told it to give you - you give it a bad design, it'll carve a bad project. You have to LEARN how to use it, both the software side, and the machine side.


No question, junk in = junk out. As I said in an earlier post I see a lot these issues coming down to user error.

But I see a lot of other problems that are related to (possibly) inferior manufacturing or design and thats got nothing to do with the designs people put in the machine. There a few threads around here about the power supply coil or something shaking loose, sounds very common with a know fix. I read about users needed to monitor their flex shaft with an IR heat thermometer to prevent it from melting! I see that general consensus is that a lot of the problems are related to the vibration caused by the OEM chuck (often fixed with a reasonably priced Rock Chuck). There are other I can't recall right now.

I'm on very thin ice here not having used the machine, I know that. I'm just trying to wrap my head around what the real issue are with it and what is user created. Seems to me like a lot of it is the machine.

And I will add that having used the design software demo now for about a week, creating a few projects one of which is being cut this weekend, I love it! Great software package. Great concept all around, I just want to feel more confidant that if I buy I'm not going to spending all my time asking you guys for help! :D

cnsranch
04-16-2010, 02:17 PM
There a few threads around here about the power supply coil or something shaking loose, sounds very common with a know fix.

You got me there - personally, I haven't seen the problem.


I read about users needed to monitor their flex shaft with an IR heat thermometer to prevent it from melting! I'm one of them - that bad boy needs the proper lube - it's spinning at 20,000 RPM, and that will cause a lot of heat. I prefer a thicker lube formerly made by CraneCams - haven't re-lubed my flexshaft in over 200 hours (probably ought to, though).


I see that general consensus is that a lot of the problems are related to the vibration caused by the OEM chuck (often fixed with a reasonably priced Rock Chuck). I'm looking forward to the new chuck LHR is coming out with - I haven't had a problem with mine, though.


I'm just trying to wrap my head around what the real issue are with it and what is user created. Seems to me like a lot of it is the machine.I'm of the opinion that the majority of problems are user-created/user-perpetuated. As an example, if you allow an improperly inserted bit adapter in the QC, it can trash the QC. Problem is, in the beginning, a new user might not even realize he's inserted it incorrectly, and it may take a little time before it's evident that the QC is trashed. So, without realizing just what caused the problem, the equipment is blamed.


And I will add that having used the design software demo now for about a week, creating a few projects one of which is being cut this weekend, I love it! Great software package.I agree, although you need to know that once you start actually carving some of your designs, they may not come out as you expect - that's only because you haven't learned the "limitations" of the software/hardware. As an example, a certain text may look good in Designer, but may actually cause the wood to chip, due to too high a letter, too narrow a wall, etc. That's not a flaw, it's just a matter of learning what will, and what can't, be done.


Great concept all around, I just want to feel more confidant that if I buy I'm not going to spending all my time asking you guys for help! :DBelieve me, the guys that are the happiest with the machine are the ones that ask the most questions, and learn the most they can. There are tons of folks here to help, all you gotta do is ask (and try to make the threads/comments/questions constructive :cool:)

dmede
04-16-2010, 02:28 PM
cnsranch,

just to clarify a little on my last post, I don't think people are having issues with the chuck itself but with directly related problems. the lack of balance in the chuck seems to cause other problems like small parts shaking loose, (like the power supply), some of the stalls and extra heat in the flex shaft. This may be just marketing from Rock Chuck but he mentions not having to babysit the flex shaft once you change the chuck.

If I'm mistaken about some of those conclusions, board members let me know.

I'm with you on not assuming the software shows exactly what the machine will give. Knowing your wood has a lot to do with results in carving whether by hand or machine. Having built three small wooden boats I'm intimately familiar with the concept of needing to make some expensive sawdust from time to time.

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 02:39 PM
I will now tell you what I was doing when this happened. I was creating a sign 20" x 10" with a carve region 18" x 8" (I don't have access right now to the mpc to attach) basically a home street sign with 4 numbers about 3" tall and the name of the street about 2.5" tall with the dogs and duck pattern on one end. I would stop the machine about every 3% of the carve to vacuum out the sawdust so that wouldn't cause problems. Which I have done before careful to ground myself before starting. On the third time of doing this, I hit the go button and immediately received the x axis stall 313 error. I really can't believe that I zapped the thing. I ended up moving the z truck up and down manually which seemed to be a problem near the bottom. I started an easier carve to see if it would run, it made it all the way to the homing and just before doing a surface check when it now gives that error every time.

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 02:41 PM
One more thing. When I ordered the traction belts i also ordered a new carving bit, which is what I was using. The bit was inserted properly. When I first got the machine the bit was very hard to get out. I have since cleaned it thoroughly and it now removes easily.

c6craig
04-16-2010, 02:47 PM
One more thing. When I ordered the traction belts i also ordered a new carving bit, which is what I was using. The bit was inserted properly. When I first got the machine the bit was very hard to get out. I have since cleaned it thoroughly and it now removes easily.

For what it's worth, when you ordered the traction belts did you install them yourself? I know there were some spacers that had to be added to allow for the extra thickness of the belts.

Craig

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 02:48 PM
c6craig,

Thanks for pointing out that picture, but I was following the instructions for removal page by page up to step 11 of removal. So your saying that the ribbon cable (FCC) disappears into the bracket that holds the z truck (i'm using the scientific name:)) and comes out there to be unplugged. The instructions say not to remove the z motor only loosen the screws. Didn't know what to do. I also hope we are talking about the same pdf file. The one I downloaded was z truck instructions not the other.

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 02:51 PM
Again I followed the instructions line for line when installing the traction belts. In the instructions it says to use the spacer block to gauge the distance between two things. I don't remember off the top of my head right now what that was, but no spacers were instructed to be installed.

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 02:54 PM
I just went back and read the sandpaper belt instructions and they don't say to install any spacers, they do mention the spacing block to check the area that I did check. So If I did wrong, the instructions are wrong.

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 02:57 PM
Maybe I misspoke when I said traction belts, I did mean the sandpaper drive belts which I thought were the same. I need to read the other instructions about a traction belt to see if there is a difference.

c6craig
04-16-2010, 03:03 PM
Alan,

For the cable, I was referring to CarveWright_service_replace_z-truck.pdf creation date of Sunday, July 26, 2009, 9:06:35 PM. It looks like they have you straightened out on that though.

You dont need spacers for the sandpaper belts, when you said traction belts I was thinking of the rubber ones. When you install the rubber ones they are a little thicker and require spacers to work correctly.

Sorry to be of not much help :)

Craig

alan.galbraith
04-16-2010, 03:16 PM
c6craig,


You are a help. The documentation calls the sandpaper belts traction belts also. So, we can both be confused.

thanks again.

Digitalwoodshop
04-16-2010, 03:51 PM
The spacer is Only added when you change from sand paper belts to the thicker rubber belts.

Alan, Do you have the 16 or 14 pin FSC system?

In my Z Truck Picture 4 a few posts back shows the black plastic cable holder off the machine. If you fail to put the black holder back on the cable will droop and snag and rip.... How do I know this..... I ripped a new cable....

I place tape around the cable at the black holder to extend the flex point out away slightly to prevent a sharp bend in the FSC Cable.

Picture shows before tape applied.

I will be back in the shop at 7 for the Night Shift... Let me call you Alan... Sent PM.

AL

c6craig
04-16-2010, 03:53 PM
Alan,

The things I am showing and posting pictures of is just poking around Al's real knowledge. If you really want this thing fixed...take him up on his offer and call...Al can fix anything on these machines....

Good luck...

Craig

alan.galbraith
04-17-2010, 10:02 AM
c6craig,

again thanks for you help. I have emailed Al. I'm just not mechanically inclined.

Digitalwoodshop
04-19-2010, 12:47 PM
Got a PM form Alan and after 37 posts it comes down the the root cause is that he has the 16 pin FSC Cable.

ANYONE getting a Z Stall and searching for this later......

If you have the old 16 pin FSC Cable you WILL HAVE Z Problems from Z Stall, Z Diving into the wood, Board Sensor Problems.

Lets narrow this down in one or 2 posts... If you have the 16 pin FSC you will have problems and will need to replace it with the New Z Bundle.....

I post the pictures of the Z Bundle Circuit boards at least once of not more a week....

One more time....

AL