check cut motor

[mikehumphrey]

I am getting "check cut motor" message....I have bench tested motor,have voltage at motor leads, door switch is O.K., RPM sensor counts when I rotate chuck, I have checked the brushes and cleaned the motor and all electrical connections......I also have just replaced the ac motor control electronics board (per Carvewright printed instruction) which previous one failed (with a loud pop) when I inserted my card after recent upgrade. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with my problem, but thought it might be important to provide sequence of events.

Thanks,
Mike.

[Capt Bruce]

Similar experience with my CW every time I'm doing a Vector cut or Centerline lettering. I've just come to accept that the message will come up about 10% into the carve. I press Enter and it continues without further interruption. Frustrating but not fatal so I accept it as a machine/software error without harm.

[CarverJerry]

I get the exact same thing as Capt. Bruce when doing centerline text and it finishes up ok by just pressing continue (enter). Must be a software glich. I'm running 1.153

CJ

[gumbo]

I was getting check cut motor when doing centerline lettering and found the screw that holds the flexshaft had loosened up and I think the shaft may have been twinsting. Tightened the screw and the error went away. Just some food for thought.

[Capt Bruce]

Thanks for that tip Gumbo. Going down to the shop now to check for that possible fault. Thanks again.

[djcompujock]

Hi I am getting the same message Check Cut Motor... I bought a used machine and I guess its been sitting around with oil. I did clean and oil as much as I could however, just after I start a project I get the error message. I dont want to sound dumb... but... What screw did you tighten to fix your problem? I dont see a screw!

[DianMayfield]

This is a really old thread. It would help if we knew exactly when you were getting the message. Is it for every project, or just those with centerline text?

There is a small set screw that holds in the flex shaft at the motor. Just above where the keyed end of the shaft locks in. That could be what they were referring to.

I get the check cut motor message EVERY time I do a cutout (and only then). What I find is the motor really ramps up to super speed just before or a few seconds into a cut. I think there is an issue with a message being sent to the motor or the speed sensor, but it is so common on the message boards we all just hit continue and haven't gotten an answer from LHR as to the cause.

[bergerud]

The check cut motor message means that the motor did not attain a specific (high) rpm in a short allotted time. This can be as simple as the machine is on a extension cord, or on a circuit with other loads. It could also mean the motor itself has problems.

Most of us just press continue and that is that. (The message can only occur once per reboot.)

[Digitalwoodshop]

And speaking of the motor... It would be a good idea to inspect the 2 cut motor brushes. If the brush gets too short the cut motor can stall and snap a bit.... Much cheaper to replace the cut motor brushes every 250 cut hours... And at the same time replace the 2 inner Y Bearings. Every 250 and your machine will run much better.

When the Y bearings fail they grind down the shaft of the big gear.

We have found that doing Preventive Maintenance and cleaning every 250 is a good thing....

Order a FFC Cable when you order brushes.

AL

[DickB]

I get this as well. I asked about this at the Conference this year. I was told that the magnets on the motors often work themselves loose, and this can cause the symptom. The magnet mounting has been redisigned on the new cut motors, and I was advised to replace mine, as the new motors are also quieter. I do plan to do this in the near future.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes, the old magnet had a nasty habit of popping off.... If you go to Sensor Data and call up the cut motor then turn the chuck the magnet will count 0000 0001 0002 0003... IF working.... If not.... 0000 forever....

The new retainer solved that problem in 2007....

Even with my working magnet I get the check cut motor or CCM in the beginning of almost every project.... I use the break in the action to start the dust collector... IF you reboot the machine you get it... IF you did the same project a 2nd time with new wood and did NOT turn off the Power and reboot you will NOT get the CCM...

Lots posted on this including a few comments from #1 at LHR.

AL

[DianMayfield]

I have one of the new cut motors, bought in Sept I think. Much quieter (well, lower pitch whine), but still have the CCM error.

[bergerud]

We have discussed this on the beta forum. The users (some beta testers) think the test is too sensitive whereas the LHR end thinks it indicates something is wrong. If a new motor gives the error, it must be something like low line voltage.

It should be noted that the motor test is done for each project even though the error message will only be displayed once. Whenever the speed test fails, (reported or not) the variable speed control is disabled for that project. My point here is that there is a consequence to failing the speed test and after pressing continue a few times, one should consider that something may not be quite right.

I have just replaced my extension cord with a short, beefy one. I am hoping that fixes my system.

[rbrown]

While reading through this thread, while looking for a reason why they have the cut motor designed to suck air from in front of the rear roller, then blow some of it back into the machine...

I noticed that some one mentioned about oiling the motor... don't do it. The bearings are sealed... in order to oil them, you need to take the seals off. And if you are going to to that, you might as well clean them while you are at it. Just be careful not to lose the ball bearings when you take them apart or rip the seals. If you look for "cleaning skateboard bearings" on you tube, it will show you how to clean them.

However unless you have a real super dirty (dirt not wood dust) shop, I would just leave them alone.

If you want to test the bearings...

test by popping off one side of the motor cover leaving armature and field in other half of case, hold the brush down with a piece of plastic or take the brush out first, then turn slowly by hand, if motor armature moves smooth without feeling like it is catching on something... leave them alone. If it feels like it has dirt in there then try and clean the bearings, but more than likely, once they start to feel bad, they are beyond cleaning. Also check for end play by wiggling the armature and see if there is play in the bearings, those bearings aren't designed for side thrust, but you can get an idea if they are getting worn out, if the bearing centers move side to side more than a hair.

You can also check by pulling the armature totally out, but I like to check mine sitting where it will be running from, so you can see if there are any other issues.

[bergerud]

I cannot recall anyone having the bearings go in the cut motor.

I can report that after switching my 15 ft extension cord to a 12 gauge (rated 15 amp), I seem to have eliminated the check cut motor warning.

[mikemi]

I cannot recall anyone having the bearings go in the cut motor.

I can report that after switching my 15 ft extension cord to a 12 gauge (rated 15 amp), I seem to have eliminated the check cut motor warning.


Dan, I have both of my machines on dedicated 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring and they both give me the check cut motor error when doing vector and/or text.
It usually happens within the first couple of minutes, I just hit enter and continue.

Mike

[henry1]

Dan, I have both of my machines on dedicated 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring and they both give me the check cut motor error when doing vector and/or text.
It usually happens within the first couple of minutes, I just hit enter and continue.

Mike
I have the same here why don't know

[unitedcases]

I have had a bearing go. On the side that connects to the flex. Go might be a harsh word. It still spun cleanly. Just tight.

[bergerud]

If anyone could wear out a cut motor bearing, it would be you! How many hours on that motor?

[brdad]

We have discussed this on the beta forum. The users (some beta testers) think the test is too sensitive whereas the LHR end thinks it indicates something is wrong. If a new motor gives the error, it must be something like low line voltage.

I just installed a new cut motor (the case on the old one cracked) and have only done four test projects with it, but at least three times I have gotten the CCM error. It's been the norm to have the error on over 50% of the projects. It doesn't seem to a be a issue, just a nuisance.

I live in the city, my electrical panel is less than 150 feet from the transformer on the street, and my CW is plugged into a standard (non-GFI) 20A outlet at the panel. My line voltage at the panel typically reads 119-121 volts. I can't imagine low line voltage is a factor, unless it was machine-based. Meaning, the CW power cord/power switch/other line power wiring itself is undersized and can't supply the current on motor start-up, dropping voltage. The power cord is only 18 Ga after all. But it seems if that was the case, most everyone would be having issues. I have had issues with my power switch connections and likely will solder those at some point.

I'm not generally paying attention when the error occurs, but a few times it seemed like it occured as the bit was about to hit the board or just as it touched the board and was already up to a 'decent' RPM. It seemed to me the sensor circuit was expecting either a load on the motor or a reduction in RPM it wasn't seeing, but not knowing what factor(s) actually trigger the error I really could not be sure.

It seems to me LHR could test the low voltage theory just by running the CW off a variac.

[unitedcases]

If anyone could wear out a cut motor bearing, it would be you! How many hours on that motor?
I think it was an original motor. So I would say we'll over 1000. That's a guess though. My oldest machine, "old timer", is about 80 hours away from the illustrious 3000 hour mark. With 400 hours still lost in space from frying the computer at an earlier time before we knew that vacuums were bad...

[brdad]

I've put about 3 hours on my new motor and can't help but think it sounded quieter when I first installed it than it does now. Not a whine, but more of a vibration. Enough that the Y belt oscillates 1/4" inch or so each way. If I touch the motor casing while it is running there is a noticable increase in vibration at the commutator end. But I took the motor out and apart today and the bearings were tight, brushes were fine, the commutator measured concentric and everything was tight and otherwise seemed ok so we'll see what happens after a few more hours. And the CCM error is still there nearly every time.