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sparksfarmer
03-30-2010, 02:36 PM
Hi All,

I finally got my (used) machine set up on the kitchen table and am unable to make sawdust! I snapped the brand new 1/8 bit in under a minute as I did not realize the bit was not turning when I hit enter.
I've looked thru the forum, but did not see anything that explained how to test the cut motor. I decided to just put in a blank 24x6 x1 pine board in and have it route the edge. It went thru what seemed to be the right sequence of events till it said check cut motor. (

Can anyone tell a newbie what is the matter or where to look. I'm already to pull the motor out, but was hoping there is a way to turn the motor on to see if it is working or not.

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,
Bernie

PCW
03-30-2010, 05:17 PM
At the keyboard

Enter 0 followed by 7
Scroll down to sensor test
Scroll down to cut motor
Open the lid & there are two way to turn the motor. First way turn the chuck or second option it to remove the flex shaft and turn the cable by hand. Watch the display as you turn chuck or cable. Normally you should see the display count 1-2-3. If it stays at 0 you have a problem.

sparksfarmer
03-30-2010, 05:38 PM
Hi Dan,

Thanks for the quick reply.
I tried again and can see the armature move when I turn the chuck. Further, when I spin it, I can get it to register up to 1 or 2 depending on how fast I spin it.

It is as if the motor is either not getting power to it, or the motor is toast. I doubt it is a bad motor, but do not know how to force the program to spin the chuck. (Does anyone know what voltage this motor runs at? I can get my VOM and look for voltage.)
I would have thought that the program would be written to stop and show an error code if the motor was not spinning. When it broke my brand new bit, it was moving the bit from side to side and incrementally lowering it. Shouldn't the software had realized there was no rotation at the bit and stopped?

It was pretty miserable to find the $40 bit crack because the chuck was not spinning. Now I need to get another bit, but would rather find a source for the 1/16th and 1/8th bits without the holder. I've got perfectly good holders...
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bernie

PCW
03-30-2010, 05:42 PM
Bernie,

Cut motor uses 115 volts. If you have a volt meter that would be the best way to check it.

dbfletcher
03-30-2010, 05:50 PM
Hi All,

I finally got my (used) machine set up on the kitchen table and am unable to make sawdust! I snapped the brand new 1/8 bit in under a minute as I did not realize the bit was not turning when I hit enter.
I've looked thru the forum, but did not see anything that explained how to test the cut motor. I decided to just put in a blank 24x6 x1 pine board in and have it route the edge. It went thru what seemed to be the right sequence of events till it said check cut motor. (

Can anyone tell a newbie what is the matter or where to look. I'm already to pull the motor out, but was hoping there is a way to turn the motor on to see if it is working or not.

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,
Bernie

I would follow the wires from the right side cover switch back to the motor. Mine has banana type plugs by the motor side.. when i recieved my one machine, the plug had worked loose. The right side switch controls the motor.

Doug Fletcher

PCW
03-30-2010, 06:01 PM
Bernie

Though I would add a couple of things. The two smaller dia. wires that you see on the cut motor near the flex shaft are going to be the rpm sensor. The power to feed the motor comes off the power supply under the bottom cover then runs up through the cover opposite side of the keypad.

If you bench test the motor be careful because it has alot of torque when it starts up and best to use a vice to hold it.

sparksfarmer
03-30-2010, 07:38 PM
Thanks Everyone,

The previous owner deleted the door safety. I have already removed the clear cover as well as the entire upper plastic shroud. I verified that the door switch was "closed" all this time, and thus should not be the problem. I opened and closed that circuit while watching the display to make sure it registered with the processor.

Besides, I would "assume", (OR HOPE) that if you open the door, the axis motors would shut down as well as stop the rotation of the cut motor.

I have not tried jumping the motor yet, but since it has quick disconnects, that should be easy enough. If the motor turns, that would just prove that the motor is not bad, but then leaves me with the ac drive or the processor, not signaling the ac drive to work.
:confused:

I don't know which would be better to hope for, a bad motor, or something I can not test...

I have emailed the seller on ebay and am waiting his call, or phone number for me to call him.

Thanks,

Bernie

dbfletcher
03-30-2010, 07:50 PM
Thanks Everyone,

The previous owner deleted the door safety. I have already removed the clear cover as well as the entire upper plastic shroud. I verified that the door switch was "closed" all this time, and thus should not be the problem. I opened and closed that circuit while watching the display to make sure it registered with the processor.

Besides, I would "assume", (OR HOPE) that if you open the door, the axis motors would shut down as well as stop the rotation of the cut motor.

I have not tried jumping the motor yet, but since it has quick disconnects, that should be easy enough. If the motor turns, that would just prove that the motor is not bad, but then leaves me with the ac drive or the processor, not signaling the ac drive to work.
:confused:

I don't know which would be better to hope for, a bad motor, or something I can not test...

I have emailed the seller on ebay and am waiting his call, or phone number for me to call him.

Thanks,

Bernie

ok.. well going back to the "door"... there are TWO switches located on the cover (when it is installed).. the left one is the safety switch that causes the "close cover message" when it is not closed. The right hand one opens or closes the return path for the cut motor. I would still make sure they wires that would have been on the right side switch are correctly bypassed if the cover is removed.

Doug Fletcher

hray
03-30-2010, 09:24 PM
when i recived a new motor it did not want to start it may have recived
some ruff handeling checked the brusses and reseated them then iran just fine if that is the case it is an eazy fix

Digitalwoodshop
03-30-2010, 09:58 PM
It will come down to a few things....

1. The Right Side Cover Switch is not depressed and closed. This is the return side of the power to the cut motor.

2. One of the plugs has been unplugged at the back of the cut motor.

3. The Cut Motor Brushes are too short. 250 cut motor hours and up.... Brushes wear out...

4. The Under side of the machine, the X Termination Board, the C1 Capacitor is broken off.

5. The Computer has a problem....

Motor Wiring.... Black in from the X Termination Board to the Black Motor Wire.
White wire from the X Termination to EITHER wire of the Right Cover Switch
Return Wire from the Cover Switch to the White Wire of the Cut Motor.

Good Luck,

AL

sparksfarmer
03-31-2010, 09:10 AM
Hi All,

The previous owner had eliminated both safety's. The door switch has been cut out of the circuit and the two tiny white & black wires are twisted together and taped.

I'm leery of pulling the motor till I speak to the seller. I have written him both directly and thru eBay and am waiting his reply.

I did look at the capacitor as suggested and it appears to be soldered to the board.

The only thing I have done since I got this was to update to the latest software. I do not think that has anything to do with this as no one else is having this problem.

I'll keep you updated.
Thanks,

Bernie

dbfletcher
03-31-2010, 09:18 AM
Hi All,

The previous owner had eliminated both safety's. The door switch has been cut out of the circuit and the two tiny white & black wires are twisted together and taped.

I'm leery of pulling the motor till I speak to the seller. I have written him both directly and thru eBay and am waiting his reply.

I did look at the capacitor as suggested and it appears to be soldered to the board.

The only thing I have done since I got this was to update to the latest software. I do not think that has anything to do with this as no one else is having this problem.

I'll keep you updated.
Thanks,

Bernie

Have you double checked the "previous owners" bypass for the right side cover switch? I'm still leaning to the return path for the motor not being properly closed. Good luck!

Doug Fletcher

onetexasoldman
04-03-2010, 09:28 PM
I was having the same problem but it would run for about 4 mins and then stop. After reading this thread thought DAH just installed the dust collector from ringneck and guess I didn't cut the cover enough. And also checked the swith and blew some air in it and now seems to be working. Have a 9hr project hope this is the fix.
Thanks for all that help all us NEWBEES.
Larry

gumbo
04-05-2010, 04:26 PM
I was also in the midst of a carve when I broke the cutting bit and now I am getting the check cut motor. When I turn it bu hand it does count up but thats it. My powersuply only has about 40 hours on it my cut motor only has about 130 hours on it. Checked the wires and the switch even bypassed the switch and still nothing. I will turn it over ond take a look at the board. Not to sure what else it could be. Anyone with other suggestions?

Digitalwoodshop
04-05-2010, 07:23 PM
The cut motor not starting is going to be a few things....

First is to make up a test project on a short board with a carve region on it. I say do this as the Carve Bit is the least likely to snap.... Unlike the Cut Path Bit at $40.00 a POP..... Pop or SNAP....

This also gives the Cut Motor a reason to turn ON.....

So you load this small project on your card and load a board. After it asks for the Bit to be installed and you press ENTER the Cut Motor will spin up for a second then the bit starts it's Bit Flag Checks.

If the Cut Motor does NOT start I bet the Cut Motor Sensor is not sending the computer any pulses so you get a Check Cut Motor....


Things to CHECK....

The Cut Motor Right Side Switch. That right side switch is in the return path of the Cut Motor Power. It acts as a safety switch. A loose switch or loose screws holding the pivot rod for the cover.

Next is a pulled and loose plug on the wires going to the Cut Motor and the Cut Motor Right Switch.

Power comes in from the X Termination Board and Black Wire goes to black Wire of the Cut Motor. The White Wire goes through the right side Cut Motor Switch, either wire. The left over wire from the Switch goes to the White Cut Motor Wire.

The X Termination Board has a C1 Capacitor that can snap off easily due to QC Vibration.

And Last.. The Cut Motor Brushes might be too short.... Usually 230 hours and above... Dust in the motor and that can hang up the brushes.

It would be worth it to remove the Cut Motor and open the case.... Could be lots of dust inside the motor. Remember to take out the screw inside the muffler port.

Good Luck,

AL

gumbo
04-10-2010, 04:15 PM
Finaly got a chance to tear into the machine and opened up the cut motor. At first everything looked good a little dusty but fine. As I was putting it back together I noticed a loose wire (oh no) the wire was comming from one of the brushes but going nowhere. The conector that plugs into the winding was chared and broken. I guess that this is my problem. As you can see in the attached photo The terminal on the right good the one on the left bad. But what chould have caused this? There is only about 150hrs on the cut motor.

sparksfarmer
04-12-2010, 02:44 PM
Hi All, I am about to send this thing back to the seller. The thing with Ebay is, I do not get re-imbursed for my cost to ship it back. If it was a small item, that might not be bad, but at this things weight, I paid $85 to get it shipped to me.
It is like losing $85 of nothing.

Do I keep the thing and save the 85 to invest in it, or do I cut bait & run...

I have till tonight to send it back...

Bernie

gumbo
04-12-2010, 07:01 PM
Not too sure if its "the maching you bought" or just the machines in general. I just ordered a new cut motor and if it was too expensive I may have just cut my losses at this point. Seems that these machines are loaded with problems. I think that I have almost replaced every major part in the thing. With the exception of two motors. I am getting to the end of my rope with it aswell. I love the machine but I hate it also, if you know what I mean. I am really tired of spending money on it.