QC Removal

[chunk100479]

I have been trying to remove the QC Chuck but have been unable to do so. I bought the wrench and the removal tool. Used it no luck tried heat and it still won't move. Then the bit removal tool finally broke. I have tried everything in there directions and can't get it to budge. The directions also told me to try a screw driver ended up breaking 2 tips. Does anyone have an idea of what I can do to get it removed.
Thanks

[fwharris]

I have been trying to remove the QC Chuck but have been unable to do so. I bought the wrench and the removal tool. Used it no luck tried heat and it still won't move. Then the bit removal tool finally broke. I have tried everything in there directions and can't get it to budge. The directions also told me to try a screw driver ended up breaking 2 tips. Does anyone have an idea of what I can do to get it removed.
Thanks

How are you applying the heat? Some have reported success by using a soldering iron inserted up into the QC.

[eelamb]

I used a 1/2" rod 3" long as per the instructions, but instead of inserting it and heating the rod, I turned the top 5/8" down a little, then heated the tip of the rod and inserted it into the chuck. After about a minute I removed the rod, and the chuck came right off.

You can grind the rod instead of turning it down. The rod tip was turned down since once it was heated it would not fit inside the chuck. So try to insert it after heating and if it does not fit grind it some more. Does not take a lot of grinding.

[b.sumner47]

Have you been turning the chuck when heating ? Some of us have filed an allen key to fit. Good Luck. Capt Barry.

[Digitalwoodshop]

2 things... MORE heat and be sure you turn it in the correct direction.... Watching Ron's video will help too....

I like the soldering Iron trick.... I have used my Crack Torch (That I use making my Fire Tags).... A Cheap Radio Shack soldering Iron shoved up inside the QC.... Heating the Red Forever Locktite.

More HEAT.... Saying that.... I still have one that I gave up on..... a refurbished Z from LHR with what I believe is mounted with Forever Red. Broke 3 tips at the time and just switched the truck with another...

Good Luck,

AL

[brdad]

I had a hard job getting my QC off a few days ago. Once I convinced myself I was going to have to use heat and a fair amount of it and I didn't care about saving the QC, I first used a sharp pair of dikes to cut the outer plastic shield off the QC. Then I used an allen wrench to remove the post that the QC turns on. After some wiggling around the QC fell apart leaving only the inner section.

I felt being able to directly heat the threaded section of the QC section helped. I set a piece of sheet metal between the QC and the truck to protect the rubber belt and cranked it down so it would not come out. It only took a few seconds with a small torch and there was a flash when the loctite got hot enough. The QC nearly spun right off from there then I placed cold rag around the threads on the shaft to help keep it cool.

That's what worked for me, your mileage may vary.

[chunk100479]

Thanks all I am going to try the soldering iron trick. Hopefully that will get it hot enough to release. Ill let you all know how it works.

[will george]

... MORE heat and be sure you turn it in the correct direction.... Watching Ron's video will help too....

This will probably sound like a gripe, which it is really NOT. Only a comment from this old man.

Why not just state which direction is correct? Like stating: turn the removal tool clockwise or anti-clockwise while holding the assembly.

Sorry for my thoughts. I use to write service manuals for very large printing presses and the electronics that controlled them. I always found, from testing my written words with a group of students, weeded out all the mis-understandings. Even very good mechanics get confused sometimes if the job has never been done before. Especially when it came to orientation of the part. Is it right or left handed thread etc. These machines cost in the million doller range (and more). I mistake cost somebody a lot of money!

No, I do not have a ROC Chuck. I will get one when I have a need.

Sir, again.. No hate here.... Just a comment to somebody that has successfully performed this task.

Have a GREAT DAY!

[Digitalwoodshop]

No harm done..... It's just that I found I had been turning the Wrench the WRONG way one time.... Now I just look at my Hand Held Router and refresh my memory as to which way to turn it.... Either left handed or right handed... Short Term Memory Loss.... Or CRS....

Lefty Lucy Righty Tighty....

That is like the color code on Resistors....

There was a colorfull saying starting with Bad Boys........ and ending with Get Some Now.... Bad =1 or Black, Boys = 2 or Brown..... Get = Gold, Some = Silver, and Now = None as in color band for tollerance.

AL

[rjustice]

I know this has been posted several times, but for the record, if you are using the tools from CW-Parts.com (rjustice)... you will put one of the thin wrenches on the QC, and rest it on the shelf of the machine (where people are mounting the top side dust collector inserts)... have the wrench on the side towards the keypad. The wrench will hold itself in place... leaving you with both hands free to steady the upper wrench on the square too, aiding in giving you a more true twisting motion, rather than pushing the tool sideways...

You will then turn the small square tool that is inserted in the Top Hat counter clockwise (pushing it away from you if you are standing on the keypad side of the machine. This is a standard Right hand thread. So if you can imagine the spindle being the bolt, and the QC being the Nut, you are in effect unscrewing the spindle out of the QC...

Hope this makes sense....

You can see the proper way to place the flat wrench, and the proper way to turn the square tool by watching the Rock Chuck install video link, found below in my signature...

Happy Carving Guys!

Ron

[chunk100479]

Well I finally got it after I torched the hell out of it I was able to break it loose. The one thing that I will never do again is buy the crappy tools that carvewright sells to remove the head. I managed to break both the wrench and the square socket tool. But machine is up and carving again and thats all that matters. Thanks again for all the advise guys.

[Cabinetdesigner]

Well I finally got it after I torched the hell out of it I was able to break it loose. The one thing that I will never do again is buy the crappy tools that carvewright sells to remove the head. I managed to break both the wrench and the square socket tool. But machine is up and carving again and thats all that matters. Thanks again for all the advise guys.

I am having the same problem ive heated and heated, then broke the square removal tool. well I have ordered a new removal tool so when it gets in I will give it another shot. I think i will try what ask bud said and heat the rod and adapter in the oven. Im just really discouraged right now. I bugered up the top of the spindle where the flex shaft goes in , but I put the flex shaft back in and it appears to be gripping fine. I guesse if I cant get the qc off i could buy a new ztruck. I wish there was somewhere I could take it and have the chuck removed.

[rjustice]

I am having the same problem ive heated and heated, then broke the square removal tool. well I have ordered a new removal tool so when it gets in I will give it another shot. I think i will try what ask bud said and heat the rod and adapter in the oven. Im just really discouraged right now. I bugered up the top of the spindle where the flex shaft goes in , but I put the flex shaft back in and it appears to be gripping fine. I guesse if I cant get the qc off i could buy a new ztruck. I wish there was somewhere I could take it and have the chuck removed.

If you send me your truck i can change it out for you... I have done dozens of them. Depending on how much damage on the square hole though, could lead to replacing the spindle. You can email me or PM me if you wish..

Thanks,

Ron

[Cabinetdesigner]

If you send me your truck i can change it out for you... I have done dozens of them. Depending on how much damage on the square hole though, could lead to replacing the spindle. You can email me or PM me if you wish..

Thanks,

Ron

did you get my PM?

[rjustice]

did you get my PM?

Got it !

Thanks,

Ron

[Cabinetdesigner]

Got it !

Thanks,

Ron

Im starting to get my excitment back. I can hardly wait to start carving with the rock. P.S. I sent you anther PM hope im not driving you crazy:rolleyes:

[rjustice]

Im starting to get my excitment back. I can hardly wait to start carving with the rock. P.S. I sent you anther PM hope im not driving you crazy:rolleyes:

Not at all!

Happy Carving!

Ron

[Cabinetdesigner]

well I finally got my rock chuck on after breaking one tool (which was my fault) My second tool got misrouted in the mail (post offices fault). The second time I attempted to get the qc off it came off so easy. Then I put the rock on and then realized I had the top of the rock on upside down. Dont ask me how but in the process of removing the rock I broke the second bit. All I can figure it was fixin to break when I was finishing up the qc removal. Luckly I was able to finish up with a square tip screw driver. I thought I would wait until the weekend to test the rock , It has been a rough week. I have learned one thing about working on this machine , make sure im in the right state of mind. Thanks ron I think I am going to love it.

[rjustice]

Cabinetdesigner,
Unless the threads on the spindle still had a lot of loctite residue left in them the first piece that you screw on (the Locking collar) should go on quite easily. I recommend scraping the thread out with the tip of an awl, or perhaps a drywall screw as you turn the spindle. Then follow that up with a wire brushing of the threads.

When you have the spindle threads cleaned out, the Locking Collar should screw up onto the spindle (big end up) smoothly. You will feel it start to snug with about 1/16-1/8 gap between the bearing and face of the Locking Collar. Lightly snug it to this point. You dont want to get this overly tight, as it will make no difference in the final tightness of the chuck as an assembly. In fact over tightening it will make it harder to get the bit adapter into the spindle nose.

You will then screw the Bit adapter up into the Locking collar, and you will feel it start to snug up as it starts leading up into the spindle nose. It will eventually bottom out leaving a small gap between the Bit adapter and the Locking Collar. When you use the 2 flat wrenches to snug them up, it is at that point it gives a "Jam Nut" effect, and will not come loose. You dont really have to reef on it either. Just a good firm feel. If you wanted a torque spec, i would say about 10-15 ft lbs. is all that it takes.

Hope this helps... Brighter days are ahead!

Happy Carving!

Ron

[Cabinetdesigner]

Cabinetdesigner,
Unless the threads on the spindle still had a lot of loctite residue left in them the first piece that you screw on (the Locking collar) should go on quite easily. I recommend scraping the thread out with the tip of an awl, or perhaps a drywall screw as you turn the spindle. Then follow that up with a wire brushing of the threads.

When you have the spindle threads cleaned out, the Locking Collar should screw up onto the spindle (big end up) smoothly. You will feel it start to snug with about 1/16-1/8 gap between the bearing and face of the Locking Collar. Lightly snug it to this point. You dont want to get this overly tight, as it will make no difference in the final tightness of the chuck as an assembly. In fact over tightening it will make it harder to get the bit adapter into the spindle nose.

You will then screw the Bit adapter up into the Locking collar, and you will feel it start to snug up as it starts leading up into the spindle nose. It will eventually bottom out leaving a small gap between the Bit adapter and the Locking Collar. When you use the 2 flat wrenches to snug them up, it is at that point it gives a "Jam Nut" effect, and will not come loose. You dont really have to reef on it either. Just a good firm feel. If you wanted a torque spec, i would say about 10-15 ft lbs. is all that it takes.

Hope this helps... Brighter days are ahead!

Happy Carving!

Ron

Ron
I took the rock off again gave the theads of the spindle a good cleaning. The chuck went on real easy. The cut motor would not come on but turned out to be a disconnected wire ( just went right along with the week I had ) I am amazed on how muck quiter the machine runs now. I am so excited to be carving again and brighter days are ahead. Maybe I will get a full nights sleep tonight. thanks again

[rjustice]

Thats great news!....

Happy Carving,

Ron

[Billions]

Will, I totally agree - it's such a simple thing to mention - which direction to turn the thing to tighten or loosen it. Especially in this field, when opposite-threading can and does get used. I think that should be added to Ron's video, as when Ron pops the thing loose, it's with such a quick snapping motion, you can't entirely be sure which direction he snapped it towards to loosen it. It's an excellent tutorial, I think it's one of those things that's been overlooked, as it's very obvious to him, but to us out here it's such a key part of removing the QC chuck in the first place. Maybe he can add some type over the video to mention that.

Yes, I figured it out by studying the threading (standard "Lefty-loosey, Righty-tighty") but it was not immediately obvious to me.

Fortunately for me, mine came off relatively easily, without the need for heat or too much effort. I removed my QC chuck last night and getting away from that QuickChange chuck is something I've been wanting to do for a long time. I'm running a carve now and it's so much more solid-sounding, smoother. I have a second machine and I might try the Carvetight on that one.

For many, the QC chuck has probably been great, but personally, I love putting that QC chuck in my past, as I had so many problems on my long carves, ran through so many QC collets.

So many great updates and hardware changes... It's like a new renaissance of CarveWrighting right now!

[LonC]

Ron, I can't seem to get my old QC off. If I send my truck to you what do you charge to do the labor? Where do I send it?
Missouri

[henry1]

Ron, I can't seem to get my old QC off. If I send my truck to you what do you charge to do the labor? Where do I send it?
Missouri
I doult hes still around that was in 2010 ,it been a while we haven't seen him

[henry1]

you have a private message LonC

[Digitalwoodshop]

The trick is to get enough heat to the right place... Take a 1/2 inch empty QC Bit Holder and go to Radio Shack if you can find one, they were closing stores... or a hobby store or hardware store... Find a electric Soldering Iron that will fit inside the 1/2 inch QC. That lets you apply the heat to the area that needs it.... Or a bigger one up the QC hole.... That sounds just wrong....

In the event you decide to abandon the Rock Chuck idea and buy a Carve Tite TRUCK... I am interested in buying old Rock Chucks and rock parts and wrenches.

I had one SO tight, I snapped off 4 of Ron's Hardened Drive Tips even with the soldering iron... Finally gave up... Sometimes the RED Forever Lock tite is really forever...

Good Luck,

AL

[bergerud]

I think it is easier in those tight cases to just pull the spindle. See: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?18052-Spindle-Puller&p=152135#post152135

When I think of all the trouble we had breaking tools and burning things, it was dumb.

[LonC]

Last year I bought a used machine. It came with a bad QC chuck but the seller included a new, uninstalled QC chuck. So, I read all of the suggestions to get the old one off. First I used a small torch to heat it. No luck so I tried again. No luck. I then purchased a cheap soldering iron and went that route with 25 minutes of heating. No luck. So it tried 1 hour. No luck. I them removed the truck and tried again. No luck. I gave up and took the truck to a local machine shop. They were intrigued with the problem. They tried heat with a torch. No luck. SO they took it to a hand press and pressed the spindle out of the bearings (no damage to bearings). They then reapplied heat. No luck. They were concerned with possible damage to the spindle so they took it to a machine that had interchangeable heads with different sized holes in each head and selected one. They put the head with the spindle into their machine which compressed the head to the spindle, heated it again and it finally broke loose. Whew! It took them about 40 minutes. Other than getting the QC off the best thing was that there was NO CHARGE! Nice guys..... My advice? If it doesn't come off easily then find a machine shop, even if they charge for the service.

[SteveNelson46]

Here's what I did.

Purchase a short piece of 1/2" diameter rod from Home Depot and cut off a piece about 4" long.
File off any burrs on one end so it will slide into the QC easily
While holding one end with a pair of pliers, heat it up with a propane torch to as hot as possible.
Immediately insert it in the "QC hole" (like Al said, that just sounds wrong LOL).
Leave it in for about 3 minutes.
Remove it and repeat the process.
As quickly as possible, try to unscrew it using the removal tool
You may have to repeat the process
If it still doesn't work, insert the short rod into the QC as far as it will go and heat the protruding end with the propane torch.
It sounds awkward but it worked for me.