carving with a sled

[olkarch]

I am wanting to carve on a disk sliced from a tree trunk. I have tried using a sled to hold the project. When starting the project the machine measures the sled and asks whether I want to scale to size or change boards, and the answer is no to both, but that's not a choice.

Is there a way to jog to where I want to carve, or should I tell the machine that the board I am using is actually the size of the sled, and design the carved part small to fit in the center?

Olin

[Dan-Woodman]

Olin
You should have sides on the sled for the rollers to ride on, then if your disc is thinner than your rails, be sure to index the bit to your disc. When it starts to touch down on your sled push stop and follow promps to move bit to disc. Then it will index off your disc.
Start your designer with the size of the sled and put a circle or square or whatever where your disc is.
later Daniel

[cnsranch]

Olin - Dan's right on.

Make sure your sled's got the extra 3.5" on each end (longer than the piece you're going to carve on) (LG, don't confuse him :rolleyes:) ideally, the sled's sides are the same height as the thickness of the "log".

I make Designer's board exactly the same size as the sled, and draw an oval, or circle, approximately the same size as the log, in EXACTLY the same place it will be attached to the sled (I just use a few drops of hot glue on the backside of the log). That way, your carve will end up where you want it on the log (most are narrower at the top or bottom, so you have to account for that), and you'll be able to "tuck" a part of the carve right into a larger, or narrower, part of the log (see attached). With Designer's measurements the same size as the sled, when you load it in the machine, tell the machine NOT to stay under the rollers, since you know it will, anyway. ANY difference in Designer's board, and the board the machine measures (and it DOES account for the 3.5", depending on how you answer it's questions) and you will have the re-scaling problem, something you DO NOT want.

I tend to go a little over-board on masking tape (you're welcome, AW) - I don't want to risk a false measurement, so I tape over the open areas to avoid that.

Works great, and folks will think you're a real artist.

Good luck.

[CarverJerry]

Hey Jerry, your work looks really great. I understand what you are telling Olin and it makes perfect sence. I do have one question, your log piece you are using, how long did you let it age (dry) before you carved it? I've got a maple tree getting cut down (before it falls down) next week and I'm going to have lots of logs of all sizes, sure would like to do something like you did. thanks...

carverjerry

[olkarch]

Thanks to all of you. I hope to get to the project today. I'll post a photo when it's done. (If it fails, I may have to photoshop it.)

The slice I have is a straight across 90 degree cut, so not quite as strong as an angled cut would be. It's also cedar, so I can only hope for the best. It had dried I think for two years. It's for a local non-profit benefit.

Olin

[cnsranch]

how long did you let it age (dry) before you carved it?

Honestly, I have a few pieces that have been sitting around for quite a while that I use - haven't yet cut my own.

I do know that wood has to age approx. 1 year per inch thickness when preparing for furniture, etc., but my guess is that a slab like that will dry much quicker due to the surface area that's exposed.

I have a lead on some walnut that I intend to cut like that - so I'm as interested as you in a good answer - I'm sure we'll get some input shortly.

My real concern is the slab warping as it dries.

Anyone?

[Kenm810]

Hi Jerry,

This is a product I've used a few times with good results


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.preservation-solutions.com/reviews/americanwoodworkerqa.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.preservation-solutions.com/woodstabilizerpreventscracks.php&usg=__icMXs81bOVfI4_G-QTnxwo1wP0k=&h=420&w=300&sz=21&hl=en&start=385&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=sQ5Bt3KlNae2uM:&tbnh=125&tbnw=89&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsealing%2Bwood%2Bslabs%26start%3D378% 26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1T4ADBF_enUS32 2US323%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=944-769&LARGEVIEW=ON

[spalted]

The time of year it is cut will affect how well the bark stays on also.

If you want to retain the bark it's best to cut it when the sap is down. If you want to peel it cut it in June or July (around here anyway).

I have a piece of Ash slab running in right now. It was cut in the winter and kiln dried. They stayed pretty flat.

[liquidguitars]

I tend to go a little over-board on masking tape (you're welcome, AW) - I don't want to risk a false measurement, so I tape over the open areas to avoid that.

Sound good but.. no need to use tape on the top of your sled if you make your tails 4" wide then load the sled offset and not centered directly under the boadsensor this save time and $$$ you will never get a measurement error due to the void your currently taping over.:mrgreen: it just not needed.

LG

[mostlycold]

My real concern is the slab warping as it dries.

Anyone?

Another option to $80 gal chemical solutions is simply go to Costco, buy a 5 gal pail of Kirkland Dishwashing liquid. Soak your green slab in it for 4-5 hours in a 50/50 mix of water to liquid soap (this ratio works, so messing with it can cause other problems). Take your wood out let it drain, wipe it off, and carve away. The CW will also like this, as the soap residue left in the wood will not only stabilize it but also acts as a lubricant on your bit. Turners have been treating green wood like this for years, treat, rough a bowl, and let it sit for 8 months - bowl rarely cracks or moves (again this is with green wood). This is an effective way to stabilize green wood on the cheap.

Feel free to Google - stabilize wood with dishwashing soap - you'll find a bunch of articles on the subject.

[dbfletcher]

Another option to $80 gal chemical solutions is simply go to Costco, buy a 5 gal pail of Kirkland Dishwashing liquid. Soak your green slab in it for 4-5 hours in a 50/50 mix of water to liquid soap (this ratio works, so messing with it can cause other problems). Take your wood out let it drain, wipe it off, and carve away. The CW will also like this, as the soap residue left in the wood will not only stabilize it but also acts as a lubricant on your bit. Turners have been treating green wood like this for years, treat, rough a bowl, and let it sit for 8 months - bowl rarely cracks or moves (again this is with green wood). This is an effective way to stabilize green wood on the cheap.

Feel free to Google - stabilize wood with dishwashing soap - you'll find a bunch of articles on the subject.

well.. if it is on the INTERNET.. it must be true! j/k.

I love ideas tha are effective and save money. I'm definately gonna read more about this and try it out when the opportunity presents itself.

Doug Fletcher

[olkarch]

As usual, I have another roadblock. I had to tape the sled like cnsranch does in order to get the machine to see the ends of the sled. Then I followed Dan-Woodman's instructions to jog to the wood to index the bit.

Now the problem is that it checks the depth at both sides, then moves to the wood and checks the wood three times, then says to put in the bit, which is already there. When I press enter, it starts back to where it checks depths and the wood again, then says to put in the bit, etc. ad infinitum.

I thought perhaps since the end grain of the wood might not measure identically each time I would use some masking tape to even it out, but it still went into the same loop.

Any suggestions?
Olin

[spalted]

Another option to $80 gal chemical solutions is simply go to Costco, buy a 5 gal pail of Kirkland Dishwashing liquid. Soak your green slab in it for 4-5 hours in a 50/50 mix of water to liquid soap (this ratio works, so messing with it can cause other problems). Take your wood out let it drain, wipe it off, and carve away. The CW will also like this, as the soap residue left in the wood will not only stabilize it but also acts as a lubricant on your bit. Turners have been treating green wood like this for years, treat, rough a bowl, and let it sit for 8 months - bowl rarely cracks or moves (again this is with green wood). This is an effective way to stabilize green wood on the cheap.

Feel free to Google - stabilize wood with dishwashing soap - you'll find a bunch of articles on the subject.


I have heard of this before, also using antifreeze.

I always assumed it was an "urban legend" of sorts.

PEG or polyethylene glycol 2000 is used to stabilize green or wet wood. Soap and antifreeze contain glycol, same thing right? Nope.

That is how I figured it got started,but I never tried soap so it may work.

[cnsranch]

Olin - are the sides of your sled the same height as teh wood you're indexing?

If not, that's likely why you're getting the dreaded "Load Bit" loop.

[liquidguitars]

As usual, I have another roadblock. I had to tape the sled like cnsranch does in order to get the machine to see the ends of the sled. Then I followed Dan-Woodman's instructions to jog to the wood to index the bit.

Now the problem is that it checks the depth at both sides, then moves to the wood and checks the wood three times, then says to put in the bit, which is already there. When I press enter, it starts back to where it checks depths and the wood again, then says to put in the bit, etc. ad infinitum.

I thought perhaps since the end grain of the wood might not measure identically each time I would use some masking tape to even it out, but it still went into the same loop.

Any suggestions?
Olin

Olin, you can bypass this issue when you make 4" tails on your sled and load the sled off center placing the tail under the board sensor, no tape is needed on the top.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=14648

[DocWheeler]

Olin,

These repeated messages (load bit) come from the bit not touching the swing-out bit plate. Is the sled in the way?

[olkarch]

Finally, that picky machine is running. I used yards of tape to show it where the end of the sled is, shimmed the wood up to the height of the sled rails and redesigned the project for about the sixth time, telling it the wood was the same thickness as the depth at the rails, jogged it to position, and it's finally running. Keep your fingers crossed.

Olin

[olkarch]

Olin,

These repeated messages (load bit) come from the bit not touching the swing-out bit plate. Is the sled in the way?

Actually the swing-out plate was fine. It touched every time. My biggest suspicion is that the machine didn't like the discrepancy between the virtual board thickness and the actual board (sled) thickness.

It just won't let me get away with anything.

Olin

[olkarch]

It worked!

I chose the slab for its flaws, cracks, and sticks.

I promised a photo, and I didn't even have to fake it.

Olin

[Kenm810]

Olin,

Nice job, Great wood slab choice, Well Done http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon14.gif
Thanks for the Photo

[liquidguitars]

I used yards of tape to show it where the end of the sled is,

you got it! just keep using that tape all day long.

LG

[CarverJerry]

Nice job Olkarch, thanks for starting this thread, I have learned so much from all suggestions, trial and errors. And now I can give it a try myself. I also like the ideas found on the net about using dishwashing liquids for treating the green wood. Many thanks to our extended family.

[cnsranch]

Olin - when will you carve Stills and Nash?:p

Glad it worked out for you.

[spalted]

Olin - when will you carve Stills and Nash?:p

Glad it worked out for you.

Really cool carve Olin, but I have to admit cns's comment is funny! or is it really "CSN" and maybe Y?.....things that make you go mmmmmmm.

[cnsranch]

Really cool carve Olin, but I have to admit cns's comment is funny! or is it really "CSN" and maybe Y?.....things that make you go mmmmmmm.

Here's the inside scoop -

We live on a few acres south of town - been there now three years.

When we first went to look at the property, I asked my wife what she thought of the place - her answer?

"It's cooler n' sh**".

Hence, CNS Ranch.

And that's the rest of the story:rolleyes:

[rcdages]

Hello cnsranch,

My question in regards to your complete instruction on disk sliced logis.

When the machine ask were to place carving-dose one enter center of the board or do you Jog to a spot on the sliced log-if so would you enlighten me on how I need to jog to area were the carving is to take place.

I have used Jog to touch the surface of the board that I am carving on.

Yet have not used Jog for anything else.

Looking forward to your instruction.

Thank you,
Robert
rcdages