M1911 Handgun test

[brdad]

I found the pattern files for the left and right sides of this gun here in the forums and wondered how well it'd carve if I did each side from 3/4 maple stock and glued them together. Somehow like a dummy I carved it in normal mode so it took a lot of finishing! But, it feels good in the hands and looks good on my shelf so I am glad I did it for the experience.

[Azbear]

I carved one like this in the past. Carve front and rear, then glued together. My clamps let the 2 halves slip a bit, but it still looks cool.

[DocWheeler]

brdad,

Looks very nice, good detail, I like it.

[liquidguitars]

I found the pattern files for the left and right sides of this gun here in the forums and wondered how well it'd carve if I did each side from 3/4 maple stock and glued them together. Somehow like a dummy I carved it in normal mode so it took a lot of finishing! But, it feels good in the hands and looks good on my shelf so I am glad I did it for the experience.

Nice work!

LG

[geekviking]

came out awesome!!!!!!!!!
Would you mind posting the pattern?

[JMD]

brdad,
I looked all over the forum and couldn't find the pattern for the 1911. Can you tell me where you got it or post the pattern? I would like to make one for myself.
Thank you,
John

[RayTrek]

Great job on the detail and finishing, thanks for sharing.
Ray

[brdad]

I have had two other requests as well but can't seem to find them now!
However, I do have the MPC at home, and I will post it when I get back later this afternoon.

I posted a while back in the want list that it'd be great if there was a way to mark the author of these files, it'd help a lot in these cases!

[cnsranch]

JMD - this help?

[brdad]

I carved one like this in the past. Carve front and rear, then glued together. My clamps let the 2 halves slip a bit, but it still looks cool.

I had that problem as well, it took a bit of adjusting. A few days later, something came to me - I wonder if a person was to put just a couple grains of sand in between the pieces if they would give the wood enough traction to bite? Has anyone else tried anything like this or have other ideas?

[cnsranch]

Rather than clamping them, how 'bout using masking tape to hold them together while they dry?

You're welcome, AW (happens every time it's mentioned)

[liquidguitars]

I had that problem as well, it took a bit of adjusting. A few days later, something came to me - I wonder if a person was to put just a couple grains of sand in between the pieces if they would give the wood enough traction to bite? Has anyone else tried anything like this or have other ideas?

I use a razor blade to scribe small lines on the matting surfaces when needed and blue tape or clamps..

LG

[brdad]

Here is the MPC file. Maybe someone knows who owns each half and can give credit where it us due. The generosity of everyone here is great, thanks to all who contribute.

[fwharris]

I had that problem as well, it took a bit of adjusting. A few days later, something came to me - I wonder if a person was to put just a couple grains of sand in between the pieces if they would give the wood enough traction to bite? Has anyone else tried anything like this or have other ideas?

Let the glue set up some (get tacky) before putting them together and do not put a lot of glue on the pieces. A fine thin layer of quick setting glue makes it a little easier to keep them from shifting..

[Kenm810]

On small projects like that, I often use Painters Tape,
like LG mentioned plus a few Rubber Bands
to hold the two carved halves lined up and together.

Thanks for sharing your Photos and the Mpc File

[eelamb]

Another method is to tap in a few small brads, cut them almost flush, then glue and clamp.

[locovalley]

I had that problem as well, it took a bit of adjusting. A few days later, something came to me - I wonder if a person was to put just a couple grains of sand in between the pieces if they would give the wood enough traction to bite? Has anyone else tried anything like this or have other ideas?

Using a few grains of sand for glue-ups works really well! I have a machine called a "Ring Master" that attaches to my lathe and cuts angled rings which are glued together to make bowls and other hollow vessels. The walls of the rings are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick and the mating surfaces are narrow. The wooden rings are also flexible so glue-up can be problematic. I apply glue to the mating surfaces and then rub 180 grit sandpaper, face-to-face, over the glued surface, depositing a few grains of sand in the glue, assemble the parts and clamp. I almost never have problems with the parts shifting during the clamping process. Hope this helps someone.

Joseph

[William Blankenship]

I found the pattern files for the left and right sides of this gun here in the forums and wondered how well it'd carve if I did each side from 3/4 maple stock and glued them together. Somehow like a dummy I carved it in normal mode so it took a lot of finishing! But, it feels good in the hands and looks good on my shelf so I am glad I did it for the experience.

That really turned out well. Thanks for sharing this.

I, too, would like to add my thanks for whomever developed this pattern. It is a nice one.

Bill...

[William Blankenship]

Using a few grains of sand for glue-ups works really well! I have a machine called a "Ring Master" that attaches to my lathe and cuts angled rings which are glued together to make bowls and other hollow vessels. The walls of the rings are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick and the mating surfaces are narrow. The wooden rings are also flexible so glue-up can be problematic. I apply glue to the mating surfaces and then rub 180 grit sandpaper, face-to-face, over the glued surface, depositing a few grains of sand in the glue, assemble the parts and clamp. I almost never have problems with the parts shifting during the clamping process. Hope this helps someone.

Joseph

Joseph,
Thanks for sharing this tip. I just bought a used Ringmaster and have made two bowls. Each of them shifted during glue up. I'm going to try this on my third bowl.

Bill....