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View Full Version : QC chuck good one or bad one,how will I know?



spalted
03-10-2010, 04:29 PM
I'm still waiting for my new machine to arrive, so I have never ran one yet.

My question is: How do I know if my QC chuck is a good one or a bad one?

I have heard nothing but good about the Rock Chuck, but after buying the machine, probe, software,and reconfiguring my dust collector system, I really don't want to spend more money right now if I don't have to.

From all that I have read here it would seem some have had good luck with the stock QC chuck, I'm hoping I can join that little group. But I have no way of knowing if I'm hanging out with the cool kids or not.

I have a feeling I will probably order a Rock chuck at some point, but I was hoping to put it off if I can.

Could anyone offer me a few tell-tail signs that my Chuck is good or bad?

I have never seen a machine run, so I have nothing to compare mine against.

Thanks

cnsranch
03-10-2010, 04:40 PM
Keep your QC clean (blow it out with compressed air), as well as the adapters (they tend to build up packed sawdust at the set screws), use a mirror to make sure the red lines match up when inserting the bit, if the bit has any play in it after inserting it, you've got it wrong.

When changing bits, and after finishing a carve, "snap" the adapter numerous times, until no more sawdust falls out of the QC.

Double check and make sure your adapters have blue locktite on the setscrews (you'll know if you take an allen wrench to the screw - if it won't budge with a LITTLE pressure, you're ok). If they aren't locked in, use BLUE locktite on them and reset them.

I've broken a couple cutting bits, one due to the set screws coming loose, the other with a much older version of the software.

Your adapter will show a little wear as you use it, what I mean is that the pretty blue/black finish will begin to wear off, and that's ok. If it starts to have dimples, or "BB" marks on it, the QC is trashed, and so is the adapter.

So far as I can tell, you'll either get a good QC, or a bad QC, or, in my opinion, most likely, a good QC that you don't care for.

I'm still on my original QC, but if it ever shells out, RJ will likely be the first to know.

Welcome to the madness:mrgreen:

www.go3d.us
03-10-2010, 05:01 PM
I'm ok with my QC, just need to oil it once in awhile.

rjustice
03-10-2010, 05:47 PM
Hi spalted,
Welcome to the group! Something else to consider when you evaluate the quality of your QC, is the amount of vibration you have. There are a lot of problems that can be avoided by reducing the vibration early on... If you check out the crank handle, it seems to be a good indicator of the amount of vibration you have. If you watch the video in my link below that shows the Rock Chuck in action, the video pans over to the crank. Notice how steady the ball is on the crank... Before I changed over to the Rock Chuck, the ball on my machine (and several others that i have changed out) shook pretty bad. Many shake so much that if the crank is left in the upward position when you stop cranking, the handle would fall down during carving. I have had this comment emailed to me many times. This vibration is caused by the imbalance, of the chuck, and the runout of the tool. The more the tool runs out of true center when it rotates, the more centrifugal force exerted, and the more vibration you have. This is hard on the spindle bearings as it applies more side load on them. The side load causes more friction, which causes heat, makes the flex shaft work harder, as well as the motor turning the flex shaft... The vibration is also hard on the micro switches on the cover, the power supply solder connections etc... severe vibration and electronics are generally not a good match..

I hope that you do have a good QC, but if you don't, i would sincerely appreciate your interest in the Rock Chuck System!

Happy Carving!

Ron

spalted
03-10-2010, 06:18 PM
Thanks for all the info everyone. I really appreciate it.

Ron,
Thanks for reminding me about the video. I have watched it. That is a perfect indicator.

I will probably order the Rock Chuck at some point. I really like the Eliminator chucks, and I'm sure I would like the Rock as well.

If I need to I will order it sooner, if I have vibration issues.

I had planned on measuring the run out of the stock chuck, but I still wouldn't know for sure if it was an acceptable amount.

Thanks again,now if I only had my machine.

mark1945
03-10-2010, 06:50 PM
There is also now another chuck available to replace the QC.I have been testing 1 for several months now.it is the Muscle Chuck from Derosa Engineering. John has several made up and anyone who is interested can contact me and I can give you his address and phone #.They are going for 99.00 require no special tools to change and have a new type of holding for the bit which does not gouge the adapters when tightened.

Digitalwoodshop
03-10-2010, 06:54 PM
There is also now another chuck available to replace the QC.I have been testing 1 for several months now.it is the Muscle Chuck from Derosa Engineering. John has several made up and anyone who is interested can contact me and I can give you his address and phone #.They are going for 99.00 require no special tools to change and have a new type of holding for the bit which does not gouge the adapters when tightened.

How about posting a picture?

AL

Digitalwoodshop
03-10-2010, 06:57 PM
Thanks for all the info everyone. I really appreciate it.

Ron,
Thanks for reminding me about the video. I have watched it. That is a perfect indicator.

I will probably order the Rock Chuck at some point. I really like the Eliminator chucks, and I'm sure I would like the Rock as well.

If I need to I will order it sooner, if I have vibration issues.

I had planned on measuring the run out of the stock chuck, but I still wouldn't know for sure if it was an acceptable amount.

Thanks again,now if I only had my machine.


Did the Eliminator Chuck come out in a CW Version.... Last I knew they were not interested in putting up the money to make them unless they could have guaranteed sales....

AL

mark1945
03-10-2010, 07:45 PM
I will pop it off my machine tomorrow and get pic of it .No its not from Eliminator chuck.He still has not come up with anything.This 1 works almost the same way, just has an improved locking system it grips the entire bit does not have a wedge to just hold the bit on one side .I have 2 of the Eliminators on my oldest machines and this one is quieter and smoother than they are.

spalted
03-10-2010, 07:54 PM
Did the Eliminator Chuck come out in a CW Version.... Last I knew they were not interested in putting up the money to make them unless they could have guaranteed sales....

AL

I had an eliminator chuck on a router table before I bought my shaper, and I liked it. Not on a CW

will george
03-10-2010, 09:14 PM
I have never seen a machine run, so I have nothing to compare mine against.

I got mine sometime back. Maybe I am just LUCKY.. But then again, I HAVE NEVER won the BIG or LITTLE Illinois Lotto prize.... My machine works great with PROPEAR WOOD TO CARVE... Yes, I have broken one cut-off bit....
I have only had minor problems. I usede mine to make two Chinese style canopy beds with many carvings. V text and more than a few Dragons and trim..

But then again I am a old woodworker and a OLD Army Tank Recovery Mechanic....

hess
03-11-2010, 12:28 AM
There is also now another chuck available to replace the QC.I have been testing 1 for several months now.it is the Muscle Chuck from Derosa Engineering. John has several made up and anyone who is interested can contact me and I can give you his address and phone #.They are going for 99.00 require no special tools to change and have a new type of holding for the bit which does not gouge the adapters when tightened.
I have just with in the last week been able to open the shop for all the mud and rain and have placed one of Derosas chucks onthe new unit. it is much likt the rock reduces vibes and noise cut clear much better that the QC
I like petty much all of it the lock works well. I did have to get some of the rock sleves to fit it but looks like there may b another player in town.

make it clear here this is not called the Eliminator think there was some break there. Derosas is very well versed on our problem maybe this will br the one lhr adds to the line up
which ever you use use one and get that pos qc out of here

mark1945
03-11-2010, 01:27 PM
Here are the pics of the Muscle Chuck.

brdad
03-11-2010, 02:17 PM
I am going to be ordering one of the better chucks within a week if all goes well. I have more play than I am comfortable with in my QC now, at least 1/32 inch. Oddly enough, I don't have much vibration in my machine, but it is louder than it used to be.

Anyway, this Muscle Chuck does look appealing, but if I have to get sleeves elsewhere and probably would need the wrenches to remove my QC, the Rock Chuck seems as appealing if not more. Not to mention the Rock Chuck is guaranteed and the contact person is a regular to these forums and a regular user of the CW.

Looking at them, the advantage I see that the Muscle Chuck may have over the Rock Chuck is that it is one piece. That may or may not make a difference, but less parts is usually better. Is there a benefit to the Rock Chuck being two piece?

mark1945
03-11-2010, 02:50 PM
John also has sleeves to use different bits.you dont have to get them from other sources.

DocWheeler
03-11-2010, 02:51 PM
I like the "shortness" of the Muscle chuck, but it looks to have the same out-of-balance problems as the standard QC.

I made some ROUGH comparisons of QCs and the Rock. With a regular QC, I can put my cheek-bone against the machine (top corner near post) with little discomfort. With a balanced QC or the Rock, I can put a tooth against the machine, something I would not do with the standard QC.

Admittedly a strange test, but one that I think everyone can understand easily.

mark1945
03-11-2010, 03:11 PM
I just talked to John and the muscle chuck is guarenteed.he said if for any reason send it back for full refund.

brdad
03-11-2010, 03:15 PM
Hmm, and I thought the standard test was to lick the handle... :D

Doc, does your out of balance opinion come from looking at the design or reports from users or actual use? It would seem with the Muscle chuck being shorter, it could handle a bit more imbalance than a longer unit would.

Good to hear that the Muscle chuck is guaranteed as well and that sleeves are available. What's not so good is it makes the decision harder.

mark1945
03-11-2010, 03:17 PM
Doc
I dont know what makes you think that the chuck would have a balance problem.I just tried your test and my tooth said it passed 100 %.no discomfort at all.I wouldnt even think about trying that with a QC.If you look at middle picture you can see its been counter drilled to ofset weight of screw.

brdad
03-11-2010, 03:29 PM
Mark, do you have prices for the sleeves?

spalted
03-11-2010, 03:48 PM
I like the "shortness" of the Muscle chuck, but it looks to have the same out-of-balance problems as the standard QC.

I made some ROUGH comparisons of QCs and the Rock. With a regular QC, I can put my cheek-bone against the machine (top corner near post) with little discomfort. With a balanced QC or the Rock, I can put a tooth against the machine, something I would not do with the standard QC.

Admittedly a strange test, but one that I think everyone can understand easily.


Doc,

I think you should write a "Tooth Test" article for next months Tips & Tricks Column.

I'm learning something new everyday.:mrgreen:

DocWheeler
03-11-2010, 04:47 PM
Mark,

Sorry for not being present, I was trying to decide on a door design.

I noticed the marks on the backside but they seemed not to be directly across from the large bolt-head. I didn't think that was a "balance" adaptation, sorry I missed that.

If it is truly balanced, you might have a good thing going. I have no experience with the Muscle chuck, but I am familiar with Ron's workmanship on the Rock.

I'm glad you recognized my meaning about whether or not one would venture to put there teeth against the side of a top corner while an unbalanced QC was carving. It seems to be less subjective than a statement that it "has less vibration". Note of explanation: From my normal sitting position, that method of testing was just simple!

BrDad,

I have had several standard QCs, I now have a CC with a balanced QC and another CC with a Rock chuck. The testing was done on all chucks.

TIMCOSBY
03-11-2010, 09:41 PM
at full depth if you have a badly unbalanced chuck the flex shaft will be dancing all over the place. that was my experience with my second machine that was returned.

roughcut
03-12-2010, 06:37 AM
I like the "shortness" of the Muscle chuck, but it looks to have the same out-of-balance problems as the standard QC.

I made some ROUGH comparisons of QCs and the Rock. With a regular QC, I can put my cheek-bone against the machine (top corner near post) with little discomfort. With a balanced QC or the Rock, I can put a tooth against the machine, something I would not do with the standard QC.

Admittedly a strange test, but one that I think everyone can understand easily.

which hand should I hold my teeth in.

mtylerfl
03-12-2010, 07:30 AM
which hand should I hold my teeth in.

Good one! ;)

liquidguitars
03-12-2010, 09:53 AM
Doc, I use a quarter placed on edge if the quarter keeps balanced your vibration is low, however I like the tooth thing :mrgreen:

LG

jeff412
03-12-2010, 07:27 PM
I broke several bits with the QC at $50.00 per bit it doesn't take long to pay for a new chuck. I now have the Rock chuck and other than the fire tonight :( I haven't had any problems since swapping. It's not worth the headache of the QC in my opinion.

Jeff

spalted
03-13-2010, 07:05 AM
...................other than the fire tonight I haven't had any problems...............................
Jeff

Don't sweat the small stuff.....lol

spalted
03-16-2010, 09:35 PM
My new machine arrived today and is up and running tonight.

So far the QC passes Doc's "tooth test".

I'm glad I spent so much time reading the forum before I got my machine. I can see it would be very easy to not get the bit holder seated properly if you not familiar with the chuck.

jgowrie
03-19-2010, 02:04 PM
Keep your QC clean (blow it out with compressed air), as well as the adapters (they tend to build up packed sawdust at the set screws), use a mirror to make sure the red lines match up when inserting the bit, if the bit has any play in it after inserting it, you've got it wrong.


CSranch,

I have seen the red line on the exterior of the QC but what second red line are you referring to in your post ?

Thx

john

c6craig
03-19-2010, 02:10 PM
CSranch,

I have seen the red line on the exterior of the QC but what second red line are you referring to in your post ?

Thx

john

There is a matching red hash on the bottom of the QC that you can't see unless you are looking at it from underneath, thus the suggestion of a small mirror.

Craig

cnsranch
03-19-2010, 02:12 PM
john

A mirror is need to see both lines - the one on the outside of the QC you can see (although it's pretty hard to see it). The second line is inside the QC on the "jaws". When the chuck is "cocked" (ready for an adapter) the lines are offset. When the adapter has been placed in the chuck properly, the two lines will "line up" (ALMOST perfectly is ok). If they're not lined up, you're not set up ok.

Take the mirror (I use a small inspection mirror that's lighted), hold it under the QC, you'll see what I'm talking about.

There are some great pics posted here somewhere, I just can't find them for you.

jgowrie
03-19-2010, 02:15 PM
My new machine arrived today and is up and running tonight.

So far the QC passes Doc's "tooth test".

I'm glad I spent so much time reading the forum before I got my machine. I can see it would be very easy to not get the bit holder seated properly if you not familiar with the chuck.

Hah! I'm going to try the "tooth" test now! I suspect my QC is a properly balanced one that should last for a while. My handle itself does not visibly vibrate at all. The ball does slowly spin but that's it.

jgowrie
03-19-2010, 02:17 PM
There is a matching red hash on the bottom of the QC that you can't see unless you are looking at it from underneath, thus the suggestion of a small mirror.

Craig


john

A mirror is need to see both lines - the one on the outside of the QC you can see (although it's pretty hard to see it). The second line is inside the QC on the "jaws". When the chuck is "cocked" (ready for an adapter) the lines are offset. When the adapter has been placed in the chuck properly, the two lines will "line up" (ALMOST perfectly is ok). If they're not lined up, you're not set up ok.

Take the mirror (I use a small inspection mirror that's lighted), hold it under the QC, you'll see what I'm talking about.

There are some great pics posted here somewhere, I just can't find them for you.

Thanks for the explanation guys. I have wondered what the visible red line was for up until 30 seconds ago!

brdad
03-19-2010, 02:42 PM
I just ordered the Rock Chuck today. I manged to get the QC off with my own tools (And some heat), so it's only $10 more than the Muscle Chuck. It was worth the $10 to me to make my purchase from a regular user to the CW and the forums.

Of course, now with my QC off, I'm carveless until it gets here...

jgowrie
03-19-2010, 02:51 PM
john

A mirror is need to see both lines - the one on the outside of the QC you can see (although it's pretty hard to see it). The second line is inside the QC on the "jaws". When the chuck is "cocked" (ready for an adapter) the lines are offset. When the adapter has been placed in the chuck properly, the two lines will "line up" (ALMOST perfectly is ok). If they're not lined up, you're not set up ok.

Take the mirror (I use a small inspection mirror that's lighted), hold it under the QC, you'll see what I'm talking about.

There are some great pics posted here somewhere, I just can't find them for you.

OK. The chuck which is properly "cocked" should look how? I have suspected that either CW has made a change to the QC or that maybe my QC doesn't fully "****" into position.. The reason I say this is that I just went down and used the mirror to see the red line at the bottom of the QC and it doesn't leave alignment at all. I also noted upon really watching what is going on that it appears there is the outer sleeve of the the QC ( with the ring for your fingers to push up on ) and then another inner sleeve within that. When I push the outer sleeve up, the inner sleeve moves with it and the ball bearings never fully retract. I have also noticed that I am not able to rotate the QC sleeve ( either ) clockwise or counter-clockwise which is I believe how you are supposed to "****" the QC.

In order to insert a bit, I have always held the outer sleeve it the highest position is will go and then locked it down on the bit once I inserted it. I've never noted any issues with the bit wobbling and experienced no problems when running the machine.

Now that I've seen inside with the mirror, it does look like there are channels that should allow the ball bearings to rotate around in and thus locking the chuck in it's fully opened state.

Just curious if what I've got sounds normal to anyone?

I'm going to take some close up picts now but I won't able to upload them until tomorrow morning incase you don't understand what I'm trying to explain .

and if you don't guess, all the ****'s above are supposed to be the word "c o c k" but the forum apparently thinks I'm being dirty, :mrgreen:

will george
03-19-2010, 03:03 PM
Only problem I have had on my machine was me? OK, so I broke a cut-bit on hard maple and that my flex shaft came out of the motor housing. The Cw FOLKS NEVER ANSWERED MY QUESTION.. DANG!

Not sure, but keeping the machine clean is a good places to start with.

I use a air compressor to blow out the dust.. My compressor has a water filter so no rust.

I guess that I could write all sorts of complaints about my machine but then again, I worked as a service man on multi-million dollar machines with many problems.

My CR has a few but.. I can live with them.. OK, so I get upset just the same... Hang in there.. It will do the job if you folllow most (but not all) of the advice given in here by the local users,,, I would say, that advice from the CR folks are just NO! You cannot do that!

cnsranch
03-19-2010, 04:03 PM
John -

There are some really good pics around here somewhere, I just can't find them.

This isn't going to be technical, but here goes -

When the adapter is seated in the QC properly, the two lines will match. When you (in your words) raise the outer ring to release the adapter, the inner part of QC moves somewhat, and "cocks". The lines are then offset about 1/4". The outer ring will release to it's original position, but the QC's lines are not in alignment until you raise the outer ring, and correctly place an adapter into it. It's somewhat of a misnomer to say that the QC "cocks", because you expect it to be fully open, when it's not.

The main point here is that the lines need to be aligned when the adapter is in the QC, or it's not seated properly.

To follow your post a little more, when you raise the outer ring, the inner part of the QC rides along the bearings (bearings won't move) and then when you place the adapter into the QC, the inner part comes fully down, the bearings hold the adapter, the stars align, and you're good to go.

If those lines aren't aligned (sorry, guys), there has to be a problem - quite likely that the adapter isn't seated correctly, it'll bounce around in the QC, the bearings will trash the QC (denting it in a number of places, making it look like it has BB marks on it), and at the same time trashing the QC.

Many have tried replacing the adapter when it has those bb marks on it without replacing the QC at the same time, and some have been successful. But everything I've read says that if the adapter has the marks, it's trashed, and it's trashed the QC at the same time.

Understanding the QC is the real trick here (IMHO). If it's not right, or the adapter isn't seated right, you're screwed (can I say screwed, but not cocked?) I've seen a lot of guys brand new to the machine that trash the QC right away without knowing it (and so as not to start an argument, lots of guys with bad QC's to start with), and then they spend a bunch of time trying to figure out why they aren't getting good carves. Bottom line is that you need to keep the QC clean, don't allow sawdust to pack in there, or allow sawdust to pack in around the set screws on the adapters - anything that will prevent the QC from releasing properly, and seating the adapter properly. It's just critical.

Kenm810
03-19-2010, 04:25 PM
John,

Just happened to have a a QC Chuck and Camera on my Desk,
Note the positions of the Ball Bearings in the two photos.
Plus I remember some photos I took a while back :wink:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showpost.php?p=78073&postcount=3

mark1945
03-22-2010, 08:29 AM
John Derosa the maker of the Muscle Chuck has talked me into distributing the chucks.If you have any questions Just contact me.I have some on hand also 1/2 to 1/4 collets. Am just waiting for John to send me packaging and printed specs and installation instructions.Should be available in a couple of weeks.

shotgun 6
03-22-2010, 08:58 AM
Hi Mark -- what is the advantage of the muscle chuck over the QC or Rock other than lower price? Does it work similar to the Rock?

Bill

rjustice
03-22-2010, 09:25 AM
I just ordered the Rock Chuck today. I manged to get the QC off with my own tools (And some heat), so it's only $10 more than the Muscle Chuck. It was worth the $10 to me to make my purchase from a regular user to the CW and the forums.

Of course, now with my QC off, I'm carveless until it gets here...

Thanks brdad... I appreciate your order!

Ron

mark1945
03-22-2010, 09:39 AM
The chuck is shorter and lighter also the locking mechanism is different it uses no cams or wedges which means it leaves no marks on the collets.

Jim Lacey
04-29-2010, 11:09 PM
a simple fan aimed at the flexshaft will solve the problem.

Ike
04-30-2010, 12:08 AM
a simple fan aimed at the flexshaft will solve the problem.

Jim so does proper lubing with moly chain lube!

Ike

spalted
04-30-2010, 06:52 AM
Well since I started this thread I have learned a bunch from all of you and gained a little hands on experience myself.

My QC seemed great, no excess heat, no vibrations. All good news, except my carve quality has never been as good as it should.

So even though all signs would indicate I have a good balanced QC, I order a new rock chuck. It should be sitting at my shop right now, I have been out of town and will install it when I get back.

I know that LHR released their new chuck, but I decided to stick with Ron's Rock Chuck.

It's a proven design and frankly, Ron has a much better track record as a chuck designer than Carvewright.
I didn't want to buy more new problems.

So I have decided the best way to tell if you have a bad chuck is: If you have a Carvewright chuck....... you have a bad chuck.

I will report how things go after the switch to the Rock Chuck, but I expect everything to be very good.

cnsranch
04-30-2010, 09:38 AM
a simple fan aimed at the flexshaft will solve the problem.

No, it won't - if the shaft is getting hot on the outside, it's a helluva lot hotter on the inside - a fan is a band aid - you need to lube it properly, or you're gonna burn it up.

spalted
05-03-2010, 07:53 PM
I installed my new Rock Chuck today and just removed my first carve out of the machine.

The rock performed excellently, I would post a photo but........ my skills as a designer did not perform as well as the rock chuck. I did some raised text in a carve region. Luducia Calligraphy was a poor choice. To many thin lines for pine, I had some chipping.

But the rock eliminated the hairlines in the flats of the carve region I was getting with the QC. It is a little smoother sounding when it's carving. I never did have the hot flex shaft problems or the vibrations others had with their QC. But I did see a big improvement in carve quality, and thats what I was looking for.

Thanks for a great product and great support Ron.

Ike
05-03-2010, 08:00 PM
I installed my new Rock Chuck today and just removed my first carve out of the machine.

The rock performed excellently, I would post a photo but........ my skills as a designer did not perform as well as the rock chuck. I did some raised text in a carve region. Luducia Calligraphy was a poor choice. To many thin lines for pine, I had some chipping.

But the rock eliminated the hairlines in the flats of the carve region I was getting with the QC. It is a little smoother sounding when it's carving. I never did have the hot flex shaft problems or the vibrations others had with their QC. But I did see a big improvement in carve quality, and thats what I was looking for.

Thanks for a great product and great support Ron.


You can solve the chip out with more draft in the design. It thicken the letters! Yes the Rock is well named it Rocks! I save money on material and I use bits from www.eagleamerican.com for my 45, 90 and 60 degree bits and need no holder and NEVER had any bit slip!

Yes thank you Ron !

Ike

spalted
05-03-2010, 08:11 PM
Thanks for the draft tip Ike, I was wondering if that may help.

I also need to learn to zoom in and inspect my designs before I upload them. I could see it was not going to work after I took a second closer look. 5 more minutes in designer would have saved me....... but I'm learning.

This is the first text carve I have done. I was also thinking I should change the height of the letters too. I carved them at .25 and 999 in a .25 deep carve region. A little draft and less height may be the hot ticket.

Ike
05-03-2010, 08:13 PM
Thanks for the draft tip Ike, I was wondering if that may help.

I also need to learn to zoom in and inspect my designs before I upload them. I could see it was not going to work after I took a second closer look. 5 more minutes in designer would have saved me....... but I'm learning.

This is the first text carve I have done. I was also thinking I should change the height of the letters too. I carved them at .25 and 999 in a .25 deep carve region. A little draft and less height may be the hot ticket.

Oh you reminded me! Set your height to 250 to 500, at 999 it is too high and thins the letters! You are correct!

Ike

spalted
05-03-2010, 08:25 PM
Thanks for confirming my idea Ike.

One other note for anyone removing a Quick Chuck

I forgot to mention that when I removed my QC I did not need any heat. There was one thread landing that had about a 3/8" long tiny thread of a yellow thread locker in it.

The QC was very easy to remove. It was not loose, but it was not as tight as I thought it would be.

So before you put the heat to it, try just unscrewing your QC.

toocwhatisaw
05-03-2010, 08:28 PM
Thanks for confirming my idea Ike.

One other note for anyone removing a Quick Chuck

I forgot to mention that when I removed my QC I did not need any heat. There was one thread landing that had about a 3/8" long tiny thread of a yellow thread locker in it.

The QC was very easy to remove. It was not loose, but it was not as tight as I thought it would be.

So before you put the heat to it, try just unscrewing your QC.
Mine had very little thread lock as well and it was not loose but not too tight either just upgraded to the rock last week.

Ike
05-03-2010, 08:33 PM
Mine had very little thread lock as well and it was not loose but not too tight either just upgraded to the rock last week.

Lol I broke my first square tool trying to pop mine off. I had to heat mine up very hot!

Ike

rjustice
05-03-2010, 08:36 PM
Hi Spalted...
I am very happy that you were able to get your chuck off so easily. I would like to amend your recommendation though. There have been many that have tried to get the QC off without heat. Some get very lucky like you, but the majority break off the square tool trying to do so without heat. It is very frustrating to get your new chuck, and snap off the tool, and have to wait 2-3 days to get another.

So..... If you wish to try it like Spalted did, i would recommend getting a spare square tool with your order. It is the top item on the "Rock chuck items" page on my website. If you can get it off this is very good!... If not, you now have an idea of how much torque you can put on the square tool before breaking it off. If you use that "feel" and combine it with heat, it is quite likely you will be successfull the second time around...

Best regards and Happy Carving,

Ron

spalted
05-03-2010, 08:46 PM
Very good point Ron,

I was confident I had a good feel for how much torque to apply to a tool the size of the square tool. But I completely agree that a little to much force could result in tears and swearing or both.....depending upon your personal preference in that type of situation.

Maybe I have more luck than skill,but either way I couldn't be happier with my new Rock Chuck.

AskBud
05-03-2010, 09:17 PM
For those that are still using QC Chucks, and need to put on a replacement QC.
Viewing (the link below) the process of installing the QuickTight Chuck, will give you a viable method to better work on removing and placing the QC. By removing the Truck, you will be better able to apply your heat source, and use the wrench and square tool outside the machine.
The video, at the bottom of the link, gives super views of the truck removal process.

just my opinion!
AskBud
http://www.carvewright.com/cms/carvetight

CarverJerry
05-04-2010, 05:59 AM
Guess I was one of the lucky ones when I removed my old QC. I didn't have to use any heat but I did use a sharp blow using a dead blow hammer one time and it broke loose. Was tight unscrewing it and took a while getting the locktight out of the threads using an awl (very pointed scriber) but once it was finished the new Rock Chuck was a piece of cake putting on and using it. Just my opinion, I think the rock would be much easier to install but then again if you are still under warrenty you may want to consider that too.

CJ

heftyh
05-05-2010, 09:46 PM
I hardly post but have ben using the machine for 3 years. When I read this from the owner, it made my blood boil:

"It is not possible to hold a carbide bit in a split collet or with a paw chuck system without slip at some point. We don't say it will happen every time, but even if it only slips once in 1000 hrs, it is too many times for us. There is a choice among our consumers and we appreciate that, but we stand behind our statements."

Slips once in 1000 hrs is too much! How about the piece of crap quick change that comes with the machine that fails/ locks up every other time you use it! You must be kidding! If once in 1000 hours is too much, what took so long in coming up with a replacment for that joke of a chuck!?

I replaced the QC (after 2 other units of the same) with the Rock Chuck AND I use solid carbide bits ALL THE TIME. I'm not sure of who this other chuck company is that CW does not like but for those of you reading this- use the Rock Chuck! It is flawless! The new CW chuck may be good too but this kind of BS infuriates me to the point of not wanting to use it.

End of rant. Sorry if I offended anyone.
John

jgowrie
05-05-2010, 11:40 PM
Hehe. Up until 3 days ago I really thought I had one of the good QC's. During a routine cleaning I performed the recommended snapping up and down of the QC and it fell apart on me. Ball bearings went down into the machine and I just sat there staring at it and said a few choice words. I think it was a bad design that required the type of cleaning that would realistically need it to be removed from the machine every few carves and soaked in a cleaning solution.

I think the only one you may offend is the people that created
the flawed design and let a third party feel the need to come in and offer the type of chuck they should have designed to start with. I think the whole slippage argument is really pointless and a bit of an effort to justify buying their "late to the party" fix. Great machine and software though so now that my Rock chuck is on it's way Im looking forward
to enjoying the machine more and cleaning out that damn POS chuck less.