"Please load board"

[eharsin21]

Originally Posted by eharsin21


Below is my original question. I did a "Jump" and it worked great...........for 1 more cut. Now........the board sensor doesn't work. I have been through this so many times I could puke. I have already replaced this sensor 2 months after I bought the machine. I have blown off the sensor with my compressor so many times the last 4 years I probably have worn out my compressor.

Is there a way to "Jump" this sensor as well? Yeah, I know that I am bypassing a "Safety" aspect, but really what good is this machine if there are so many sensors that it won't run. And really, how many people are going to run a machine to carve a piece of wood and then, Oh! I forgot to load the board before I started the machine.


:confused:
I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOO fed up with this piece of crap. I bought my machine 5 years ago. I have completed 6 projects in that time. I get so frustrated with "Close Door" "Board Sensor" and the spring arm not opening enough for the bit to hit it that I put up for a year or so and try it again.

So here we go again. I have replaced the board sensor, door sensor and lubricated the spring arm. It takes at least an hour EVERY new project to get things all aligned with the stars and moon. Last night I went thru all of this and finally got a 5 1/2 hr. board cut. Needing to cut on the opposite side, I tried again this morning. SAME OLD xxxxxx. It amazes me that you can have everything working properly, turn off the machine and within 5 minutes all of the sensors don't work again.

Enough ranting..............does anyone know if there is a way to bypass the "Door Sensor"? After an hour today I finally got it to start, but after 15 seconds the door sensor stoped the carve. I push the enter button and it will run again for 5-10 seconds and again it stops with the door sensor alert. I don't want to junk a 5 hour piece of work.

PLEASE HELP ME before I take a sledge hammer to this piece of chineese excellence.
Ernie H.

[cnsranch]

Sounds like a head pressure problem - if you're using the machine in a cold environment, you're gonna have problems getting the machine's head to lower properly. If it's not too cold, and especially with how long the machine's been sitting, you surely want to lube the corner posts.

Sounds like you're not in the mood to check the head pressure, so I won't suggest that.


As you watch the key pad, you'll get the message to "please load board" as you lower the head. When it gets to the proper pressure, the message changes to "press enter to proceed". If it's not changing, gently lay your right arm on the top of the machine as it lowers, that may take care of your problem, but again, I think it's a pressure problem.

[eharsin21]

I believe you may be right. It is cold in the garage, but I ran a heater long enough to heat the air, not the machine itself. I also agree with you because when I released my project from last nite, it was almost frozen up when I tried to raise the head. It did lubricate the screw rods and grease up the turn gear (top attached to handle). I allways apply pressure to the head as I lower it down to the project as the last time a tech talked me through checked the pressure applied to the board. So I will wait for the machine to warm up some more and try again.

Thanks, Ernie H.

[cnsranch]

Ernie - couple more things -

I got brave and removed my clear cover over the weekend to prepare it for a dust collector for the machine. Learned a few things -


The cover is held in place by two metal pins, one on each side of the cover. They're simply pushed into the cover, and then held to the machine with a small metal bracket attached to the machine with two small screws. Pretty clear to me that if those screws loosen, the cover can bind, not allowing it to trip the "close cover" switch (the one closest to the key pad). Also, if those pins aren't seated properly, that can cause binding as well, messing with that pesky micro switch.

Also remember that if the switch itself isn't seated properly when attached to the machine, it can be set far enough back that the small plastic actuator molded into the cover won't trip the switch - usually the most common problem with the dreaded "close cover" message.

You problem with the bit plate not swinging out is too common a problem. I've found that it's finicky when the machine's cold as well (we're mixing some pretty complex mechanical components with equally complex electrical ones - lots of factors trip us up, temperature, cleanliness, etc). Lubing the bit plate is best done for me when I lube it from underneath - not sure why, I have problems tying my shoes - but I do know that it doesn't help when I lube it from topside. Finally, some simply place something behind the place to keep it out all the time, and not mess with it any longer. In a pinch, I've done that, too, wadding up some packing tape, and manually moving the plate out, putting the tape behind it to get through a carve. I know what's wrong, just don't want to mess with it in the middle of a project. I could swear that the plate's activated electrically, but it isn't. If it ain't working right, the problem has to be with it being too cold, or there's something blocking it's actuation.

[fwharris]

I believe you may be right. It is cold in the garage, but I ran a heater long enough to heat the air, not the machine itself. I also agree with you because when I released my project from last nite, it was almost frozen up when I tried to raise the head. It did lubricate the screw rods and grease up the turn gear (top attached to handle). I allways apply pressure to the head as I lower it down to the project as the last time a tech talked me through checked the pressure applied to the board. So I will wait for the machine to warm up some more and try again.

Thanks, Ernie H.

Like Jerry said you need a warm machine to start with. Warm is good!!

Have you tried doing any adjustment with the "close door" switch? I could be a little out of alignment.. dirty? take it out and clean it. Also check the lid tabs that make contact with the switch. The can get bent and vibrate off of the switch when the cut motor starts up..

Just blowing things out with the compressor can actually force dust into places you do not want it to go. Be careful with how much air pressure you are using!

[eharsin21]

It is working again!!!!!! For how long only the wood carving gods know.
MY FIX...........Bypass the door switches, warmed the machine and while I was cranking the head down onto the wood I had my wife STAND on top of the machine........whoala,,,,it is carving again.

Just kidding about my wife. She couldn't lift up her leg high enough.

Thanks to all.
\Ernie

[Pratyeka]

Been using my CW without a door for a long time, had to remove it to install my version of dust collector. Both switches are bypassed. Just use the stop button to stop the machine.
It was mentioned before that the safety switches prevent the cut motor from accidentally starting while the cover is opened. Ok, granted. But why would this happen?

You could always install a real E-Stop switch by wiring the connection of those 2 switches to a DPST switch located near the keypad. You would need to lenghten the wires.

[eharsin21]

you speak of "2" switches. Are talking about both cover switches or cover switch and board sensor switch? Can you bypass the board sensor switch?
thanks,

[dbfletcher]

you speak of "2" switches. Are talking about both cover switches or cover switch and board sensor switch? Can you bypass the board sensor switch?
thanks,

I doubt that you can bypass the board sensor switch effectively becuase it is used in several functions. For example, when measuring a board, I dont beleive the led sensor is activated untill after the board sensor is tripped to let it know the end of the board is near.

At least that is my understanding.

Doug Fletcher

[Digitalwoodshop]

Been using my CW without a door for a long time, had to remove it to install my version of dust collector. Both switches are bypassed. Just use the stop button to stop the machine.
It was mentioned before that the safety switches prevent the cut motor from accidentally starting while the cover is opened. Ok, granted. But why would this happen?

You could always install a real E-Stop switch by wiring the connection of those 2 switches to a DPST switch located near the keypad. You would need to lenghten the wires.


When I first got the C1 Capacitor problem it caused the Cut Motor to start by itself without the computer causing it.... The Lid Switch was the only thing between the bit and my fingers.....

I looked at the date on this picture and this problem first occurred on 5/20/08. So a search of my post on the topic will find my concern about the cut motor running when it should not.

Be Careful !!!! The Cut Motor is turned on by Q1 Transistor and Like the Car "Christine".... You never know.... A MANUAL bit change switch on the Cut Motor right switch might be good. The first time you forget to turn it back on after a bit change with the 1/8 inch bit.... Expect it to snap...

We are all adults here... Do as you please just use caution.

To clear up your question... Left switch talks to the computer and gives you the close cover error if not working properly.
The Right Switch is wired into the return path of the Cut Motor preventing it from starting....
Use Options - Sensor Data - and Board Sensor to read how sensitive it is... White paper on the board, cranked down, you should read 140 to 156. If not, clean sensor.

Sometimes you need to cut down the back of the sensor and remove the window and clean it.... I taped the back shut.

AL

[Pratyeka]

In my experience with automated machinery, most problems are cause by excess vibrations. Ever since I replaced the unbalanced QC with my modified eliminator chuck (at ~40h cut time) I've put more than 300hrs of cutting time without any control glitch.

For those who want more safety, just remove the flex shaft when changing bits.

As I said, you can re-wire both cover switches into 1 DPST switch and mount that switch wherever you like. It will act just like the cover switch and you won't be able to restart the machine without it being "on". Make sure you get a switch with plenty of power capacity, the original cover switch for the motor is too small for the power it handles.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Hey... you gave me an idea......

With your switch idea..... for the Right Side Switch use a DPDT or Double Pole Double Throw..... One side of the switch you would run the cut motor return path.... The other side you run the left side switch in series.... So that both switches must be closed for the computer to start and the cut motor to start.. That way no chance for a broken bit.... The Cut Motor switch must be on for the computer to start....

AL

[CarverJerry]

Al, couldn't you use a DPST switch, just an off and on but with 2 circuits?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Al, couldn't you use a DPST switch, just an off and on but with 2 circuits?

Ooooo... Your right... Double Pole Single Throw...... What was I thinking..... Paint Fumes.....

Good Catch...


AL