Sign hanging methods

[Capt Bruce]

Not strictly a machine question but more a final step in the sign/plaque process. I'd appreciate hearing/seeing what methods you use to hang signs on a wall.

I'll offer one to start. Three eye screws with about 1/8" ID eyes. Two are mounted at the top an inch or so down from the top edge. Measure and space them precisely and follow up with a measurement from center to center of the horizontal eyes, and the distance down from the top of the sign.

The third eye is placed near the bottom center to act as a stand off from the wall. I want the sign to stand off the wall with a shadow line evenly around its back edges.

Using the top "pair set" measurements you can precisely mount two wall hangers at that horizontal centerline distance on the wall. Check again for level and that the top of the sign will be up by your original distance above these two hanger hooks when you install it.

Hang it so to speak. Step back, open beer and admire the job.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h32/ohneplo/IMG_0753.jpg

Nothing revolutionary here, just one practical method that works for me. Hardware at any Home Depot but be sure the hook portion is a good fit for the screw eye. The design above had the narrow hook portion I needed and a 20 lb rating.

Would appreciate hearing what other Forum members have found as best work practices. If you can point me to a good thread I could not find using SEARCH I'd appreciate that too.

Fair winds,

Capt Bruce :D Carver now!

[CarverJerry]

Hey Captain, I use a key hole router bit, think I paid 4 bucks for it on line. I have a small router with the depth already set and I use my home made jig to give me equal distance from the top and side edge each time. Hope this gives you another idea to use...

[lawrence]

yup, keyhole bits are my favorites.... I put the holes in the workpiece and then place a piece of 2 inch wide masking tape over both holes with the top of the masking tape even with the top of the workpiece.

I then mark the screw head locations on the tape, remove the tape and place the tape on the wall. I have a small level that I sometimes double stick tape to the front of the masking tape (even with the top) and then I can place the piece level and where I want it. I then mark the hole locations on the wall through the holes on the tape and remove the tape and put my screws there.... works every time and I'm sure to only have to drill two holes

Lawrence

[Capt Bruce]

Thanks Gentlemen. I'll have to add a keyhole bit to my router tool set. Do you go with just one screw for hanging the signs or two on larger pieces?

I considered using a keyhole cutter but was afraid that no matter how carefully I planned it I'd route right into one of the centerline letters cut with the 60 degree bit.

Step right up fellow Forumites, there have to be more good methods out there so tell us your favorite.

Capt Bruce

[CarverJerry]

Well Capt, If it is a small plaque or sign I use one, but if it's over a foot wide I use 2. No matter how accurate you find center for using one key hole it seems like it will be off balance. This is because wood is not consistantly across the board. So what I do is put the sign (back side down) on a dowel rod and square it from top to bottom, then find where it will balance. I find doing this usually will allow the sign to hang straight. Let me know if you need more on this as I'm not sure anyone will even understand what I'm trying to say here.

[Capt Bruce]

Hi Carver Jerry, I'm right with you on the balancing a sign on a dowel rod so your explanation must be good enough for an old SEABEE.

By the way, I was married a few years back at the Sheraton in Cuyahoga Falls to my wife from Kent. I was a resident of Wellington and worked in Amherst, OH.

Thanks for your responses and ideas.

Bruce

[dbfletcher]

Thanks Gentlemen. I'll have to add a keyhole bit to my router tool set. Do you go with just one screw for hanging the signs or two on larger pieces?

I considered using a keyhole cutter but was afraid that no matter how carefully I planned it I'd route right into one of the centerline letters cut with the 60 degree bit.

Step right up fellow Forumites, there have to be more good methods out there so tell us your favorite.

Capt Bruce

If you have a rock, you can use it with the CW. Myself and others have posted many times about how to set it up and use the keyhole bit with your cw.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=13483&highlight=keyhole

Doug Fletcher

[CarverJerry]

Yeah Doug, I remember reading and seeing the mpc file on how to do that, but I'll tell ya what, I can do it faster by hand than it takes just changing the tool in the CW and cutting it. Just seems like some things are better done using other machines other than the CW. Like edge routing, since I use a jig most of the time on the CW, I do all my edge routing on my router table, this saves my jaws on the jig, besides it's faster.

Capt, that's cool about getting married on the river there. Hopefully it was nice weather when ya's did. 8)

[dbfletcher]

Yeah Doug, I remember reading and seeing the mpc file on how to do that, but I'll tell ya what, I can do it faster by hand than it takes just changing the tool in the CW and cutting it. Just seems like some things are better done using other machines other than the CW. Like edge routing, since I use a jig most of the time on the CW, I do all my edge routing on my router table, this saves my jaws on the jig, besides it's faster.

Capt, that's cool about getting married on the river there. Hopefully it was nice weather when ya's did. 8)

No problem. I wasnt saying your HAD to use the cw to do it.. and if you can do it faster and more effecient with other tools by all means do so. I know for me the cw is far more accurate and faster than I could dream of doing. I typically use 2-4 keyholes on signs depending on size and shape. The cw takes about 2-3 minutes. It would take me longer to find my router. To each his own thought. Just keep the chips flying.

Doug Fletcher

[CarverJerry]

No problem Doug, yeah as I type I'm carving a 2 part sign for a friend who's friend owns a fishing charter in NY. When it's finished it will be 36" long X 24" tall. If you remember a while back I was looking for the "Keep On Truck'n" guy and fonts, well thats what that was all about. I'll post pictures when I'm finished, hopefully it'll turn out ok. I can see now I'm going to get myself a ROCK...this oak is showing me the reason...

[oldjoe]

20d coated sinker nail right thru the center. JUST KIDDING. Sometimes I us those little picture hanger brackets you buy at the hardware store and sometimes I use two eye hooks and some decorative chain.

[Capt Bruce]

20d coated sinker nail right thru the center. JUST KIDDING. Sometimes I us those little picture hanger brackets you buy at the hardware store and sometimes I use two eye hooks and some decorative chain.

With my early attempts at woodworking and carving years ago I might as well have used railroad spikes right through the center . . .

Thanks for the laugh OldJoe.

[lawrence]

one more option to throw your way for heavy objects is something I used called a "hanging buddy" for a fairly heavy case (here's a pic)
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/QWEMedium.jpg
(ps, this is case I made for a golf club that belonged to the real "bat-21" which now hangs in my squadron)


It is basically an aluminum french cleat, costs about $10 and will secure heavier objects such as large shadow boxes, etc.

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/cleat-hangers.html

I think I got mine at Ace Hardware...

When using keyholes I like to use two even for lighter objects because I can be assured that the item will always be level... even when touched (as carvings will inevitably be)

For some very (very) light objects I will use double stick tape (industrial) but I always put one mechanical hanger in place at the end.... sometimes as easily as putting an old (very small diameter) drill bit through the piece at an angle and then unscrewing the chuck and leaving the bit in place (and hammer it flush) This works amazingly well and leaves a very tiny hole for a very long mechanical fastener.

Just a couple of more ideas...
Lawrence

[Capt Bruce]

Lawrence,

Thanks for adding the tip on the French cleat. Had not thought that far ahead but one of these days I'll be making something that big using the CW. I've used wood versions of that design for large cabinets but had not seen that aluminum version. Learn something new here each day.

Your point that people like to touch these carvings is right on the mark and that is why I too prefer two hangers no matter what type.

Nice job on the display case for Iceal E. "Gene" Hambleton's driver. His SERE story was just amazing but is fading from most memories today. Your squadron can be proud of the memento display.

[JDPratt]

For larger shadow boxes or cabinet type projects I use the French Cleat cut at a 30 degree angle. To eliminate the balancing problem on midsize or smallish plaques I use a keyhole slot. But instead of one or two individual, small keyholes, I make a keyhole run horizontally on the back of the plaque (i.e. for a 15" sign/plaque, I run a 5" keyhole slot centered and cut horizontally). That way, the sign/plaque can be slightly adjusted to counter any weight imbalances.

[CarverJerry]

Now thats a great idea. I never even thought of that. Thanks for the idea.

[Capt Bruce]

"I make a keyhole run horizontally on the back of the plaque (i.e. for a 15" sign/plaque, I run a 5" keyhole slot centered and cut horizontally). That way, the sign/plaque can be slightly adjusted to counter any weight imbalances."

Unique concept JD. That makes it adjustable, low profile, simple and secure. Low tech - high concept. Great thinking and thanks for posting.

[JDPratt]

It is about time I added something useful to this forum. Normally it is just me taking everyone elses ideas.

[Kix]

"I make a keyhole run horizontally on the back of the plaque (i.e. for a 15" sign/plaque, I run a 5" keyhole slot centered and cut horizontally). That way, the sign/plaque can be slightly adjusted to counter any weight imbalances."



Me too, also works great if you want to use two screws for bigger projects. You dont have to line the keyholes up perfectly. Just make the horizontal keyhole cut long enough that you can fit the second screw into the keyhole slot, or make two keyhole slots far enough apart.