How to tighten/remove lower left y-axis bearing

[shotgun 6]

The screw holding the non-adjustable bearing on the left-lower side of my y-truck became loose during a carve this afternoon. I replaced the same bearing a few weeks ago after the screw broke during a carve. I like to have never found the bearing -- it was hidding behind the ribbon cable coming from the control panel. When I installed the new bearing I tighten the screw using my finger to press against the rear of the bearing and used red loctite on the screw. It seemed tight and there was no movement of the y-truck or z-truck and I have made several successful carves since. When I installed the new bearing I found there is only enough room to get my finger behind the bearing using finger pressure to hold it while tightening the screw because of the rear roller. Now, finger pressure is not enough to keep it from turning when I try to tighten. Teree's not enough room to get anything in the slot on the "bearing axle" to hold the bearing while I tighten the screw or drill it out to replace it. Appreciate any suggestions.

Bill

[DocWheeler]

Bill,

It has been awhile since I replaced my Y and Z bearings, I recall that there is a hex nut formed on the inner race, can't you get to that? I recall using that thin wrench on all of the bearings - could be sometimers though.

Also, If I understand your post, your using red loctite kinda excludes your ability to re-tighten it doesn't it?

[Digitalwoodshop]

There is a wealth of info posted on this topic as seen here.

http://forum.carvewright.com/search.php?searchid=1035005 158 pages of posts made by me on the "Bearings" topic...

In summary... I had this very same problem about 2 years ago and posted a bunch of pictures. You will need to remove the Z Truck to tighten the left non adjustable bearings. I tried and ripped the bearing dust cover off in the process..... My pictures show the mess....

The trick to the adjustable bearings is to always turn the nut... the screws strip easy. To tighten, snug up, flat short side facing out, I put red nail polish on the outside flat. Snug up, back off wrench 1/8 turn, snug again, tighten wrench 1/8 turn, done.... Turn TOO far and SNAP.... A fine line....

The circuit board on the back of the Z Truck and cable is no longer used.

AL

[CarverJerry]

The link in your post didn't work for me......would like to see this information. Could someone else check and see if it works for them. Thanks

[AskBud]

This may be it.
"Bearings"
AskBud
http://forum.carvewright.com/search.php?searchid=1035330

[Digitalwoodshop]

The link in your post didn't work for me......would like to see this information. Could someone else check and see if it works for them. Thanks

I just did an advanced search and "bearing" and posts by digitalwoodshop.

Change it to posts rather than threads for faster looking.

AL

[bjbethke]

I find if the left bearings are loose it is best to remove the Z truck. If you try to adjust the bearings it messes up the down flow of the Z truck. I could just say get real and just adjust things right. I fine red glue is OK on the left bearings, but I would never use the red on the right. I have found buying a new unglued Z truck with Ron's QC I have not needed to use any tight bound on the right side. I do check things before each carve, works great for me,

[shotgun 6]

Somehow we got off the track on this thread. The issue is how to get the left lower non-adjustiable bearing off the Y-Truck (or y-axis). There is only finger room behind it so cannot use the flat screwdriver blade to hold the bearing axle while you screw or unscrew the phillips head of the screw. I believe there is enough room to use a string abrasive to get between the bearing and the y-truck to cut the screw. Now to find some string abasive. Incidently, I don't see the need for removing the z-truck to replace a bearing on the y-truck unless you're going to replace more than one.

Bill

[bjbethke]

That is a very easy step … you need a screw driver to hold that nut that holds that screw. If you use red lock tight you may need to drill that screw out. When this screw comes loose Red lock tight was not or, may not have been not used. It is very easy to remove the Z truck --- There is a PDF on how to do that.

[bjbethke]

Another befit when you remove the Z truck you can clean out all those Wood Chips behind the Z rails that give your Z truck bearings a hard time. Part of true maintains. Have you ever taken that all apart??? Lots of chips like to hide there.

[liquidguitars]

just drill it out after you remove the truck body..

http://liquidguitars.com/assets/images/drillitR001.jpg

then use locktight..

http://liquidguitars.com/assets/images/locktightR02.jpg


Now that most of the bugs are worked out of the Carvewrignt, now the focus seem to be on long term care of motors, bearings, roller rods and gunk buildup. I see this as a positive thing.


LG

[earlyrider]

Shotgun, I'd remove the Z truck first, then the Y truck. The bearings will be similar to the Z in removing/replacing them. If you want a stronger screw to attach the bearings with, use some aircraft screws; they're rated something like grade 8 in strength.
If you reuse the old bearing, but can't remove the stub, use a punch or press to remove the center, then hold the center with a visegrip and find a drill that is just smaller than the threads in the center, and drill out the screw from the back. The heat generated in drilling the screw will likely loosen the stub, and the stub may unscrew with the drill. If not, then just clean out the threads with the right tap.
Ron

[CarverJerry]

Ya know, a lot of us on the forum are pretty handy in fixing things. It seems like most wood workers are the kind of guy that can fix a lot of things around the house. I've been a machinist for a lot of years, built a lot of proto type machines, but seeing some of these pictures of you guys fixing things makes me wonder just how many guys with problems can really fix it themselves. With out having a "shop" and not wood shop, some of these problems can't be done at home. Has anyone ever give it a thought to open a repair shop just for these C/W & C/C? Just a thought that may "light" up in some ones head.

[shotgun 6]

One of the great things about this forum is that it gets you thinking (and generates ideas) when you read other's comments and advice when looking for a solution to a problem. And many times it leads to a solution, sometimes on the opposite side of recommendations. Take this lead for example. I've pondered over my issue with the loose screw on the lower non-adjustable left-hand bearing on the y-truck. For a while it looked like I was going to have to take both trucks off to get to it since there is no room behind the bearing to get a screw driver in the slots to hold it. I really didn't want to do that. Then this morning after keeping up with all the comments it dawned on me to see if there was room to get a metal cutting blade on my Bosch cordless vibrating tool between the back of the y-truck and the bearing -- the blades are very thin. In short, it worked and I'm now back in business. I had a replacement bearing and screw on hand. Have carved a four hour project since and everything is tight and solid.