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pkunk
08-08-2006, 09:33 PM
I've been playing with this for some time and it's giving me fits. A New Mexico Zia. I need it to work at about 8 x8". The only jpg I can find is only 8kb. When I get to a minimum size the carving becomes pixelated. Smaller and the lines between the arms chip away. I'm trying to carve at a depth of .2
First is the 8kb flag, then the mpc file and tthe screenshot of what I'm trying to do.

Jwade
08-08-2006, 10:34 PM
I have found it better to select straight cutting bit when cutting a design like what you have. The taper on the carving bit allows the top to tear out or chip when cutting cross grain. With a straight cutting bit you will have an even edge on the design. The other thing I would try would be to reduce depth of cut to avoid tear out. I have made cut as shallow as .010 and after adjusting the feed table into square w/cutter I had great results. Of course that was a project that I never took a photo of. :cry: Lesson learned!!
Hope this helps-
Jwade--Florida

John
08-08-2006, 11:20 PM
Draw a circle and four lines. Cut in Vector mode. (Circle will have "bumps" :( )

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/johnluard/ZIA.jpg

pkunk
08-09-2006, 11:24 AM
I have found it better to select straight cutting bit when cutting a design like what you have. The taper on the carving bit allows the top to tear out or chip when cutting cross grain. With a straight cutting bit you will have an even edge on the design.
Jwade--Florida
That might work but the software won't let me change bits. Could I just put the 1/8" straight bit in the machine instead?

David M.
08-09-2006, 01:04 PM
I just asked this same question of Chris Monday, the 1/16" bullnose and the bit and the carving bit ARE interchangable, the computer will not flag it. I was told the only time to worry about the wrong bit is using the carving bit accidentally on a edge route or cut where it will break the bit most likly.

Jwade
08-09-2006, 10:43 PM
The 1/16 ball nose and the carving bit are the same diameter.I would be carfeful using a wider bit than what it knows is in the machine. It may over work the motor by cutting to much at once. Dont know that for sure just first thought. But may be a good idea to use ball nose bit then check results. My machine is inop at this time so I cant test any other options. jwade

BobHill
08-10-2006, 10:31 AM
If you wish to increase the size of the image without getting pixelation, then in your raster paint program (PhotoShop etc.) Image, Image Size, and check the box for RESAMPLE. Now when you increase the pixels (also the filesize) it'll do so by adding pixels, but keeping the pixels the same size, thus increasing the image size so you don't have to zoom it in Designer. You'll lose image clarity (depending upon how much you add in pixels) but you really don't care about that as long as your yellows and reds convert to shades of gray to the appropriate degree. Give that a try.

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida

Juno2
08-10-2006, 05:43 PM
I am using a different process than resampling to keep vector/line images sharp for using in the softare. Resampling doesn't always work so great and your output size will almost always depend on your initial resolution and dimensions.

My process involves bringing an .eps image into Photoshop at 300dpi, or better, then greyscale it, next make it bitmap mode and set at 50% dither - 1000dpi. As long as your original dimensions match your actual use dimensions when you import the image into photoshop, your lines should stay EXTREMELY sharp and the file size will be quite small. I usually save it as a .tif then open the tif in Image ready and make it a .jpg witn NO compression. If you make the .jpg from Photoshop, just don't use any compression, leave the file as large as it will make it.

If anyone wants a better explanation about this process just let me know. It really works well!

BobHill
08-10-2006, 06:34 PM
JPEG always has a compression algorithm. It's a color lossy format, but color substitution shouldn't be a problem when converted to shades of grey and the loss of color pixels isn't that strong on the first Save, only subsequent Saves. JPEG 2000 is lossless, however I don't believe Designer recognizes it. PDF is as pure as EPS and stays vector for vector applications (and is now Adobe's base for Illustrator's .AI vector format). I still don't trust JPEG's for pesenting exactly the same size as designed when put into Designer.

Bob

David M.
08-10-2006, 06:46 PM
Just a tip in dealing with JPG files,

the CW software will measure the FIELD your image is create on, so the image itself means nothing to the software only the background shape. So if you have a .25 inch margin on all sides of your image the CW software measures from that margin not the content on the page. That's why some people keep talking about there images coming in too small when the software is showing it at what ever there exact size was correctly.

BobHill
08-10-2006, 08:49 PM
yes it will, but when you bring in only the object as a JPEG it still doesn't exactly come in to Designer with the original dimensions which I require. It's why I was trying to do with CW vector tools, but didn't make it. I understand that one of these days, CW will accept vector format from CorelDraw/Illustrator/AutoCad. I can sure use that.

Bob

pkunk
08-10-2006, 09:16 PM
Thanks for the tips. :D I'll give 'em a try soon as I have a little time.

Juno2
08-10-2006, 09:21 PM
IF you save the original with the settings I suggested, you should be able to scale it to the correct size in the Designer. As an imported object there should be NO extra borders to contend with, so, you need only drag the object to the dimensions you want to use it at to set it.

I am still learning about the Carvewright software too, but, I can pull the project in and set that object to the dimensions I want it to be, yes? So, as long as you aren't dealing with ANY border in the image object (.eps vector images opened in Photoshop allow you to set dimensions you need and the resolution, and come in with NO extra border), theoretically you shouldn't have problems making sure it's the proper size for your usage.
If I am wrong, please correct me.

I am attaching the version I did.

BobHill
08-10-2006, 09:40 PM
EPS/PDF both will do that. I understand that 128ppi is the proper resolution for raster images for CW Designer. Using CorelDraw/Adobe Illustrator for vector creation and EPS or PDF, then converting it to raster changes the exact images (no border to raster except of course, all raster images are always a rectangle), particularly JPEG (which always has a compression. Check your pixels in raw image and if it's RGB multiply pixels by 3 (24bit) for image size, then compare your JPEG filesize. JPEG is a compression algorithm always. It's also a lossy (makes file smaller by eliminating pixels in it's compression, unlike LZW compression), thus when it's opened and expanded, the pixels come back and get their color by averaging color from original pixels the new ones fall between. First Save isn't bad, but all subsequent Saves lose more pixels with color, thus the more you save a JPEG, the more quality of color you lose, as it doesn't lose the same pixels each time it's saved.

But, in this case, it's not a color problem, in any case, it's maintaining Exact dimentions. I dont' want to have to do the resizing within CW, which is why I wanted to use CW Designer vector tools to begin with.

Bob

pkunk
08-11-2006, 08:47 PM
IF you save the original with the settings I suggested, you should be able to scale it to the correct size in the Designer. As an imported object there should be NO extra borders to contend with, so, you need only drag the object to the dimensions you want to use it at to set it.

I am still learning about the Carvewright software too, but, I can pull the project in and set that object to the dimensions I want it to be, yes? So, as long as you aren't dealing with ANY border in the image object (.eps vector images opened in Photoshop allow you to set dimensions you need and the resolution, and come in with NO extra border), theoretically you shouldn't have problems making sure it's the proper size for your usage.
If I am wrong, please correct me.

I am attaching the version I did.
I want to thank you for your work. I tried your version and it wouldn't work as it is. The 'fingers' are too fat and the remaining wood so thin that even at 1/8" depth it breaks away. I guess I'll need to try and draw it.

nwn
08-12-2006, 01:45 PM
Being a midwesterner, I don't know anything about the figure you're trying to carve. What about inverting the image that Juno2 sent you? I tried it here with the invert icon, and I thought it still looked good in the software, but perhaps that is unacceptable. It certainly seems to solve the thin wood problem.

Neal

pkunk
08-12-2006, 09:23 PM
Being a midwesterner, I don't know anything about the figure you're trying to carve. What about inverting the image that Juno2 sent you? I tried it here with the invert icon, and I thought it still looked good in the software, but perhaps that is unacceptable. It certainly seems to solve the thin wood problem.

Neal
Inverted, it works fine as I had it, raised above the surface. I need one recessed into the wood, and it needs to be more equal in finger to ?? (don't know how to explain).

Juno2
08-13-2006, 06:33 PM
Inverted, it works fine as I had it, raised above the surface. I need one recessed into the wood, and it needs to be more equal in finger to ?? (don't know how to explain).

Ratio of Finger to the gap what you mean, Pkunk? I will gladly try to help you solve this issue.

How much wood do you think needs to be left between the fingers and still keep the design integrity so that the gaps dont get flaked off when the design is actually carved?

pkunk
08-13-2006, 09:06 PM
Inverted, it works fine as I had it, raised above the surface. I need one recessed into the wood, and it needs to be more equal in finger to ?? (don't know how to explain).

Ratio of Finger to the gap what you mean, Pkunk? I will gladly try to help you solve this issue.

How much wood do you think needs to be left between the fingers and still keep the design integrity so that the gaps dont get flaked off when the design is actually carved?
Yes, and thanks for the offer. I'm thinking equal as sometimes (not in this case) it wouls be used raised. It depends on the look. Do you not have a machine yet?

wyoming
12-30-2006, 01:28 AM
I can help. I have redrawn the artwork in Adobe Illustrator, I have a jpeg file for you. See the attached file, hope it works for you.

wyoming
12-30-2006, 01:36 AM
I saw an alignment problem and corrected it. Use the file Mexican Zia Drawing Final 2.jgp

calikoala
01-02-2007, 08:26 PM
particularly JPEG (which always has a compression. Check your pixels in raw image and if it's RGB multiply pixels by 3 (24bit) for image size, then compare your JPEG filesize. JPEG is a compression algorithm always. It's also a lossy (makes file smaller by eliminating pixels in it's compression, unlike LZW compression), thus when it's opened and expanded, the pixels come back and get their color by averaging color from original pixels the new ones fall between. First Save isn't bad, but all subsequent Saves lose more pixels with color, thus the more you save a JPEG, the more quality of color you lose, as it doesn't lose the same pixels each time it's saved.


Bob

you have mentioned that jpg 'always' compresses which is true most of the time. Most programs have compression enabled and will result in data loss. You can turn off compression when saving a file as a jpg and will not loose anything.