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JimStaley
01-24-2010, 09:49 AM
The last time that I had a board sensor proble., You advised me to use masking tape on the top of the board, and that worked. Today, the tape didn't work. Neither did a white piece of paper taped to the top. When I test the board sensor, I get in the 50s, even with the white paper. What should I get? Someone said that I should get in the 200s. Is that correct? This is a machine with only a few hours.

DocWheeler
01-24-2010, 10:17 AM
Jim,

Welcome to the forum, sorry, I recalled a fewer number of posts - sometimers!!
Use the search feature using quotation marks ("board sensor") and you will access a wealth of information.

One recent link is here (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=14257&highlight=board+sensor).

bjbethke
01-24-2010, 11:05 AM
The last time that I had a board sensor proble., You advised me to use masking tape on the top of the board, and that worked. Today, the tape didn't work. Neither did a white piece of paper taped to the top. When I test the board sensor, I get in the 50s, even with the white paper. What should I get? Someone said that I should get in the 200s. Is that correct? This is a machine with only a few hours.
Your sensor reading should be 3 to 4 times that reading, I noticed your join date is 2006; some of the older sensors were not sealed. There may be dust under the plastic window. It is easy to remove and clean or just order a new sensor. The cost is not high, but the shipping adds to the cost. I haven't ordered parts for my CW unit for over a year so not sure of the cost. You can get parts from sears online now.

Digitalwoodshop
01-24-2010, 11:27 AM
With white paper you should have a reading of 140 to 156.

As posted above, the older sensors were not glued around the edge of the circuit board like the current version.

If you are still using the QC the vibration could have caused a LED to break off. There are 2.

You can slice down the back to examine the LED and clean the lens.

See Pictures.

AL