X-axis motor loose

[mister_zed]

Hi, everybody!

Today when I was measuring a board I heard a loud SNAP and the belts stopped, both of them.

I turned the machine to the side and opened the bottom. I found the silvery (actually aluminum) motor driving the sand belts - and the motor was totally LOOSE. Armed with a good lamp I could actually see the whit gear wheel inside (seems) undamaged and I could see one of the screws supposed to hold the motor in place. The screw was very loose (it is still holding the motor to some extent) - and I have two questions:
1. what could cause the screw(s?) loosening?
2. how do I tighten them? I unscrewed the right side of the machine but that was not the place. Do I have to remove the belt assembly?

Anybody who has had the same problem? Talking to CW people on the phone is not really a practical option for me, for two reasons: I am overseas and my hearing is not that good.

Thanks in advance

Ziemowit

P.S. As far as the loose screws I have a theory... I bought the machine reconditioned from CW after only 20 hrs on the clock and the person who did the assembly job must have been in a great hurry, as I got the machine with loose Y-axis carriage as well...

[PCW]

You need to remove the right side cover (opposite keyboard side) then remove the black cover on the right lower corner). Tighten the three screws in picture. Vibration is one cause of the screw loosening.

[mister_zed]

THANKS!

I opened the cover and while tightening the screws I realized that my gears are broken... :eek:

So I will be logging a support case anyway... I wonder why CW does not make gears in some other material, like brass or alike. It's not very much harder than plastic, but would probably be less prone to breaking.

Just a reflection: I bought my CW about 13 months ago and just didn't have time to use it. Now I've starting using it and I must say that repairing it is a piece of cake, but it malfunctions way toooooooo often!

So far I have had problems with the compression roller sensors, board sensor, Y-truck, to name a few...

[Digitalwoodshop]

Sorry you are having problems with your X Drive. The plastic gears are designed to snap when something jams. A $5.00 gear or a $65.00 Motor or a $300.00 Computer with Servo Driver.... I think the $5.00 +- gear was a good call.

So you will need to get the broken gear or gears. To replace the gear you can remove the X Motor and gear together. When you go to install the gear, you must push the motor up and push the gear on at the same time. If you don't it won't fit. OR.... You can cut the lip edge of the lower plastic of the gear box cover so you can slide off the old gear without removing the motor.... Just remember to tape the hole so no sawdust gets into the gear box.

Some white grease or light grease will work on the gears after you clean them.

Now lets find out why they broke.... Any chance the belt under the muffler rolled under toward the keypad. It's hard to see, but if the belt is missing on the other side, it could be rolled under.

Was the board tapered in thickness?

Was the right side guide TOO close..... I keep my right side guide the thickness of a Quarter away from the board. A Tapered board in width will jam too....

Then there is putting a board in at an angle.... Like turning your car wheels toward the curb and trying to drive...

And my favorite.... Masking Tape on the bottom of the board lets the brass roller bite into the tape. If your board looses contact with the brass roller by slipping or even with a missing piece of wood on the bottom of the board, the board can surge. This can snap a bit or snap the X Gear.

Good Luck,

AL

What Country are you in?

[Scroll'ng Dave]

Al, It sounds like between you and PCW, mister_zed is in pretty good shape ...aside from needing to order a new gear, that is. In regards to your recommendations, I have a few questions if you don’t mind. (Keep in mind, I’m a rookie, so be kind).
1- You mentioned white grease. Do you have a specific brand name you like? And do you use the same grease for all required applications on the machine?
2- You ask about the board’s tapper in thickness. Doesn’t the machine scan and account for those variances?
3- The slide guide being too close. I thought the guide should be pushed up snuggly to the board?
On another note, I was reading a thing about belts rolling under the other day – it wasn’t pretty. Do you utilize Rubber Belts or are you a sandpaper guy?

(I’ll come clean – I’m not even a Rookie yet, my machine is on order and with a little luck, I should have it sometime next week!)

Thanks, Dave

[temler]

Sorry you are having problems with your X Drive. The plastic gears are designed to snap when something jams. A $5.00 gear or a $65.00 Motor or a $300.00 Computer with Servo Driver.... I think the $5.00 +- gear was a good call.

So you will need to get the broken gear or gears. To replace the gear you can remove the X Motor and gear together. When you go to install the gear, you must push the motor up and push the gear on at the same time. If you don't it won't fit. OR.... You can cut the lip edge of the lower plastic of the gear box cover so you can slide off the old gear without removing the motor.... Just remember to tape the hole so no sawdust gets into the gear box.

Some white grease or light grease will work on the gears after you clean them.

Now lets find out why they broke.... Any chance the belt under the muffler rolled under toward the keypad. It's hard to see, but if the belt is missing on the other side, it could be rolled under.

Was the board tapered in thickness?

Was the right side guide TOO close..... I keep my right side guide the thickness of a Quarter away from the board. A Tapered board in width will jam too....

Then there is putting a board in at an angle.... Like turning your car wheels toward the curb and trying to drive...

And my favorite.... Masking Tape on the bottom of the board lets the brass roller bite into the tape. If your board looses contact with the brass roller by slipping or even with a missing piece of wood on the bottom of the board, the board can surge. This can snap a bit or snap the X Gear.

Good Luck,

AL

What Country are you in?

At that price you should always order a spare set of gears and as of right now both gears come as one part, no separate gears all on one piece of metal. My first set of gears that went out, it was caused by one missing cog
on the small brass gear that is attached to the big plastic gears, so over just a few carves the missing tooth/cog or what you might call it on the brass gear tore up the plastic gear teeth up and stopped. It had made this sound from the beginning on, but i didn't know any better till it broke.

Thanks and welcome

Tim Emler

I now have my second CC up and running like a charm and now I spend all my time looking for another good deal on a recond. or used machine. It is getting harder and harder to find good deals on them.

[Digitalwoodshop]

[quote=Scroll'ng Dave;118821]Al, It sounds like between you and PCW, mister_zed is in pretty good shape ...aside from needing to order a new gear, that is. In regards to your recommendations, I have a few questions if you don’t mind. (Keep in mind, I’m a rookie, so be kind).

Great QUESTIONS !!!!!!

This is a good place for help.... Reading this before buying or deciding to buy is really a GOOD THING.... I wish more people would do the proper research before buying....


1- You mentioned white grease. Do you have a specific brand name you like? And do you use the same grease for all required applications on the machine?

Some type of light grease is good the the gearbox gears. There was some concern about a year ago about the type of grease possibly soaking into the plastic and making it weak.... Don't believe anything short of Gasoline will eat the gears.... It would work without it too.... No specific recommendations.



2- You ask about the board’s tapper in thickness. Doesn’t the machine scan and account for those variances?

Because both upper rollers holds the board flat to the table and the sand paper belts. All boards need to be almost perfectly flat.... If you wanted to use a board that is not perfect including the bottom edge of the board that contacts the brass roller, you can use a carrier board or sled with side boards to stay in contact with the upper rollers.


3- The slide guide being too close. I thought the guide should be pushed up snuggly to the board?

The main reason for the right side guide is when you do a cut path, the 1/8 inch bit goes down into the U shaped hole between the board and the guide THEN touches the top of the guide at the bottom of the U establishing the board thickness. If you are doing V Carved Text or Raster Carving, it can be off to the side as it does not do anything.

I imagine it was designed to guide the right side of the board... But board contact with the guide causes DRAG and problems. If a board was placed on the table at an angle, because of the 2 different belts it can cause one belt to shift left or right.... Rolling the belt under or snapping the belt.


On another note, I was reading a thing about belts rolling under the other day – it wasn’t pretty. Do you utilize Rubber Belts or are you a sandpaper guy?

I am still a Sand Paper Belt kind of Guy.... I change out the belts about once a year, with dust collection they stay clean. When they do start to get plugged up and worn, they let the board slip...

(I’ll come clean – I’m not even a Rookie yet, my machine is on order and with a little luck, I should have it sometime next week!)

GOOD MAN !!!! Research before the SALE....

Thanks, Dave

[mister_zed]

Thanks, Al!!!!

Yes, I realize the idea behind letting a $5 piece of plastic snap instead of damaging a motor. For the time being I have done no more than unscrewed the screws holding the gear and the motor. I realize I also have to unscrew the second gear, otherwise I will not get them out... But that's a later problem - when I get the new gears in my hand, just asked LHR to send me two sets.

Now to the reasons why it might have snapped: I see that there might be a few causes when I read your entry.

The back belt (the one above the motor) has started to move towards the edge of the left side of the roller, i.e. towards the keyboard. The sidewise movement was less than 1 cm, that translates to 0.4inch and I don't think it has rolled under yet! Just about 2 hrs before the gears broke I started thinking that I have to adjust the belts as I heard a funny scratching sound while measuring the borad, as if sandpaper srtaching against something. It's why I knew the belt was out of place before the gear broke down. But then I was in a hurry... bla bla bla... and now I cannot complete the thing I wanted to do on time. ;-)

The board was NOT tapered. It was also perfectly square, it was a chopping board that I wanted to carve on one side - for a mate of mine that's getting married this Saturday. As far as the right guide is concerned I have another approach: I adjust the guide as tight as possible and then try to slide the whole length of the board between the two guides BEFORE lowering the head. That way I know my board has a consistent width. If not, then I move the guide away from the board, maybe a quarter or less.

BUT... my board had another peculiarity. The edges were slightly rounded - and that might have caused the roller to lose contact with the board. Yes, I did put some tape on the edge (I do it as a rule, not as an exception) - but I am not sure it did compensate 100% for the rounding.

/Ziemowit



P.S. I am i Sweden, that's in the northern part of Europe. The biggest challenge was to attach the Compucarve to 220V/50Hz, which substantially differs from 110V/60Hz in the US. But an industry grade transformer solved that "minor" problem.

[mister_zed]

HI, everybody!

I tried to contact LHR via Email about ordering the plastic gears for the X-axis, but they have not answered yet. From my past experience I recall that LHR could take the better part of 3 weeks before answering my support email.

About 15 minutes ago I realized I could buy those parts from Sears as well, but Sears sells the gears as TWO assemblies (one gear in each), while LHR sells one assembly with 2 gears if I'm not completely mistaken. Now I have two questions:
- are Sears and LHR parts 100% compatible? My machine is a recond and it has TWO separate gears and NOT one assembly
- would you buy Sears and LHR for those? Sears wants 19+ bucks for both.

Any input will be appreciated.

Thanks /ZJ

[temler]

hi
I have a set of gears back ordered for a month or so now. I know it is because LHR doesn't have the 2 separate gears anymore and sear will not change there part manual and they keep trying to order the two separate gears instead of the new part number. i have tried to send sears the updated page out of the parts manual and try to order the new part number but no success so I got 1 set of gears from LHR and have another on back ordered from both LHR and Sears so it will be interesting to see who get me a backup set. If you can get the 2 gears they will work on your old machine or one piece one will work. but if you go back to 2 piece when you have already installed a one piece you will be short a screw. And when you change from 2 gear to all in one you will have an extra screw so you should save it just in case. Of course if your like me you save every screw and washer.
Take care
Tim

[mister_zed]

...to see then how Sears will deal with my order. Just a few hours ago they said parts were "in stock" - but who knows if that can be trusted... ;-)

And yes, I will keep track of any extra screws and stuff.

Thanks, Tim!

/Z

[mister_zed]

...just changed status for my order to "unable to confirm with supplier", which will probably result in a backorder. Sears keeps still different part numbers for the gears, while LHR has switched to one 2-gear assembly, thet is probably the reason.

Meanwhile LHR has not bothered to answer my email that I sent to them on the night from Wed to Thu and no reply to my email from Friday (used this time the support page at carvewright.com)...

So, what are my options now? Should I wait for LHR's reply? (I recall that they have been EXTREMELY SLOW on emails in the past)

Any reliable source for the plastic gears for Compucarve that somebody could direct me to?

Btw, what is the part # for the 2-gear assembly?

/Z

[mister_zed]

Hi,

As I wrote before, I managed to destroy one (or both) of the plastic gears for X-axis. (yes, I know, my fault, my stupidity - but one learns different ways). I thought it was a minor problem, but now I realize it is a major one:
- Sears says they have the parts on stock, but for the time being the only result is an essentiel improvement of my social life on the net ;-) I've been chatting a lot with them about parts. They are nice, understanding, they give me lots of different reasons why parts have not materialized themselves at my address - but the fact remains, no parts, just an order in status "ordered".
- LHR were also very helpful ;-) They gave me info on e-mail that the parts were available as reconds för less than $12 (yes! they actually answered that one at last!), when I phoned they told me there were no reconds and that I have to wait for 3-60 days before I can get a replacement set, depending on when and what gets delivered to them.

So, lots of helpful and nice peaople and still no parts. Scratching my head I see no options other than:
- dump the CC altogether, but it cost me a lot of money and it would be a shame
- buy another CC (and pay a few hundred $$ for the machine PLUS a hideous $450 extra for shipping to my place, as I do not live in the US); then I can use the other CC or maybe open it and see if I can find somebody who will manufacture new gears from the original ones without charging me a small fortune for that. Don't even know what the cost of manufacturing could be.
- try to find another source for the parts.

So my question to you, my fellow CC-ers, is: do you know of another source for those plastic pieces called X-axis gears? I believe I'm not the only one looking for replacements, am I?

Thanks in advance

/Z

[rjustice]

If someone has gears that are in decent shape and are willing to send them to me, I can reverse enigineer them, and provide them. Either new, or a set with a couple teeth missing would be fine.

As far as quick turn around, i could probably get a set machined up in about 7-10 days. Ultimately I will go ahead with a mold for them. I have been asked about this probably 50 times, so time to get it going.

Let me know if someone can send me something...


Thanks,

Ron

[mister_zed]

Ron, THANKS för trying to help!!!

I think one of my gears (the second one, i.e. the one NOT closest to the motor) is healthy. I will go home soon and dismantle the thing to find out. If that is the fact, I can mail you my "surviving" gear. As for the other one... well... I hope somebody can help out...

/Z

[CarverJerry]

Ron, you're the man. Making a mold for these gears is not an easy job to say the least. Do you have a way to use the mold after you make it or will you have to send it to a plactic injection shop and have it ran? And what kind of material will these gears be made from?

[rjustice]

Ron, you're the man. Making a mold for these gears is not an easy job to say the least. Do you have a way to use the mold after you make it or will you have to send it to a plactic injection shop and have it ran? And what kind of material will these gears be made from?

I can run the mold. As for material. That is one of the reasons for wanting a sample. I can toughen them up quite a bit through material changes, but it depends on what they are using. It would likely be a Glass filled Nylon though to answer your question. I can go to materials like Peak that are probably tougher than steel in this application but i dont want to have the machine fail in more expensive places. I agree that this is a good safety to break/fail...

Ron

[CarverJerry]

I agree with you 100%, there needs to be a "safety link", something has to go and if we can get a good source to buy these gears the better. Good luck.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I looked through my spare parts and I have 2 extra gears. One white and one black. I will send them to Ron for use and he can send them back when he is done. I looked for the broken one but did not see it. If I find it before I send them to Ron I will send it.

Here are some pictures showing when I broke a gear in 2007. The Teeth are missing from the outside of the gear in the picture like the ones that I am sending. I am sending both good gears as there might be different hardness of Plastic between the white and black.

You can see in the pictures that the other plastic gear has BRASS teeth and that is what Strips the teeth of the one I am sending.

You must be sure to clean the broken Tooth or Teeth out of the brass gear.

Ron, PM me the best address.

I have 4 machines and I am only using 1 at the moment so I have parts if I need them.

The Gears I am sending have the metal mounting plate on them with the SHAFT and C Clip. They were most likely Part Pulls from scrapped machines at LHR that is why the plate is with it. Keep one plate for QA on the gears Babbitt or Bronze Bearing and send one back.

It will be a balancing act between getting the plastic gear the right hardness. If it was made of brass then during a jam that overwhelms the servo system it could then blow out the driver transistor on the side of the computer wall. I have seen that in my Sony days... The Symptom would be the servo driving in one direction only. At this time the fix for a blown Servo Driver is a replacement $300.00 computer.

I am going to the Post Office in the morning so I can get this out to Ron.

Good Luck,

Ron,

AL

Question? Did anyone break a gear other than the one I pictured?

[rjustice]

Thanks AL... Also if anyone has one of the new style that has both gears as one piece i would be willing to look at that as an option too.

PM has been sent with my address...


Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Ready to Ship !!!!

Thanks RON !!!!

[dbfletcher]

Just a thought.. but when I was young and tore apart law mower engines.. the flywheel was always held in place by a "soft metal" key the slipped in between the flywheel and the shaft. Do you think something like this could be engineered? If so then we could use much stronger gears... perhaps even metal and the "key" could be plastic or very soft metal that would simply shear if to much torque was applied. And the cost for replacing the key would be just a few pennies instead of dollars.

Just thinking outloud.

Doug Fletcher

[rjustice]

Just a thought.. but when I was young and tore apart law mower engines.. the flywheel was always held in place by a "soft metal" key the slipped in between the flywheel and the shaft. Do you think something like this could be engineered? If so then we could use much stronger gears... perhaps even metal and the "key" could be plastic or very soft metal that would simply shear if to much torque was applied. And the cost for replacing the key would be just a few pennies instead of dollars.

Just thinking outloud.

Doug Fletcher

Doug,
I was thinking about the same thing, but this gear is an "idler" type gear. there is no "key to the shaft" on this type of gear. This one could be made steel or brass, then look at keying the one that is direct driving the motor, or the belt shaft, but then again, if it is a 5-10 dollar item, it may be easier to just make this one the weak link.

[mister_zed]

Al and Ron,

I realize I am as blind as a bat, whether I do wear glasses or not (must blame on age).

I went down into my basement this evening and removed the gears for inspection. Of course the broken gear is exactly the one pictured by Al (mine is white and not black) - but are we sure the other gear won't crack under strain? How are you going to do with the brass "center" of the gear? Can we live with 100% plastic? (Judging by the feel it seems like nylon.)

Btw, any idea about the price? If it's not too expensive, I'd rather build myself a small pile of those, just in case. They are not that easy to obtain on this side of the Atlantic. ;-)

You are awesome, guys!

/Z

[Digitalwoodshop]

As I see it, making a similar version would be best. Making a hardier version would shift the fail point to some place else.

AL

[rjustice]

It is likely that glass filled nylon would work, but its not a problem to overmold a brass insert either. Just more expensive because you have to have an operator present at the mold continuously.

So, I didnt realize you were on the other side of the pond from me mister_zed. If we are talking about getting you a machined part to you, that one machined part will be quite a bit more than a molded version. I would really like to get the one that AL is sending me before i give you a price. He got it out today, so i will have it by monday.

[mister_zed]

To tell the truth, I don't have enough knowledge about polymer technology to know whether I want one or another... ;-) If molded is easier to produce (cheaper?), I'll stick with that one. ;-)

So, it will be an exciting day Monday...

[rjustice]

The biggest difference is that the parts off of a mold can be mass produced from one mold that could take dozens of hours to produce. Parts are less, but someone has to invest in the high cost of the mold.

Parts being machined one at a time could take hours to make each one, and it wouldnt be practical to have a brass insert. Once i see how tough the material is, it might make sense to make the replacement out of something different like aluminum?... I will have to evaluate. Making parts one at a time would be far more expensive, but if the quantity needed is low, and timing is urgent, this is a good alternative.

Hope that makes sense...

Ron

[CarverJerry]

Ron, have you done any searching on the net for replacement gears? ONce you get these in your hands and measure them to get all the specs you may get lucky and find them already made. I just typed in "nylon gears" into google and seen a lot of different sites that make or have tons of gears. I don't have any information on these gears so thats all I can tell you. There may be help already out there. just my 2 cents worth Ron.:rolleyes:

[mister_zed]

Thanks for the explanation, Ron!

I trust your judgment. I believe that there will be more people than myself who need those parts, as LHR seems to be out of stock and Sears... they just don't even know what it is and if they sell it or not.

Bedtime for me (almost 3AM here)... Have a nice evening!

/Z

[rjustice]

Ron, have you done any searching on the net for replacement gears? ONce you get these in your hands and measure them to get all the specs you may get lucky and find them already made. I just typed in "nylon gears" into google and seen a lot of different sites that make or have tons of gears. I don't have any information on these gears so thats all I can tell you. There may be help already out there. just my 2 cents worth Ron.:rolleyes:

Jerry,
You are correct, there are many stock gears available. The thing that would be very unlikely is to have a gear reduction part that would be an off the shelf type item. It will only take an hour or so to evaluate the material and tooth profile type, etc. and i will look for an off the shelf gear... We will see..

Thanks,

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Package is on the way.

Since this gear is most likely metric, mister zed might have metric sources in automation companies or catalogs.

I bet it is possible to find a standard replacement if you know what you are looking for and where to find it.....

I did draw a blank looking for Metric Cut Motor Brushes... Found a bunch of companies but not the size we need....

The gear could be a custom LHR Design or just off the shelf Robot stuff.... They were NASA Engineers..... This stuff was the building blocks of the 70's and 80's in Robots.

AL

[mister_zed]

I'm working on it, browsing whatever I find in my country that has to do with manufacture os sales of plastic gears. I will also send a few emails to companies that manufature gears and see what they can offer...

How is it going on your side of the pond, Ron?

/Z

[Digitalwoodshop]

I live in the Sticks and expect Ron to get the package tomorrow at the soonest...

AL

[rjustice]

I have the package. I will check the profile and pressure angle tomorrow at work. I will have a much better idea end of day tomorrow.

Ron

[temler]

anybody have an idea why you can't get gears from LHR. Does any one know why they are our of stock on them? do they have any reconditioned gear sets? I know they offered me a set last time i tried getting the set of gears. All i know is they told me from now on they will keep both gears on the same mounting plate instead of two separate plates. maybe that is why they are on back order maybe they only had a few of the new style until they saw if they liked it and now waiting for the slow boat to bring it over here.
I hope to call sears tomorrow and see if i can figure out their problem about putting all cc parts on backorder and then i think i will try to get a hold of some one from LHR to see what going on with the gears. I got quick shipping on the Z bundle upgrade for my recond machine it one took 4 days and i think that is great for regular shipping. but i still like using sears because i can order at night.
see you latter:mrgreen:

[mister_zed]

Tim, it seems like LHR has serious problems in knowing what they have on stock and what they don't. As recently as a few days ago one of their employees caled Omar emailed me that they had reconded gear (ONE piece). I phoned LHR just 5 minutes later, they say me that they have not had them för a number of weeks and that OMAR must have been mistaken. It seemed to ma that the lady on the phone had done a serious attempt to locate Omar at first (he was working from home as she told me) and to locate the gears (at least judging by the shouting and talkig in the background.)

I came no further. I ordered a couple of those sets from LHR, but - of course - it was a backorder. ;-) I wouldn't go that far as to say that LHR sucks, but certainly their way of keeping stock of parts does.

[mister_zed]

So, now I have visited four shops asking for somebody who could help me with re-manufacturing of the gear - and the results were really depressing.

Three of the shops told me that the job was too little for them to even consider. The fourth one gave me such a quote that I'd rather buy a CC off Ebay, no questions asked. :-(

The taxes in this country (my country, not the US) have killed the smallest shops that might have done the job - and the rest must have coverage for their own taxes and social expenses and you name it! The result is that whatever you want to get done - you have two alternatives: either earn a sh-tload of money so you can pay people... or... DIY!

[temler]

Tim, it seems like LHR has serious problems in knowing what they have on stock and what they don't. As recently as a few days ago one of their employees caled Omar emailed me that they had reconded gear (ONE piece). I phoned LHR just 5 minutes later, they say me that they have not had them för a number of weeks and that OMAR must have been mistaken. It seemed to ma that the lady on the phone had done a serious attempt to locate Omar at first (he was working from home as she told me) and to locate the gears (at least judging by the shouting and talkig in the background.)

I came no further. I ordered a couple of those sets from LHR, but - of course - it was a backorder. ;-) I wouldn't go that far as to say that LHR sucks, but certainly their way of keeping stock of parts does.

well the good new is i think i finally got sears parts to understand that the two x gears are now just one part and there is just one part number and they will never get there other part number orders filled, they had to change the part number and the lady finally understood what i was saying and says my gears will be on the way from them, and i just got some parts that i ordered from Sears 2 weeks ago and they were sent today from a company called Fidelitone parts Logistics LLC in IL but the pick list say LHR tech on the top, so that still doesn't tell me the who, what, where, and when, of LHR and Sears parts.

But I think sears should be changing there on line store parts list to the right number for the x gears she said. And guess what tonight i just got an email saying my back ordered x gears from LHR has been filled and being shipped. so all at once I will have 2 sets of x gears but the good thing is they all are one piece gears now and they are only $14 in stead of paying for both gears, better deal and they are being shipped. so happy am I. :confused:

[mister_zed]

I would not believe what Sears says until I get the parts in my hand. I have had them saying that the separate gears are on their way - although they weren't. ;-)

Let me know when you also get the gears from Sears...

[mister_zed]

I just got the message that LHR actually shipped my gears on Feb 2, so if I'm lucky I will have them in my hand at the end of next week... Yippie!!!!

[mister_zed]

Ron, how is it going with the gears? Any luck with measuring?

[rjustice]

Yes,
I have them designed. They are not standard involute tooth shapes however, which is really suprising. You wont find an "off the shelf" design of this gear. It is definitely a special. I hope to work on a mold design this weekend. It looks like the brass insert is pressed in and not overmolded. I seriously question whether it was necessary given the life expectancy of the tooth design. I may design the mold with an insert to go with or without the pressed in sleeve.

I also saw a post with the other gear broken. It was the small brass gear. Is it common for that one to break too? It might make sense to make this a convertable mold that could do either gear, but i would have to have one of them to check as well...

Ron

[CarverJerry]

Ron, since you are reverse engineering this how about thinking in terms of an off the shelf "complete set of gears" After all this thing isn't going to be flying to the Moon.....:mrgreen: (no punt intended to the LHR guys) But since this seems to be a big problem lets think of a better way, not something that would be special order from the designers stock room (which seems to be empty). Just my thoughts Ron.

Jerry

[temler]

Hi Ron

Do you still need to see another gear with the brass insert broken, i have on that has just one tooth broken on it. I do know that there new mounting bracket is made as one piece for holding both gears and mounting for the motor. My gears have two teeth out of the plastic gear and one tooth out of the brass gear, i think this tooth has been missing since i got the machine because i have already heard that funny noise from begining and then it tore up the plastic gear and stopped. If you want to see them PM me you address and i will get it to you.
Also their new setup both gears on one plate, the gears are not put on with a c-clip anymore so i don't know how and if the gears can come off the plate with out breaking them, so i am not sure if you can replace the gears with out replacing the whole plate, i will have to see how they are pressed on to the plate the motor mounting plate, I should have a new one in hand in a couple days, i am not sure if the gears are different size or anything compared to the old setup, i will see what i can find out.
Thanks
Tim

[rjustice]

Hi Ron

Do you still need to see another gear with the brass insert broken, i have on that has just one tooth broken on it. I do know that there new mounting bracket is made as one piece for holding both gears and mounting for the motor. My gears have two teeth out of the plastic gear and one tooth out of the brass gear, i think this tooth has been missing since i got the machine because i have already heard that funny noise from begining and then it tore up the plastic gear and stopped. If you want to see them PM me you address and i will get it to you.
Also their new setup both gears on one plate, the gears are not put on with a c-clip anymore so i don't know how and if the gears can come off the plate with out breaking them, so i am not sure if you can replace the gears with out replacing the whole plate, i will have to see how they are pressed on to the plate the motor mounting plate, I should have a new one in hand in a couple days, i am not sure if the gears are different size or anything compared to the old setup, i will see what i can find out.
Thanks
Tim

Hi Tim,
Yes i would love to see the other gear, and i would also appreciate at least a picture of the new design once you get it in.

I am sending you a PM with my address...

Thanks,

Ron

[rjustice]

Ron, since you are reverse engineering this how about thinking in terms of an off the shelf "complete set of gears" After all this thing isn't going to be flying to the Moon.....:mrgreen: (no punt intended to the LHR guys) But since this seems to be a big problem lets think of a better way, not something that would be special order from the designers stock room (which seems to be empty). Just my thoughts Ron.

Jerry

Thanks for your thoughts Jerry... I totally agree with you, and it is usually my style to make "improvements" when i do something like this. We definitely have to be cautious of making it stronger however. I dont want to have a stronger gear to cause something much more expenisive to break.

When this is done off the shelf wont be a problem. I could get into a molding press within a day's notice if we had an enormous run on them :) which is quite unlikely. I am just hoping that i can recoup the investment.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good Work Ron !!!!

I am thinking a thin tubing like sleeve smaller than the one used now would be good.

AL:mrgreen:

[mister_zed]

Thanks, Ron! ...and Tim!

I wanted to send you my gear with the brass teeth; it's 100% working order, but Tim is closer to you... But if you still need a complete gear, I can mail one to you. Let me know, if that's the case.

And then I hope I can buy a few sets from you... ;-)

I will also get the new gears in a few days, but I believe there are lots of us still being able - and willing - to use the old setup. If you have to tear down the machine, then why replace two gears at once, if one is sufficient.


As far as Jerry's comment... Yes, improving stuff is a good thing. But if you alter the diameters of the gears (I don't know if it's what Jerry meant), you will certainly submit the teeth to other forces - weaker or strongr, it depends on teh actual change. That might alter the way and point they snap, which might be undesirable. On the other hand, building gears is not exactly my cup of tea...

[Digitalwoodshop]

I want to thank RON for doing this. Many of us are in this for the Long Haul.... With the Military Things going on with Taiwan and our support for Taiwan selling Military Hardware, anyone watching World News will see China is not too happy about this. Back in 1978 I was on a Navy Tin Can on our way for a port visit when the President broke off relationships with Taiwan to please China... It was a GREAT Liberty port for Sailors.....8)

So with the tension with China, a interruption of spare parts is a real possibility.... Having Ron taking the bull by the horns and making this consumable part, I for one want to THANK HIM.....

I am in this for the Long Haul....

Things that would be hard to replace with re engineered parts would be the Computer, Memory Card, Servo Motors and Keypad. Possible but harder.....

As far as things that could go bad but still be reenginerered...

The Cut Motor, it could be replaced with a Trim router....

A replacement Flex Shaft could be fashioned.

The Z Truck could easily be replaced with a RJustice Plate and Spindle setup with the same bearings.

Since there are no Software Bombs to turn off the Designer after X amount of time, we should be good for years.

Anyone in this for the long haul would be smart to start buying spare parts...

Go Ron GO.....

AL

[mister_zed]

Al, has Ron also manufactured a replacement for the Z-truck?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Al, has Ron also manufactured a replacement for the Z-truck?

NOT yet.... But I see 2 flat plates with linear bearings and a tube and bearing design in Ron's Future..... He Dosen't... But I do....:)

He will have a full time job keeping up with after market CW Products....

AL

[dbfletcher]

NOT yet.... But I see 2 flat plates with linear bearings and a tube and bearing design in Ron's Future..... He Dosen't... But I do....:)

He will have a full time job keeping up with after market CW Products....

AL

I just asked my magic 8-Ball the same question... its reply was "without a doubt" .. eery how acurate they are at times! :mrgreen:

Doug Fletcher

[rjustice]

Its all about the demand guys!.... I am listening :rolleyes:

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Its all about the demand guys!.... I am listening :rolleyes:

Ron

Considering you hit a HOME RUN with your first release.... The ROCK.... We know you have high standards and the "Ability".....

Good Luck,

AL:D

[temler]

Hi Ron

I few weeks ago i said i would give you some picture of the new all in one gear that LHR came up with and i don't know if i did that so here is the link.
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=9198e9ed705e94efd39ae58173e57a924c5932ec 6c6cb8dc4eb74d8a6cde9cae
I hope this helps if you still need it. if you need anything else let me know. thanks for all your work
Tim

[rjustice]

Hi Ron

I few weeks ago i said i would give you some picture of the new all in one gear that LHR came up with and i don't know if i did that so here is the link.
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=9198e9ed705e94efd39ae58173e57a924c5932ec 6c6cb8dc4eb74d8a6cde9cae
I hope this helps if you still need it. if you need anything else let me know. thanks for all your work
Tim

Thanks for the pics Tim... very helpful. I wasnt able to get the mold design done yet, due to all the weather we had, but i am getting caught up now and should get back to it soon.

Happy Carving,

Ron