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mtylerfl
12-23-2009, 11:59 AM
Hello,

Here is a preview of the next Project of the Month, the "Classic Round Wall Clock". This is to provide a few details beforehand so subscribers will have time to "gather" the materials, etc. if they want to do this project.

This classic round clock was inspired by early 20th-Century Post Office clocks made by the Lenzkirch clock factory in Germany, circa 1910. The original round Lenzkirch post office clocks were often up to 16 inches in diameter. This version is a reduced size at just under a 10" diameter, is 1½" thick and remains faithful to the overall design style.

This clock will compliment just about any home decor and makes a wonderful gift item.

The entire project is carved and cut out with just the two bits that came with your machine, and utilizes just a single board.

This project made me fall in love with my CarveWright machine all over again! Without the CarveWright, a project like this would require a lathe or a shaper to accomplish the round "moulding" detail. No need for those tools...the CarveWright makes this project super easy!


Main items you will need:

1) The Project File (included):
• Classic Round Clock.mpc

2) Board with the following dimensions:
.75" x 11" x 29"

(NOTE: Do not use a board that is smaller than specified above, or if you are using a sled, you can subtract 7" from the length of the board and have the sled provide the extra 7" required)

3) Clock insert with 5 7/8” face and 3 ¼” mounting diameter. (I used Style #15340 from http://www.klockit.com, although the white-faced version Style #15343 would be more representative of the original Lenzkirch post office clock.)

4) Sandpaper, wood stain and clear finish

5) A Dremel-type rotary tool with assorted sanding wheels and bits to sand small details and speed up preparation for finishing.

Here’s what I used on my Classic Round Clock made from Select Pine wood:

Finish:
1) Bullseye Sanding Sealer - one light coat (2 parts sealer/3 parts Denatured Alcohol)

2) Stain - MinWax Stain (Red Oak # 215)

3) Clearcoat - Several light coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Gloss (spray can), spot-sanding some areas with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper between coats.

RayTrek
12-24-2009, 09:41 AM
Hi Michael,

Looks like you have done it again, I feel very fortunate to be one who is receiving your wonderful projects.

Thanks Heeps!
Ray

Kenm810
12-24-2009, 10:27 AM
Thanks Michael,

I've got a really nice piece of Walnut just the right sizes for
your Clock Patten. I'll post it when I Carve and Finish it.

Thank You for Your Work

mtylerfl
12-24-2009, 12:40 PM
Thanks, guys! It was a fun project - nice-n-easy to do on the CarveWright, too!

That will look really sharp in Walnut, Ken!

The pic I found of the original Post Office clock appears to be made out of Cherry, but I'm not positive. Just about any wood will look good, though. I think I'll do another one myself out of Red Oak and/or White Oak just for fun. Hmmm, come to think of it, Paul (pkunk) sent me some Ipe wood - I might glue it up and do the clock on that, as well. I need to check and see if I have enough of it.

Here's a pic of an actual Antique Lenzkirch Post Office Clock. It is listed for sale at $750.00.

pkunk
12-25-2009, 10:49 AM
Nice project! If you don't have enough of the Ipe, let me know-I have more.:)
You'd have to change your board dimension to 5/4 and be extra careful on the glueup though. I use laquer thinner on the freshly jointed edges, glue & clamp immediately.

Chief
12-25-2009, 02:04 PM
Paul,

Could you please explain yourself a little more? Why do you have to be careful on the "glue up" and why must you clamp immediately? Does it have something to do with the choice of wood?

Chief

pkunk
12-25-2009, 02:48 PM
Paul,

Could you please explain yourself a little more? Why do you have to be careful on the "glue up" and why must you clamp immediately? Does it have something to do with the choice of wood?

Chief
Yes, Ipe, like many tropical woods, is very oily. Oily wood will not take glue like domestic woods, so the prep I described. Even epoxy will not hold unless the wood is prepped.

Chief
12-25-2009, 06:05 PM
Paul,

That makes sense. Thank you.

Chief

will george
12-26-2009, 11:50 AM
Sorry just me..

Change link to..
http://www.klockit.com/products/sku-AAAMM.html

OK, so you like clocks! I like clocks!

My Son-In-Law asked me to churn out something on the order of the Telecron Model 700 Electroalarm. (Art Deco) He wants it scaled up in size for a mantel clock. Any ideas on where I could find a similar face plate and crystal?

Link: http://uv201.com/Clock_Pages/Telechron/electrolarm.htm

Sorry I bumped your thread.. I had to ask!

liquidguitars
12-26-2009, 12:11 PM
Nice work Michael!


LG

Shacky
12-28-2009, 08:55 AM
Sorry just me..

Change link to..
http://www.klockit.com/products/sku-AAAMM.html

OK, so you like clocks! I like clocks!

My Son-In-Law asked me to churn out something on the order of the Telecron Model 700 Electroalarm. (Art Deco) He wants it scaled up in size for a mantel clock. Any ideas on where I could find a similar face plate and crystal?

Link: http://uv201.com/Clock_Pages/Telechron/electrolarm.htm

Sorry I bumped your thread.. I had to ask!

That looks like a fun project to take on. I hope you keep us posted if you proceed with it.

fwharris
01-02-2010, 12:52 PM
Got the email for the Round Clock. Down loaded and licensed with out any problems..

HMMMM 2010 is getting better already!!!!

Shacky
01-05-2010, 08:42 AM
I finally did it. I subscribed this morning. Looking forward to the monthly patterns.

mtylerfl
01-05-2010, 09:45 AM
I finally did it. I subscribed this morning. Looking forward to the monthly patterns.

Hello Shacky,

Good for you - you'll save a "ton" of $$ as a Project of the Month subscriber! We've got some great projects planned for 2010 that I think you will really enjoy!

chebytrk
01-05-2010, 10:16 AM
Hello Shacky,

Good for you - you'll save a "ton" of $$ as a Project of the Month subscriber! We've got some great projects planned for 2010 that I think you will really enjoy!

Hey Mike,

Just wondering..... would you happen to have a "teaser" line of POMs that you're thinking about for this year? Just thinking out loud on what that would be like......

mtylerfl
01-05-2010, 12:40 PM
Hey Mike,

Just wondering..... would you happen to have a "teaser" line of POMs that you're thinking about for this year? Just thinking out loud on what that would be like......

Hi Jerry,

I've thought about that, but decided against it - just in case a particular project gets put on the back burner (which happened twice last year, but no one knew about it except me on one of the planned projects, and me and a couple folks at LHR on the other one). I would hate to make a "teaser" announcement, then eliminate a project that folks were looking forward to.

Sometimes a project can risk becoming a little "too involved" for the so-called 'typical' user. I try to design the Projects of the Month with a relatively limited degree of difficulty. However, I do plan to create some projects that will require the use of many other woodworking tools that a reasonably-equipped workshop would normally have. Likely, those more "involved" projects will be made available separately, but, who knows - I might stick my neck out a little and offer one or two as a POM - we'll see!

chebytrk
01-05-2010, 12:55 PM
Hi Jerry,

I've thought about that, but decided against it - just in case a particular project gets put on the back burner (which happened twice last year, but no one knew about it except me on one of the planned projects, and me and a couple folks at LHR on the other one). I would hate to make a "teaser" announcement, then eliminate a project that folks were looking forward to.

Sometimes a project can risk becoming a little "too involved" for the so-called 'typical' user. I try to design the Projects of the Month with a relatively limited degree of difficulty. However, I do plan to create some projects that will require the use of many other woodworking tools that a reasonably-equipped workshop would normally have. Likely, those more "involved" projects will be made available separately, but, who knows - I might stick my neck out a little and offer one or two as a POM - we'll see!

Cool ! Maybe make a couple of those and do a "Pick One" Poll to see what people vote on. Just thinking of ways to attract "new" subscribers.:)

mostlycold
01-05-2010, 03:05 PM
Michael,

The POM is a great program and I have been and will continue to be a supporter and subscriber. Would like to see a slight program modification that would let me "exchange" a current POM (that I might not be interested in making) for one you may have done in the past (before I became a subscriber) or offer a reduced rate for current POM subscribers that wish to buy earlier projects. Marketingwise, you still get your annual fee, and the added flexibilty and choice may result in more customers.

Just a suggestion,
Dan

MCGEE2SKINNER
01-05-2010, 05:45 PM
Michael
I finished the clock today another great pom by you thanks.
JIM

Shacky
01-05-2010, 09:33 PM
It crossed my mind this morning that as a subscriber, it would be nice to at least get a discount on projects and patterns. Whatever....

mtylerfl
01-06-2010, 07:11 AM
Michael,

The POM is a great program and I have been and will continue to be a supporter and subscriber. Would like to see a slight program modification that would let me "exchange" a current POM (that I might not be interested in making) for one you may have done in the past (before I became a subscriber) or offer a reduced rate for current POM subscribers that wish to buy earlier projects. Marketingwise, you still get your annual fee, and the added flexibilty and choice may result in more customers.

Just a suggestion,
Dan

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll pass the idea along.

mtylerfl
01-06-2010, 07:11 AM
Michael
I finished the clock today another great pom by you thanks.
JIM

Glad you enjoyed it! Post a pic if/when you have the chance.

Shacky
01-09-2010, 11:41 AM
Finished my round clock.

Can't beat oak.

mtylerfl
01-09-2010, 02:01 PM
Finished my round clock.

Can't beat oak.

Shacky, that DOES look great in Oak!

Gean
01-22-2010, 11:43 AM
Here's my two POM Clocks (I have another face backordered). The dark one is walnut with tung oil finish, the reddish one is pine w/sanding sealer, cherry stain and Krylon spray on poly.

Gean

Shacky
01-23-2010, 07:28 AM
Here's my two POM Clocks (I have another face backordered). The dark one is walnut with tung oil finish, the reddish one is pine w/sanding sealer, cherry stain and Krylon spray on poly.

Gean

They look great. Did you put the cherry stain on AFTER the sanding sealer?

mtylerfl
01-23-2010, 08:59 AM
Here's my two POM Clocks (I have another face backordered). The dark one is walnut with tung oil finish, the reddish one is pine w/sanding sealer, cherry stain and Krylon spray on poly.

Gean

I love 'em! Great job!

RayTrek
01-23-2010, 09:08 AM
Shacky, I think the Oak looks great to, nice job!
Gean, Nicely done, I enjoy that you have shared your projects with us.
Really like the finishing work on all of them and helps me make a chose for the one I do, thanks for showing them makes me want to get going and make one today.
Cheers ~ Ray

Gean
01-24-2010, 07:29 PM
Yes, after an initial sanding, I put on the sanding sealer then looked it over and did some touch up sanding THEN two coats of stain. When that was dry I put on the Krylon spray poly.

Thanks for all your comments. I didn't think about helping someone choose which finish/stain they would want to use.

Gean

Shacky
01-25-2010, 06:10 AM
Yes, after an initial sanding, I put on the sanding sealer then looked it over and did some touch up sanding THEN two coats of stain. When that was dry I put on the Krylon spray poly.

Thanks for all your comments. I didn't think about helping someone choose which finish/stain they would want to use.

Gean

I have had limited experience with sanding sealer, but when I did use it, it went on very much like quick drying varnish. I am surprised that you can stain after it goes on and hence my question. Now I know. Thanks.

mtylerfl
01-25-2010, 08:35 AM
I have had limited experience with sanding sealer, but when I did use it, it went on very much like quick drying varnish. I am surprised that you can stain after it goes on and hence my question. Now I know. Thanks.


Hi Shacky,

I started using the shellac-based sealer to help oil stains apply more evenly on softwoods such as pine. It has the added benefit that it aids in removing fuzzies, too, since it 'stiffens' the fuzzies so they sand off more easily. Some sealers do not help at all as far as fuzzy removal...Cabot-brand sealer is an example. After application of Cabot sealer, any stain has to be applied immediately. Cabot sealer is not intended to allow to dry like the Bullseye/Zinnser or any other shellac-based sealers.

A shellac-based seal coat must be applied very lightly (Bullseye Sanding Sealer - thinned/one very light coat...2 parts sealer/3 parts Denatured Alcohol), or it will tend to seal the wood too much, making stain penetration difficult.

However, it is sometimes desirable to REALLY seal the wood completely if you are applying a "glaze" technique to your projects. A fellow named Tim Merrill outlines his glazing technique for wood carvings in his PDF available at the following link. (I had the great pleasure to meet and talk with him in person at the recent Aspire User's Group conference in Philadelphia in November 2009.)

http://www.vectric.com/forum/download/file.php?id=12581

I have used gel stains for a pseudo glaze effect - i.e., dry brushing, etc. to simulate the grain of a hardwood when using over pine. I sort of did that on my own Sailboat Project. The gel hid the pine grain on the base and looked more like a hardwood-grain when finished. Experimentation is part of the fun for me.

RayTrek
01-25-2010, 09:54 AM
Hi Michael
Thanks for the finishing tips, I am always learning something new from you.
Ray.