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View Full Version : Question on making a curved surface carving?



BobHill
06-29-2006, 11:44 AM
:?: I have a project and would like some ideas on how best to accomplish it. I build wooden model ships in 1:48 scale (1/4" equals 1') and this particular project involves carving small detail figures on a curved surface, which also has a cupped back. I've included a PDF with images on what I show for steps.

No matter which option of surface that is used to carve, will I be able to produce the image wanted on that curved surface and if so, how would it be done.

Bob

David M.
06-29-2006, 12:16 PM
Depending on size I think it is possible. The machine won't put face on your figures but it will do the bulk of the shaping work.

I would try to use the doming feature and put the curve into the top in the software and then build your window frames with the drawing feature. Not sure if it will do the window streaches (again, size is the issue, to small, too bad) the bit will distroy detail along side detail it's working on if too small. You'll have to test, but you would likely have to use the same doming feature on the window frames and other features to match the dome on the background, adjust depths till the windows/images show. Good luck, start simple and build, I'd go for windows first, this will take time and patience.

David M.
06-29-2006, 12:23 PM
Another thought , if the drawing program will not implement the dome properly make the window frames stick high above the surface dome and use a sanding block after the fact to manually put the dome into the windws.

BobHill
06-29-2006, 02:21 PM
David,

I'm looking for a piece thickness of about 0.250 and a carving depth layered between of about 0.125 and 0.0625 and 0.0. As you can imagine some of the detail might well be too small, so I may have to use my turbo carver (400,000rpm with micro bit). One of these days I'm going to try one of my diamond bits to see what happens in the CW, but not until I get more used to it. Perhaps I'm just trying to do something that the CW isn't ready to do yet, but I hope not.

Bob

David M.
06-29-2006, 02:36 PM
It's still worth the effort to try, nothing to loose but a piece of wood and time. Try the simple shapes involved before you plug in to much detail. Try a single window cut to size, no arc involved.
maybe you make it in sections to be joined later in assembly, joints vertically between windows?

BobHill
06-29-2006, 03:42 PM
Doing it piece by piece is what I'm trying to avoid. I can do that now, but it takes forever, and as you can imagine, the "rails" would also take forever more. I can cut the cup shape on the bandsaw on both sides, then place a paper template and do the carving with the turbo carver. That works pretty good, but I'd sure like to do it with the CarveWrightt.

But then everything right now is experimental with the CarveWright for me, however I primarily got it for the custom scratch building parts I need for my ships. I really thought I'd be able to do small carving with it along with making regular parts like knees, knuckles, and shoulders for the frames, etc.

Thanks for the help, though.

Bob

David M.
06-29-2006, 04:52 PM
I was just suggesting you do one section of window to see if the CW will do the size and detail you are looking for. Rather than laying out all the windows and detail and finding there is an issue after all that work.

BobHill
06-29-2006, 06:05 PM
Good point, David. Yes I'd do that, as I do for everything at the moment. I'm making a lot of kindling for the fireplace, that's for sure, and you know how much I'll need here in Florida<g>.

Bob

David M.
06-29-2006, 06:10 PM
We'll be having a bonfire here in Colorado in come Labor Day weekend

pkunk
06-29-2006, 09:30 PM
We'll be having a bonfire here in Colorado in come Labor Day weekend
NO,No...Not bonfires in Colo. The Mato Vega fire at La veta pass is 14,000 acres and still burning. Here in NM we are ever watchful and fear the tinder like condition.

David M.
06-29-2006, 10:26 PM
I was just down in Albuquerque about a month ago and it's dryer than I've ever seen, even when I lived there. I lived in Alb. and the Sandia Mountains for almost 15 years, and still go down regularly. The ground where we camped was 6" of talcom powder.

Juno2
08-14-2006, 03:07 AM
Just wondering what ship those pieces are for....
Looks like the HMS Victory. Was cruising around trying to envision your situation a little better. Now I understand alot better!

Might there be a way you could cut flat and warp it by running the grain vertically with regard to the finished piece and run your scoring on the back side? Not sure if that is feasable for your project's size but it might work. We've been discussing it off an on here at our place to see what, if anything, we can come up with.

BobHill
08-14-2006, 08:11 AM
Juno

Please tell me that the stern fancies on HMS Victory was done on the CarveWright ! That's exactly what I'm looking to do in fine detail. The aft side window dressing is more curved than the transom area (which can be steam curved also, if done easily). I have needs for this approach on many such projects (the N.T.Hill, my great grandfather's DownEast clipper ship, however is my main thrust for detail). I also have various in the building and research stage (SS Portland coastal side wheel steamship, the USS Maine, The Red Jacket Clipper, USS constitution and the USS Cairo ironclad to give a few).

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida

Juno2
08-14-2006, 08:36 PM
I couldn't be sure if it was done on a Carvewright or not. I found the image when trying to surf and find the one I figured you were doing. I can try to find out how it was done tho! :)

BobHill
08-14-2006, 09:16 PM
Usually those are laser cut outs, and any shaping has to be done manually. I do have a 1:96 (1/8" to the foot) scale HMS Victory, but haven't started to build her yet.

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida