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JimStaley
06-16-2006, 12:00 PM
I tried making the box that you designed. I did the sides on one piece of 1/2" thick poplar, and all were OK. I did the top on a 3/4" piece of red oak. The carved region extending about 1/3 the length from one end is about 0.010" (a guess) thicker than the rest of the carving. Both the flat background and the raised carved portions are thicker. What could have happened, and more importantly, what can I do to prevenmt it from happening again? The thickness of the starting wood does not have any thickness irregularities, and I used a long enough piece that it was under the rollers at all times.

cmorlier
06-16-2006, 03:42 PM
The most common cause for this is if the bit slipped in the collet. Make sure that it is good and tight.

JimStaley
06-16-2006, 04:35 PM
I measured with a caliper and the difference in height is about 1/32". Is it likely that the bit was installed 1/32" low and then jump 1/32" after hours of cutting?

What is the procedure to use to insure that the bit is seated properly?

cmorlier
06-16-2006, 05:41 PM
Ideally the cutting and carving bits that are included with the machine are well seated, but this is not always the case. What can happen is that the vibration from operation may cause the bit to work its way loose, if it was not fully seated.

To replace or reseat bits (1/4" adapters) you will need:
1) the allen wrench provided with bit adapters or machine (3/32" I believe)
2) high strength loctite

Remove the (old) bit by removing the set screws and sliding the bit out of the adapter. If you look at the cutting and carving bits, you will notice there is a flat machined into the side. Slide the bit into the adapter, so that you can see the middle of the flat area through one of the set screw holes.

Apply a small amount of loctite to one of the set screws, and put it into the hole you saw the flat through. Tighten the screw until it just makes contact with the bit. You want the set screw deep enough to catch the ends of the flat, but not fully tighted. You should be able to move the bit back and forth but, not be able to take it out. Push the bit as deep as it can go into the adapter (the set screw will catch the end of the flat nearest the cutting end), and fully tighten the set screw.

At this point the bit should not have any play in the adapter.

To finish put a small amount of loctite on the second set screw and fully tighten it into the second hole.

bfcg
04-24-2009, 10:36 AM
Dust in the z motor encoder.

Digitalwoodshop
04-24-2009, 12:01 PM
This is a VERY old post.... The real cause was most likely a short board and the board popping out from under the roller and raising up causing a depth difference as the board was no longer being held flat to the table. The Tipped up board closer to the bit so you get a height difference. Using one roller is like riding a bike with one hand.

Using a Sled, Carrier Board, or just design the project 4 inches FROM the right side of designer and use place on end.

The indicator will be the height difference will be 3.5 inches from the END of the wood.

AL