Can I use most any bits, with my Rock Chuck?

[TurtleCove]

So, now that I've got a Rock Chuck to replace the Quick Chuck, as well as the 1/4" shaft sleeve, can I go to my local wood milling store, and buy most any 1/4" shaft bit to use?

I haven't looked, but they may sell cutting, and/or carving bits. Of course they sell other bits with all sorts of profiles. Can I use them in my CW? The biggest problem I see is that the software won't be aware of the profile, and thus I'll have issues designing exactly what I'm after.

[Jeff_Birt]

The quick answer is NO you can't just use any old bits.

The longer answer - Any of the profiled 'router' bits must be plungable and most you will find will not be. Also the spindle speed and feed rates are set differently for each bit in Designer so any significant differences can cause problems as it could create much more load on the spindle than the machine expects or can handle for that matter. The other issue is with the bit length measurement. The machine has an idea of how far each type of bit will protrude from the chuck and bits are are significantly different will cause problems.

So while you can use different bits the burden of not screwing something up is entirely on you. If you are not comfortable enough to be sure you understand the ramifications of using different bits it is probably best not to.

[Pratyeka]

So, now that I've got a Rock Chuck to replace the Quick Chuck, as well as the 1/4" shaft sleeve, can I go to my local wood milling store, and buy most any 1/4" shaft bit to use?

I haven't looked, but they may sell cutting, and/or carving bits. Of course they sell other bits with all sorts of profiles. Can I use them in my CW? The biggest problem I see is that the software won't be aware of the profile, and thus I'll have issues designing exactly what I'm after.

First, you are now set to use 1/2 and 1/4 inch shank bits.
As Jeff pointed out, non-CW bit must be plunge type.
I and several other have had no problem using a keyhole bit to make hanging hole at the back of a plaque.
As a rule, similar diameter bits will run fine, so when selecting bits in designer, choose the one that most closely resemble the non-CW bit you will use.
Experiment on cheap wood, with simple short patterns. Take notes for future reference.
OR build your own cnc router;)

[Rocky]

The quick answer is NO you can't just use any old bits.

The longer answer - Any of the profiled 'router' bits must be plungable and most you will find will not be. Also the spindle speed and feed rates are set differently for each bit in Designer so any significant differences can cause problems as it could create much more load on the spindle than the machine expects or can handle for that matter. The other issue is with the bit length measurement. The machine has an idea of how far each type of bit will protrude from the chuck and bits are are significantly different will cause problems.

So while you can use different bits the burden of not screwing something up is entirely on you. If you are not comfortable enough to be sure you understand the ramifications of using different bits it is probably best not to.

I would agree that one can't effectively use any bit with the Rock chuck. And, also, it must be "plungable". I am a little confused with "bit length issue". I thought, perhaps in error, that the CW automatically adjusted for bit length when it's moving the bit up and down, touching the board, etc., etc., prior to beginning the carve. Am I missing something here?

[cnsranch]

I am a little confused with "bit length issue".

When you select the 1/8" cutting bit, the machine knows it has a .8" to 1" cutting depth. But, if your cutting bit only has a 1/2" cutting flute, you can cause some pretty obvious problems.

[Rocky]

When you select the 1/8" cutting bit, the machine knows it has a .8" to 1" cutting depth. But, if your cutting bit only has a 1/2" cutting flute, you can cause some pretty obvious problems.

I'm not sure what you're saying here, but I appreciate the feedback. :)

[TurtleCove]

Rocky, your question is common with the Rock Chuck (RC). When using the QC, the bits always went into the chuck, the same distance. With this new RC, we users, can vary how far each bit is inserted into the chuck.

You can use a permanent marker, or a small piece of electrical tape, or small piece of shrink wrap tubing....or any consistant measuring device, such that you always insert the bits the same distance into the RC. If you do so, you'll be fine.

[Rocky]

Rocky, your question is common with the Rock Chuck (RC). When using the QC, the bits always went into the chuck, the same distance. With this new RC, we users, can vary how far each bit is inserted into the chuck.

You can use a permanent marker, or a small piece of electrical tape, or small piece of shrink wrap tubing....or any consistant measuring device, such that you always insert the bits the same distance into the RC. If you do so, you'll be fine.


Yes, I do that now (using heat shrink tubes) and haven't had any problems (at least none that I'm aware of). I thought Jeff (in his earlier comment) was saying that different length bits could be an issue. I thought (using the Rock chuck) that, for example, if a 60 degree bit that has an overall length of, say, 1.5" would work the same as a 60 degree bit with a longer overall length, say 2". I had assumed that the CW would correctly handle either. Am I wrong on this?

[chkorte]

How do I get the bit out of the QC bit adapter. I can get the set screws out but not the bit.

[dbfletcher]

How do I get the bit out of the QC bit adapter. I can get the set screws out but not the bit.


They locktite them in now. I just put a rag in the jaws of my vice... closed it until the shaft would slide thru but the qc could rest on the jaws... then with a hammer I gave them a couple small taps and the bits broke free and dropped in to the rag. You can probably also use heat... but i just had to use pretty smalls taps with a hammer. Hope that helps. After you get them out, you will want to use a fine sandpaper to remove the rest of the locktite. I used 800 grit.. but 400 would probably have been fine too. If you dont have a vise, you can probably use a deep well socket that the shaft fits thru, but the qc bit holder doesnt.

Doug Fletcher

[Jeff_Birt]

There are a lot of differences between different bits. It seems the first thing a lot of folks think of when they think of different bits is going out and finding some cheap RotoZip or similar bits which are most definatly NOT what you want to use in your CarveWright.

When I was speaking the of the bit length I should have been more specific. The distance the bit protrudes from the chuck is important as well as the actual DOC (depth of cut) the bit was designed for. Folks with this aftermarket chuck have to figure out some method of keeping a consistent bit length between changes themselves.

I use Bosch 60 and 90 degree bits carbide on my machine as they were very close to the same size as the CW bits and I needed them quickly. I would not however suggest trying to use a panel raising bit etc in the machine. Some folks have had good luck with keyhole bits but you have to know how to set up the vector paths properly.

[Chief]

Al,

Forgive my ignorance but what is a "crack" torch?

Chief

[Kenm810]

A regular lighter set to the highest flame. Used for smokng freezers or crack.crack (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=crack)

[dbfletcher]

Does anyone have any experience with these bits or similair?

http://www.amanatool.com/cncroutingdetails/rc-1028.html

I like the replaceable "inserts" idea.

Doug Fletcher

[Chief]

Al,

I guess I'm giving my age away. In high school we used natural gas to heat copper irons in electric shop but I never heard of a butane soldering iron. Does it look anything like that torch on the left?

Chief

[Rocky]

There are a lot of differences between different bits. It seems the first thing a lot of folks think of when they think of different bits is going out and finding some cheap RotoZip or similar bits which are most definatly NOT what you want to use in your CarveWright.

When I was speaking the of the bit length I should have been more specific. The distance the bit protrudes from the chuck is important as well as the actual DOC (depth of cut) the bit was designed for. Folks with this aftermarket chuck have to figure out some method of keeping a consistent bit length between changes themselves.

I use Bosch 60 and 90 degree bits carbide on my machine as they were very close to the same size as the CW bits and I needed them quickly. I would not however suggest trying to use a panel raising bit etc in the machine. Some folks have had good luck with keyhole bits but you have to know how to set up the vector paths properly.


Now I'm with, Jeff....a panel raising bit on the CW...that sounds like problems. Even if I could figure out how to use a keyhole bit on the CW, I'd still use my router table, it seems a lot easier.

Also, not to "beat a dead horse", when you say "same size", are you referring to the overall length of the bit or the length of cutting portion oof bit?

Thanks for the feedback.

[gwizpro]

Doug, I have the Amana In Groove Bits, Here is the scoop... The 90degree bit works absolutely great and eliminates a lot of fuzzy's. BUT the 60 Degree bit is to long due to the length of the blade holder. The bit gets stuck on the bit touch plate and the z truck jams. I have only tried the 90 and 60 bits. For signs or vector cuts with the 90 degree bit it is well worth it as the cost to replace the bit is around $20.00. I have run that bit for over 100 hours so far and it is still very sharp. The In-Groove system has 6 bits to it and can cut,
* Laminated materials
* Veneers
* MDF
* Plastics
* Wood
* Solid surface
* V-Tip inserts can also cut aluminum!

You can get great prices here, www.toolstoday.com.

Tom

[dbfletcher]

.... Even if I could figure out how to use a keyhole bit on the CW, I'd still use my router table, it seems a lot easier.


If you take a look at this thread, I posted an MPC of how I use the keyhole bit. I cant imagine ever going back to doing keyholes manually. The CW makes this way to easy and precise

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=13483&highlight=keyhole

Doug Fletcher

[WayneNero]

Hello,

I was wondering what you think....

I just got a carvewright and was wondering if I should buy the bit kit for the CW or the Rock Chuck as I have various router bits in stock.

I understand that the Rock chuck is a better balanced unit that also reduces the heat in the flex shaft.

So my question is do I spend the money on a RC or buy the CW bits and get to know my machine a little bit better and then switch to the RC?

Thanks

Wayne

[TurtleCove]

Since I've never used any aftermarket bits, I'd probably buy the Rock Chuck, and the Carvewright bits, and then take the CW bits out of their holders, to use with the RC.

I say that only because I don't know where else to get those same CW bits, elsewehre.

I'd love to see a list from someone like:

CW Bit Ogee = Aftermarket Bit: Link here.
CW Bit xxx = Aftermarket Bit: Link here
.
.
.
etc.

[dbfletcher]

Hello,

I was wondering what you think....

I just got a carvewright and was wondering if I should buy the bit kit for the CW or the Rock Chuck as I have various router bits in stock.

I understand that the Rock chuck is a better balanced unit that also reduces the heat in the flex shaft.

So my question is do I spend the money on a RC or buy the CW bits and get to know my machine a little bit better and then switch to the RC?

Thanks

Wayne


I'm sure you will get tons of opinions on this one, but for me, the qc was nothing but trouble on both of my machines. My relationship with the carvewright went from a 2-3 (scale of 10, 0 being lowest) when I was using the qc to probably and 8-9 now with the rock. If you are having no problems with the the qc, i would opt for the bit set as you can still use them with the rock down the road. I think to rock is well worth the money, but if you have a qc that is working well.. no reason to replace it until required.

Doug Fletcher

[redbeardrdnck]

Doug, I have the Amana In Groove Bits, Here is the scoop... The 90degree bit works absolutely great and eliminates a lot of fuzzy's. BUT the 60 Degree bit is to long due to the length of the blade holder. The bit gets stuck on the bit touch plate and the z truck jams. I have only tried the 90 and 60 bits. For signs or vector cuts with the 90 degree bit it is well worth it as the cost to replace the bit is around $20.00. I have run that bit for over 100 hours so far and it is still very sharp. The In-Groove system has 6 bits to it and can cut,
* Laminated materials
* Veneers
* MDF
* Plastics
* Wood
* Solid surface
* V-Tip inserts can also cut aluminum!

You can get great prices here, www.toolstoday.com (http://www.toolstoday.com).

Tom

What tip size are you using for your 90 degree insert bit? Amana has 4 sizes available from .005" to .040".

Red