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LollyWood
11-22-2009, 12:16 PM
This is a new one for me. I've been searching for a hint since last night w/o any real luck. Soooo...go to the Gurus and see if anyone has had this happen or what the fix might be. I'm a non-warranty so repairs are done at casa Bernie's 3 car work shop. :rolleyes:

Last evening while in the midst of a 2.5hr carve, the power serged, tripping the main breaker. Both thing 1 & 2 went dark. I flipped both off, unplugged, and slipped the cards. Then went and reset the breaker. Thing 2 responded w/o a hitch. Back on task with a bit of air carve to catch up. Beauty.

Thing 1 on the other hand did not return from the dark side.
First off, when I plugged it in,(W/ the switch off) it powered on. No response from the flipping the switch on/off. just stayed powered on.
Restarted the project, it measured the board fine...
Then, there was no response from the cut motor during bit check. Ya know when the motor spins a few seconds before it goes in search of the plate?
I stopped it right away. Rechecked the motor and flex connections, and tried again. same results. Pulled the bottom plate and checked the main/cut motor/switch connections. All looked OK and killed power when disconnected. Put things back together, but could get no response from the cut motor at all. Did a sensor check at the #7 option. Got the 1-2-3 reading by twisting the flex by hand. Started to get a mite frustrated, went and sanded a few sleds. But returning and repeating the steps above could not get a pulse. So maybe I cooked the motor, Pulled out the spare (Thanks Al for the good habits at the start :)) swapped em out....same-E-same.

And here I am. I'm thinking the power flux may have fried the power switch and/or one of the control boards. But as previously noted. I'm pretty good at fighting fires, I suck with mechanical/electrical. Any ideas or experiences?

Side Note: Every body on this forum are some of the best people it is my fortunate opportunity to associate with. I have made some very close relationships w/ most of you (even from the shadows where I lurk) but I truly enjoy the interactions more then I can say. So do a ol' smoke eater a favor. Have a safe, healthy, and HAPPY Holiday season. Make this one the BEST Ever!!! Wear those dust masks, use that DC, monitor that gizmo, and have fun making things that will last a life time.

Looking forward to any advice.

Digitalwoodshop
11-22-2009, 12:40 PM
I would swap the X control Board. There is a Q1 on the board and most likely since it was ON when power surged, it might be smoked....

There are 2 other 6 pin components. U1 is a Optical component where the computer lights the LED inside the chip and the light turns on a Triac that acts as a isolator between the Computer and the 115 volts. I think this component is the Cut Motor Variable Speed component. When you hear it change speeds.

The U3 is another Optical Coupler that uses a signal from the computer to light the LED light inside the component and turns on a transistor switch inside the chip that then turns on the big Q1 Transistor that is the high current component. Q1 is basically a solid state relay or switch.

Q1 is a on off switch for the Cut Motor. Disregard the C1 broken, that a a result of the QC vibration.

So the X Termination board has 3 components that can zap. Plus there is U2 that is a full wave rectifier. I know it turns AC into DC and I believe is used to supply the low voltage control voltage to turn on the Q1 through U3.

The Cut motor power comes into the X Termination at J3 and one lead goes to one lead of J4 the jack feeding the cut motor. The Other lead goes to the Q1 switch and from the Q1 it goes to the second lead of the J4 jack to power the Cut Motor.

AL

liquidguitars
11-22-2009, 12:57 PM
First off, when I plugged it in,(W/ the switch off) it powered on. No response from the flipping the switch on/off. just stayed powered on.

check the common and hot wires on the on off power switch first. The wires can be loose and cause a short. At times i would hear a strange crackling sound of the loose wires until i fixed it.

LG

Digitalwoodshop
11-22-2009, 01:33 PM
Quote:
First off, when I plugged it in,(W/ the switch off) it powered on. No response from the flipping the switch on/off. just stayed powered on.


Do you mean that when you plug in the unit the LCD turns on or the Cut Motor spins up?

Might have the wires touching together at the switch.

AL

liquidguitars
11-22-2009, 01:37 PM
Might have the wires touching together at the switch.

my thinking two :)

LG

LollyWood
11-22-2009, 08:42 PM
When it gets plugged in, the LED lights up. Not response Off/On at the switch. It will load a project. Measure the board. Ask for the correct bit. Won't spin up prior to bit plate check. That's as far as I've let it run, afraid it will drag the bit in the "Y" and snap it. Have to unplug to reset it back to project screen. It does ask "Enter to continue. Stop to abort." Aborts back to start position.

Checked the wire connections at the switch. When either is unplugged, the LED goes dark. Ensured the connections had good separation. Followed the hot wire to main board. w/ same effect. Followed to X Terminator? (Good Get Al. Hoped you would have some experience w/ this. :)) Same thing. That's as far as I wanted to go, not knowing any thing about live power feed. Hell I might do something that makes thing 1 run back wards. :rolleyes: Ok i guess if I use Oriental script.

Digitalwoodshop
11-22-2009, 10:34 PM
Sounds like 2 problems.....

The on off switch is shorted as when you unplug on lead from the switch the unit shuts off. Plug it back in and it will stay on.

The fact that the Cut Motor does not spin up could be the RIGHT cover switch?

OR the X Termination Board....

AL

LollyWood
11-22-2009, 10:39 PM
Thanks Al, thought you would have a work around. Will order a x trem board and a on/off switch. Start by replaceing the switch, then the board. Will report progress.

Digitalwoodshop
11-22-2009, 11:05 PM
Make sure you check the right switch, if you hear a click 9.99 times out of 10 it is good. Now the left switch is a light duty switch and it's 50 50 if that one clicks and is still good... But we know the left switch is fine...

You have 2 machines? Swap between the machines..?

You already swapped the Cut Motor correct?

AL

LollyWood
11-22-2009, 11:19 PM
Yes sir, Spare C motor in. Sensor check showing 1-2-3 w/ hand twist of flex. New motor switch in place. Strong click-click check.

LollyWood
12-07-2009, 07:19 PM
K,
Swapped out the cut motor. Switiching the on/off switch fixed the shut down problem. And switched out the X Terminator board.

But the cut motor still doesn't spin up during bit check. :confused: I'll admit I'm stuck. Not being at all mechanicly adept. Is there anything on the main power supply that effects the cut motor? Any other ideas before I call Tech Supt?

Luckly thing 2 is chugging along, but some things are delayed. (Got kinda spoiled have'n two six guns :))

Jeff_Birt
12-11-2009, 09:41 AM
If you had a large enough surge to damage a power switch there is likely more damage to the electronics. Since you have bypassed the cut motor safety switch and swapped out the motor and drive board about the only remaining option is the control board.

Although...thinking out load here...if the surge was large enough to damage the switch it could have damaged wiring as well. You might ohm out the wiring to the cut motor and see if they are OK.