Router bits

[Rapidroy]

Hi All
This will be my first router so I'm asking for some input on bits. I have a 1/2" rock chuck with 1/4 & 1/8 sleeves and need a 1/4 roundover bit which one would work? check link
http://woodworker.com/14-pierce-roundover-mssu-948-880.asp?search=14 roundover&searchmode=2
heres what I'm making

[DocWheeler]

Roy,

The bit appears to be OK, did you check out the one from LHR? From my limited experience with the ROCK, the bit is held tighter without the sleeves. So, if you don't have the quarter-inch chuck, the round over bit with a half-inch shaft would be my choice.

As for the mpc, I noticed that most of the "objects" were not centered and was wondering if that was intended.

[Ike]

Hi All
This will be my first router so I'm asking for some input on bits. I have a 1/2" rock chuck with 1/4 & 1/8 sleeves and need a 1/4 roundover bit which one would work? check link
http://woodworker.com/14-pierce-roundover-mssu-948-880.asp?search=14 roundover&searchmode=2
heres what I'm making

Doc is right, but with the "Rock" you can use any bit. Even with the QC I used these bits from Eagle/ Price cutters. Price Cutters merged with Eagle www.eagleamerica.com

They have 1/8 to 1/2" bits of all kinds except the 1/16th ballnose I have not seen any like it yet?

But I always use the 45, 60 and 90 degree bits and they work great and are a great price! I go to the Price Cutter page for some reason they cost less, but I think they are the same bit as Eagle.

Ike

[Rapidroy]

Hi All
I wanted to get the bits local and the Woodworks supply is 1 mile away (no shipping!). So would #948-908 be a good choice? It looks to the same spec's. I'm going to make a jig with the extra 7" on the sides and extra on the top & bottom of the piece. I will hold the piece with 2 screws through the bottom of the jig. The piece is the front of a stereo amp that I'm building and hopping to sell as a kit. So the holes in the peice need to be right where they are.

[Chief]

Doc is right, but with the "Rock" you can use any bit. Even with the QC I used these bits from Eagle/ Price cutters. Price Cutters merged with Eagle www.eagleamerica.com

They have 1/8 to 1/2" bits of all kinds except the 1/16th ballnose I have not seen any like it yet?

But I always use the 45, 60 and 90 degree bits and they work great and are a great price! I go to the Price Cutter page for some reason they cost less, but I think they are the same bit as Eagle.

Ike

Ike,

The CW/CC seems to accept/use a small number of bits. Is there any way that you can add different bits or do you just select something close to what's offered by the machine and hope for the best?

Chief

[DocWheeler]

Chief,

As you implied, you should select a bit that would take an equal or greater cut so that the firmware would adjust the feed-rate appropriately - at least that is my belief.

I would also assume that LHR would frown on it!

[dbfletcher]

Chief,

As you implied, you should select a bit that would take an equal or greater cut so that the firmware would adjust the feed-rate appropriately - at least that is my belief.

I would also assume that LHR would frown on it!

The only "non standard" bit im using is a 3/8 keyhole bit... but boy do I LOVE using it with the cw. I find it way easier than doing the keyholes manually... and I just select the 3/8 straight bit in designer.

Doug Fletcher

[WRW]

Doug
I would love to use the keyhole bit, would you be so kind as to share your settings, I create enough designer firewood already through trial and error.
Thanks

[dbfletcher]

Doug
I would love to use the keyhole bit, would you be so kind as to share your settings, I create enough designer firewood already through trial and error.
Thanks

Sure... here is a MPC. The "connected lines" element is the only carve feature that does any work. The rest are just for "documention" of how the hole will look. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Basicially you just plunge... move the bit the distance you want... and then return to where you first plunged. Other wise u would get a big hole at the top and botton of your line. (you may have to zoom WAY in to see that the connected lines work that way in my MPC)


Doug Fletcher

[WRW]

Thanks Doug
You have likely saved many boards severe mutilation.
Much appreciated!