Dust Collection - the final answer

[Frederick_P]

There has been a lot of discussion about this topic on other threads but I thought I would start a new one to share my experiences and opinion. After much experimentation, I have come to the conclusion that this, or something similar to this, is the final answer on the topic.

Don't waste your time and money building a downdraft table. This method is extremely inefficient, especially when carving wide boards.

Adding a blower to the carving head to blow away the dust will not help, it will only blow dust around the inside of your machine so that it will get into every nook and cranny.

The only solution that really works is to collect the dust at the source. I have seen at least three methods posted here that attempt to do just that. Ask Bud has plans for sale here to make your own dust collector but it is hard to tell from the photo on the site exactly what the setup looks like. Ringneck Blues has come up with a metal unit and another member (sorry, forgot the name) demonstrated in a video how he adapted a floor sweeping attachment to his machine.

The method I have come up with is similar in concept but I have refined it a little to make it easy for anyone to make with their basic shop tools and the configuration has been tweaked so that you can expect almost 100% dust collection efficiency. After 30 hours of carving, I took the machine apart to inspect it for dust and found it to be virtually as clean as it was before I began the carves.

The secret is in the venturi shape of the opening as well as the ability to get as close to the carving bit as possible without interfering with the Z-truck. The gentle curve of the intake to the plenum ensures a smooth airflow.

I made this unit from 1/2" wood on the sides and back and 1/4" ply as a covering. The 90 degree angle tube to connect to the dust collector was bought for around six bucks and is secured to the dust collector using T-bolts inside to provide secure bolting. You will notice two threaded holes on the shelf of your CarveWright unit. These are used to secure the collector to the machine using two small angle brackets mounted to the side of the unit.

Hopefully you can duplicate the setup from these photos. It is important to note the airfoil shape of the intake. This is necessary to provide an airflow that will pick up dust from the sides and to avoid vortexes that will occur with sharp edged intakes.

You can make this unit in a couple of evenings and if you do you will never have to worry about dust again. The interior of the machine is completely free from dust after many hours of carving. I did not even notice any dusting on the clear cover. I can't imagine anything that would work better and so for me, this is the final answer.

This would be a simple item for someone to manufacture out of some sort of resin and hopefully LHR or someone will offer it and a replacement cover with the clearance section cut out for a very reasonable price. Dust is more than an annoyance, it is a health hazard and a guaranteed path to reducing the life of your machine and creating all sorts of operational problems. A dust collection system like this should have come as a standard accessory with the sale of every machine. If it had, IMHO, many of the problems experienced by the users would not have occurred.

[AskBud]

Well Stated. Thanks for your insight.
AskBud

[PCW]

I agree 100% and thanks for sharing your pictures as well as your experience.

[fwharris]

Fredrick,

Nice job on the design and build. I think I have an understanding of the venturi concept you are talking about. Is that what you are showing in the 3rd image and can you explain it a little more?

Again great job and you hit the nail on the head about the dust issues with the machine.

[Woodhacker]

Would it be possible for you to furnish some sort of dimensional drawing of your dust collection rig? Thank you.

[Frederick_P]

I will try and sit down and draft up something more accurate in terms of the dimensions, assembly and especially the venturi intake. A little swamped today with clients but hopefully within the next couple of days I can have something posted.

Richard Clark, another CarveWright owner, was over yesterday to see it in action and he took some tracings and photos to make a template. Richard, if you are reading this, maybe you can share what you have as well?

[Frederick_P]

The third image shows the T-nuts under the 90 degree angle tube. The second image shows the intake. I can see that the venturi curves are not well represented there. I will try to snap some more pics to give you a better guide.

[Chief]

I will try and sit down and draft up something more accurate in terms of the dimensions, assembly and especially the venturi intake. A little swamped today with clients but hopefully within the next couple of days I can have something posted.

Richard Clark, another CarveWright owner, was over yesterday to see it in action and he took some tracings and photos to make a template. Richard, if you are reading this, maybe you can share what you have as well?

Frederick,

Can you furnish the drawing using Sketchup? With a Sketchup file, everybody would be able to rotate and zoom in/out on their own machine.

Chief

[unitedcases]

An even better question, can you make them and sell them. I have made so much for this machine that I am in the market to buy a already made dust collector. Matter of fact I just wired up my workshop and have a dedicated circuit for the machine and another dedicated circuit for a dust collector, yet to be purchased. No since in buying the DC without the insert for the machine. Design looks good. So How Much?

[Frederick_P]

Frederick,

Can you furnish the drawing using Sketchup? With a Sketchup file, everybody would be able to rotate and zoom in/out on their own machine.

Chief

I am more comfortable using Illustrator. How about if I provide isometric views with dimensions? I can show the detail on the intake using a cutaway. I promise I will get to this in the next day. Sorry, but I just haven't had the chance. I would like everyone to have the ability to make this. You really will not believe how efficient and easy it is.

[STEAM]

Frederick
I have been trying to decide on a dust removal system and I really like yours. I plan to construct one for my CW, Great design and execution. Thank you for sharing.

[Frederick_P]

OK, maybe these will help. Here are a few important notes when you are making this unit:

It is best to create the airfoil shape on the intake after you have glued up the unit. I used a hand sander to create the smooth shapes on the sides and the front to allow me to blend the curves into one another.

The curve that matches the shelf on the CarveWright unit has to fit exactly in order to avoid air leakage. A good seal can be obtained by cutting the side curves a little larger than needed (I used a profile gauge to get the initial curve), then clamp both sides together and sand them to the exact curve. In this way, both side will be identical. Sand a little, test fit, sand again and keep doing that until the fit is perfect.

When connecting the vacuum hose to the unit, support the hose with some sort of adjustable system to take the weight off of the dust collector and to provide clearance for the board. You want to avoid the board hitting the vacuum tube as it carves.

Use a 4" dust vacuum. Do not use a shop vac. A shop vac is not designed to run for extended periods of time, produces a lot of static electricity and does not have sufficient air flow to do a good job.

Make sure that there are no sharp edges where air flows. Use glue, filler or whatever you like on the inside to create a nice, smooth surface for the air to flow through.

I used a Dremel Moto Tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the opening in the clear lid. Use masking tape as a guide and cover the inside of the machine to keep any ground particles out.

If built correctly, you will discover that almost 100% (maybe 99.8%) of the dust will be removed and you will be able to extend the life of your machine and drastically reduce maintenance and operational problems. It will be like having a new machine!

Have fun!!!

[fwharris]

Frederick,

Excellent design, looks very similar to mine for the insert. Just a little different in dimensions but very close. This should give the community here a good shot of making their own units.

The air foil you mention, is that where the unit gets the venturi effect you spoke of??

Thanks again and a job well done!!

[Frederick_P]

Yup, the airfoil shape of the edges of the insert eliminate the vortexes caused by sharp edges. I noticed a remarkable increase in efficiency after I added that modification.

[WRW]

Hi all
For anyone still wondering about Fredericks design, it works great. I was over to have a look at it in operation and was impressed. One of the good points about his design is that every one of us using a CarveWright likely have everything you need to build this already and the skill sets to do it. If you can cut wood and fasten it together you can build this from scarps around the shop. His use of the threaded holes already in your Carvewright to attach the dust collector, makes it very easy to install.
Now all I need is that new 4" dust collector so I can retire my trusty shop vac.

If you build it, it will clean.
Thanks for sharing Frederick

[Frederick_P]

An even better question, can you make them and sell them. I have made so much for this machine that I am in the market to buy a already made dust collector. Matter of fact I just wired up my workshop and have a dedicated circuit for the machine and another dedicated circuit for a dust collector, yet to be purchased. No since in buying the DC without the insert for the machine. Design looks good. So How Much?

I'm not in this to make money, otherwise I would have kept the plans for this idea to myself. I would rather that LHR or some other company produce them out of resin and improve upon it further by tapering the opening to the tube and maybe even air tunnel test the airfoil shape on the intake. I would hope that they would sell it cheap because I think it is in LHR's best interest to reduce the problems users are having with their machine. I would hope that if they did do that that they would at least thank me with a free unit to replace my wooden one.

Perhaps if there are others that intend to build this, they might consider making extra to sell. I have no problem with that. People should be reimbursed for their labor. Maybe start a new thread for people who want to make/sell them?

[cnsranch]

Nice website, fredrick.

You aren't hiring, are you? Someone to hold the lights, sweep the floors, I'll:rolleyes: do anything

[chebytrk]

Nice website, fredrick.

You aren't hiring, are you? Someone to hold the lights, sweep the floors, I'll:rolleyes: do anything

You're too late! I already sent in my application ! :mrgreen::D

[cnsranch]

At least I'm not the only sick puppy around here.

On a more serious note, this is a terrific design - do you think it can be made from acrylic - would be see thru that way.

[Frederick_P]

At least I'm not the only sick puppy around here.

On a more serious note, this is a terrific design - do you think it can be made from acrylic - would be see thru that way.

Jerry,
I wouldn't recommend acrylic as this material holds a static charge really well and could be a hazard to the electronics of the machine. There wouldn't be much to see, anyway. The way it is now, you can see the cutting head and the dust disappearing into the intake. Kinda fun to watch!

[cnsranch]

Thx, Fredrick.

With your design as it is, how thick can the wood be that's being carved?

[WRW]

Hi Jerry
I'll jump in for Frederick here, I'm sure he won't mind me answering for him. Since every thing attached lifts as you crank the top up you are only limited by the thickness allowed by the maximum height of the CarveWright itself.

[cnsranch]

Richard -

Oh yeah - that was my stupid question for the day :rolleyes:

Thanks

[lovejoys]

I was thinking of acrylic too

also I think I will put a bottom all the way

[dbfletcher]

I was thinking of acrylic too

also I think I will put a bottom all the way

No one wants to use "transparent aluminium"??? Surely Im not the only trekkie here.

Doug Fletcher

edit: Imagine my suprise when I just googled that only to find out that science fiction isnt really fiction anymore..... althought not really as described in Stat Trek either.... yet.....

[lovejoys]

can one of you trekkie draw this thing up in a ptn for all of us

[cnsranch]

The one Fredrick gave us in post 13 below looks pretty good....

[lovejoys]

I did miss that sorry

[Frederick_P]

These PDF's are a much better quality than the ones posted before. Unfortunately I am limited as to the file size I can upload, but I was able to get a much better optimization with these.

[Ike]

These PDF's are a much better quality than the ones posted before. Unfortunately I am limited as to the file size I can upload, but I was able to get a much better optimization with these.

Better PDF? Wow I was thinking as I downloaded the others wow this guy is good! All he needs is an instructional PDF!


Thank you so much for your help and sharing your design I am working on my own using sheet metal but I think I am going with your design! Do you think sheet metal will be ok?

Ike

[Frederick_P]

Better PDF? Wow I was thinking as I downloaded the others wow this guy is good! All he needs is an instructional PDF!


Thank you so much for your help and sharing your design I am working on my own using sheet metal but I think I am going with your design! Do you think sheet metal will be ok?

Ike

Ike,
wood may seem like "old school" but it doesn't conduct electricity very well. If you use sheet metal, I would advise that you dissipate any static charge that may accumulate. Static charge is caused by friction, and the dust whipping into the intake will cause a lot of it. I have heard of people having their computer fried because of it, so you may want to take that into account.

[seabass]

My entire dust collection system is top of the line -all metal. Nothing is better than metal for dust collection. All top of the line industrial dust collection equipment is metal for a reason. Books can be written on it so I will not get into it here. Simply ground the metal, which makes it the best out of ANY material, better than plastic and better than wood. It gives the static electricity a place to go, safely to a ground!!.

[dbfletcher]

My entire dust collection system is top of the line -all metal. Nothing is better than metal for dust collection. All top of the line industrial dust collection equipment is metal for a reason. Books can be written on it so I will not get into it here. Simply ground the metal, which makes it the best out of ANY material, better than plastic and better than wood because it gives the static a place to go safely to a ground!!.

man.. your fast on the kb sometimes.... beat me to it again! But I agree 100%. I you dont use metal.. make sure you run a bare copper wire through out the entire ducting to isure you give static a place to safely go. The copper wire nees to be grounded at some point.

Here is one grounding kit I know of...

http://www.amazon.com/Jet-JW1053-D-C-Grounding-Kits/dp/B00005A1IR

Doug Fletcher

[ByBry]

Woodcraft and others all have tubing for dust collection. I have 3 inch clear acrrylic. They also sell gounding kits which is rolled & braided copper wire.

I'ts attached to each inlet and to the grounding sscrew on my dust collector. Never have had an issue.

[Digitalwoodshop]

As some know I have a top dust collector made from copper circuit board material. I have a ground wire with 3 gator clips on each end. I clip it to the Foil Dryer Hoses I use and 2 places on the dust collector. On the machine end, I clip it on the outfeed table, metal roll around cart and the copper collector. Last summer I was hearing this POP while the machine was doing a cut path... Looked and I was seeing a Lightning Bolt snap from the copper hood and the 1/8 inch bit.... Turned the lights off.... Looked and the ground clip had come off of the copper collector.... Put the clip back on and it was fine.

I did short the copper sheets together to prevent them from becoming a Capacitor....

The pictures are from March 2007.

Picture 2 shows how I cut a slot in the collector to let it lock over the lip edge. I later added foam weather strip. That slot is the weak link in my design... I am going to borrow an idea from one of our members and place the collector inside the tray.... I will offset my hose assembly off to the right to keep it out of the way and make bit change easier for me.

AL

[Frederick_P]

Yeah, it's interesting, my CW machine didn't even come with a three prong plug. You would think that any machine that has a computer on board would at least want a grounding plug.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yeah, it's interesting, my CW machine didn't even come with a three prong plug. You would think that any machine that has a computer on board would at least want a grounding plug.

WELL..... Since you asked......

Another in a series of... Since you asked..... Grab a Cup of Coffee.... It's a long one... There WILL be a TEST....


Back in 2007 I asked the very same question.... Found out that the BETA units had a 3 wire plug with ground. My production unit had a 2 wire plug.

Someone here on the Forum was working at the UL Lab at the time but not directly involved with the CW Certification and had followed the Certification progress. I don't understand all of it, but it needed to be a 2 wire plug to pass.....

Part of it is the Double Insulated Cut Motor like the Double Insulated Power Tool only having a 2 wire plug.

Then there is the Power Supply... Part of the function of the Power Supply is to produce the voltage needed... The other is to "Isolate" the resulting output power from the Power Company for "Safety".

Our CW Power Supply takes the AC power in anything from 100 to 240 Volts AC and converts it to DC then uses a Chopper to make the DC into rapid on and off DC. The reason is that the Chopped DC can pass through a Transformer just like AC.

AC is Power Company Alternating Current
DC is Direct Current like a battery.

Back in my High School days I took a bunch of D Batteries and connected them to make about 20 volts... DC voltage will not pass through a transformer, but Chopped DC WILL.... I took a Metal File and attached the positive lead of the battery to it. The Negative lead of the battery to the other side of the transformer. When I dragged a wire over the file quickly I was making Chopped DC.... This Chopped DC is like the points in a CAR making Spark Plug Voltage.... Well, when I picked myself up off the dirt floor of my first shop..... I discovered Stepped UP Voltage..... I had generated a higher voltage with the File chopping the DC..... and knocked myself on my butt...:mrgreen:

So back to the CW Power Supply.... DC goes into the Chopping Circuit to make chopped DC (Or AC) and passes thought the "Isolation" Transformer and is AGAIN Rectified and made into DC a SECOND TIME.

This DC Output also is routed to the FEEDBACK Circuit and this is where it decides how much DC to make..... 16 volts or 24 volts....Etc... Our Power Supply makes 2 Voltaged.... V1 and V2.... What the numbers are, I just never measured the voltage. I saw it posted somewhere....

In one block diagram it shows a Optical Coupler.... A LED or light in a IC Chip and on the other side a Optical Receiver, very much like the Board Detector. When the light comes on it flashed to the other side of the chip making a transistor switch turn on... This is to continue the "Isolation" between one side of the "Isolation Transformer" to the other....

The Chopper acts like a Pulse Width Circuit to turn the Chopped DC back into stable DC again. At least that is what I think... I don't have any wiring diagrams but here are some concept pictures.

Picture 1 is a block diagram showing this concept.....

You can also read more about it on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply)

Picture 2 is from the same company that made the CW Power Supply called LI Shin from Korea. This diagram is a Single voltage Power Supply Model 0226 that is a Laptop Power Supply, or that big cube we all know.

Our Power Supply is a Model 0633D two voltages.

Picture 3 Shows the many components that I labeled with RED text in all the pictures to showing what is happening.

So in review.... AC in Rectified made into DC. The DC is Chopped, The Chopped DC passes through the Transformer Isolating it. The New AC is Again Rectified and made into DC... A Sample of the DC is routed to the Chopper to tell it to chop faster or slower.... A basic Pulse Width Modulation.... After that you see a few coils and capacitors that filter or clean up the DC..... Our "L2" or Choke Coil is part of that Coil and Capacitor Filter. That is why the L2 Coil breaks the power goes OFF like a fuse blowing....

Picture 4 is another write up about the block diagram....
Picture 5 is of the component layout for the laptop power supply.

So what this all means it that our CW is designed to be used as a 2 wire machine.... WE add the Static DUST Voltage and mess up the works.....

That is why I ground my outfeed tray with my dust collector setup to BLEED off the Static Voltage....

Well.... You ASKED...:rolleyes::lol:

I miss Teaching....

AL

[cnsranch]

AW - could you go thru that again, please? :mrgreen:

[Frederick_P]

Thanks, Al! That's interesting info. I love to find out how and why things work and this explains a puzzle (the two pronged plug) that I had been scratching my head over.

Anyway... the bottom line? If you decide to make your collector out of metal, make sure that you have a good system to bleed off the static charge from the unit. It is also a good idea, as Al has pointed out, to take this precaution with your machine IN ANY CASE.

Whatever material you decide to make your dust collector out of, if you are following the design in this thread, note that you will get much better performance if you incorporate the airfoil modification. This may be difficult to make out of metal. In my tests of this design, sharp edges will create swirls of air that will leave dust residue behind.

[Frederick_P]

Al, I am a little confused. If you are grounding your output tray to your dust vacuum, and your dust vacuum is grounded to the mains via a three pronged plug, what would be the difference to grounding the CW machine to the mains via a three pronged plug?

[dbfletcher]

Al, I am a little confused. If you are grounding your output tray to your dust vacuum, and your dust vacuum is grounded to the mains via a three pronged plug, what would be the difference to grounding the CW machine to the mains via a three pronged plug?

The think the point there was that LHR would have had a much more difficult time with the UL requirements if they used a grounded three prong plug. So I dont think there really is a differnece for your question above... but as end user, we are not required to get UL approval. At least that was my take on the posts.

Doug Fletcher

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes, as IS the machine works just fine with no dust collection induced voltages and a 2 wire plug. When we add the air flow and the dust we generate static voltage. My way to dissipate the voltage it to ground the outfeed tray of the machine bleeding off any voltage. Had I not grounded the frame the static will eventually seek out the path of lease resistance to ground through the negative or ground side of the power supply... Like the car frame and a battery.... Isolated... Like when you have dry air and carpet in your house and you shuffle your feet and touch metal... SNAP.... That is why the Vacuum Cleaner Hoses KILL machines... It enters the power supply through the negative side of the components and ZAPS the Semiconductors....

The higher the quality of the vacuum hose the more conductive carbon in it to dissipate the voltage. The Cheapest of Vacuum hoses made from semi hard plastic are the best VOLTAGE Producers.... Holding on to grounded metal with one hand and the cheap vacuum hose with the other while you vacuum helps as does turning OFF the machine while you vacuum....

As for the Servo Motors... Don't have a clue on them yet.... I was going to take the Driver Transistors in the Computer and see what the parameters were on them someday....

Just remember that if you disassemble the servo motors that have magnets in them and put them back together it is very likely they will never work again. You must apply a "Magnetic Keeper" to the servo when you remove the Rotor or the Permanent magnets in Stator will demagnetize. They must then be placed in a jig to remagnetize the servo motor. I wrote about this about 2 months ago and posted some links.

AL

[JDPratt]

Just remember that if you disassemble the servo motors that have magnets in them and put them back together it is very likely they will never work again. You must apply a "Magnetic Keeper" to the servo when you remove the Rotor or the Permanent magnets in Stator will demagnetize. They must then be placed in a jig to remagnetize the servo motor. I wrote about this about 2 months ago and posted some links.

AL


Al, I don't think there is much chance of me trying this one. I am still trying to decypher your lost post. Man that stuff just went right over my head. I can build a house, plumb it, wire it, and trim it out and you made me feel a little stupid there. I'm glad guys like you are on this forum, because without you guys giving advice, I know I would be totally lost.

John

[wasacop75]

:rolleyes:Let me see if i got this right....
If i drag my feet this time of year across carpeted floors and i touch my wife's ear she screams.....Good enough.....

Static with the machine...not good.

So, if we have dust collectors, you cant get enough grounding wires..:rolleyes:

[Digitalwoodshop]

:rolleyes:Let me see if i got this right....
If i drag my feet this time of year across carpeted floors and i touch my wife's ear she screams.....Good enough.....

Static with the machine...not good.

So, if we have dust collectors, you cant get enough grounding wires..:rolleyes:

Correct you cannot get enough ground wires BUT... Never drive a Ground Rod in near your shop and ground you equipment... The Main Power panel in your house should be the main ground. If you use another grounding point a thing happens called "Ground Loops" Where the Ground near your shop might be more Positive in voltage than your meter entry power panel and "Strange Things happen with Electrical Equipment with Ground Loops..

Ground everything Through your dust collector...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)

http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/

And one that will let you appreciate your CW... Ground Loops and a ShopBot... http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/312/45117.html?1251060934


AL

[JDPratt]

Okay, I am a slow learner with this. So you are saying that grounding the machine to the metal frame of the DC is adequate because the three prong electrical plug on the DC has its own ground?

[Frederick_P]

Okay, I am a slow learner with this. So you are saying that grounding the machine to the metal frame of the DC is adequate because the three prong electrical plug on the DC has its own ground?

Why not simply replace the two pronged cord on the CW machine with a three pronged cord as the ground would then be the same as that of the dust collector?

[DocWheeler]

JD,

That is correct, just tie your machine to the ground wiring of your electrical system. You can do that by going to the DC itself or any ground in any receptacle. Swapping the two-conductor for a three-conductor cord to the CW would do this also.

[dbfletcher]

JD,

That is correct, just tie your machine to the ground wiring of your electrical system. You can do that by going to the DC itself or any ground in any receptacle. Swapping the two-conductor for a three-conductor cord to the CW would do this also.

Would LHR be required to remove the three prong if it was sent in for repair? That would put it outside of the UL spec right?

Doug Fletcher

[castingman]

An idea

When i set up my ham radio station i ran a wire from the ground bus in the service panel to a copper bar mounted on a wood stand with 15 1/4" holes drilled in it . All of my ham gear is connected to the bar and no GROUND LOOP.

Just an idea.

Michael

[Chief]

An idea

When i set up my ham radio station i ran a wire from the ground bus in the service panel to a copper bar mounted on a wood stand with 15 1/4" holes drilled in it . All of my ham gear is connected to the bar and no GROUND LOOP.

Just an idea.

Michael


Mike,

I must be missing something here. You have a wife from ground in your service panel to a copper bar mounted on a wood stand. I don't have any idea what the holes are for but am I correct that this wire going from the service panel to the copper bar isn't grounded in any way OTHER than at the service panel. In other words, you are just extending the ground from the service panel to a copper bar where you attach the grounds from your ham gear.

Chief

[castingman]

Chief,

That is correct, Am ham gear has a ground lug on them for that reason.Ground loops are bad for ham radios, And lighting bolts are bad as well.
The holes in the bar are for connecting the ground wires. The bar is connected to the main ground in the house buy the shortest route possiable.


Michael

[Chay]

Thanks Frederick P for the Dust collector plans. Dust is the bane of this machine.
I have been playing with my new, used machine machine for a few days now and the collector is working great. Wish I could say the same for my carvings. I have a lot to learn.
Regards Chay:-D

[temler]

If it really matters I am going to let you know which dust collector I like best, while waiting for my gears to get here i decided to make a DC but didn't know which plans to use so I made three different ones just for the heck of it and i know i am going to buy another machine someday soon, I hope. I built Bud's plans, also the PDF plans on this thread, Also my version of the metal one. I made the metal one first and stupid me forgot that when the machine is set up on the bench the right way there is no room out the right side for the hose to hook up under the DC so that one went to the back room for retirement until i get a better place to set up my cc, Then i went with the PDF on this page I sure looks nice but it doesn't sit in there you have to find a way to tie it down to the machine or it just tips right out, Looks good and works good but I didn't want to figure out how to fasten it down and still be able to take it out when i wanted to, there was too much on the out side of the machine, Then i decided to make Bud's I really like it because most of it is inside of the machine, it looks good, has a way to fasten it down, works good, It is good all the way around so I think that is my favorite one, i think till i build another one. That is what boredom does to you. I am still going to run a bare wire inside my hose from my DC machine and then fasten it to my out feed try and fasten it to my DC machine which is ground, I think that should work, Does it have to be bare or can i just strip the wire in several place along the 10' hose, just wondering?

Thanks
Tim

[AskBud]

Tim,
Thanks for the good review on the CW Vacuum Head Project.

Good luck finding the source of the "spare" washers.
AskBud

[Frederick_P]

Tim,
I guess I wasn't too clear in my drawings about how to fasten the collector to the machine. You will notice that there are two threaded holes on the shelf of your machine. Two angle brackets are fastened to the side of the collector to allow you to hold the unit down with a couple of small machine screws. If you are resourceful, and it would appear that you are, you could use a shaft with a screw on one end and a knob on the other so you can quickly remove the collector when needed.

No matter which version you find works best for you, the important thing is that you have now extended the life of your machine and should enjoy much better usage without having to constantly clean the unit. Everyone needs to add a good dust collection system to their setup.

[fwharris]

Tim,

Great job on setting up you dust collection system for the machine. I would expect that you will see a lot better performance and less time cleaning.

[temler]

Tim,
I guess I wasn't too clear in my drawings about how to fasten the collector to the machine. You will notice that there are two threaded holes on the shelf of your machine. Two angle brackets are fastened to the side of the collector to allow you to hold the unit down with a couple of small machine screws. If you are resourceful, and it would appear that you are, you could use a shaft with a screw on one end and a knob on the other so you can quickly remove the collector when needed.

No matter which version you find works best for you, the important thing is that you have now extended the life of your machine and should enjoy much better usage without having to constantly clean the unit. Everyone needs to add a good dust collection system to their setup.

HI Frederick

I found the fasten down spot works great so now I think they both are great and both look great and both fasten down great. Now i have a second DC ready for when i get a new machine, but this machine is going to be used with Bud's since i already cut the door. I will stain and varnish the one from your plans now and sit it on the shelf till i get my other machine. I would recommend both of yours now. just happened to have two angle brackets off a couple of old electric boxes and found a thumb screw the right size off one of the scrap tools that are in the dead bin box for used parts, "When i was repairing a lot of tools and i had tons of dead tools people didn't want to have fixed, so for a while I would recondition them and sell on ebay, not bad money but had to stop when i got stuck in this chair) and a screw on the other side so it worked great, Thanks for the plans
Thanks
Tim Emler

[Frederick_P]

Tim,
I am happy to hear you got it worked out. When I get a moment, I should go through the PDF and instructions and clean it up with better diagrams and descriptions. Thanks for the feedback!

- Frederick

[bowfingers]

Frederick,
I built a dust collector from the plans you posted and I works great! (Much better than the one I made out of aluminum flashing and wood) I modified it slightly, I put a ¾ X ½ X 11¾ inch piece of wood on the bottom drilled two holes in it and put two ¼ x20 T nuts in the holes to hold it on the Carvewright.
Thanks for posting the plans!
Denny

[BlueRocco]

I plan on doing this dust collection modification. And I hate to be a dunce, but you are cutting the front cover to make this work right? I guess I should make it first, then see how it fits, but it just sounds too good to be true. I mean after building the downdraft table that "worked" O.K. still a LOT of cleaning up afterward and a huge effort to get it all set up. I don't want to do another that doesn't work all that good.

Blue

[Frederick_P]

I plan on doing this dust collection modification. And I hate to be a dunce, but you are cutting the front cover to make this work right? I guess I should make it first, then see how it fits, but it just sounds too good to be true. I mean after building the downdraft table that "worked" O.K. still a LOT of cleaning up afterward and a huge effort to get it all set up. I don't want to do another that doesn't work all that good.

Blue

Blue,
Unfortunately I cannot see a way around cutting the front cover, although it is not as scary as it first seems. I used a Dremel MotoTool with a cutoff wheel to make the cut. I taped off the area to be cut with masking tape and took sever gentle passes. Trying to cut through all at once will likely result in a lot of melted plastic. But some people have said that they have cut through using only a box knife. If you are worried about voiding the warranty, then order a replacement cover from LHR to have handy in case you ever need to send it in for repair.

[AskBud]

I plan on doing this dust collection modification. And I hate to be a dunce, but you are cutting the front cover to make this work right? I guess I should make it first, then see how it fits, but it just sounds too good to be true. I mean after building the downdraft table that "worked" O.K. still a LOT of cleaning up afterward and a huge effort to get it all set up. I don't want to do another that doesn't work all that good.

Blue
In my CW Vacuum Head Project, listed below, the cover is the last step. However, since there are several plans/products, on the forum, I'm not sure which persons plan you intend to use.
AskBud

[fwharris]

Blue,

Yes the front cover needs to be cut for the top mounted dust collection.

It is a good idea to build the collector before making any cuts in the door. Make sure the unit fits properly first and then mark the lid for where the cuts need to be make.

And no it is not to good to be true!! Those that have installed the top mount systems have seen a large improvement of the dust removal vs just the down draft. Since doing mine I very seldom have the down draft port open.

EDIT; Were we waiting on this or what?? LOL!!

[AskBud]

Blue,
Unfortunately I cannot see a way around cutting the front cover, although it is not as scary as it first seems. I used a Dremel MotoTool with a cutoff wheel to make the cut. I taped off the area to be cut with masking tape and took sever gentle passes. Trying to cut through all at once will likely result in a lot of melted plastic. But some people have said that they have cut through using only a box knife. If you are worried about voiding the warranty, then order a replacement cover from LHR to have handy in case you ever need to send it in for repair.

I've sent units to Sear's repair with my modified cover, and they have no problem.
I include a statement that the "safety" is still intact, and that the modified cover eliminates dirt build-up and reduces problems caused by that dirt.
AskBud

[fwharris]

Bud,

Great info to know for those with the CC!!

Like you stated, none of the safety features are by passed with the modification to the door and with the dust collection units in place the machine can not be accessed.

[BlueRocco]

Thanks to all . I'll be working on it this weekend, since I seen to already have all the parts necessary.

Blue

[Digitalwoodshop]

I cut my cover with a cordless saber saw and a fine tooth metal blade and let the saw cut without pushing... did get a little melting and backed off. I have cut 2 of them with good luck.

My machine went back to LHR with the cut cover in 2007 and they called me and asked why I cut the cover. Said they could replace it? I said no, that's OK you must still oven it to get to the bit and is safe.

But that was 2007..... Things are different today....

AL:mrgreen:

[DickB]

Here's another version of a top-mount dust hood. I used a light-duty 18" bending brake to fabricate this. The black part is standard 3/4" lumber and is fastened to the machine using an L bracket and screws into the stock holes. There are no sides, just the aluminum top pieces. I could have used a flexible hose to connect this to my downdraft table/stand, but I didn't have any. What I did have was PVC pipe and brush-type weatherstrip, so that is what I used. I machined a wood block with a hole for the PVC and a recess for the weatherstrip on the CarveWright. This allows free movement of the machine up and down. This design preserves free access to the cutting area and board loading area.

I agree with others that the combination top mount dust hood and downdraft system is the way to go. I purposely did not clean up my machine for these photos. The photos were taken after more than a half-dozen carves. Previously I had been cleaning out the machine after every carve. Why CarveWright does not include a top mount dust hood or offer one as an accessory is beyond me.

[Kenm810]

DickB,

Nice Job on a really slick looking layout for for your Top mount Dust and Chip Collector. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon14.gif

I've used PCV pipe and fitting in and around my Machine for Dust collection for years.
Although some folks worried about static charges building up on the PVC plastic, I haven't had any problems at all.

Thanks for Sharing your Idea and Photos

[fwharris]

Dick,

Great design! I like the "out of the way" design.

Thanks for sharing the pictures and design..

[liquidguitars]

DickB,
looking good!

LG

[karossii]

I know this has probably been covered before, especially since I think I remember reading about it on the forums here a long while ago... but the search feature requires 4 letters minimum so I can't search on 'CFM'.

What would you guys say is a recommended minimum CFM for a good dust collector?

I am shopping them both new and used locally, and finding a lot of the systems out there are half or less of what I expected to need based on my memories from the discussions here oh so long ago. I was thinking 1,000 CFM minimum, preferably double that; but I am seeing professional systems that certainly look like they should be up to the task, rated at only 300 to 600 CFM.

Is my memory that far off? Or is it just a product of my low searches budget yielding inadequate systems?

Thanks!

- Ken Ross

[fwharris]

I know this has probably been covered before, especially since I think I remember reading about it on the forums here a long while ago... but the search feature requires 4 letters minimum so I can't search on 'CFM'.

What would you guys say is a recommended minimum CFM for a good dust collector?

I am shopping them both new and used locally, and finding a lot of the systems out there are half or less of what I expected to need based on my memories from the discussions here oh so long ago. I was thinking 1,000 CFM minimum, preferably double that; but I am seeing professional systems that certainly look like they should be up to the task, rated at only 300 to 600 CFM.

Is my memory that far off? Or is it just a product of my low searches budget yielding inadequate systems?

Thanks!

- Ken Ross

Ken,

For searches put the word of phrase in "quotes" to get past the 4 letter rule..

I have a 1hp 650cfm delta and I'm very statisfied with it's performance of keeping the CW clean with my top mount insert.

If you are planning on hooking up your DC to other tools and use them while the CW is carving I would suggest going to a higher cfm to get the best results.

[karossii]

Thanks, I had just about decided on one very good deal that is 2HP and rated for up to 650CFM... but was worried about that not being enough power.

I do want multiple attachments, but I can easily get by with only running one machine at a time for now, until my budget improves.

[edit] By the way, while it accepts "CFM" as a legal search term, I just tried it (along with 'CFM', "cfm", and 'cfm') and get 0 results. I would think at least this thread would have come up, since I had posted the term 'CFM' in my post you replied to (and quoted)... so that doesn't seem to work.

[DickB]

More is better, but I'm getting satisfactory results with a Dayton machine rated at 300 CFM.

[Smoken D]

I always had a 500 CFM 1HP which did a pretty good job, but was just not quite satisfied. Just recently got a 1 1/2HP rated at 1300 CFM. Believe I will be really satisfied now. And the price sure ain't bad for new $259. Of course I go to Grizzly once a month.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Dust-Collector-with-New-Impeller/G1028Z2

[cnsranch]

Finally got a chance to try out Fredrick's dust collector system. This thing is indeed the final answer. Carved a 36x12 project on a piece of 42x14 barn wood (if you've never tried using barn wood, it's a mess - dirt, soft wood, aged surfaces, etc.) 3.5 hour carve, I never had to stop the machine to clean it out. I swear, it was as clean after the carve as it was before. The pics below are with no cleaning.

Cover was a snap to cut with my band saw. This is a really solid design, tolerances are good, plenty of room for changing bits without sacrificing air movement, etc. The one pic is my attempt to show clearances under the machine - hope it shows ok.

Two words of warning - one, you'll need the proper sanding tools to get the profile Fredrick calls for in the venturi design. Two, you'll also need a way to transfer the profile of the machine to the collector.

I couldn't be more pleased.

Thanks, Fredrick.

[DickB]

Two words of warning - one, you'll need the proper sanding tools to get the profile Fredrick calls for in the venturi design. Two, you'll also need a way to transfer the profile of the machine to the collector.
Gee, if only I had a computer-controlled router, I could carve the airfoil shape and cut a precision profile...

[spalted]

Gee, if only I had a computer-controlled router, I could carve the airfoil shape and cut a precision profile...

....LOL...I almost spit coffee on me keyboard as I read that Dick.

I used a version of the fredrick design, but I didn't use the airfoil. Seems to work fine. I have nothing to compare it with, as this is the first hood I have had.
I keep thinking about posting a photo of it, but I never remember to take the camera out to the shop.

[shotgun 6]

I've attached a few pics of my shop DC system. I use a 1 hp Seco UFO-90 DC and 4" pvc pipe for an overhead system with three drop-downs to connect to the Carvewright, radial arm saw, planer, drum sander and table saw. Due to limited space I have my Carvewright, planeer and durm sander on rollers -- they are not connected to the vacuum system until I'm ready to use them. The radial arm saw is stationary and is connected to the DC all the time. I have cut-off dampers at each drop-down so I can get full vacuum at each site by cutting the other dampers on and off as necessary. My system has three drop downs with a damper on the end which then are extended using flexible dryer aluminum ducting that is connected to the individual equipment. For static electric control I found 18 guage copper wire at Home Depot and screwed 1/2" self-drive sheet metal screws every six inches on the pvc piping and wound the wire around the pvc and screws, tightened the screws. The wire is grounded onto a wter pipe. At the dampers I used an extra lenght of wire towrap around the alumimum flexible hose and clamp on the piece of equipment as I attached them to a vacuum drop.

I had originally planned to have a downdraft system and had already cut a slot in the table that the Carvewright sat on. I ran across Ringneckblues DC adapter on the forum and after getting it I decided to junk the idea of a downdraft but decided to leave the slot open to see what would happen. The Ringneckblues worked so well that I just left the slot open. I think it probably helps some beacuse of a greater flow of air from the bottom.

I spent an entire year before building the above system trying to keep the Carvewright clear of dust but with no success no matter how hard I tried -- and I did try to keep the CW clean. I spent more time cleaning and repairing than I did in carving. The QC is a natural dust colleter and the inability to keep it completely free from all dust caused z-truck and y-truck bearing failure due to putting extra pressuer on the bit adapter removal tool when trying to get the bit and adapter out of the QC. The Rock and Rigneckblues cleared those problems up and its been clear sailing for the past five months.

[rjustice]

Shotgun,
I'm glad to hear you are enjoying the Rock Chuck... I see you made yourself a little reminder about the bit orientation! :)

Happy Carving,

Ron

[fwharris]

Shotgun,

Well done design of your DC system for your shop! Thanks for sharing the pictures and the results of having the insert!!

Happy carving!!!

[CSPURGEON]

Okay well I have been looking at all sorts of designs for dust collection for the CW on the forum, and I have thought of something a little different. After looking over my machine and dust collector last night why hasn't anyone just drilled/bored a hole in the clear cover and used a flexible tubing coming from above to attach directly to the machine? The cover through CW is only $22 with $12 shipping. So I was thinking of trying it, but before I did I wanted to see what everyone else thought first.

To test it a bit I just placed my dust collector outside of the machine near the feed belt and it sucks a lot out as it is. Obviously it would not work there I just thought a simple hole with homemade bracket would allow for upward suction without the mounted systems like posted on here. Any thoughts or experiences with this would be appreciated. I am really sick of vacuuming out my machine every ten to fifteen minutes to make sure it's clean.

[AskBud]

Okay well I have been looking at all sorts of designs for dust collection for the CW on the forum, and I have thought of something a little different. After looking over my machine and dust collector last night why hasn't anyone just drilled/bored a hole in the clear cover and used a flexible tubing coming from above to attach directly to the machine? The cover through CW is only $22 with $12 shipping. So I was thinking of trying it, but before I did I wanted to see what everyone else thought first.

To test it a bit I just placed my dust collector outside of the machine near the feed belt and it sucks a lot out as it is. Obviously it would not work there I just thought a simple hole with homemade bracket would allow for upward suction without the mounted systems like posted on here. Any thoughts or experiences with this would be appreciated. I am really sick of vacuuming out my machine every ten to fifteen minutes to make sure it's clean.

Yes, it might work. However, you need to be sure that the cover can not be pulled out of place by your tubing or the force of the air movement.

There are some threads that show similar ideas as yours.

I tested several different possibilities prior to listing my final "CW-Vacuum Head Project" in the store (check my signature below). It maintains the "Safety" features and does a good job. Your Dust Collector system should be 600 CFM or better to move the air properly.
AskBud

[Frederick_P]

I have uploaded some new PDF files to replace the previous ones. Thanks to Paul Joseph for spotting an error and an omission. Hopefully these did not confuse anyone when they tried to make it! :rolleyes:

[unitedcases]

I definitely like the idea. I think the only way it could be easier and almost fool proof would be to have pieces cut out for all to see.

[lpj1019]

3875538754Here's my DC that I made from Frederick's plans.....I started making it over the past weekend and wouldn't you know it, I get hit with a cold.....so sorry I didn't get these up sooner, Frederick thanks again for all you imput and more importantly thank you for sharing your knowledge.....if anyone needs help building Fredericks design, don't hesitate to contact me for help.....my way of playing it forward.

Paul

[chebytrk]

attachments didn't show up............

[RabidRed]

I am still looking for someone to build it and sell. I want to put in an order now!

[cnsranch]

Red

You own a $2,000 CW and you don't have a sander and a saw?

Building the project was a blast - and super easy (I used the original plans, not sure what the error was).

I do have to admit, having a table saw, a scroll saw, a nail gun and a drum sander made it easy.

[RabidRed]

Don't have a drum sander so if you had a blast how about you doing it and send me the results.....just kidding.

Red

You own a $2,000 CW and you don't have a sander and a saw?

Building the project was a blast - and super easy (I used the original plans, not sure what the error was).

I do have to admit, having a table saw, a scroll saw, a nail gun and a drum sander made it easy.

[fwharris]

I am still looking for someone to build it and sell. I want to put in an order now!

If you are looking for a pre built unit I do make and sell them..

See link in my signature....

[RabidRed]

If you are looking for a pre built unit I do make and sell them..

See link in my signature....
Thanks and it's done!

[fwharris]

Thanks and it's done!

James,
Thanks for the order... I will get er made up and out to you on Friday!!

[RabidRed]

James,
Thanks for the order... I will get er made up and out to you on Friday!!

Thanks, you are a good man. Now to find something to replace my shopvac....

[Dhaffner]

Hey...finally built one of these from the plans presented here and it's excellent!
I carve a great deal of HDU (sign foam) and the dust was everywhere...in fact, I had to blow it out regularly or it would build up to the point that the machine would fail due to buildup on the rails. This means I no longer have to go over every 15-20 minutes and blow it out! What a great working solution! Love it. Thanks for sharing the plans and making an already awesome machine one little piece better.

[Frederick_P]

Paul,
You are more than welcome. Now, if someone with skills in a 3D modeling program and an STL converter would like to take these plans and create MPC files so users could carve the pieces to make the unit easier, then that would be awesome also. Just keep the spirit of providing them free so we can "pay it foreword" Just the curved pieces would need to be carved. I am pretty sure everyone can handle cutting the thin plywood. Any takers?

[Fletcher]

Well, I was going to sell this file online, but since dust collection is one of the VERY first things that should be addressed with your new CW and will solve many headaches, here she be - FREE to all so you can enjoy your new CW even more. I highly recommend doing this as your first carve even. It runs in about 2-3 hours and is a 2 sided carve from any 3/4" thick piece of wood 5.5"x20". After carving you glue the ring to the top of the hole on the large piece so you can clamp a 4" DC hose to it. Then you can use a couple of screws with nuts and washers to "clamp" it in place on your machine using the two existing holes found in the aluminum casting on the front of the head of the machine. You can then cutout your clear cover to go around your hose. Voila... DIY dust collection made easy.

I am providing this file out of wanting you to enjoy your machine from the start. Any damage you may happen do to your machine while executing this project is solely your own doing and I will not be held accountable - you downloading the file means that you agree. This carve has been tested several times without problems.

3892238923

[Fletcher]

Oh, and by the way, THANKS Frederick for starting this thread and "paying it forward".

[Frederick_P]

Fletcher,
Way to go, buddy! This is what I'm talking about! This is what makes this forum such a great community and resource for everyone.

[Fletcher]

Thanks Frederick! Not exactly as per your design but it works the same way. Like I said earlier, thanks for this thread - I know it helped me in the past when I was getting my CW going.

[kool69sporty]

392033920239201I'd like to add my thnx & kudos to Frederick for his DC design. I printed the PDF to scale, transfered to 1/2 popular & band sawed. I didn't worry about airfoil, only round & smooth edges, also went with a side discharge & a lead wire for static electricity bleed. This is a simple design & works well. Thnx, again, Frederick.
Joe

[Frederick_P]

Joe,
An interesting variation. I would be curious to know how much of the dust is collected with the side vacuum setup. My theory is that more dust will be removed the greater the velocity of the air traveling from the cutting bit to the collector hose. I therefore wanted to reduce any restrictions as much as possible, thus the airfoils and the hose connector being positioned as directly inline as possible. It's not just about creating a vacuum in the plenum (the box area that the hose connects to, but also creating a path of least resistance for the air to travel. If air has to turn corners or flow around sharp edges, vortexes can be created that will reduce the velocity of the air traveling across the cutting bit. This is why the design has a curve to get the opening down as close to the bit as possible.

I think another improvement could be a type of adjustable gate that would restrict the opening to the width of the board being carved.

The unit I built removes about 98-99% of the dust produced. If your variation does the same, then I guess I was over thinking the problem. I am happy to help out. CW should be supplying a dust collector of some sort with every unit they sell. Hopefully this will be forthcoming in the future.

[cnsranch]

I know one thing for sure, Frederick...

Remember to remove any and all shop rags you use to cushion the changing of a bit before turning on the DC......the design will suck two of them 40 feet and into the collector like scat through a scared cat http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/16/16_1_8.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000)

[Capt Bruce]

Thanks Jerry,

You just about made me spit coffee all over my keyboard through my nose. Got to be more careful when I sip as I'm reading here. Must be a good DC unit you have at the end there.

[Ike]

I know one thing for sure, Frederick...

Remember to remove any and all shop rags you use to cushion the changing of a bit before turning on the DC......the design will suck two of them 40 feet and into the collector like scat through a scared cat http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/16/16_1_8.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000)


That is hilarious! I see why the Captain almost ruined his computer! I need to make this DC, I am just using the 1 minute DC and it is alright, but I am lazy! Now I need to make Fredricks design, well thanks to Fletcher because I am using his mpc!

Thanks to all this is a great forum!

Ike

[kool69sporty]

Frederick, I especially liked your design with the down curved pickup & I agree 100% with your analysis of velocities & air restriction. I'm sure my collection efficiency is a little less than yours, especially so since I'm using 24" of 2 1/2" hose from the plenum to the 4" collector hose. I even see evidence of the effect of the sharp corners with the dust impaction into the cervice at the joint of the plastic top to the sides. Notice in the photo of the top of the plenum, you will see a buildup of the urethane dust along the left front edge & then just above when the air flow turns down to the flange adapter. I'm thinking of adding internal baffles to smooth those transitions. I may even revisit the whole design a few months from now after I get more experience. I also tried a version of your adjustable "gate" effect by screwing onto the front a plastic nose piece with a slot targeting the carve area above my foam block. That is somewhat visible in the bottom view. I'm adopted the convection of starting my carves 11.5" from the back edge of my 15" long sled & 2" in from the side; whereas it seems like most forum members have gone to centering their project.
Again, all I can say is kudos to you, Mr. Potter, for a very good & simple DC design. Lastly, I didn't try yet to see if it will pull any shop rags thru!
Thnx, Joe

[dunracin]

Frederick: Does this design work as well as the original one you posted? I just received my CW machine and want to do the dust collection first thing.

Butch Matthews

[dunracin]

What size are the two screws that attach it to the CW?

[Frederick_P]

This is essentially the same as the previous version except that there are a couple of errors corrected. I have no idea what the threads are in the carving shelf. I actually re tapped them to accommodate slightly larger bolts of a common thread. The aluminum is quite soft, so be careful you don't over torque the bolts or you may strip the threads. Just a snug fit is all that is needed.

[gwhiz]

Voila... DIY dust collection made easy.

I am providing this file out of wanting you to enjoy your machine from the start. Any damage you may happen do to your machine while executing this project is solely your own doing and I will not be held accountable - you downloading the file means that you agree. This carve has been tested several times without problems.

3892238923

Sweet! I'm carving this next week (buried in Halloween projects at the moment...)

[dunracin]

http://forum.carvewright.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38923&d=1285947670&thumb=1 (http://forum.carvewright.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38923&d=1285947670)

What am I missing here? This looks nothing like the "box" design.

[Frederick_P]

This is a different design that another member posted.

[dunracin]

Thank you, I'll stick with yours!

[Fletcher]

I only posted it because Frederick asked...

[SeaCapt97]

Fletcher,

Tried my new dust collection attachment for the first time today. It works great! I'm collecting at least 98% of the dust. It's even keeping the inside of the cut area clean. I can imagine that keeping the dust out of the carve area helps keep the bit cooler. Also keeps the pressure rollers cleaner which probably slightly improves tracking. I tapped the two holes to #10-32 and found 5/8" long three wing plastic knobs at Ace Hardware for about 80¢ each. Makes nice finished look.

Maybe I'm getting too "deep" but, I like the idea of my Carvewright carving it's own attachment. Makes it a bit more "organic" for me.

F.Y.I. to all. Rockler.com has a 4 1/4" bi metal hole saw on sale for $14.95 with free shipping until the end of November. It's the perfect size for 4" vacuum hose and fittings.

Thank you for sharing this great pattern. It really shows what a great bunch of folks share this site.

Bill

[gwhiz]

I carved Fletcher's design as well. It works great! In fact it's working as I type this.

I used 4.0x25mm socket head screws to attach it to the stock holes in the shelf--I happened to have them from a hobby store purchase. I cut the opening in the door with my jigsaw.

For me, the deciding factor was that I wanted to be able to close the feed table when the CW wasn't in use to shrink the footprint or move it as necessary without removing the DC each time.

I wasn't sure that I wanted my DC running the entire time that the CW was carving. In my basement shop I was concerned with the noise level. The reality for me is that I don't hear the DC at all over the noise of the CW.

My thanks to everyone who has posted their DC designs and ideas! Whatever DC design you go with--do it!

[Fletcher]

Thanks for the comments fellas! And thanks again for this thread Frederick, I'm sure it will help many!

[daeelctric]

Well, I was going to sell this file online, but since dust collection is one of the VERY first things that should be addressed with your new CW and will solve many headaches, here she be - FREE to all so you can enjoy your new CW even more. I highly recommend doing this as your first carve even. It runs in about 2-3 hours and is a 2 sided carve from any 3/4" thick piece of wood 5.5"x20". After carving you glue the ring to the top of the hole on the large piece so you can clamp a 4" DC hose to it. Then you can use a couple of screws with nuts and washers to "clamp" it in place on your machine using the two existing holes found in the aluminum casting on the front of the head of the machine. You can then cutout your clear cover to go around your hose. Voila... DIY dust collection made easy.

I am providing this file out of wanting you to enjoy your machine from the start. Any damage you may happen do to your machine while executing this project is solely your own doing and I will not be held accountable - you downloading the file means that you agree. This carve has been tested several times without problems.

3892238923

Do you have a version of this with an inlet for 2" hose instead? I am having to get by with a shop vac for now instead of a dedicated vacumn system.

[AskBud]

Do you have a version of this with an inlet for 2" hose instead? I am having to get by with a shop vac for now instead of a dedicated vacumn system.
Remember that you could just get a "reducer" to convert from 4" to 2" (Woodcraft and other stores will have them).
caution! A shop vac is not designed to run as long as many of the carving projects!
AskBud

[TerryT]

[caution! A shop vac is not designed to run as long as many of the carving projects![/COLOR]
AskBud

Yep! I burned up a $100 ridgid vaccuum in about 6 months.

[Frederick_P]

I would not recommend using a shop vac for dust collection. Aside from the fact that you will likely burn up your shop vac as they are not designed to run for extended periods of time, they also produce a huge amount of static electricity which could easily fry your electronics. It's not worth the risk. Pony up for a 4" dust collection unit with static control and not only with you have a safer setup but you will also keep your machine cleaner. Save the shop vac for spot cleanups around the shop but don't even use it to clean out your machine after a carve. I have learned the hard way how static electricity can turn a good day into a very disappointing one!

[Fletcher]

... All of what they said. A small DC will run you a little more than a vacuum but will last 10 times longer.

[fwharris]

Do you have a version of this with an inlet for 2" hose instead? I am having to get by with a shop vac for now instead of a dedicated vacumn system.

If you are planning on getting a dust collector in the future (put in on your Christmas list :-) ) but want the benefits of top mount system go with Bud's reducer for the short term. You will need to set up a grounding system and make sure the hose stays away from any of the electronics..

What the others have posted about the shop vac is dead on.

[SharonB]

Thought I'd share my take on Fredrick's topload dust collector. Made a few design changes and have used it for about a month now. I really like the way it removes all the debris especially when doing the corian lithophanes. It's cut my clean up time down to almost nothing. My "box" is not quite as high or as long as Fredrick's but seems to remove 95% or more of the debris.

[pkunk]

While I have and use a 3hp cyclone dust collector, the info posted about Shop Vacs is only partially correct. Your standard run of the mill Shop Vac or generic counterpart in the $75-150 range has a single stage motor/blower. A two stage Shop Vac™ ($250+) will run all day and has a grounded system that produces practically no static. http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-6101210-12-Gallon-2-Stage-Contractor/dp/B0012N35MO/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1335559889&sr=1-6 as an example of one I use on my sanding station hooked to 2- 6" Festool RO sanders for all day no-dust sanding.

[sail]

My machine was loaded with dust and corian chips even though I stopped every 15 minutes and vaced it out, blew it out and wiped it down. I bought the Erwin Products dust devil and hooked it to my shop vac. I found that IF the filter was clean, it would make it through one cutting. Then plug up. Plus it got pretty hot. So I found a good used JET dust collector on Craigs list for $100. and I can run it all day. I also now hook the JET to my other tools and my lungs are no longer the dust collection system for my shop. I'm certain that all of my machines will last longer for having done it. http://www.erwinproducts.com/erwin_products_004.htm

[kroskam]

My machine was loaded with dust and corian chips even though I stopped every 15 minutes and vaced it out, blew it out and wiped it down. I bought the Erwin Products dust devil and hooked it to my shop vac. I found that IF the filter was clean, it would make it through one cutting. Then plug up. Plus it got pretty hot. So I found a good used JET dust collector on Craigs list for $100. and I can run it all day. I also now hook the JET to my other tools and my lungs are no longer the dust collection system for my shop. I'm certain that all of my machines will last longer for having done it. http://www.erwinproducts.com/erwin_products_004.htm

Has anyone tried this one verses the homemade versions? I am wanting to buy a dust collection system, and if I make my own Carvewright adapter as outlined by the previous posts, I can put the $55 for an Erwin Dust Devil towards a dusk collector if the results are similar.

[SteveNelson46]

I have a Jet 650 cfm Dust collector with a Dust Dog canister filter that replaces the cloth bag. I have tried a couple of the homemade dust collector versions that I downloaded from here on the forum and they worked pretty good. I then purchased the sheet metal one from Ringneck blues. It worked VERY good. Then Erwin Products came out with the Dust Devil. Since it was molded all in one piece I had to try it. As it turns out, I had to make a few modifications like closing up the sides to direct the vacuum more towards the board. This worked very well also but, the dust collector form Ringneck Blues did seem to work a little better right out of the box. So that's the one I use.

[fwharris]

I have a Jet 650 cfm Dust collector with a Dust Dog canister filter that replaces the cloth bag. I have tried a couple of the homemade dust collector versions that I downloaded from here on the forum and they worked pretty good. I then purchased the sheet metal one from Ringneck blues. It worked VERY good. Then Erwin Products came out with the Dust Devil. Since it was molded all in one piece I had to try it. As it turns out, I had to make a few modifications like closing up the sides to direct the vacuum more towards the board. This worked very well also but, the dust collector form Ringneck Blues did seem to work a little better right out of the box. So that's the one I use.

Steve,

Thanks for the testimonial and the comparison of the other versions! 8)

[eromran]

Just my opinion,
The RingNeckBlues is simple to install very good quality actualy works great, cheaper than doing it yourself. I would suggest just get one so you can get back to the fun stuff quicker not cleaning up as much and easier on machine. Hope this helps

[mcQ]

I have a Jet 650 cfm Dust collector with a Dust Dog canister filter that replaces the cloth bag. I have tried a couple of the homemade dust collector versions that I downloaded from here on the forum and they worked pretty good. I then purchased the sheet metal one from Ringneck blues. It worked VERY good. Then Erwin Products came out with the Dust Devil. Since it was molded all in one piece I had to try it. As it turns out, I had to make a few modifications like closing up the sides to direct the vacuum more towards the board. This worked very well also but, the dust collector form Ringneck Blues did seem to work a little better right out of the box. So that's the one I use.


Steve,

I seen your post on the CarveWright forum regarding my dust hood vs Ringnecks and I want to let you know from my records you have one of the original Erwin Products dust hoods based on your order date of 4-28-12.
The original units had the extension attached with wing nuts. A couple weeks after your order I completely redesigned the extension (Version C) adding a piece to the front to reduce the opening and greatly increase the air velocity near the cutter. The new version C extension is attached with snap fasteners allowing the extension to be removed and reinstalled in seconds with no tools or loose fasteners allowing for completely open access for bit changes or using the scanning probe. The new unit greatly improved performance and I am sure it now works as well as any on the market.
I want you to know I will send anyone who purchased one of the original units the parts to upgrade to the version C free of charge all I ask is to pay $10.00 to cover shipping Priority mail. Installing the new parts will take less than 2 minutes using the existing tapped holes in the machine.

Erwin
ERWIN PRODUCTS
DUST DEVIL
417-449-7760
http://www.erwinproducts.com/erwin_products_004.htm

[DickB]

Well, I like to build stuff, so I made my own. This is my second iteration. The first was a bit boxy and used a 3" hose. Then I became a believer in smooth airflow in the nozzle, so I adapted a version from earlier in this thread, and made this one with a 4" hose. Everything was made from materials that I had on hand, including the hose connector that came with my dust collector IIRC. The wood parts were leftover scraps. The .mpcs are attached. I cut the lip out with my saw after carving, but you could draw a rectangle around it and cut it out with the CarveWright. I think the pictures should be sufficient to instruct on assembly. The parts are not perfect; I did a little sanding and hand shaping, such as the flare on the inside of the side parts, but not much. The sheet metal is thin aluminum. There are no complex curves; it is really easy to bend. For the lower part, I clamped the end of the sheet metal into my wood vice with a dowel across the edge and bent - it's not hard and not too critical. I did apply a strip of aluminum tape to the leading edge of the lower aluminum piece, but it's not really necessary if you bend a little extra and have some tension on that part when you assemble it. This design works quite well and I'm happy with its performance.

55740 55741 55742

I see I did not get it in the photo, but the nozzle is held in place using the factory threaded holes, a couple of L brackets, and screws. The nozzle sits between the factory holes and is not full width, but this has caused no issue in operation.

55743
55744
55745
55746

[CNC Carver]

Thanks for sharing the patterns for the dust collector. I've been continplating replacing my shopvac sweeper that I use for the dust collection in the carvewright.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Steve,

I seen your post on the CarveWright forum regarding my dust hood vs Ringnecks and I want to let you know from my records you have one of the original Erwin Products dust hoods based on your order date of 4-28-12.
The original units had the extension attached with wing nuts. A couple weeks after your order I completely redesigned the extension (Version C) adding a piece to the front to reduce the opening and greatly increase the air velocity near the cutter. The new version C extension is attached with snap fasteners allowing the extension to be removed and reinstalled in seconds with no tools or loose fasteners allowing for completely open access for bit changes or using the scanning probe. The new unit greatly improved performance and I am sure it now works as well as any on the market.
I want you to know I will send anyone who purchased one of the original units the parts to upgrade to the version C free of charge all I ask is to pay $10.00 to cover shipping Priority mail. Installing the new parts will take less than 2 minutes using the existing tapped holes in the machine.

Erwin
ERWIN PRODUCTS
DUST DEVIL
417-449-7760
http://www.erwinproducts.com/erwin_products_004.htm


From a April Post. #175997


[QUOTE=mcQ;175997]IN AN EFFORT TO TRULY HAVE THE BEST DUST COLLECTOR ACCESSORY AVAILABLE FOR THE CARVEWRIGHT MACHINES, I HAVE NOW ADDED AN REMOVABLE EXTENSION TO THE ERWIN PRODUCTS DUST HOOD. THIS NEW EXTENSION PLACES THE INTAKE VERY CLOSE TO THE CUTTER PROVIDING GREATLY IMPROVED PERFORMANCE WHEN USING SMALLER DUST COLLECTORS OR WHEN CUTTING DIFFICULT MATERIALS SUCH AS PVC SIGN BOARD AND IS EASILY REMOVED FOR BIT CHANGES, ALTHOUGH BITS CAN BE CHANGED WITHOUT REMOVAL. THIS EXTENSION IS INCLUDED WITH ALL NEW ORDERS AND HAS BEEN SENT FREE OF CHARGE TO EVERYONE WHO HAS PURCHASED A UNIT. ALSO, REQUIRES NO ADDITIONAL MODIFICATION TO THE MACHINE, THE UNIT MOUNTS TO THE EXISTING THREADED HOLES WITH TWO 4mm SCREWS INCLUDED.

http://www.erwinproducts.com (http://www.erwinproducts.com/)

Every post you make on this forum is to make money from us. All 13 posts.

You are also very sensitive to any bad press or if someone uses another collector.

We all make choices to purchase by what we read and find. I am just pointing out conflicting information.

The right thing to do if it were "MY" Business would be to send them free as posted in April.

Shipping is a Tax Deductible item on your Business Taxes so you won't really be out the money.

Good Luck,

AL

[mcQ]

I need to set you straight on this issue, I first released my dust hood back in April without any extension because using my 2hp dust collector I was getting almost total dust collection carving wood and didn't think it was necessary. Only about 6 units were sold before it came to my attention I needed to come up with something so it would preform better with smaller dust collectors. I immediately came up with a solution which was the first extension design which was attached with wing nuts. THIS EXTENSION WAS SENT FREE INCLUDING SHIPPING TO THOSE FIRST CUSTOMERS WITHOUT ASKING. The Version C upgrade is a further refinement of the original extension and is now attached using the quick release snap fasteners and also features a part on the front of the extension which increases the air velocity which greatly improved the preformance using smaller dust collectors or a good shop vac. It is the Version C extension I'm offering as a free upgrade to those who recieved the original extensions that were attached with wing nuts. The only thing I ask is for them to pay shipping and no I am not making any money asking $10.00 for shipping, this is about the average cost to ship Priority mail depending on location. If you feel better I will ship the upgrade package for actual cost of shipping. When is the last time anyone offered a free upgrade on anything you purchased?

ERWIN PRODUCTS55763



From a April Post. #175997


[QUOTE=mcQ;175997]IN AN EFFORT TO TRULY HAVE THE BEST DUST COLLECTOR ACCESSORY AVAILABLE FOR THE CARVEWRIGHT MACHINES, I HAVE NOW ADDED AN REMOVABLE EXTENSION TO THE ERWIN PRODUCTS DUST HOOD. THIS NEW EXTENSION PLACES THE INTAKE VERY CLOSE TO THE CUTTER PROVIDING GREATLY IMPROVED PERFORMANCE WHEN USING SMALLER DUST COLLECTORS OR WHEN CUTTING DIFFICULT MATERIALS SUCH AS PVC SIGN BOARD AND IS EASILY REMOVED FOR BIT CHANGES, ALTHOUGH BITS CAN BE CHANGED WITHOUT REMOVAL. THIS EXTENSION IS INCLUDED WITH ALL NEW ORDERS AND HAS BEEN SENT FREE OF CHARGE TO EVERYONE WHO HAS PURCHASED A UNIT. ALSO, REQUIRES NO ADDITIONAL MODIFICATION TO THE MACHINE, THE UNIT MOUNTS TO THE EXISTING THREADED HOLES WITH TWO 4mm SCREWS INCLUDED.

http://www.erwinproducts.com (http://www.erwinproducts.com/)

Every post you make on this forum is to make money from us. All 13 posts.

You are also very sensitive to any bad press or if someone uses another collector.

We all make choices to purchase by what we read and find. I am just pointing out conflicting information.

The right thing to do if it were "MY" Business would be to send them free as posted in April.

Shipping is a Tax Deductible item on your Business Taxes so you won't really be out the money.

Good Luck,

AL

[kool69sporty]

Erwin, you state the Dust Devil is good at "getting almost total dust collection carving wood". How does it do with the difficult stuff, like Corian, PVA, Lexan and HDpoly? These materials leave those big chips that don't move very easily? Does anyone have a comparisn of Floyd's or Erwin's to the any of the other DC hoods on this type of material? Any thoughts on Dan's dust cup for these???

Thnx, Joe

[DickB]

I haven't cut any Corian or PVC board with my latest nozzle, so I can't speak to that. Dan reported good results with his dust cap, but I found it impossible to fit one on a machine with the CarveTight with the recommended longer screw and added washer. While it would be nice to get the big chips out, to my way of thinking that is not essential from a longevity standpoint. It is the fine dust that covers the board sensor, finds its way into the optical encoders, clogs up the bearings, and causes problems.

[mcQ]

Joe,
I have cut quite a bit of PVC sign board with good results and PVC is very difficult because it tends to cling to everything, even making a couple cuts with a saw and it will be clinging to everything in sight. I haven't personally carved any Corian yet, although it is on my list to try as I want to do a lithograph, I have had some customers reporting good results carving Corian. I'm not sure about the other plastics although Lexan and poly can have a tendency to melt. Regardless of what dust hood you go with I would recommend a 2 hp 1500 cfm dust collector the Harbor Freight unit runs on 120 V and if you watch for sales can be purchased for under $200.00 and the American Woodworker magazine I picked up at the show has a coupon that you can buy this unit for $150.00 through 9-10-12 I can mail you mine but will have to hurry to make it before the 10th. The 2hp unit still has a small footprint only 22" x 33" and is on casters so it can be rolled around the shop. Also, if you have other equipment such as a planer you will need the larger unit, I have a 20" planer and my 2hp Grizzly does an excellent job where a smaller portable dust collector I am sure would almost immediately plug up and even if it worked the bag would be full in seconds.


Erwin, you state the Dust Devil is good at "getting almost total dust collection carving wood". How does it do with the difficult stuff, like Corian, PVA, Lexan and HDpoly? These materials leave those big chips that don't move very easily? Does anyone have a comparisn of Floyd's or Erwin's to the any of the other DC hoods on this type of material? Any thoughts on Dan's dust cup for these???

Thnx, Joe

[fwharris]

A couple of pictures of the DC-INSERT with sign foam and acrylic

[bluecobra]

Well, I like to build stuff, so I made my own. This is my second iteration. The first was a bit boxy and used a 3" hose. Then I became a believer in smooth airflow in the nozzle, so I adapted a version from earlier in this thread, and made this one with a 4" hose. Everything was made from materials that I had on hand, including the hose connector that came with my dust collector IIRC. The wood parts were leftover scraps. The .mpcs are attached. I cut the lip out with my saw after carving, but you could draw a rectangle around it and cut it out with the CarveWright. I think the pictures should be sufficient to instruct on assembly. The parts are not perfect; I did a little sanding and hand shaping, such as the flare on the inside of the side parts, but not much. The sheet metal is thin aluminum. There are no complex curves; it is really easy to bend. For the lower part, I clamped the end of the sheet metal into my wood vice with a dowel across the edge and bent - it's not hard and not too critical. I did apply a strip of aluminum tape to the leading edge of the lower aluminum piece, but it's not really necessary if you bend a little extra and have some tension on that part when you assemble it. This design works quite well and I'm happy with its performance.

55740 55741 55742

I see I did not get it in the photo, but the nozzle is held in place using the factory threaded holes, a couple of L brackets, and screws. The nozzle sits between the factory holes and is not full width, but this has caused no issue in operation.

55743
55744
55745
55746

Thanks for the update. I've always considered making an insert to block the inside corners out of the equation but your idea is more elegant and simpler. Thanks!

[kool69sporty]

Erwin & Floyd, thanks much for your replies. Looks like good progress has been made on the DC front including removing the heavier particles.
Joe

[bluecobra]

This is the one I made with the help of this thread and Sketchup. I used 1/2" marine plywood. Ended up using screws to hold it together as wood glue binds very poorly to the surface of marine plywood. Carved the sides and the front angles on the CC. Coated all mating faces with silicon rubber to prevent leaks. Used a 4" elbow from Klingspor's and made a gasket out of some cork sheet I had laying around. Painted it black to make it match the machine better.

[Ropdoc]

Any chance you would share the side profile?

[bluecobra]

Here you go, you might want to make the ends longer and trim as needed after cutting out.

[Ropdoc]

Awesome, Thank you

[tcmia]

Here you go, you might want to make the ends longer and trim as needed after cutting out.
I just built mine using these side pieces. I made it out of 1/2 ply with 1/4 on the top. Top is screwed so that I can change it if needed. Now it has a shop-vac hose that is connected to a 4" to a harbor freight dust collector. I need to get a longer 4" hose. Running a test piece now and what a change. Thanks for the pattern.

[ladjr]

Thats cool send some pictures so we can see how it turned out

[dehrlich]

i'm sure it's on this thread somewhere, but i'm guessing you make the width of this thing what will fit between the screw holes? And that is wide enough to get the chips when it's cutting closer to the sides?

[DickB]

That's what I did.

[bluecobra]

I just built mine using these side pieces. I made it out of 1/2 ply with 1/4 on the top. Top is screwed so that I can change it if needed. Now it has a shop-vac hose that is connected to a 4" to a harbor freight dust collector. I need to get a longer 4" hose. Running a test piece now and what a change. Thanks for the pattern.
You're welcome on the pattern, glad it worked out for you.
Regarding the dust collector, have you considered building a Thien baffle/pre-separator? I have one hooked up to my 1hp dc and it's amazing.

[bluecobra]

i'm sure it's on this thread somewhere, but i'm guessing you make the width of this thing what will fit between the screw holes? And that is wide enough to get the chips when it's cutting closer to the sides?
That's the way I did it. It catches a good portion of the side dust quite easily. The biggest dust build-up is during cut-outs when the dust falls through and creates a pile in between the belts.
Didn't think about it until I read your post... If somebody wanted to, they could make a removable top on the dust collector being discussed here and mount the brackets and screws on the INSIDE of the side walls, expanding the intake width 1/2 inch or more depending on thickness of wood used. I doubt the disruption to the airflow would be of any concern.
UPDATE: Just went and looked at my compucarve, you might have to cut an angled notch to be able go over where the front wall starts curving upwards.

[dehrlich]

57727

I made a version of this dust collector insert this afternoon. Does anyone think that I'm going to have a problem with static using just this short length of PVC? (24"). I plan to make a better one after I get through the Christmas rush.

[chief2007]

I would recommend running a ground wire with any DC insert.

I think you will get some static build up so better safe than sorry

[DickB]

I'd ground the machine to the dust collector.

[dehrlich]

I'd ground the machine to the dust collector.

Dust collector is in the corner of the shop. Will just ground to a metal lumber rack nearby.

[luckettg]

When setting up grounds, be wary of creating grounding loops. I worked for many years as a Controls Engineer and those are very common problems. Ground loops can develop enough power to fry your circuit boards.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)

[dehrlich]

Hey I wonder if that is happening in my shop! I spent $1200 to have an electrician upgrade the electric in my shop, 5 new circuts, better lights, lots of outlets etc. Now I can only get one station on my radio and even it has static sometimes. In a wood structure so that shouldn't be the problem and it used to work ok. I hope not, cause he isn't allowed back in my house after he charged me 30% more than the estimate, did a poor job with the trim and even broke a couple projects in my shop being careless. Even went to court and won on the overcharge, but not the $800 in damages he did. Anyway, luckettg, any comments?

[luckettg]

Only that I would have a qualified electrician check out your electrical system. You might also have poor connections which will generate RF and heat up sometimes enough to be a fire hazard.

[dehrlich]

Ok will do. Also noticed that if I have CW running and I turn table saw on the CW drags down, shouldn't do that when on different circuits I would think.

[luckettg]

How independent those circuits are should be questioned as well as poor connections will do the same thing. It is beginning to make me believe your electrician really was not one. You might pick up "Wiring A House" by Rex Cauldwell. It is an excellent source of information and has lots of pictures. A link that I have found useful is http://www.faqs.org/faqs/electrical-wiring/part1/preamble.html. Since you are probably not an electrician I also suggest that you do not do more than just look at the wiring as it can be very dangerous to the novice. What I am giving you these sources for is to be able to discuss with an electrician to know if they are good or full of BS. When I had the power upgraded in my house and shop I could have done it myself but I really wanted a Master to make sure it was all as it should be. Too much at stake for me to take un-needed risk.

[Digitalwoodshop]

The CW operating on a Single Phase of your power could find the Table Saw on the Same Side or Same Phase if it is also a 115 Volt unit. 220 Volt would pull from both sides or both phases. So you could move the CW OR Table Saw Circuit Breaker down One Slot in the power panel. That would put the CW and Saw on different Phases.

Like posted a above, your shop may have limited Current avaliable... A Electrician should evaluate the problem.

AL

[Northwoods Woodcrafter]

I made the dust collector project from the store. What is the trick to removing the plastic viewing lid so I can cut a hole in it?

Pete

[dehrlich]

When I did mine, I didn't remove the cover. I put the collector in place and marked the width needed. Then measure the height, make a mark on each side, then square across. I stuffed a towel inside the machine and used a cut off wheel on a Dremel to cut it. The plastic will melt, so you gotta go slow. Once you get through, break all the boogers off, sand a little and check fit. Doesn't have to be perfect but close is nice. Be careful you don't break the little tabs off that trip the switchs like I did or you gotta try to super glue back on.

[badbert]

I clamped a board to the front of mine to use as a guide. And then used my multitool. http://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-multifunction-power-tool-67537.html Made quick work of it, too! No mess and no melt.

[Northwoods Woodcrafter]

Thanks! I thought I was missing something simple about removing the lid. I'll use my dremel.

BTW... How do you guys like the DC? My ClearVue 1800 has been arriving in pieces.

Pete

[dehrlich]

I built mine using the side profiles from this thread, then kinda engineered my own way of doing the rest. It works great, gets 98% of the debris.