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myshop1044
11-04-2009, 01:46 PM
Hi there folks, it's been a long time since I have been on the fourm.
my question is I want to carve a 1/16" deep region on the back of some clear plexiglass, will the bottom of the region be clear or frosty. I want to be able to put picture in the region so you can see it from the other side. This will be set of 4" coasters when I complete them.
Does any body have any experiance with this method?

nice to be back
Myshop

JMD
11-04-2009, 03:09 PM
I can just about positive that you will not be able to see through it. I worken in a machine shoe and I have never seen it come out clear. If you want, you can spent a lit of time polishing it, but I don't think it's worth it.

cnsranch
11-04-2009, 03:42 PM
Nice to "see" you, myshop.

Plexiglass will melt - melt is bad.

Use cast acrylic.

The bottom will be frosty.

want2b
11-04-2009, 07:32 PM
Not sure if this applies but I seem to remember that some of the acrylics can be heated where they have been 'cut' by using a small 'torch' and the frost will disappear/melt. Have used a small buttane torch on several pieces and had some success in clearing up the visual, just not knowledgeable enough to tell which types I was working with. My thought was to give it a try and what was the worst that could happen?
Rick H.

hogiewan
11-05-2009, 07:34 AM
Both were mentioned, but I think your options are the melt method with a torch or carve a mold and pour acrylic or some clear resin.

Woodhacker
11-05-2009, 07:42 AM
At one of the sign shops I used to work at, we made quite a lot of routed acrylic name plates. In order to "shine up" the routed sides, we would use a small torch. Just kinda went around the sides and it cleared up the cloudiness real well. Hope this helps.

myshop1044
11-05-2009, 09:14 PM
Thanks again fellows on the plexiglass question, but it appears to be too much trouble to deal with.

But I do have a new question. I brought in a state pattern and then I was able to outline the pattern and using a 60deg bit ,a 1/32 deep I was able to draw the outline of the state ,later I deleted the pattern it self. This give me the ablity to draw any state rather than carve them.

With all that said, I'm looking at do this with letters. I tried using the text feature, but I don't was to carve a letter I want to trace out the letter. It would appear that I would need a pattern for each letter in some kind of font in or do this.
Does any body have a set of patterns for (any font) letters?
Any suggestion on how I might do this would be helpful, put on your thinking caps and let me know.

Myshop

fwharris
11-05-2009, 09:23 PM
Thanks again fellows on the plexiglass question, but it appears to be too much trouble to deal with.

But I do have a new question. I brought in a state pattern and then I was able to outline the pattern and using a 60deg bit ,a 1/32 deep I was able to draw the outline of the state ,later I deleted the pattern it self. This give me the ablity to draw any state rather than carve them.

With all that said, I'm looking at do this with letters. I tried using the text feature, but I don't was to carve a letter I want to trace out the letter. It would appear that I would need a pattern for each letter in some kind of font in or do this.
Does any body have a set of patterns for (any font) letters?
Any suggestion on how I might do this would be helpful, put on your thinking caps and let me know.

Myshop

Try setting up your text in raster. After you get the text sized and positioned, select the "outline tool" and assign your bit and depth. then delete the text. that will leave just the outline.

myshop1044
11-05-2009, 09:59 PM
Thanks you FWHarris, that was too simple, I don't know why I didn't see that before. I guess sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees or you'r looking for a hard answer when a simple one will work well.

thanks again

Myshop1044

fwharris
11-05-2009, 10:05 PM
Thanks you FWHarris, that was too simple, I don't know why I didn't see that before. I guess sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees or you'r looking for a hard answer when a simple one will work well.

thanks again

Myshop1044

Glad it worked for you! :D

Chief
11-12-2009, 08:30 PM
At one of the sign shops I used to work at, we made quite a lot of routed acrylic name plates. In order to "shine up" the routed sides, we would use a small torch. Just kinda went around the sides and it cleared up the cloudiness real well. Hope this helps.

Woodhacker,

By "small torch", do you mean something like a soldering torch with a 1 lb propane bottle?

Chief

HighTechOkie
11-13-2009, 07:03 AM
To flame polish acrylic, most shops use a oxy/hydrogen (HHO) torch. Hydrogen burns clean and hot. Propane and butane are relatively dirty gases and can pass that into the melting acrylic leaving a slightly foggy polish.

I have seen a few flame polishers on ebay for around $500-$700. There have been a couple group buys on sawmillcreek for around $350-$400 I think.

Rob

Woodhacker
11-13-2009, 08:11 AM
...use an HHO setup. The gas yous in the rig has to be very clean burning. Otherwise you will screw up your acrylic. Unfortunately, the things are very expensive. That is why you usually only find them in commercial shops. :( Hope this helps.

Chief
11-16-2009, 12:24 AM
Rob & Richard,

I have a good propane torch that I use for plumbing but HHO starting at $350 is a bit much. Before I spend that kind of money, I'll try a heat gun. It may not work as fast but it'll be clean.

Chief