Trying the ROCK!

[bjbethke]

The carving of the clock was the last carving I made with the CW QC, when cleaning the machine I noticed the lower right Z-Truck bearing movement was rough. The carving turned out OK, but since I purchased a ROCK QC three months ago, I though I would try the rock out.

Not sure if that was a mistake – I have always felt if it works don’t fix it.

The Z unit was an overhaul replacement about a year ago. I think some one used an “Over Kill” on the Locktite. I have a 1200 watt heat gun. I had to use a lot of heat to remove the CW QC, I did use the ½ inch rod trick, but it took several heat tries to break it loose, it kind of messed up the QC. (Image one). :( It was in good shape. It looks like it is beyond repair now.

The Rock QC I purchased has more vibration then my old CW QC. Not sure why yet but the first carving are very rough. I have the ½ inch rock with the 1/4th and 1/8th inch insert.

I am rechecking the adjustments and will make a second test run. The flex shaft and the Z-truck stay at room temperature. (No heat at all) The vibration is a steady noise. (Louder than the CW QC was) The Crank Handle ball spins and the movement of the flex shaft is about a steady 1/32nd of an inch. Not sure if is from the rock or the Z-Truck shaft bearings. They spin OK by hand and the four Vertical rod bearing are replaced and rotate with the movement of the Z-Truck smoothly, and are not loose (no movement) and the assembly was taken apart and completely cleaned.

The Duck MPC was made with the Carving Bit only ¼ inch bit.

The backside – “Hickory Hill WoodShop”- was made with a 90* ½ inch shaft bit.

[PCW]

BJ,

Could the spindle of gotten damaged during the removal of the QC? Is the spindle getting hot?

[DocWheeler]

Bj,

Did you remove the "T" handled allen wrench?:mrgreen:

[cnsranch]

Bj,

Did you remove the "T" handled allen wrench?:mrgreen:

Now THAT's funny!!!

[bjbethke]

[QUOTE=PCW;106479]BJ,
No the spindle is not getting hot it stays at room Temperature. It spins smoothly with the flex shaft remove, and the weight of the rock it will make three to four rounds before it winds down. No drag or play on the spindle, does not look like the spindle is bad. I do have a spare CW QC, but I would like to see if I can get the Rock working first.

I now have a problem with the cover. The little keepers that hold the clear cover on fell off. I may need to epoxy that back on - the part that holds the screws in the black part of the cover cracked and will not hold the screws. It is giving me an "Open Cover" problem. I have some straw grass growing in the back yard, may epoxy that in to make bearings to hold the shaft on that part of the cover. Plastic tubing may work also.

It’s been raining here so I can’t cut wood, lots of time to do clean up work, having fun.



It’s been raining here so I can’t cut wood, lots of time to do clean up work, having fun.

[bjbethke]

Bj,

Did you remove the "T" handled allen wrench?:mrgreen:
That would just give me a simple error message. When I was removing the carving bit, I was holding the insert and the bit fell out, went through the downdraft slot into the pluming of the DC. I need to put some collars on that bit; it could make a mess of the bit or the DC if it was running.

[Digitalwoodshop]

In my opinion the ROCK is not at fault.... It's a bearing issue with the Truck... Looking at the wood fibers left on the leading edge of the carve region tells me the bit is dull...

If you grab the tip of the bit and do the QC Shuffle... Or the pull in every direction to see if you get any tip of bit movement, what do you get? Any movement?

A loose Z Truck up down bearing can cause problems as can a Y Truck bearing. The QC Shuffle can point out this problem....

A missing Damper Ring can do this....

I would replace the Truck and install the ROCK on the new truck.

AL

[bjbethke]

In my opinion the ROCK is not at fault.... It's a bearing issue with the Truck... Looking at the wood fibers left on the leading edge of the carve region tells me the bit is dull...

If you grab the tip of the bit and do the QC Shuffle... Or the pull in every direction to see if you get any tip of bit movement, what do you get? Any movement?

A loose Z Truck up down bearing can cause problems as can a Y Truck bearing. The QC Shuffle can point out this problem....

A missing Damper Ring can do this....

I would replace the Truck and install the ROCK on the new truck.

AL
Thanks AL, I did check the bit tip there is no movement in any direction. I do check the Y and Z truck bearings often, which is how I found the lower right Z bearing was bad. That was when I decided to try the Rock QC I had for three months. I was hoping the CW QC would come off easy. It was carving OK on the Clock with the old QC. The Damper Ring is still in place.

I redid all the adjustments again, but I need to fix the cover before I can make another test run. Thanks everyone.

[rjustice]

Thanks AL, I did check the bit tip there is no movement in any direction. I do check the Y and Z truck bearings often, which is how I found the lower right Z bearing was bad. That was when I decided to try the Rock QC I had for three months. I was hoping the CW QC would come off easy. It was carving OK on the Clock with the old QC. The Damper Ring is still in place.

I redid all the adjustments again, but I need to fix the cover before I can make another test run. Thanks everyone.

Hi BJB,
Sorry to just jump in here. I have been quite busy, and missed this thread somehow... This is the very first problem showing carve quality problems, or vibration problems... Something is definetly wrong... If you would, please post a picture of the Rock chuck installed on the machine. it appears to be a severe runout problem. This would explain both the noise, as well as the finish problems.. The way i produce the chucks, it is nearly impossible for there to be a runout, or balance issue.

A few things to verify:

Is it possible that you replaced the screw with something different?... The screw type, size and length affects the balance, and must be replaced with the exact same screw.

When the bit is tightened up in the Rock chuck, is the arc on the clamp nut flush with the outside of the bit adapter?... (this indicates proper clamp)..

Is the Locking collar screwed onto the machine spindle with the large steped diameter up?... Can you see a small gap between the spindle housing and the head of the Locking collar?

When you screwed the bit adapter into the locking collar, did you end up with a small gap between the locking collar and the head of the bit adapter?

I think that either the clamp nut is not engaged correctly, which would allow the bit to slip, and would leave it sticking out of the bit adapter significantly, which would throw the balance off a large amount...... Or.... The bit adapter is not seated up in the spindle, and bottoming out on the face of the spindle correctly.

Feel free to post your feedback here, or you can email me directly by clicking on the bottom link in my signature.... One way or the other, I guarantee you will be happy with your purchase!

Thanks sincerely for your business!

Ron

[bjbethke]

Hi BJB,
Sorry to just jump in here. I have been quite busy, and missed this thread somehow... This is the very first problem showing carve quality problems, or vibration problems... Something is definetly wrong... If you would, please post a picture of the Rock chuck installed on the machine. it appears to be a severe runout problem. This would explain both the noise, as well as the finish problems.. The way i produce the chucks, it is nearly impossible for there to be a runout, or balance issue.

A few things to verify:

Is it possible that you replaced the screw with something different?... The screw type, size and length affects the balance, and must be replaced with the exact same screw.

When the bit is tightened up in the Rock chuck, is the arc on the clamp nut flush with the outside of the bit adapter?... (this indicates proper clamp)..

Is the Locking collar screwed onto the machine spindle with the large steped diameter up?... Can you see a small gap between the spindle housing and the head of the Locking collar?

When you screwed the bit adapter into the locking collar, did you end up with a small gap between the locking collar and the head of the bit adapter?

I think that either the clamp nut is not engaged correctly, which would allow the bit to slip, and would leave it sticking out of the bit adapter significantly, which would throw the balance off a large amount...... Or.... The bit adapter is not seated up in the spindle, and bottoming out on the face of the spindle correctly.

Feel free to post your feedback here, or you can email me directly by clicking on the bottom link in my signature.... One way or the other, I guarantee you will be happy with your purchase!

Thanks sincerely for your business!

Ron
Thanks Ron, I rechecked the adjustments on both the Y and Z trucks, I made sure they were adjusted to a point where they rolled along the rails and were tightened to just that point and the bearings would not slip on the rails. There is no play in the truck assembles. And no movement with the bit tip, with the flex shaft removed all movement is free and no roughness in the spindle. Here are a few images of the QC installed. Only the parts that were sent to me were used.

I have not been able to make another test run. I am trying to repair the CW machines top cover, the screws that hold the keepers on the clear part of the cover pulled out. The mounting holes cracked, I’ll send another post with photos to show what I mean. It may be a cause of the “Close Cover” errors, when these keepers get loose the cover switches will not work right.

Thanks again

Bill

[rjustice]

could you take one more pic of that shows the locknut (the side oppisite of the the hex where you insert the "T" handle)... I want to make sure it is flush on the back side...

Thanks,

Ron

[bjbethke]

could you take one more pic of that shows the locknut (the side oppisite of the the hex where you insert the "T" handle)... I want to make sure it is flush on the back side...

Thanks,

Ron
There looks like there are a few threds left on the end.

[bjbethke]

I am trying to repair the CW machines top cover, the screws that hold the keepers on the clear part of the cover pulled out. The mounting holes cracked; here are some photos to show what I mean. It may be a cause of the “Close Cover” errors, when these keepers get loose the cover switches will not work right.

I was thinking of using some Epoxy to make new mounts to hold that part of the cover. The keepers were there so the cover could be removed.

I was thinking of putting some small plastic boots on the clear cover shafts and fill that space with epoxy, but then I would not be able to remove that part of the cover.

I could buy a new cover, but that cost money. The machine is less than two years old.

I’m open to any ideas anyone?

[liquidguitars]

spindle or a loose z motor to z truck? you will need to remove the z motor to get at the screws 2 ea.

or even a cracked truck housing the cracks sometimes are very hard to see but will make a lot of vibration until you get a fail and the sleeve drops.

With the 1/4 adapters make sure you tighten the Rock's set screw like a mofo. :cool:

Also check the adapters position to the chucks and caving bit flats.

LG

[PCW]

BJ

The one thing that sticks out to me is the bit doesn't seem to be inserted as deep as it should be. I put my bit stops right above the flutes.

Also see this tread for a explanation of how the bits and adapters should be inserted in the chuck. It explains the alignment of the flat spot on the bit in relation to the chuck. http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...626#post106626

[rjustice]

Dan is correct.... Everything looks correct except that the bit is sticking out excessively long. I would choke up on the bit, to try it again. I also like Brandon's suggestion of looking closely for a crack on the spindle housing... and also making sure the clamp screw is tightend securely... There is definitely something wrong here. I dont think that it is the chuck, but if you dont find the problem, and would like to exchange the chuck for a new one i will gladly do so.

Let me know if you wish to do so..

Ron

[PCW]

I am trying to repair the CW machines top cover, the screws that hold the keepers on the clear part of the cover pulled out. The mounting holes cracked; here are some photos to show what I mean. It may be a cause of the “Close Cover” errors, when these keepers get loose the cover switches will not work right.
I’m open to any ideas anyone?

BJ,

I will throw a couple idea's at you for replacing the mounting post.

You could always use a piece of bronze round stock or hard plastic if you can find it and drill a hole in the center and epoxy. Might be able to use a bronze bushing. Maybe even a piece of hardwood dowel cut to length and epoxy.

This should be a easy fix.

[forqnc]

Sorry your having problems BJ, but I was curious if nobody else is concerned about the QC you removed, to melt it to this point, has to have dissapaited heat through the Z-truck and possible bearing damage.