Newbie Rock Chuck Question

[Shacky]

My machine is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I am a total newbie. I have read about the rock chuck and don't know enough to have a good opinion on getting it.

My question is: Should I order one right away? Is it that much on an improvement that I should not fool around and just get one?

If you'd prefer, feel free to PM me your response.

Thanks!

[cnsranch]

Every post I've read from those who now own the Rock have nothing but great things to say about it.

That said, I haven't gone to the dark side :mrgreen: still using the original QC that came with my machine.

I'm very pleased with the results my machine puts out, and really have no reason to change.

So, I guess I'd recommend that you stay with the machine as is, and if you experience problems, then make the change.

But, if my QC ever scroos the pewch, I'll be calling Ron.

[Steven Alford]

I would make the change NOW before you use the original QC and cause any vibration damage. There are some people out there (myself included) that were able to get a lot of carve time on the QC without causing any problems, but why take the chance on something that we all now is not a good product.

[DocWheeler]

Actually, if you happen to get a balanced QC or balance it yourself, they work very well. I have a balanced QC and a Rock.

[Griz64]

That is exactly what I did. I ordered it before I even got my machine because of all the great things I read. I decided I wanted to see for myself if there was any improvement so I ran a quick 30 minute carve with the QC then changed to the RC and ran the same carve. Not really sure I could tell a quality difference but the noise was greatly reduced. I love my RC so far and would highly recommend it. I hope this helps in some way

[Rick P]

I had some good times with the QC, but also had some very bad times. The ROCK is easier to use and quieter. I altered my QC to make it more balanced, which led to the good times. If you happen to get an unbalanced QC it will cause all sorts of problems. My hand crank with the QC would vibrate quite a bit...now with the Rock, no vibration and the flex shaft stays cooler. My opinion is that the QC is not the best design for such a high rpm operation.

[Rick P]

btw ... rumor has it that LHR is coming out with a new churck ... veeeerrrrry interesting !!!

[Shacky]

Ok, after the episode I had today with my bit breaking, I am thinking a Rock Chuck is a good idea.

I bought the full set of CW bits. What size do I order from Ron, 1/2 or 1/4?

[dbfletcher]

The most versitile configuration is the 1/2 rock with the 1/4 and 1/8 inch inserts. (the 1/8 is only need if you are goig to buy bits with 1/8 shafts... such as rjustice sells.)

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[Fletcher]

I found that with the QC my flex shaft got warm - not hot, but warm enough. Then if I tried to remove a bit from the qc without the tool(bare hands), the bits were really hot. Now, with the Rock, the flex shaft stays at room temp(to the touch at least) and the bits are barely warm when I remove them. Also, the bit adapters from the QC show some pretty serious wear after only a few carves which indicates to me that the bit and the adapter were moving around slightly within the QC(ie: run-out). Once you see how the Rock is made it's very quick to see why it is superior.

It will be interesting to see the new chuck from LHR when it is ready... They should just source the Rock directly from Ron since it already has a proven track record, both with the Carvewright, and with regular everyday routers(eliminator is the name for that chuck I believe).

[Shacky]

The most versitile configuration is the 1/2 rock with the 1/4 and 1/8 inch inserts. (the 1/8 is only need if you are goig to buy bits with 1/8 shafts... such as rjustice sells.)

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

I can buy the 1/8 inch insert when and if I buy some of Ron's bits. But to be able to use all of the CW bits I have, I need the Rock Kit #1 (1/2 inch) and the 1/2 to 1/4 adapter?

[dbfletcher]

Correct. The 1/2 Rock with 1/4 insert will allow you to use all the CW bits.

Doug Fletcher

[Shacky]

One more question. I bought my machine from Sears with the extended warranty.

Will installing an after-market chuck affect my warranty?

[dbfletcher]

To be super safe you can call lhr and ask for something in writting... but the most os the posts i've seen quotes lhr staff/reps say it shouldn't affect the warrenty.

I think regardless it will always be on a "case by case" basis.

Doug Fletcher

[eromran]

One more question. I bought my machine from Sears with the extended warranty.

Will installing an after-market chuck affect my warranty?"NO it won't"

[Shacky]

I just ordered my Rock.

According to an email I got today from Carvewright support:

"I don’t have any information about a new quick change coming out from Carvewright, and you won’t void your warranty if you replace the quick change for the rock chuck but we don’t support that product."

[hess]

I just ordered my Rock.

According to an email I got today from Carvewright support:

"I don’t have any information about a new quick change coming out from Carvewright, and you won’t void your warranty if you replace the quick change for the rock chuck but we don’t support that product."

have to keep a copy of that

[Pratyeka]

I just ordered my Rock.

According to an email I got today from Carvewright support:

"I don’t have any information about a new quick change coming out from Carvewright, and you won’t void your warranty if you replace the quick change for the rock chuck but we don’t support that product."

That's as clear as can be. Thanks!

[Wilbur]

I have a sears CC and it is in Texas now for repair. I took my Rock off and put the QC back on.
Don't want to take a chance.
Been gone now for two weeks and got a call from them today saying that they had to order parts from factory and that it is going to be Nov before I get it back.
Looks like I may need two machines . Got 418 hr on this one with no problems after I got the Rock.

Wilbur

[rjustice]

I just ordered my Rock.

According to an email I got today from Carvewright support:

"I don’t have any information about a new quick change coming out from Carvewright, and you won’t void your warranty if you replace the quick change for the rock chuck but we don’t support that product."

Hi Shacky,
If you wouldnt mind, i would love to have a copy of that email. You can forward to rj@cw-parts.com

This question has been asked of me at least a hundred times, and until now there hasnt been anything in writing.

Thanks Much!

Ron

[dbfletcher]

Ya, it would be nice of someone from LHR with authority would just post that statement on the forum.

Doug Fletcher

[Shacky]

Hi Shacky,
If you wouldnt mind, i would love to have a copy of that email. You can forward to rj@cw-parts.com

This question has been asked of me at least a hundred times, and until now there hasnt been anything in writing.

Thanks Much!

Ron

What's it worth to ya?

Just kidding, it's on the way.

[skeeterman]

just installed my rock chuck, and i am impressed, was going to hold of until qc went bad but could not stand waiting so i changed it. it improved the quality of my carve by quite a bit , compared same finished parts using both chucks and was very impressed.
steve

[rjustice]

What's it worth to ya?

Just kidding, it's on the way.

Got it Shacky.... Thank you very much!

Ron

[Shacky]

Got my RockChuck in todays mail. Quick shipping, thanks Ron.

It was easy to install, I just followed along Ron's video and had it installed in 20 minutes or less and I was taking my time.

I have two questions.

1. The new carving bit has a flat spot on on side leading me to believe there is a right way and wrong way to install it. Is that so and if so, how do you tell? And how far do you slide your bits into the RC?

2. Now I have to remove all my rout bits from their QC adapters. How do you get them out? I tried the allen wrench and it just kind of clicked and felt like it skipped and did nothing except start to strip out the allen slot. On one bit, the allen screws actually came out, but the bit feels like it is still quite tight. I realize that this may take a bit of patience and elbow grease, but I'm wondering what the right process is.

Thanks!

Scott

[jab73180]

shacky,
the flat spots are for the qc adapter, they dont mean anything on the rock. there needs to be 1 1/2" sticking out of the end for the carving and cutting bit. i made a jig to measure the length. all the other bits dont have to stick out so far, but again just make a jig so they all stick out the same, maybe 3/4". do some research on that, im not sure. you need to use heat to soften the locktite on the allen head screws, it doesnt need to much. if you have stripped the allen heads then a good set of vise grips are in order. any more questions and any one on the forum would be happy to help you.

[Digitalwoodshop]

If you lock the bit on the flat spot of the bit you risk it coming loose.... NEVER lock it on the flat spot...

I use the locking rings on my bits and took the Rock Screw out and looked if I spin the bit can I lock the bit on a flat spot at the depth setting I was using on the locking ring. One bit, the 1/8 bit, I could so I moved the locking ring to just prior to the flutes and I was good.

As for getting the screws out of the bit holders, I used a small crack torch and vice grips on the allen head.

Then had to heat the holder and while placed on a deep socket used a punch to tap the bit thought the holder with a punch.


Good Luck,

AL

[AskBud]

If you do not have a torch, just place the bit & adapter on a pie pan and then put it in the oven for about 20 minutes at 400 degrees.
AskBud

[Shacky]

Thanks again for all the info. I did use a micro torch on the bit adapter screws and it helps alot. Once I got the screws out I squirt a little WD40 in the holes and even put a little heat on the end of the bit.

I used my bench vise and closed it just enough so that the adapter would sit on top and the bit would hang free. I then knocked the bits through (after I turned the bench vise so the bits would only fall a few inches onto wood.)

I have over half done. Now, what will be my first project using my new RC?

[rjustice]

Got my RockChuck in todays mail. Quick shipping, thanks Ron.

It was easy to install, I just followed along Ron's video and had it installed in 20 minutes or less and I was taking my time.

I have two questions.

1. The new carving bit has a flat spot on on side leading me to believe there is a right way and wrong way to install it. Is that so and if so, how do you tell? And how far do you slide your bits into the RC?

2. Now I have to remove all my rout bits from their QC adapters. How do you get them out? I tried the allen wrench and it just kind of clicked and felt like it skipped and did nothing except start to strip out the allen slot. On one bit, the allen screws actually came out, but the bit feels like it is still quite tight. I realize that this may take a bit of patience and elbow grease, but I'm wondering what the right process is.

Thanks!

Scott

Thanks to the guys that jumped in to help Scott...

Hi Scott,
When you insert either a tool, or sleeve, please point either the slit in the sleeve, or the flat on the tool towards the hex in the clamp screw. (this is where you insert the "T" handle to tightnen up or loosen the bits).. This will insure that you are clamping in the optimum spot (not on a slit, and not on a flat)... If you happen to clamp in one of the flats, it can kick up a small burr on the clamp nut that will cause the clamp to not want to release properly. If this happens, simply remove the screw from the clamp nut, and push it out with the "T" handle wrench through the screw hole. If it has a big burr on it you may have to use something to tap on the "T" handle. Once you get it out, just take a file and work the burr off, then re assemble. The clamp nut should slide in freely. You can then slide a tool up into the bit adapter, and rotate the clamp nut until it engages the tool. You will know it is correct when the arc that is ground on the outside of the clamp nut is flush with the outside of the bit adapter. You can then put the screw back into the locknut, and tighten up as usual.
If you ever run into a situation where the bit doesnt want to release, just loosen up the screw one or two full turns, and push on the head of the screw with the "T" handle... This will always push the locknut back to allow for removal. If it is really stubborn, just tap on the head of the screw...

As far as removing the bits, the only thing i would add is that when you get the bits out they will likely have some locktite residue on them. You can take fine sandpaper, or scotchbrite to get the residue buffed off. If you dont do this, it can make the bits feel tight in the Rock Chuck bore.

If you stick the carving bit out abut 1-1/4 that is sufficient. The 1/8 cutout bit you can choke up on a little more to 1" if you are cutting through 3/4" stock. Remember the machine will only carve .8 deep now, so anything over an inch is really just making your tool setup less rigid.


If you have any questions about this... Please feel free to contact me...

Happy Carving,

Ron

[earlyrider]

To remove the bit from the adapter, you can grab the setscrew with a vicegrip or a vice and use a channel lock pliers to unscrew it. If the bit won't slide out after the setscrews are removed, you can use a punch and vice to drive the bit out; just make sure to have something underneath to catch the bit when it exits the adapter. Once the bit is free, acetone will dissolve ane remaining threadlocker .
Ron

[Shacky]

Another RockChuck question:

I am doing my first carve with the RC and it uses several bits. When it asks for the 3/8 classical, I put it in and it says that the bit depth is not what is expected. So, I loosen the bit and try it first up nice and tight in the chuck, then down a hair, but I still get the same message. I could tell it to continue but I wanted to try and get rid of the message.

I didn't have any problem when the machine was setting up for the project, just when it actually got to the bit in the carve.

So, what do I do?

[dbfletcher]

Another RockChuck question:

I am doing my first carve with the RC and it uses several bits. When it asks for the 3/8 classical, I put it in and it says that the bit depth is not what is expected. So, I loosen the bit and try it first up nice and tight in the chuck, then down a hair, but I still get the same message. I could tell it to continue but I wanted to try and get rid of the message.

I didn't have any problem when the machine was setting up for the project, just when it actually got to the bit in the carve.

So, what do I do?

A lot of Rock users use some type of collar on there bits so the measurements will be that same.. That is what the machine is telling you.. that the measurement at the start of the project isn't what it sees when it actually want to use the bit. That being said, you can safely just choose continue and be on your way. If you search the forum you will find lots of posts about this subject. The second measurment is what the machine actually uses.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[Shacky]

Got it. Thanks.

[ddouglass]

Would it be best to buy adapter sleeves for all the bits or will one for each size work easy enough to not cause long delays?
Someone mentioned collars on the bits. Any idea what they are using for collars.

[dbfletcher]

Some are using vinyl tubing cut in to 1/8 in sections. Some are using brass tubing. Some are using just a bead of epoxy. Some are using drill bit depth collars. Other are using nothing at all. I personally bought the shaft collars... dont have the website handy, but if you search the forum it has been posted several times.
I bought a collor for each bit I have. It sounded like you were thinking of just switching one for each shank size. most likely that isnt going to work because if you use two tools with the same shanks size in one proejct, you would be right back to where you started... not able to match teh first measurement with the second.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[Shacky]

Two things:

If the second measurement is what the machine actually uses, then why go to the trouble of putting on collars etc.? For that matter, why does the machine go through the whole setup thing when it's going to do it again when you put the bit in to carve?

How should the router bits (like the 3/8 classical) sit in the RC? Up tight or with a bit of a gap? If so, how much of a gap?

Thanks again.

[dbfletcher]

Two things:

If the second measurement is what the machine actually uses, then why go to the trouble of putting on collars etc.? For that matter, why does the machine go through the whole setup thing when it's going to do it again when you put the bit in to carve?

How should the router bits (like the 3/8 classical) sit in the RC? Up tight or with a bit of a gap? If so, how much of a gap?

Thanks again.

Thats exactly why some have choose not to use collars at all. The machine does the two measurments as a safeguard against user error. It assume that the user puts the correct bits in at the beggining of the project. So if the measurement isnt what it expects on the second check right before it would use the bit... it assumes that either the user mistakenly inserted the wrong bit, or it was set right in the qc.

I have a bout a 1/8-3/16 gap between the rock sleave and the cutting surface on all my bits.

Hope that helps,

Doug Fletcher

[rjustice]

Thats exactly why some have choose not to use collars at all. The machine does the two measurments as a safeguard against user error. It assume that the user puts the correct bits in at the beggining of the project. So if the measurement isnt what it expects on the second check right before it would use the bit... it assumes that either the user mistakenly inserted the wrong bit, or it was set right in the qc.

I have a bout a 1/8-3/16 gap between the rock sleave and the cutting surface on all my bits.

Hope that helps,

Doug Fletcher

Thanks Doug...
You are right on. I personally dont use stops either. It allows you to choke up on the bits just that little bit more which makes the setup even more rigid.

Ron

[ddouglass]

Thanks Doug...
You are right on. I personally don't use stops either. It allows you to choke up on the bits just that little bit more which makes the setup even more rigid.

Ron
Ron, I ordered your Rock Chuck, but I am still a little confused on this. What do I need to set up each bit? Do I need multiple Rock Bit Adapters or multiple Rock Sleeves or do I need both for each bit? With all the bits in the set from Carvewright that would get extremely expensive at $79 a piece for each adapter and another $21 for all the sleeves for any 1/4" bits.
By the way I just ordered the 1/2" version since I do have bits that are 1/2 and 1/4"

[dbfletcher]

Ron, I ordered your Rock Chuck, but I am still a little confused on this. What do I need to set up each bit? Do I need multiple Rock Bit Adapters or multiple Rock Sleeves or do I need both for each bit? With all the bits in the set from Carvewright that would get extremely expensive at $79 a piece for each adapter and another $21 for all the sleeves for any 1/4" bits.
By the way I just ordered the 1/2" version since I do have bits that are 1/2 and 1/4"

Ahhh.. I think i see the confusion now. I misread your first post I think. You just need one sleeve for each size of shank you use. If you have 1/2 and 1/4 in shanks... you would get just the 1/2 rock and 1/4 sleeve. If you are only ever going to use 1/4 in shanks, you can just get the 1/4 rock with no sleeve. I bought the 1/2 rock with 1/4 & 1/8 in sleeve becuase that is the most versitile.

The collars are a seperate issue... and it depends on how you use the bits in your project. I would try without any collars at first and see what you think. You can always add collars later.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[PCW]

Doug,

Like Ron I stopped using stops a while back and have not ran into any issues. Just hit continue


I would try without any collars at first and see what you think. You can always add collars later.

Thanks,

Doug Fletcher

[rjustice]

Ron, I ordered your Rock Chuck, but I am still a little confused on this. What do I need to set up each bit? Do I need multiple Rock Bit Adapters or multiple Rock Sleeves or do I need both for each bit? With all the bits in the set from Carvewright that would get extremely expensive at $79 a piece for each adapter and another $21 for all the sleeves for any 1/4" bits.
By the way I just ordered the 1/2" version since I do have bits that are 1/2 and 1/4"

As stated by others, since you ordered the 1/2" version, you will only need one 1/2 to 1/4 Rock sleeve to run all the tools that come from CarveWright. If you wish to try any of my 1/8" shank bits, you would also want to get one 1/2 to 1/8" Rock sleeve. It will save you money in the long run as the 1/8 cutout bits that i offer are $14 less. I offer them in 3/4 and 1" lengths. More tool choices will be offered soon.
As for the bit stop. I agree that I would try it without first. If you eyeball the tools up to the edge of the flutes, (so long as they are out about 1") you will be fine. Just press continue to keep going when the machine gives you the message. It is working fine for me, and many others.

If you havent removed the QC yet, please take the time to follow the links below that are in my signature. It will save you a lot of frustration if you have a stubborn one!

If you have any other questions please feel free to post, or email me directly. I appreciate your order!


Ron

[seabass]

When I was going to change to the Rock truck all the info on getting the Original chuck off really made me leery. I tried it a few hours ago and the QC came right off. I installed the Rock Chuck in literally 10 minutes. No heat and not a whole lot of muscle was needed either.

Is it that the refurbished machines do not have the QC chuck installed with Lock Tight? Well it seemed to be in my case.

Thanks, the Rock Chuck, though expensive, was definitely worth it for me.

[ddouglass]

As stated by others, since you ordered the 1/2" version, you will only need one 1/2 to 1/4 Rock sleeve to run all the tools that come from CarveWright. If you wish to try any of my 1/8" shank bits, you would also want to get one 1/2 to 1/8" Rock sleeve. It will save you money in the long run as the 1/8 cutout bits that i offer are $14 less. I offer them in 3/4 and 1" lengths. More tool choices will be offered soon.
As for the bit stop. I agree that I would try it without first. If you eyeball the tools up to the edge of the flutes, (so long as they are out about 1") you will be fine. Just press continue to keep going when the machine gives you the message. It is working fine for me, and many others.

If you havent removed the QC yet, please take the time to follow the links below that are in my signature. It will save you a lot of frustration if you have a stubborn one!

If you have any other questions please feel free to post, or email me directly. I appreciate your order!


Ron
Thanks for the answer Ron. Unfortunately I had broken my cutting bit a couple hours before I read this thread and had already ordered a couple of them through Amazon, so until those break I will wait to order your 1/8 in bits.
As far as removing the QC I did watch your UTube video and it looked pretty simple and easy to understand. I will probably watch it again as soon as I receive the RC. I do wish though that you had it on your web site where we could download it without having to join UTube.
I am looking forward to getting it.

Dale

[Gunner]

Can I re-calibrate using the 1/4 " straight bit instead of the 3/8" bit. As always thanks for the information.

[earlyrider]

You can get a 3/8 bit with a 1/4" shaft. That's what I did for recalibration.
Ron

[ddouglass]

I have one more question on the RC. Can the Probe be converted to use with the Rock or am I not going to be able to use it? I was looking at it and I am not sure how it would come apart to adapt it. I don't want to tear into it to do anything as I have not used it yet at least until I know it can be done.

[Kenm810]

Yep, you can use the Probe with the Rock Chuck! :smile:

Rock Chuck came today........ (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=12527&highlight=probe+with+Rock+Chuck)

[ddouglass]

Thanks Ken. I wasn't sure if there was enough shaft above the probe body to do that. I saved your picture so I can refer to it.

[jerrbitt]

Pray tell, what is the reference to "collars" for the rock chuck?

[AskBud]

Pray tell, what is the reference to "collars" for the rock chuck?

A "collar" is a ring, that you "Fix/lock/glue" in place on the shank of the bit, so that each time you place the bit in the chuck it will be a the exact length/point you wish. It is the same solution as the Adapter performs in the CW/CC QC Chuck.
AskBud

[jerrbitt]

Bud,
Hope our enjoying the usually cold Ohio winters. But concerning the collars, why would I need them since the machine is going to measure he proper distance, isn't it?

[AskBud]

Bud,
Hope our enjoying the usually cold Ohio winters. But concerning the collars, why would I need them since the machine is going to measure he proper distance, isn't it?

Remember that the collar is a good idea. It assures that the bit measurement will be the same as it was when you first inserted it in the beginning (just like it expects with the QC chuck).
AskBud

[TurtleCove]

But, when you insert the bits the 2nd time, the CC re-measures the bit length, and notifies you of the discrepancy. If you tell it to continue, it continues with the length it measured from the 2nd insertion.

At least that's the way it seems to be working to me.

Can someone confirm that?

[PCW]

But, when you insert the bits the 2nd time, the CC re-measures the bit length, and notifies you of the discrepancy. If you tell it to continue, it continues with the length it measured from the 2nd insertion.

At least that's the way it seems to be working to me.

Can someone confirm that?

I been doing it this way for months. Confirmed

[TurtleCove]

Yeah, i just re-read this whole thread, and Fletch really says it best....just like you confirmed. We can hit continue, and indeed continue in confidence.

[PCW]

I haven't used a collar on my bits in a long time while using the Rock. Just make sure the bit is not set to low because after inserting the bit it will momentary spin up and touch down on the keyboard side and may still be turning when the bit hits the plate. I have never had any issues with just hitting the continue button. The machine is smarter than we give it credit.:D

[dbfletcher]

I haven't used a collar on my bits in a long time while using the Rock. Just make sure the bit is not set to low because after inserting the bit it will momentary spin up and touch down on the keyboard side and may still be turning when the bit hits the plate. I have never had any issues with just hitting the continue button. The machine is smarter than we give it credit.:D

Agreed... althought there seem to be two very distinct groups on this subject. Those that swear by collars and those that dont. I dont use collars on any of my bits anymore (except for the keyhole.. but most likley becuase I'm too lazy to take it off). I think i remember rjustice (creator of the Rock) saying he also no longer uses collars.

Of course dont throw them away either if you have them. There is no guarentee than a future firmware upgrade wont force us to go back to using them.

I say do what you feel most comfortable with. I you like the collars and swap the bits when the machine asks... by all means continue to use them. If you wanna save a little time and just change bits on the second measurment cycle (with or without collars)... you can do that as well. As long as we are making sawdust... it's all good.

Doug Fletcher

[Wilbur]

I agree with that. I have never used them or any kind and have no problems.

Wilbur

[Ike]

Pray tell, what is the reference to "collars" for the rock chuck?

Again maybe I am too dumb to know the difference? I have a collar for all my bits. I bought my collars from Home Depot in the drill bit section. These collars are used for drill bit stops for doweling. The only thing I had to buy the assortment pack and didn't see just a 1/4" collar.

The collars are metal with an allen screw to set the collar on the bit. I have had issues with the CW not recognizing the bit. Especially the cutting bit, before the collars I would try to get the bit just right with no avail. Then let the machine continue and it would ruin the cut out.

Anyway they work for me and the assortment package was only $4.00 a pack at Home Depot.

Ike

[TurtleCove]

Are you using a Rock Chuck?
I would think a collar like that, especially with a set screw to one side, would unbalance the chuck, spinning at such high speed.

With the Rock Chuck, these collars seem completely unnecessary.

[rjustice]

It really is personal preference at this point. If it bugs you to hit the continue button when it finds a sligthly different length, the bit stops will eliminate the need to do so. Someone posted above, that you "shouldnt throw them away"... I agree with this, because at some point the software could change. It was not intended to work this way, and could be considered "tricking the machine".. i think most have read the nice thread about how "tricking the machine" should be done at your own risk. Mainly because it may not be supported in the future due to the unintended useage we have come up with.

Happy New Year!

Ron

[AskBud]

But, when you insert the bits the 2nd time, the CC re-measures the bit length, and notifies you of the discrepancy. If you tell it to continue, it continues with the length it measured from the 2nd insertion.

At least that's the way it seems to be working to me.

Can someone confirm that?

I think that if this were always true, there would be no reason for LHR to wish each bit to be "pre-measured". While it may work some of the time, I would think it best to assure consistent placement all the time.
AskBud

[dbfletcher]

I think that if this were always true, there would be no reason for LHR to wish each bit to be "pre-measured". While it may work some of the time, I would think it best to assure consistent placement all the time.
AskBud

I've always assumed this was a "dummy light" for the user.... in case they inserted the wrong bit.. or in the wrong order or with the qc.. not properly inserted,. I also do not use collars of any sort on my bits with the rock. No problems so far.. but I am aware that a future version of the firmware may force us to use them again.

Doug Fletcher

[AskBud]

I've always assumed this was a "dummy light" for the user.... in case they inserted the wrong bit.. or in the wrong order or with the qc.. not properly insterted,. I also do not use collars of any sort on my bits with the rock. No problems so far.. but I am aware that a future version of the firmware may force us to use them again.

Doug Fletcher

Perhaps you are correct in that when you are using the QC, it (the warning) is usually a possibility that the adapter is not correctly seated, as i found out recently.

I'm not sure I would like to suggest ignoring any warning as the machine is too valuable to me.

I just returned from my local hardware store where I did a quick check of various items that might work as a collar on the 1/4" shank. I tried rubber, metal, and Polly washers as well as a Plumbing Farrel. Each had its own unique problem which ruled them out for the present time.

I, also, had started with a common O-Ring. I returned to this O-Ring as the best possible choice from this particular store. I realize that it may be no good to reuse for the next project as it may be damaged by the generated heat of the bit. But, it is only necessary to assure that the first and second measurement/placement are the same.

I also know that some members have used plastic tubing to make their own O-Rings, but I was looking for something I could expect to be fairly balanced rather than having to make precise cuts in the tubing.
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Try this....


http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=502775 1/4 inch

http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=502776 1/2 inch

AL

[CarverJerry]

I have a question, not being a Rock Chuck owner yet, are all the tools set to same length. What I'm trying to say is do all the tools stick out of the chuck at the same length? :confused: How does one know what length you need if all the tools are not the same?

[AskBud]

I have a question, not being a Rock Chuck owner yet, are all the tools set to same length. What I'm trying to say is do all the tools stick out of the chuck at the same length? :confused: How does one know what length you need if all the tools are not the same?

I would use the manual examples that show the needed space for each type of bit.
AskBud

[eelamb]

Ron I purchased the rock chuck today. Ordered the rock, and the .5 to .25 adaptor. My question is what is the rock bit adaptor? Will I need this before using the rock chuck once received?

Although after considerable cleaning of the QC, it releases the bit without the tool, and on the lithophane carving, it was much quieter, I considered the problems it has given me in the past, and the fact I had to purchase their adaptor twice already due to BB indentation, the rock was going to be a much needed purchase. I plan on doing a lot more carving, so why wait for the problems, take care of the problem QC now.

[eelamb]

I found my answers, looking forward to receiving the rock chuck.