trick to hold board on sled

[Pratyeka]

I tried double sided tape (3M), not strong enough.
I tried double sided carpet tape, too strong and a bitch to take off, leaves residue.
I tried hot melt glue, holds good, but hard to remove.
then the light turned on above my head...
2 strips of duct tape on the underside of the board
2 strips of duct tape on the sled, same distance apart as those on the board.
bead of hot melt glue on the duct tape of the board,
line-up on top of the tape on the sled and press down.

Holds perfectly and easy to remove, just peel off the tape.:-D

[WRW]

Thanks for sharing Pratyeka.

Great ideal consider it assimilated.
Red Green would be proud.(Does TV show uses duct tape for everything)

Have a great day!
Richard

[Digitalwoodshop]

That can be very useful !!!! Thanks !!!!

Bet the hot melt would work great to stick the 4 inch end block on too and just run it down the radial arm saw to un stick it....

I saved a ton of wood applying the same 4 inch wood block to all the wine racks and clocks I cut the last 2 weeks. Using place on end and never having a problem. Used a few rolls of masking tape....:mrgreen:

AL

[chebytrk]

That can be very useful !!!! Thanks !!!!

Bet the hot melt would work great to stick the 4 inch end block on too and just run it down the radial arm saw to un stick it....

I saved a ton of wood applying the same 4 inch wood block to all the wine racks and clocks I cut the last 2 weeks. Using place on end and never having a problem. Used a few rolls of masking tape....:mrgreen:

AL

Hey Al,
When you mention "place on end" where exactly does the bit travel to on the board? As in approx. how many inches from the end of the board? I've never done that, but sure want to try it so I can save on some wood.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I place a 4 inch dead area on the right side of Designer to have wood under the forward roller. I tell it to NOT stay under the rollers

I tape a block of wood to the end of the board making sure the edge where the brass roller is even. I run a extra short piece of tape over the crack at the brass roller.

I use Place on end rather than Center on board. This gives me excellent use of wood. I reuse the 4 inch block over and over... I actually tightened up the gap on later wine racks to not waste that 1/2 inch. I do have some bowing or cupping of the 4 inch blocks. In picture 3 you can see the bump under the tape. It did carve good but I retired that piece.

I will try the hot glue idea, just slapping the wood together then snapping it off and cleaning it up with a sander or radial arm saw.

AL

[liquidguitars]

I use wood screws 90% of the time with 95% no slippage. ;)


The screw holds down the inlays, takes about two seconds to mount.

http://liquidguitars.com/assets/images/EZInlayR1002.jpg

LG

[chebytrk]

I place a 4 inch dead area on the right side of Designer to have wood under the forward roller. I tell it to NOT stay under the rollers

I tape a block of wood to the end of the board making sure the edge where the brass roller is even. I run a extra short piece of tape over the crack at the brass roller.

I use Place on end rather than Center on board. This gives me excellent use of wood. I reuse the 4 inch block over and over... I actually tightened up the gap on later wine racks to not waste that 1/2 inch. I do have some bowing or cupping of the 4 inch blocks. In picture 3 you can see the bump under the tape. It did carve good but I retired that piece.

I will try the hot glue idea, just slapping the wood together then snapping it off and cleaning it up with a sander or radial arm saw.

AL

ok... so when you tell it to place on end, where does the carving actually start on the wood? Is it like 5inches from the end (because you have the 4inch block)? Just trying to see how "place on end" compares to "jog to place" works. I assume that "jog" you place it exactly where you want it to start where as "place on end" it goes to a predetermined place (certain amount of inches from the end of the board)?

[liquidguitars]

the measurement is up to how you layout your project in designer, AL and I add the length of the sled into the Designer program never smaller.

http://liquidguitars.com/assets/images/BodyDesign.jpg

LG

[PCW]

Rob (HighTechOkie) did a nice graphics explaining how to place a board.

26835

[liquidguitars]

Rob (HighTechOkie) did a nice graphics explaining how to place a board.

26835

NO! :)

Nice, but not how we do it .

For the "place on end" or "place on corner" the project "shown in green" needs to be the same size as the sled. The main point is we are making it more WYSIWYG.

no "mini" designer boards but full size 1:1.


LG

[PCW]

OK no soup for me.:):mrgreen::)

[liquidguitars]

No Soup! :) err heehh heh..


Dan,

I been impressed with how "spot on" it is using this system. "place on end" or "corner". key pad option "03"

I stopped a fret board scribing one day and had to re run the MPC program, the CW hit the mark exactly on the top of the old scribe with in a hundred thousand of a inch if that! and using a .022" scribe cutter! all i could think at the time was WOW little CW i like you..

LG

[PCW]

Brandon,

I only hope it was pea soup day.:mrgreen:

I know what you are saying and it is a good idea. I do it that way half the time. Just giving you a little poke for starting my day off with a chuckle.

[liquidguitars]

It's a sled thing. hmm i like that, It's a sled thing. :)

[Digitalwoodshop]

I am impressed with that LG Mother of Pearl idea.... I was going to laser away the waste but this looks interesting with the 1/16 inch bit....

Using Place on end for me lets me have a predictable starting place.

AL

[Deolman]

I have found a double-sided duct tape at Lowe's that does a decent job at a lot of various uses.

[TIMCOSBY]

carve last night and after it did the back i noticed it had cut all the way to the edge (my fault in designer) so when i flipped it the brass roller would not have anything to roll on. i cut a 1/4 peice of luan plywood the same size as the board and put it under it no tape or anything and had no slippage. i've done it a couple of other times too with no problems. the 80 ldbs of down force keeps them together.

[cestout]

If you use option 3 - place on end - after you say do not stay under the rollers and the 4" addition is not included in your design, your carve will be on the end including the 4" piece that you added. You must have the 4" addition included in the design when you specify don't stay under the rollers. On the other hand, if you have included the 4" addition and specify stay under the rollers, your carve will start 3.5" in from where you want it - it will shrink your guitar body or whatever. I know you old guys (and girls) know this, but I want to make sure this staying under the rollers or not is under stood by newer readers.
Clint

[Woodhacker]

Hey Al. I tried your idea of hot-glueing a 4" piece on the end, NOT staying under the rollers and placing the carve on the corner. Had a small problem to start with cuz I did not let the glue get hot enough before applying it. After chiseling the cold glue off, I re-glued it and it WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!! So, I am able to use a board at the Designer dimensions and just knock the stub off after the carve is done. The glue chisels off very well with a sharp chisel.

Richard

[Digitalwoodshop]

Richard,

Thanks for the Tip, I will dig my Hot Glue Gun out..... Sounds GOOD.

AL