Double sided carve - thick wood

[klingler]

So I've got a slab of wood that I'm going to mill down to 2.25" thick, then carve both sides. Each side of the wood will have an identical carving where the carving depth is set to .8" and height is set to .999. Knowing I cannot set a cut path (due to thickness), and to make my scroll sawing a little easier (I don't have a band saw), I want to get the pattern cutout as deep as possible - 1". I can see a couple different ways to do this, but before I go any further I'm hoping I can get a good recommendation from the forum. Should I even be concerned about making the CW go any deeper than the carving at .8"? Thanks!

John

[Digitalwoodshop]

Weight.... What is the weight of the wood... TOO heavy and you could get a X stall or strip the x gear.

I would think since you are just after a slot for the scroll saw, then one sided would be OK... Hard to get an exact line up on the back.

Another option is to use the 3/8 inch bit and cut a .25 slot on your path and install a bushing in your router and a 1/8 inch bit and cut the thing out with a router.

AL

[klingler]

No need to worry about the weight. It's only 10" x 17". But I do need both sides carved. The pattern I want will be on both sides of the block. I suppose I don't need to use the CW to pick up a few tents of an inch, but it's hard on the scroll saw to cut something too thick (at least on mine :)

[cestout]

Unless you are sure the pattern you are placing on both sides is exactly symmetrical, I would put it on one side and center it both ways, copy it, then paste it on the back and flip it vertically - like looking in a mirror, differences will be on the same side - then center that. The way you are carving it should get you as deep as you are going to get, but I have no idea if your scroll saw will handle what is left. Do you have a saber saw?
Clint

[Woodhacker]

I have a Dewalt 20" scroll saw which can handle 2 1/2" with no problem. I also have an old Craftsman that couldn't even come close to something that thick. I think your scroll saw throat will determine if you can scroll it out. Otherwise, I would follow Clint's advice and saber saw it out.

Richard

[klingler]

I've managed to line up both sides of the board, front and back, and I think I'm in good shape. I do have a jig saw, but decided to do it the right way and go buy a band saw :)

My wife's grandfather is getting rid of all of his shop tools. One of which is a 9" band saw. For $75, I figure I can't go wrong.

Good suggestions from everyone. Thanks all!

[nikki1492]

Hey all,

I have had my Compucarve almost 7 days and feel that I don't know a thing when reading these posts. I do remember and use tips, tricks, info and suggestions when I design, carve and finish. This is a great place!

A question about the approach to this problem, does your double sided design need to be on a certain piece of wood? I understand needing the thickness..... so could you carve two of the same pattern with no modifications... use the repeat setting, then glue and clamp them for the carving to appear on both sides?

Inquiring minds want to know. :-D

I'll be hanging around reading, learning and asking lots of questions. :lol:

[Woodhacker]

Hello Burgie. Welcome to the forum. You can copy your pattern, flip the board and paste it on the back. As long as you have a board thick enough, it will carve the pattern on both sides. If it is a doubl-sided carve, you will have to make sure they line up. Use the "show grid" and "Lock to grid" options to get them lined up. Also, remember that when you flip the board, your pattern will be upside down on the back. It will need to be rotated 180 degrees and flipped horizontally if it is a double sided carve. Have fun with your machine. Hope this helps.

Richard

[fwharris]

Hey all,

I have had my Compucarve almost 7 days and feel that I don't know a thing when reading these posts. I do remember and use tips, tricks, info and suggestions when I design, carve and finish. This is a great place!

A question about the approach to this problem, does your double sided design need to be on a certain piece of wood? I understand needing the thickness..... so could you carve two of the same pattern with no modifications... use the repeat setting, then glue and clamp them for the carving to appear on both sides?

Inquiring minds want to know. :-D

I'll be hanging around reading, learning and asking lots of questions. :lol:

Nikki,

Yes you can just carve 2 of your pattern and then glue them together. As for wood, it is your choice for what type of carve you are doing.

[nikki1492]

Thanks for the info. I'm having a great time learning what this machine will do.

I believe my stock is thick enough for double sided carving. I've bought 200 bf locally harvested Northern Red Oak from the hills of western PA.

Some was dry so I have something to play with. But the real problem was getting the rest dried. I didn't find a solution that worked for me except to build my own solar kiln.

I now have a charge in for the winter and working quite nicely.

All the stock is 1" thick and 8"wide with some 10 footers but mostly 8 foot.

And now on to another question. What (ball park) depth should I set to do a 2 sided carve with copy and align the pattern on the back? I don't have a planer so I've sanded about 1/8" off between the 2 sides.

Thanks so much for your patience and newbie questions. I'm greener at carving than the lumber which I bought. :)

[mtylerfl]

And now on to another question. What (ball park) depth should I set to do a 2 sided carve with copy and align the pattern on the back? I don't have a planer so I've sanded about 1/8" off between the 2 sides.

Thanks so much for your patience and newbie questions. I'm greener at carving than the lumber which I bought. :)

Hello,

Perhaps this will help answer some of your questions...Tips & tricks - ISSUE 24 September 2009"Two-Sided Carve Techniques" (http://www.carvebuddy.com/PDFs/CW_TipsandTricks_Newsletters/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Sept09.pdf)

[fwharris]

Thanks for the info. I'm having a great time learning what this machine will do.

I believe my stock is thick enough for double sided carving. I've bought 200 bf locally harvested Northern Red Oak from the hills of western PA.

Some was dry so I have something to play with. But the real problem was getting the rest dried. I didn't find a solution that worked for me except to build my own solar kiln.

I now have a charge in for the winter and working quite nicely.

All the stock is 1" thick and 8"wide with some 10 footers but mostly 8 foot.

And now on to another question. What (ball park) depth should I set to do a 2 sided carve with copy and align the pattern on the back? I don't have a planer so I've sanded about 1/8" off between the 2 sides.

Thanks so much for your patience and newbie questions. I'm greener at carving than the lumber which I bought. :)

Nikki,

Sounds like a great buy on the wood!!

For the 2 side carve depth question the latest tips&tricks newsletter covers the topic of 2 sided carves.

In case you were not aware of the news letter here is a link to them
http://carvewright.com/cms/tips-and-tricks

and here is the link to the 2 sided carve pdf
http://www.carvebuddy.com/PDFs/CW_TipsandTricks_Newsletters/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Sept09.pdf

I could not find this one on the CW site but Michael of Carvebuddy.com (http://Carvebuddy.com) had it..


EDIT: OOPS TO SLOW!!!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Nikki,

If you get a chance post some pictures of your solar kiln. I plan to build one and posting in in Techniques would benefit a bunch of us...


Thanks,

AL

[hogiewan]

try setting the virtual board to 2", so that you can see if the vector cuts line up in designer

[nikki1492]

Hi all!

I've am putting the kiln information and photos a separate thread directly under Techniques. It's easier to find any information in a search if it is a separate thread.

Forgot to tell y'all that the lumber 200 bf of red oak I got was only $100. For delivery, unloaded and stacked on stickers was an extra $25. All the sawmills wanted $1 a bf to kiln dry my lumber. Now I have my own kiln and my foot in the door of a sawmill. I'm hoping to get some other species of hardwoods which are locally grown.

The lumber is not "select" grade but that works for me. I will be making only small projects so it will be easy to work around the board's natural 'flaws'.

Thanks for the link to Sept 09 issue of the Tips & Tricks.... I have up to Aug 09.... when do they usually come out?

I have only one regret..... that I didn't buy my carver sooner. I had been researching and thinking about it since early July. For me, it was a practice in self control. :roll: But it's here now and I am having a blast!

I first bought a reconditioned Compucarve from Sears last month.... the only recons that come with more than a DOA warranty. It worked for one week before it died. No problems with Sears. They had that one picked up and gave me credit for every penny I paid, including shipping.

During the week that it was running I became addicted. I decided to order a new one with the 5 year extended warranty.

These parts of that agreement blew me away "We will directly pay on your behalf for the cost of parts and services performed by a qualified repair provider..... including repairs necessary due to normal wear and tear. The warranty is transferable with the unit and it provides for 1 preventative maintenance visit each year.

Please check out my solar kiln thread. I hope it helps someone.

Thanks.... and I'll be around doing what I do best...... asking questions. ;)



Nikki,

If you get a chance post some pictures of your solar kiln. I plan to build one and posting in in Techniques would benefit a bunch of us...


Thanks,

AL