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Dan Frecks
08-25-2009, 01:06 AM
The front sandpaper belt has moved right (away from the keypad) on my machine leaving an approx 1/4 to 5/8 inch gap on the rolling sensor side of the bottom plate. One person suggested that I cut off a half inch piece of the belt on one side. My questions are

1) is a narrower belt a problem?
2) is there a tracking adjustment for the belt like there is on a belt sander?
3) will the gap on the keypad side pose a problem as long as the belt isn't rubbing on the other side?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

liquidguitars
08-25-2009, 01:36 AM
I cut mine right after i put them on, way better than the belt folding over making the CW read wrong in my opinion.

LG

Dan Frecks
08-25-2009, 01:43 AM
I cut mine right after i put them on, way better than the belt folding over making the CW read wrong in my opinion.

LG

Thanks. What method do you use to cut them while on the machine?

bjbethke
08-25-2009, 01:46 AM
I do not think there any adjustments you can make. Saw dust under the belt may be the problem. Some times using too many small boards can cause a drift on your belts
Do You have a down draft system?

fwharris
08-25-2009, 01:47 AM
The front sandpaper belt has moved right (away from the keypad) on my machine leaving an approx 1/4 to 5/8 inch gap on the rolling sensor side of the bottom plate. One person suggested that I cut off a half inch piece of the belt on one side. My questions are

1) is a narrower belt a problem?
2) is there a tracking adjustment for the belt like there is on a belt sander?
3) will the gap on the keypad side pose a problem as long as the belt isn't rubbing on the other side?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

1. Narrower belt is not a problem.
2. Do direct adjustment for the belt tracking like a belt sander. The belt tension is done by heavy springs on each end the belt try assembly. Things that can cause the belt to track off is; head pressure and head not level.
3. The gap should not be problem..

Here is a link to a previous post that might of some help to you..

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=10651&highlight=belt+adjustment

Dan Frecks
08-25-2009, 02:05 AM
I do not have a downdraft in place yet but it is coming. Then again I have only carved a couple of small projects so sawdust has been limited and I have carefully cleaned the machine several times. So far the belt has not become a problem or rolled. I am just trying to be proactive. The belt is drifting away from the keypad.

Thanks for the link to the other forum article it was helpful

liquidguitars
08-25-2009, 02:20 AM
utility knife the first 1/2 then tear and move the belt roller at the same time.


LG

Jeff_Birt
08-25-2009, 11:49 AM
Take a look at the instructions for installing the new rubber/kevlar belts. They have you check a few set screws that could come loose and cause a belt tracking problem.

Dan Frecks
08-25-2009, 04:53 PM
Take a look at the instructions for installing the new rubber/kevlar belts. They have you check a few set screws that could come loose and cause a belt tracking problem.


At the risk of sounding like a moron Jeff, could you tell me where I might download a copy of the instructions? I looked through the Carvewright site briefely and didn't see them.

fwharris
08-25-2009, 05:07 PM
At the risk of sounding like a moron Jeff, could you tell me where I might download a copy of the instructions? I looked through the Carvewright site briefely and didn't see them.

Dan,

Bookmark this page..

http://www.carvewright.com/cms/customer_service

What you are looking for is in the Servicing docs at the bottom of the page

Just about all of the documentation for the CW...

Digitalwoodshop
08-25-2009, 07:39 PM
I believe the single most common reason for the belt to move over is placing a board in the machine at a slight angle.

I make a habit of placing the wood in the machine up against the left guide and crank the head down. Standing at the keypad I touch left and right, the end of the left guide where the wood is touching and at least once a week find I did not get the board up against both front and back guides.

I check it as the machine measures watching for a warped board.

I would cut the belt and it will work fine.

Good Luck,

AL

TerryT
08-25-2009, 09:35 PM
I agree Al. I have spent 20 minutes making sure my board was straight, flat and square then put it in with just the slightest angle. Only happened once that I had to pay for. Ripped my traction belt. I did have about 400 or 500 hours on it at that point so it didn't hurt to change it anyway. But!!! I could have gotten another 100 hours out of it if I had been more careful.

Dan Frecks
08-26-2009, 10:11 AM
OK This is certainly something to look out for.

Long before I even received my machine I made jigs to put my boards in. The bottom of the jig is made from 1/2 birch plywood, and even if the redwood, oak or poplar that I have been working with is ever so slightly cupped the bottom of the sled should be perfectly straight and square cause I have made sure of it.

The one variable that is possible is that I somehow put the whole jig in at a slight angle. I will be diligent on checking that in the future. I told my son about the reccomendation to cut off the belt a bit and his first response was exactly the same as mine. "What if we cut it off and it just keeps on drifting"?

At this point it has not rolled, nor has it caused any problems. we have just noticed that there is a larger gap at the keypad side of the roller than at the other. We made a small sharpie mark on the guide plate at the far side to see if it is drifting further. If it does not, then we will trim it and call it a day. If it continues to drift, then I think we need to do a further root cause analysis of the problem.

Digitalwoodshop
08-26-2009, 11:39 AM
Since it has not rolled yet, you could jack the head most of the way up and remove the side opposite the keypad. Pop the black plastic cover off and remove the sand paper belt assembly and blow the dust off. Use a clamp to release the pressure on the springs and adjust the belt to center.

I bet if you keep an eye on the wood the belt will be just fine. Remember if you jack the head too high, that hole in the jacking screw next to the gear box is for priming the screw threads.

Good Luck,

AL

AskBud
09-18-2009, 12:04 PM
Bud, have another issue. My traction belts are drifting. From what I read here it appears as though it's because I'm using small pieces. I've done about 6 carves and they are already rubbing the side closest to the keypad. Is there a simple way to move them back? I hope I don't have to take them apart every six boards. Do you think I should cut them as described on the forums?

jonathan,
I just did a test, on the Front belt, and here is what I found:

1) With the head raised and the power OFF, place your Left hand flat on the belt, finger tips pointing toward the Right side.
2) Roll the belt into the machine by pressing "Down, Right, and making the belt roll".

I was able to move the "Front" belt to where I wished.
AskBud

dbfletcher
09-18-2009, 01:15 PM
Take a look at this thread. It explains a method for re-adjusting the belts with out removing them from that machine.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=10651&highlight=belt+trick

Doug Fletcher