Rock Chuck bit stops

[cnc4me]

I was using shrink tubing to function as a stop but I started to notice that the tubing was becoming loose and moving down the shaft. So that posed a problem with setting the bits up. Well I went and spent the time to make stops that will never move. I made some shrink fit collars. I reamed them too .249 and used a standard heat gun to expand them, once they were nice and hot dropped them down the shaft. In no more than 1 min they were locked in place. I used a small clamp as a stop on the shaft to position the collar, worked great. The only downside is that its a one time deal, if I break the cutter it will be almost impossible to get the collar off. I was thinking about using a set screw to hold them in place, but too be honest I was lazy, I didnt want to setup and drill and tap the side of them. Just my two cents.

[sk8nmike]

I picked up some brass tubing from Home Depot that is just slightly smaller than the bit (.024"), cut a small ring with a tubing cutter then drive the ring on the the bit. So far it's worked fine, and no slipping.

[Rick P]

You can buy drill stop collars from Rockler. They are re-useable, if you break a bit.

But, if you replace the QC with a ROCK Chuck, bit breakage is unlikely. The bits will still become dull though.

[Dan Frecks]

Although I don't have the Rock Chuck yet, (I have one on order based on all of your reviews) I assume you need bit stops to ensure the same cutting depth for each bit when loading it into the chuck right?

Anyway, I found some split ring bit stops for sale on ebay. I have used them in other applications for standard drilling. The split ring stops are better than the set screw kind caust they do not mar the bits.

If you are interested here is an ebay link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-7-Pc-Drill-Bit-Split-Ring-Stop-Collar-Tool-Set_W0QQitemZ330348935211QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item4cea54b82b&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Dan

[Wilbur]

You can use what works best for you.

I use the plastic tube that the bit came in. I cut it to 1.25" and slide the bit into it and with the tip of my finger I slide the bit in place and lock it down.
This works very good for me.

I do use the 1/2" chuck and the 1/4" adaptor. If you use the 1/4" chuck only, then you should cut the tube to 1.5".

Wilbur

[Rick P]

Dan - if your carving project takes 2 or more different kinds of bits you will need the bit stops. Although, a few times I just marked the bit with a thin line and it worked fine.(need good eyesight for that method :-))

If your project is just one bit, you don't need a stop.

[Jeff_Birt]

Again let me caution everyone that the bit is spinning at greater then 20K RPM. Anything type of collar you add to the bit has the potential to severely unbalance it taking away some of the reported benefit of the chuck. You need to use something as light and balanced as possible.

[bwnichols]

Sounds like sk8nmike's method with cold-fitting a light, thin brass ring would fit the criteria of a 'balanced approach'...

[Shawnf2]

For v-bits and router bits i purchased a pack of 1/4 inch dremel drum sanding tubes and slide them down over the shaft as far as theyll go works perfect and last quite along time.
For the cutting bit i cut a L out of a pieice of 3/4 wood, drilled a hole half way thru so the bottom of bit can rest. Slide the bit into the chuck place the bit into the hole and gently push up and the top of the L acts like a stop,when it butts up to the base of the chuck at 1 1/2 inches

[SteveEJ]

Nylon sleeves that are super glued in place have been good for me. They are light and if they have an adverse effect on the balance I cannot detect it.

Thanks for the reminder Jeff. We don't need to introduce back what was eliminated.

For the best success, it is better to use a small jig, like the cut tube or L-block to place the bits into the chuck. Safer and has no effect on balance at all. But it is what floats your boat too! :-D

[cnc4me]

It's whatever works best for you. Jeff is right, at that rpm if your stop isnt on well enough it could come flying off. This is why I went with shrink fit. Now I work in a machine shop so I have tools and precise machines to work with, but for those of you that do not you can still accomplish this. Buy some 1/2 alum round stock, and drill a .249 or .248 diam hole as close as you can on center. I would think most of you out there will have a drill press. You can either drill as deep as you can or you can chop them first then drill. Make sure to cleanup the burrs so once its heated nothing stops it from dropping down the shank. Once you have it where you want it, to make it more balanced chuck it up in the drill press and file away. It may take a little time but you get the idea. If you have a lathe you are golden, you can bypass the the drill press. Personally I used stainless steel for mine and am very happy with the results. One more thing, if you dont get it quite in place before it cools, you can hammer the bit out and try again.

[jjack9485]

I got Bit stops from harbor freight for $1.57 for a set. They work great.

jack

[PCW]

I think we are finding out that bit stops are not as important as we once thought.

After reading last week that Wilbur and Pratyeka skipped the offer to measure the 1/8" cutout bit on setup of a project.

I gave it a try.

My project called for both bits. I installed the 1/16" bit it measured the bit then prompted for the 1/8" bit to measure it. I ignored this step and left the 1/16" bit in hit continue and it remeasured it.

Ran the project and when it asked for the 1/8" cutting bit I installed it at a random depth and remeasured it and the machine let me know that it did not measure the same as the first time. I just hit continue and it took the second measurement and it was business as usual.

I would have to say at this time that the main reason to use a bit stop is to insure that the bit is set high enough into the chuck as to not drill into the brass roller when it is spinning up and touching down near the brass roller (just in case it does not slow down in time).

The machines firmware has a redundant bit length check.

What do others have to say?

[RRettig]

My solution for installing bits in the Rock - dual purpose.

Cut 3/4 inch square dowels exactly 1-1/2” inches long, drill 1/4” holes and seal one end.
When ready to use simply insert the bit in the chuck while still in the holder. The only exception is the 1/4” ball nose bit. The dowel piece should be 1-1/4” long. It not only simplifies installation but protects the cutting surfaces of the bits when not being used.

Ralph

[rjustice]

I think we are finding out that bit stops are not as important as we once thought.

After reading last week that Wilbur and Pratyeka skipped the offer to measure the 1/8" cutout bit on setup of a project.

I gave it a try.

My project called for both bits. I installed the 1/16" bit it measured the bit then prompted for the 1/8" bit to measure it. I ignored this step and left the 1/16" bit in hit continue and it remeasured it.

Ran the project and when it asked for the 1/8" cutting bit I installed it at a random depth and remeasured it and the machine let me know that it did not measure the same as the first time. I just hit continue and it took the second measurement and it was business as usual.

I would have to say at this time that the main reason to use a bit stop is to insure that the bit is set high enough into the chuck as to not drill into the brass roller when it is spinning up and touching down near the brass roller (just in case it does not slow down in time).

The machines firmware has a redundant bit length check.

What do others have to say?

Hi Dan,
My experience has been exactly as you describe, which would mean that no bit stop is necessary, but i have had 2 or 3 people that swear that their machine uses the first touch length, and doesn't pick up the last touchoff if they hit continue... It would be really nice if we could get this confirmed one way or the other.
Any other feedback would be very helpfull for the group.

Thanks,

Ron

[PCW]

Hi Ron

Any chance that you caught the software version they where using?

I have tried it on both of my machines several times in the past couple weeks with the same results.

I'm using Version 1.153 and that may be the difference. Perhaps a reason if someone is using a older version and not getting the same results in a given circumstance. Maybe LHR is making changes to the firmware to accommodate the newer OEM chucks as well as third party chucks.

I would appreciate it if others would give it a try with older versions of the software as well.

[rjustice]

I was running 1.126 when I tested it.

Ron

[FINGERS]

For the bit stop I ground down the top of the bit adapters and use them for bit stops.

[dbfletcher]

Wasn't it the qc adapters themselves a lot of people where blaming for part of the imbalance in the qc?

[PCW]

Quote>>>I was running 1.126 when I tested it.

Ron

Well I guess that blows that theory but it would be nice to know what other users results are along with the version of software they are using.

This rule should be the same for the QC as well as all other chucks being used.

[rjustice]

Wasn't it the qc adapters themselves a lot of people where blaming for part of the imbalance in the qc?

What i found was that the bit adapters had runout in them that contributes to the tool whipping out which causes vibration, and heat in the bearings. The way he is using them as stops wouldnt cause that, but i would sincerely doubt that they are balanced either... While it is probably better balanced than the origninal QC, I dont think this is the way i would go...

Ron

[earlyrider]

I still think the simplest way is the best way, using an O ring and a spot of super glue.
Ron

[rjustice]

I still think the simplest way is the best way, using an O ring and a spot of super glue.
Ron

Ron, This is a fine way to achieve the repeatability.

I have posted before, that i used a sliver of undersized vinyl tubing stretched over the shank, it works great, and i didnt have to use the superglue...

[hess]

I still think the simplest way is the best way, using an O ring and a spot of super glue.
Ron


O rings have not messed up yet I agree

I have not had any heat readings above 90 for weeks on the flex

I looked a flex of a buds today with low hrs with a QC you could tell it was running hot there was dry heat dust on the top hat

[jgowrie]

Digging up an old thread but it seems like it's closely related to my question and it's the closest thing that came up in a search for installing bits into the rock chuck.

I'm trying to determine the proper gap between the face of the Rock chuck's 1/4" adaptor and the bottom of the cutting edges of the CW bits. I am assuming you are all using the same 1/8" that was recommended by CW with the QC adaptors. Is this correct?

There doesn't seem to be any standard depth mentioned anywhere that I can find using the search function of the forum.

[dbfletcher]

Digging up an old thread but it seems like it's closely related to my question and it's the closest thing that came up in a search for installing bits into the rock chuck.

I'm trying to determine the proper gap between the face of the Rock chuck's 1/4" adaptor and the bottom of the cutting edges of the CW bits. I am assuming you are all using the same 1/8" that was recommended by CW with the QC adaptors. Is this correct?

There doesn't seem to be any standard depth mentioned anywhere that I can find using the search function of the forum.

if you always use 1/8-3/16, you'll be fine. A few of us had problems using any type of collar with the 3/8 stragiht bit and cutting. As it stands now it isnt critical that you can place the bit at the exact same position in the rock each time... but that may change at a later date. I currently do not use any collars on any of my bits with the rock.

Doug Fletcher

[spalted]

I haven't had my Rock chuck long, but I have never used any stop collars either. I just choose to proceed when it give me the warning about the bit height not matching. Sorry I don't recall the exact message it gives.

[jgowrie]

Thanks for the replies. I will stick with the 1/8 to 3/16" rule-of-thumb.

[eelamb]

I choose to use "O" rings glued to the 1/4 shaft at the 1/8" area. I know it was not necessary but liked doing it this way. I also have a few medical tubes cut to the right height, where I can insert the bit in the tube, then insert the bit using the tube into the rock This works great too.

Just other ways to do it, and who knows, in the future it may be necessary with software upgrades.

[Ike]

I use drill bit stops and they work fine. The ones used for doweling. Never asked, but Ron it won't hurt the Rock, will it?

Anyway it worked for me!

Ike

[Billions]

Reading the changes to Designer software version 1.162/1.163, there is this sentence:

* Added support for CarveTight spindle to firmware

...And I'm wondering how the software could possibly tell how the bit is being held in the machine - CarveTight, QC, or a Rock - the parameters are about the same... I'm wondering if that would actually be talking about a zeroing/height calibration being done with each bit change.

That would be nice.

[CarverJerry]

Well as mentioned earlier in this post, I use a plastic tube that is cut off to the proper length, this is so easy to use, does't unbalance anything, repeats exactly the same every time. Using this method to set your tool heigth is similar to how we set tool heigths in the machine shop. I call it a fail safe system. Oh, and I use a Rock Chuck. Just my opion and my way...

CarverJerry

[RMarkey]

Reading the changes to Designer software version 1.162/1.163, there is this sentence:

* Added support for CarveTight spindle to firmware

...And I'm wondering how the software could possibly tell how the bit is being held in the machine - CarveTight, QC, or a Rock - the parameters are about the same... I'm wondering if that would actually be talking about a zeroing/height calibration being done with each bit change.

That would be nice.

The firmware can't tell which one you're using. Even if I gave people the option, not all users will set it. Therefore, it has to work irregardless. The change was to open the search range of the bit-to-mechanical plate.

Height calibration occurs with each bit change always.

[Billions]

Excellent to know!