New guy needs a little advice

[dmcglone]

Hi everyone.

I'm fairly new to using the carvewright and I'm trying to figure out how to do 3D stuff.

I downloaded a free 3D pattern of a tank from a link I found on this forum and I've sliced it up and made a pattern out of it.

I'm wondering if anyone wouldn't mind taking a look at it and give me some pointers on the best way to do this.

I highly doubt the pattern will work, but it's a start.

I've attached the pattern with hope someone will give it a look and give me some pointers.

Blessings,
David M.

[Woodhacker]

Hi David. Welcome to the forum. I have looked at your .mpc file but do not understand what you are trying to do with it. Did you use the .stl slicer software from LHR? Are you trying to make a 3-dimensional tank? I can see the pieces of the tank in the .mpc, but do not think it will carve unless you add some tabs or something to it. As it is, it appears it will come to pieces as it carves and you will have pieces flying around inside your machine....not a good thing. A little more info about what you are trying to accomplish would be helpful.

Richard

[swhitney]

those pieces look a bit small, some only 1.5 inches for longest dimension, so detail will probably be all but lost. The board seems a little big, if that is the size tank you wish... looks like you could get one or two more "sets" on the same board!!

[dmcglone]

Hi David. Welcome to the forum. I have looked at your .mpc file but do not understand what you are trying to do with it. Did you use the .stl slicer software from LHR? Are you trying to make a 3-dimensional tank? I can see the pieces of the tank in the .mpc, but do not think it will carve unless you add some tabs or something to it. As it is, it appears it will come to pieces as it carves and you will have pieces flying around inside your machine....not a good thing. A little more info about what you are trying to accomplish would be helpful.

Richard

Thanks.

Basically what I'm trying to do is just make a 3-dimensional tank. You've probably noticed how I flipped the last slice where the wheels are, so they would face up because, I don't understand how the machine would carve the wheels if I had sliced them to be on the sides of the board. (does that make sense?)

I did use the .stl slicer from LHR.

I also did add tabs, I wonder why they didn't show over there.

[dmcglone]

those pieces look a bit small, some only 1.5 inches for longest dimension, so detail will probably be all but lost. The board seems a little big, if that is the size tank you wish... looks like you could get one or two more "sets" on the same board!!

That's the effect of a absolute beginner ;)

The reason the board is long is because I followed a tutorial on the carvewright website, I also read somewhere on this forum that the board should be 3.5 inches bigger on each end (7 in. total) for a reason I can't remember.

[swhitney]

for an "absolute beginner" not bad....

the 3.5" on each end is so that the board will stay in place with pressure from BOTH rollers. That helps to keep the board from shifting, and also tracks better on the belts. some even add a strip of masking tape on the edge that contacts the brass roller.

[dmcglone]

Thanks for the compliment.

I've been thinking I should start fresh with a simpler 3D model to try and get a better grasp on how this 3D stuff works.

[TIMCOSBY]

but i would move eveything closer to each other till they almost touch and then put the tabs in. no reason to carve all that wood. the tabs showed up for me but they are way too long and may break.

[mtylerfl]

That's the effect of a absolute beginner ;)

The reason the board is long is because I followed a tutorial on the carvewright website, I also read somewhere on this forum that the board should be 3.5 inches bigger on each end (7 in. total) for a reason I can't remember.

You need the extra 7" length to make sure your project stays under the pressure rollers during the project run. (BTW - the extra 7" is all you need - it is not necessary to add any more length than that.) There are two schools of thought on layout technique, and both methods work equally well...

I design my layouts so that the project just fits on the virtual board in the software. Example: If I can fit all the design on a board measuring 10" long, then that's the size I make the virtual board. Then, when placing an ACTUAL board into the machine, I cut the board length to be slightly over 17" long, tell the project to "Center", and I say "Yes" to stay under the rollers. This is the method CarveWright recommends in your owner's manual and that's the way I've done it for about 2½ years. I've not ever had a problem doing it the way CarveWright specified from the get-go.

The other method some folks like to use is to make the layout board the same size as the actual board. In my 10" long design example, the layout board then would be 17" long and I would make sure the design is centered in the board in the layout. At the machine you would still put a 17" board into the machine, but you have to say "No" to stay under the rollers. The project actually WILL stay under the rollers because the extra 7" is already accounted for both in your layout and with the actual board.

When using a sled or jig, it is usually desirable to make your layout the same size as your sled/jig so you can layout your project more accurately in relation to your sled dimensions. You just have to pay attention to the right response to make when you come to the stay under rollers prompt during setup at the machine.

Whether you choose to make your project layouts as specified in your owner's manual or whether you choose to make your virtual board the same size as the actual board, it doesn't really matter. Either way is fine, and it is your choice!

[rhendrix]

I use a sled and cut my board to the exact length and width I want. The machine measures the entire sled and I choose not to cut to length and to center on board and to stay under rollers. My extra width is filled in with pre-cut pieces of wood on the sled but I never put anything on the ends of the board being cut to give me that extra 7". I have often wondered about that because I know the instructions say you have to have it but I have no trouble carving without it. My sled is 36" X 14" with a 1.5" strip on the front and back edge and a 3.5" strip on each end. Thinking about it, I don't really need the end strips unless I am going to cut a really long board. I use pre-cut strips cut different widths to fill in between the board I am cutting and the edges of the sled so the work piece is held securely. I don't do anything to fill in on the length ends of the board. I wonder why mine even works if that extra 7" is actually required.:confused:

[mtylerfl]

I use a sled and cut my board to the exact length and width I want. The machine measures the entire sled and I choose not to cut to length and to center on board and to stay under rollers. My extra width is filled in with pre-cut pieces of wood on the sled but I never put anything on the ends of the board being cut to give me that extra 7". I have often wondered about that because I know the instructions say you have to have it but I have no trouble carving without it. My sled is 36" X 14" with a 1.5" strip on the front and back edge and a 3.5" strip on each end. Thinking about it, I don't really need the end strips unless I am going to cut a really long board. I use pre-cut strips cut different widths to fill in between the board I am cutting and the edges of the sled so the work piece is held securely. I don't do anything to fill in on the length ends of the board. I wonder why mine even works if that extra 7" is actually required.:confused:

Your sled is providing sufficient length for the project to stay under the rollers automatically, unless your project itself is longer than 29", you're fine!

[AskBud]

I use a sled and cut my board to the exact length and width I want. The machine measures the entire sled and I choose not to cut to length and to center on board and to stay under rollers. My extra width is filled in with pre-cut pieces of wood on the sled but I never put anything on the ends of the board being cut to give me that extra 7". I have often wondered about that because I know the instructions say you have to have it but I have no trouble carving without it. My sled is 36" X 14" with a 1.5" strip on the front and back edge and a 3.5" strip on each end. Thinking about it, I don't really need the end strips unless I am going to cut a really long board. I use pre-cut strips cut different widths to fill in between the board I am cutting and the edges of the sled so the work piece is held securely. I don't do anything to fill in on the length ends of the board. I wonder why mine even works if that extra 7" is actually required.:confused:
Your extra 7 inches are being provided by your sled (I persume that none of your Design boards are longer than 29"). I presume that your design are, also, less than 14" in width. By centering your actual board on the sled you are able to Center
AskBud

[TIMCOSBY]

I use a sled and cut my board to the exact length and width I want. The machine measures the entire sled and I choose not to cut to length and to center on board and to stay under rollers. My extra width is filled in with pre-cut pieces of wood on the sled but I never put anything on the ends of the board being cut to give me that extra 7". I have often wondered about that because I know the instructions say you have to have it but I have no trouble carving without it. My sled is 36" X 14" with a 1.5" strip on the front and back edge and a 3.5" strip on each end. Thinking about it, I don't really need the end strips unless I am going to cut a really long board. I use pre-cut strips cut different widths to fill in between the board I am cutting and the edges of the sled so the work piece is held securely. I don't do anything to fill in on the length ends of the board. I wonder why mine even works if that extra 7" is actually required.:confused:

if your out feed tables are set up "perfectly" or the patern you are carving doesnt show the little small line that is created when the board comes out from under the rear roller and lets the rear of the board rise ever so slightly.

[dmcglone]

You need the extra 7" length to make sure your project stays under the pressure rollers during the project run. (BTW - the extra 7" is all you need - it is not necessary to add any more length than that.) There are two schools of thought on layout technique, and both methods work equally well...

I design my layouts so that the project just fits on the virtual board in the software. Example: If I can fit all the design on a board measuring 10" long, then that's the size I make the virtual board. Then, when placing an ACTUAL board into the machine, I cut the board length to be slightly over 17" long, tell the project to "Center", and I say "Yes" to stay under the rollers. This is the method CarveWright recommends in your owner's manual and that's the way I've done it for about 2½ years. I've not ever had a problem doing it the way CarveWright specified from the get-go.

The other method some folks like to use is to make the layout board the same size as the actual board. In my 10" long design example, the layout board then would be 17" long and I would make sure the design is centered in the board in the layout. At the machine you would still put a 17" board into the machine, but you have to say "No" to stay under the rollers. The project actually WILL stay under the rollers because the extra 7" is already accounted for both in your layout and with the actual board.

When using a sled or jig, it is usually desirable to make your layout the same size as your sled/jig so you can layout your project more accurately in relation to your sled dimensions. You just have to pay attention to the right response to make when you come to the stay under rollers prompt during setup at the machine.

Whether you choose to make your project layouts as specified in your owner's manual or whether you choose to make your virtual board the same size as the actual board, it doesn't really matter. Either way is fine, and it is your choice!

Thanks Tim.

I'm going to start the project over and make the board shorter. Then I'll go ahead and cut it out and see what happens. Best way to learn here is with trial and error.

I'll post back soon to let everyone know how my first 3D project goes.

Blessings
David M.