New Rock love, shaft is hotter

[Creekwood]

Is it normal for the flex shaft to get hotter with the new chuck, then with the original?

[Digitalwoodshop]

No... It's a Shaft Lubrication Problem.... Stop and Lube the shaft with Molly.... Check your Top Hat too, might be a oil puddle on top of the top bearing.

A Kinked Spring when man handling the flex melted my flex one time....


Rock ON...


AL

[Creekwood]

Oiled with moley, what is the top hat, the top of the chuck

[Creekwood]

Wish I had a inferred temp gauge, but it was just hot enough to hold on to the shaft with burning me?

[liquidguitars]

New Rock love, shaft is hotter

hehh heh.. if after 4 hrs call your doctor. :)

LG

[liquidguitars]

Wish I had a inferred temp gauge, but it was just hot enough to hold on to the shaft with burning me?

Depends on if the insides are dirty I clean with paint thinner if really bad " not sure if that recommended by LHR"

also you could have a bad bearing heating up the spindle.

when i first installed the Rock the shaft seemed a little hotter but that went away. now runs way cooler go figure :)

LG

[Creekwood]

I was thinking that because of the extra weight on the chuck that could cause a little extra heat.
It seems to be the hottest in the center of the flex shaft. So I have been stopping the CW about every 15 minutes to the let the shaft cool.

After I get done with this project I might do a complete cleaning and re oiling

[rjustice]

I noticed the first time I re-lube the shaft from the factory, mine ran slightly warmer for a few hours, then cooled down considerably.
In regards to the weight of the "Rock"... the 1/4" version is lighter than the QC (remember you have to add the weight of the QC bit adapter too)... and the 1/2" version is a tiny bit heavier than the QC... and that is including the sleeve used to hold the carving bit. It is not enough to cause things to run a different temperature in my opinion, and experience.
Unless you had a QC that was balanced, you should see a reduction in the temps, as it causes more friction to run something unbalanced v/s balanced, and the "Rock Chuck" is near perfectly balanced.
The statement about possibly getting the bottom bearing too hot could come in to play as well depending on how you took the QC off. If you had to apply torch heat directly to the body of the chuck, you could have got it too hot... The "Rod" method still seems to be the best option to me, and i have replaced over a dozen for people myself now.

Happy carving guys!

Ron

[Creekwood]

Once again I want to thank everyone for the great responses.

What I should have mentioned at the beginning, that the reason I changed chuck was because the original chuck blew apart?

I do not have inferred temp meter, but a meter with a wired temp probe.
What would be the temp on the shaft.

From what I have been reading on the forums about 150 degrees max?

[Kenm810]

I do Check it regularly, mine has stayed within 10 to 20 Degrees
of the surrounding ambient temperature, it's never been over 115 Degrees.

[rjustice]

Once again I want to thank everyone for the great responses.

What I should have mentioned at the beginning, that the reason I changed chuck was because the original chuck blew apart?

I do not have inferred temp meter, but a meter with a wired temp probe.
What would be the temp on the shaft.

From what I have been reading on the forums about 150 degrees max?

This is important info... When it "blew apart" were you standing there and stop it quickly, or did it run for a little while? Was the machine vibrating and shaking to extremes when you got it shut down?... If so, the side load that is exerted on the bearings (especially the bottom one) was extreme, and could very well have toasted the bearings when it happened. It also could have loosened up the fit on the spacer ring that retains the bottom bearing. I would watch for signs of it migrating out of the bore... It would be nice to check it with the IR thermometer. You could then check the Z truck at the top and the bottom to see if either bearing is running hot. If the bearings are damaged and running hot, it could cause the flex shaft to work harder, and therefore run hot as well... I have the laser IR thermometer on my website if you are interested. They are in stock.

Let us know how you come out!

Happy Carving,

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

The top hat is the part that the flex plugs into on top of the Z Truck. It is good to remove it from time to time to wipe any oil from the flex. Oil getting into the top bearing will make it fail and get hot.

A Hot Flex Shaft is due to lack of proper lubrication or a damaged core, spring, or rubber shaft.

Removing the flex shaft and spring and running a gun cleaning rod thought the rubber might find a was of junk causing the heat.

The Molly must soak into the core of the shaft. Make sure you are not using Molly GREASE... You want the Molly in the spray can so the solvent carries the molly into the center of the shaft.

AL

[Creekwood]

By cleaning the flex shaft with the gun cleaner rod, I think the overheating is solved!

Thanks to all that helped, I recommend cleaning the flex shaft on a scheduled basis, you should have seen the black oil that came out.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good JOB !!!

:DAL