Hello and advice

[Dan Frecks]

Hi all,
I am looking into starting a small sign business/hobby with my adult children. This would start small, making signs for entrance ways and residences. We would sell them at local swap meets, craft shows, and in front of our local retail store especially around the holidays. We are all computer savy, and have a passion for woodworking (we have an extensive shop), and are resonably literate in equipment maintenence and repair.

Now for the questions:
1) will this machine hold up to a business application? I would anticipate up to 25 fairly simple carved signs a week with centerline text for personalization.

2) What kind of wood would you suggest for this kind of sign. Will Redwood or Cedar carve well? I have seen pine carvings done with the Carvewright, and pine seems prone to grain chipping and tear out.

3) With the machine on the way (it shipped yesterday) I went looking for either Liquid Wrench/Gunk L716 Lube with Molly, and no one around here seems to carry it. Same goes with the Crane Cams 99002-1 Assembly Lube. I did find a Lucas Oil Assembly Lube that contains Molly. Has anyone tried it? Do you think it will work? Judging from the forums, I shouldn't even try the machine until I lube the flex shaft right?

4) Last but not least. This will be a new machine. Should I immediately download firmware/software updates before trying anything? I have a test version of the software and it is easy...I like that I can import line drawings, and the availability of so many patterns.

Looking forward to talking with all of you! Thanks in advance for your responses and advice.

Dan

[Rick P]

Many will tell you this...get a ROCK chuck if you are going to do that many carvings on your CW.

Redwood carves great ... just ask Ike !!

Go to the Cranes Cam website and order the 99002-1 assembly lube...it is the best option for the flex shaft ... AND check your flex shaft before you use it...make sure it is lubed.

Make a downdraft vacuum system...keeping the insides clean is important. If you use a shop vac to clean the inside be sure to ground yourself.

[Dan Frecks]

Many will tell you this...get a ROCK chuck if you are going to do that many carvings on your CW.

Redwood carves great ... just ask Ike !!

Go to the Cranes Cam website and order the 99002-1 assembly lube...it is the best option for the flex shaft ... AND check your flex shaft before you use it...make sure it is lubed.

Make a downdraft vacuum system...keeping the insides clean is important. If you use a shop vac to clean the inside be sure to ground yourself.

Thanks for the quick response Rick. I looked up the Rock Chuck and that is certainly doable. I ordered a full set of bits along with the machine. Will the rock chuck accept all of those bits as well? Also any advice on making a downdraft vaccum system? Any plans anywhere?

Thanks again!

[Rick P]

Ron Justice is the man who invented the ROCK chuck...you may want to get in touch with him...but, yes the ROCK with its accessories will accept all the CW bits. There are plans for vacuum setups...use the SEARCH option.
I have a Delta Dust Collector and made a small box out of 2x6s which the CW sits on top of and the DC is attached to the side. The box is sealed and the area around the opening in the bottom of the CW is sealed...a rectangular opening in the top of my small box matches the opening in the CW.

You can buy bits from many sources to use with your ROCK....like the 45 degree V-bit from EagleAmerica for small centerline text...and many more options. Many CW users have more experience than I do and can offer even better advice.

[PCW]

Thanks for the quick response Rick. I looked up the Rock Chuck and that is certainly doable. I ordered a full set of bits along with the machine. Will the rock chuck accept all of those bits as well? Also any advice on making a downdraft vaccum system? Any plans anywhere?

Thanks again!

If you get the 1/2' Rock and 1/2 to 1/4 adapter all of the bits will work.

If you get the 1/4 version of the Rock the 1/2" bits will not work. Just the 1/4" bits so I would get the 1/2" version chuck along with the 1/4 adapter.

You will also need some tool to remove the chuck 2 flat wrenches and a square bit removable tool. Maybe the T wrench if you don't have one.

Ron has some youtube videos showing how to change the chucks out that may help.

[Dan Frecks]

Very cool, I found the CW website for ordering the Rock Chuck, now my question is: Should I order the half inch chuck with the sleeve, or should I order both sized bit adapters and change them as needed depending on the cutting tool? In other words, is the sleeve as viable and stable an option? Obviously ordering the 1/2" chuck with the sleeve is cheaper.......

Thanks all!
Dan

[Tom Spaulding]

Very cool, I found the CW website for ordering the Rock Chuck, now my question is: Should I order the half inch chuck with the sleeve, or should I order both sized bit adapters and change them as needed depending on the cutting tool? In other words, is the sleeve as viable and stable an option? Obviously ordering the 1/2" chuck with the sleeve is cheaper.......

Thanks all!
Dan

1/2" with sleeve would be the way to go, a quarter turn with a T-handle compared to using 2 flat wrenches to change bits. I've only used the 1/8" sleeve, but it works great for me.

-Tom

[DocWheeler]

1) will this machine hold up to a business application? I would anticipate up to 25 fairly simple carved signs a week with centerline text for personalization.

3) With the machine on the way (it shipped yesterday) I went looking for either Liquid Wrench/Gunk L716 Lube with Molly, and no one around here seems to carry it. Same goes with the Crane Cams 99002-1 Assembly Lube. I did find a Lucas Oil Assembly Lube that contains Molly. Has anyone tried it? Do you think it will work? Judging from the forums, I shouldn't even try the machine until I lube the flex shaft right?


Dan,

Some of your questions were skipped-over.
1) It is a "Hobby" machine, but it should handle that workload (unless they are Large signs)

3) Although you had responses to this if you have a local Harbor Freight, get their MolyGraph high pressure grease. It is a combination of Moly and Graphite.

Good luck - looking forward to seeing your signs.

[SteveEJ]

That solves the hardware issues, now make sure that you read and understand the other things needed to be successful consistantly, ie:
Masking tape on the bottom of the boards, the 3 1/2" on each end rule, etc. They are all over the place..

Have fun with the machine!

[fwharris]

Hi all,
I am looking into starting a small sign business/hobby with my adult children. This would start small, making signs for entrance ways and residences. We would sell them at local swap meets, craft shows, and in front of our local retail store especially around the holidays. We are all computer savy, and have a passion for woodworking (we have an extensive shop), and are resonably literate in equipment maintenence and repair.

Now for the questions:
1) will this machine hold up to a business application? I would anticipate up to 25 fairly simple carved signs a week with centerline text for personalization.

2) What kind of wood would you suggest for this kind of sign. Will Redwood or Cedar carve well? I have seen pine carvings done with the Carvewright, and pine seems prone to grain chipping and tear out.

3) With the machine on the way (it shipped yesterday) I went looking for either Liquid Wrench/Gunk L716 Lube with Molly, and no one around here seems to carry it. Same goes with the Crane Cams 99002-1 Assembly Lube. I did find a Lucas Oil Assembly Lube that contains Molly. Has anyone tried it? Do you think it will work? Judging from the forums, I shouldn't even try the machine until I lube the flex shaft right?

4) Last but not least. This will be a new machine. Should I immediately download firmware/software updates before trying anything? I have a test version of the software and it is easy...I like that I can import line drawings, and the availability of so many patterns.

Looking forward to talking with all of you! Thanks in advance for your responses and advice.

Dan

Dan,

Congratulations on your new purchase and for doing your home work on the machine. Being computer savvy and having a passion for woodworking will pay big dividends for you and your kids! Make sure you down load all of the tips & tricks news letters for all of the great information.

After you get your CW, install the software, get registered with CW and then download and install the latest version of the software/firm ware. Most likely the software CD that you will get with the machine will not be the newest version....

Wood, I have very good results with every type that I have carved on. It all depends on how you set up you designs. The "draft" tool is a carver's best friend to prevent chipping issues. Your carve quality settings, best/optimal are also needed to produce the best product..

Flexshaft lube, yes lube before you do your first carve. I use the CraneCam lube and would rate it #1 over the gunk lube. Less mess and very easy to apply..

Dust collection like others have said will pay big benefits to keep your machine at it's best performance. Do a search to see the many variations others have done.

The only problem I see for you in the future will be keeping the kids from fighting over who is going to use the machine. You just might have to get a 2nd one to keep them happy. :)

[Dan Frecks]

Dan,

Some of your questions were skipped-over.
1) It is a "Hobby" machine, but it should handle that workload (unless they are Large signs)

3) Although you had responses to this if you have a local Harbor Freight, get their MolyGraph high pressure grease. It is a combination of Moly and Graphite.

Good luck - looking forward to seeing your signs.

Love your quote by the way.

I assume you have used the Harbor Freight grease with success? Is it viscous? If so how did you get it to penetrate all the way into the core of the flex shaft as that seems to be an issue from what I have read so far.

We plan on carving fairly small signs (like those people might hang over their front door) Like "The Nelson's". We would have simple relief carvings in the corners with room for names which will likely be centerline text.

I plan on using a routing table for sign edges etc... to save wear and tear on the CW machine.

I have built downdraft tables before for table saws and radial arm saws but I am very nervous about static on this unit because of the computer components. It seems like this has been an issue.

Dan

[Dan Frecks]

WOW it is very cool to see such an active forum and such helpful people. Thank you all so much for the replies and assistance. After reading the reviews I was pretty hesitant regarding the machine, but you all have made me a lot more comfortable. I am hoping all this early research will pay dividends.

Thanks for all your continuing advice.
Dan and Sons

[DickB]

Interesting. You get one recommendation for the Rock chuck, then go order it having never used the machine.

[fwharris]

Dan,

For your static elect. concerns, just make sure you set up a good grounding system from the DC to the CW. If you do any vacuuming in the middle of the carve always ground yourself to the machine and try to avoid going near the keyboard side of the machine. This includes keeping the vac hose away from it on the outside of the CW..

If you have a good down draft and a top mounted dust collection system you will find that you will need to do very little clean up during a carve.

When you are cleaning up after a carve make sure you turn the CW off.

[Dan Frecks]

Interesting. You get one recommendation for the Rock chuck, then go order it having never used the machine.


I have not ordered it yet Dick, I fully plan on using the machine before ordering it, but it does seem to get really favorable reviews on the forums so I am planning my budget. The biggest benefit I see is that it seems to help with cooler runs and supposedly quiets down the machine with less vibration. All I have to go by is what I have read here. Do you disagree?

[Dan Frecks]

Dan,

For your static elect. concerns, just make sure you set up a good grounding system from the DC to the CW. If you do any vacuuming in the middle of the carve always ground yourself to the machine and try to avoid going near the keyboard side of the machine. This includes keeping the vac hose away from it on the outside of the CW..

If you have a good down draft and a top mounted dust collection system you will find that you will need to do very little clean up during a carve.

When you are cleaning up after a carve make sure you turn the CW off.

I plan on ducting a Large volume Rigid Shop Vac to both the underside of my table and top of the work (similar to plans I see for download on the CW site). My work table will be all wood with wooden legs. How would you suggest I ground it? Would I ground from the hose(s) to the machine body with shielded copper wire?

[SteveEJ]

I STRONGLY recommend the Rock.. Less vibration, noise and better carves. Carves can now be set to "Best" instead of "Optimum" with the same result. Just my opinion though and you know about opinions!

[DocWheeler]

Dan,

Good point, the shaft on my first machine had the chain-lube on it several times prior to my using the grease. I have not used the second machine that much since I got discouraged with LHR over some issues, but I used the grease as soon as I got it and both shafts run at a very nice temperature.

Since too much oil can ruin the spindle bearings, I'll stick with the grease.

I just get on the form some days as programs are compiling, so my responses are random!

[DickB]

I have not ordered it yet Dick, I fully plan on using the machine before ordering it, but it does seem to get really favorable reviews on the forums so I am planning my budget. The biggest benefit I see is that it seems to help with cooler runs and supposedly quiets down the machine with less vibration. All I have to go by is what I have read here. Do you disagree?
I know that there are strong supporters, but there also appears to be a number of users that have no problems with the standard quick change chuck. You may not be hearing from these users. You have not yet in this thread - 'till now. To date, the QC is not something I have had issue with, and I find it lives up to its name when changing bits, more so than the Rock would. So I'm good with it, at least for now.

[fbrittain]

Hi all,
I am looking into starting a small sign business/hobby with my adult children. This would start small, making signs for entrance ways and residences. We would sell them at local swap meets, craft shows, and in front of our local retail store especially around the holidays. We are all computer savy, and have a passion for woodworking (we have an extensive shop), and are resonably literate in equipment maintenence and repair.

Now for the questions:
1) will this machine hold up to a business application? I would anticipate up to 25 fairly simple carved signs a week with centerline text for personalization.

2) What kind of wood would you suggest for this kind of sign. Will Redwood or Cedar carve well? I have seen pine carvings done with the Carvewright, and pine seems prone to grain chipping and tear out.

3) With the machine on the way (it shipped yesterday) I went looking for either Liquid Wrench/Gunk L716 Lube with Molly, and no one around here seems to carry it. Same goes with the Crane Cams 99002-1 Assembly Lube. I did find a Lucas Oil Assembly Lube that contains Molly. Has anyone tried it? Do you think it will work? Judging from the forums, I shouldn't even try the machine until I lube the flex shaft right?

4) Last but not least. This will be a new machine. Should I immediately download firmware/software updates before trying anything? I have a test version of the software and it is easy...I like that I can import line drawings, and the availability of so many patterns.

Looking forward to talking with all of you! Thanks in advance for your responses and advice.

Dan

Hi Dan, welcome to carvewright. I wish you sucess in your new venture. My advise is to use this forum on a regular basis. these guy's out there have encountered about every problem out there and the best part is you don't have to call texas-leave voice mail-wait till??? to get the answer to qour questions although when you finally get some one the info is pretty good.without this forum I doubt if carvewright would still be in business. I am just a hobbiest and don't do volume but some of the others have 2 and 3 machines running full time. Just study the manuel and be especially aware of the maintanace and use the forum. you'll be o.k.

[fwharris]

I plan on ducting a Large volume Rigid Shop Vac to both the underside of my table and top of the work (similar to plans I see for download on the CW site). My work table will be all wood with wooden legs. How would you suggest I ground it? Would I ground from the hose(s) to the machine body with shielded copper wire?

Dan,

I'm afraid I will have to let the guys with more electrical experience handle this one for the best method for grounding your shop vac.

I use a delta dust collection system with my CW and have my ground system hooked to a grounding rod. I connect my ground wires to the DC, both out feed trays and machine body plus the wire is coiled around my DC hose to the down draft port on my box. For my top draft I use an aluminum dryer vent hose.

I did use a shop vac for my DD system when I first started but found that even though I had the grounding system mentioned above the static was still an issue. I think it might have been cause by the hose type on the shop vac and the higher air movement thought the hose.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Your right, it's the flow through the hose of chips that makes the voltage.

The better quality the hose, the more conductive carbon is in it....

As for the Vacuum... Most have 2 wire plugs as the 2 wires go into the machine stop at the switch and next go to a full wave rectifier. This changed the AC to DC to run the motor. At least that is for some...

Grounding is important....

I use a heavy wire, #14 that has 3 alligator clips on each end. I ground my dust collector 3 places and the foil dryer hose. On the other end I ground the dust hood, out feed table and metal roll around cabinet.

You should ground it all to the electrical ground. Never install a new ground rod and run it to a new ground rod. That will set up some Ground Loops and is a bad thing.

AL

[Dan Frecks]

Your right, it's the flow through the hose of chips that makes the voltage.

The better quality the hose, the more conductive carbon is in it....

As for the Vacuum... Most have 2 wire plugs as the 2 wires go into the machine stop at the switch and next go to a full wave rectifier. This changed the AC to DC to run the motor. At least that is for some...

Grounding is important....

I use a heavy wire, #14 that has 3 alligator clips on each end. I ground my dust collector 3 places and the foil dryer hose. On the other end I ground the dust hood, out feed table and metal roll around cabinet.

You should ground it all to the electrical ground. Never install a new ground rod and run it to a new ground rod. That will set up some Ground Loops and is a bad thing.

AL


Thanks AL. My shop vac is indeed two wires. I am wondering if I should change it to a 3 wire chord and run the ground wire out of the top of the vaccum as a ground post for other wires to the machine? That would be easy to do. I was planning on making a 3" v-shaped tray under the machine and connect the vaccum hose to the bottom of that. T

The hose would then run straight down from under the table, and the only part that would ever come close to the machine would be the addachment which would be approx. 4" under the base of the whole thing. Like I said earlier it's the whole grounding thing that makes me really nervous. I don't want to fry anything with the vaccum running while the machine runs.

Do you have any pictures of your configuration that you would be willing to share?

[dbfletcher]

I have mine mounted on a portable miter saw stand. I used three 24 " sections of 2x4 for the moutning. The middle one is for the down draft. This way I dont block any of the vents on the bottom of the carvewright and use window trim foam tape to seal the downdraft 2x4 and carvewright. I have attached the mpc file I used for my to make my downdraft 2x4. I really like the miter saw stand becuse it has built-in adjustable infeed and out feed rollers. Plus when I an done I can just fold it up and roll it in the corner with the carvewright still attached.

Doug Fletcher

[fwharris]

You should ground it all to the electrical ground. Never install a new ground rod and run it to a new ground rod. That will set up some Ground Loops and is a bad thing.

AL

Al,

Great point!!

My ground connection is to the electrical ground rod for my power panel. Guess I did make it sound like I put in a ground rod just for this purpose..:confused:

[Dan Frecks]

Well, my machine arrived today. I have the flex shaft out now and am soaking it in Gunk chain lube with Moly. I have ordered a few tubes of Crane assembly lube at several of your suggestions, but this is what I have for now. The shaft appeared to be lubed when I pulled it out, but I figured better safe than sorry.

I want you all to know how much I appreciate the help and advice. It will probably take a while to get my downdraft built but I am looking forward to some basic carving this weekend. I'll post some pics of my first attempts. We'll see how it goes!

Dan

[fwharris]

Well, my machine arrived today. I have the flex shaft out now and am soaking it in Gunk chain lube with Moly. I have ordered a few tubes of Crane assembly lube at several of your suggestions, but this is what I have for now. The shaft appeared to be lubed when I pulled it out, but I figured better safe than sorry.

I want you all to know how much I appreciate the help and advice. It will probably take a while to get my downdraft built but I am looking forward to some basic carving this weekend. I'll post some pics of my first attempts. We'll see how it goes!

Dan

Dan,

Great news!! Just make sure let the flex shaft drip dry real good and wipe it down before installing it.. After you have run the CW for a couple of test carves take it out of the top hat (top of cutting head) and check to see if you have any of the gunk in it. If you do wipe it out good.

Best of luck and happy carving!!!

[Dan Frecks]

OK I am sure all of you gurus are tired of we newbies coming on board and asking tons of stupid questions, but I have lubed my flex shaft and started putting together and readying my machine and I just have a couple more questions.

1) What is the female computer connection on the front of the unit under the fold down carriage? Can I actually run the program and/or transfer project data directly from my laptop? That would be nice. I did not see that port mentioned in my manual although admittedly I haven't finished reading it in detail.

2) when inspecting my machine, I found a small amount of sawdust on the bottom vent area and a small amount on the sandpaper drums. Do they test these inits at the factory? Could that account for the sawdust? I just wanted to make sure that Sears didn't send me a reconditioned or returned unit as I paid for a new one.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

[hess]

The dust iis from testing

The port may be for future

[fwharris]

Dan,

No problem on the questions! That is what we are here for.

Hess is right, the dust is from the unit being tested before shipping.

The connector is for LHR's purpose and not the end user.

[Dan Frecks]

Dan,

No problem on the questions! That is what we are here for.

Hess is right, the dust is from the unit being tested before shipping.

The connector is for LHR's purpose and not the end user.


Thanks.....being kind of a computer dood, I can't almost help but plug a laptop into that port to see what it does....I won't but I really want to.