Project won't start in right spot

[Steven Alford]

I just upgraded to 1.152 (groan!!)
I had everything working perfect in 1.15. Now with the same pattern, no changes, except I re-calibrated the depth of the board to be exact. It measures the board fine, but when it checks the thickness of the board, it tells me it might be too thin (I am using 1/2" that measures .543, the software rounds off to .539). I tell it to continue. After measuring it asks me to "center on width" (on two out of three tries it asked me to "center on length" either way I say yes). It never asks to scale the project. Good so far.

But when it starts to carve it starts 1" in from where it should start. It is funny though. You know when it says "Finding Surface" and the tip of your carving bit comes over to a certain spot and touches the surface two times and leaves two little indents in the wood surface? Well it does that in exactly the same spot it did before I upgraded to 1.152. So if it does that, why won't it start in the same spot as always?

[www.go3d.us]

Does it start 1" from left, right or top? What is the length of the actual board? Is it the same length as the virtual board?

HT

[Steven Alford]

What you see in the file is my sled. The dotted rectangle line is the actual piece of wood within the sled. So I am using the actual measurements of the sled. But with the pattern in the CENTER of the sled, it should start at the center. But it starts about one inch in from the left end of the dotted rectangle of the project (as seen from the file, the dragons head).

[liquidguitars]

Steve, your MPC layout looks right


you can try this if ya like..

Add a 1/4" scrap to the side of the sled "this will lock the y measurement"
when the carvewright notices the wider size in y it will prompt you asking to
" keep the same? " say yes. now you can "center" it in x or "place on corner" 03

keep under roller? = no
keep the same ? = yes
place o corner ? = yes

good to go? you bet..

note: i load the front of the sled directly under the z truck when starting if that make sense..

LG

[Steven Alford]

Thaks LG
Let me see if I get this right....
Add 1/4" strip to the long side of the sled (the 18" length) on the side opposite the keypad, I assume.

It usually asks me if I want to center on length or width, so instead I should choose "place on corner"?? Will that start the project at the corner of my sled or the corner of my project??

and on your note, you say you "add the extra to the front 6" of the sled and load the front directly under the z truck if that make sense".

My sled measures 4" x 18", where does this 6" come from??

[liquidguitars]

yea add it on opposite keyboard side like in the photo ..

http://liquidguitars.com/assets/images/Jigissup.jpg



LG

[Steven Alford]

Well, that did not do it.
No matter what I do, it wants to start 1" in from the start point.
I chose "place on corner", "jog to", nothing, they all start in the same place; 1" in from the start point.

[liquidguitars]

try a new board but this time use the CW to mark the inside box, then build up the outside wood around the marks.

i do it this way now as it saves a lot of frustration.

LG

[mtylerfl]

Well, that did not do it.
No matter what I do, it wants to start 1" in from the start point.
I chose "place on corner", "jog to", nothing, they all start in the same place; 1" in from the start point.

Hello Steven,

Just a thought - try measuring the board via the CW keypad. Verify that it is measuring the length correctly. Was thinking maybe?? the calibration is off by an inch since your project wants to start about an inch "off" where it's supposed to.

Also, confirm your brass roller O-ring is in the groove. If it's not, that could throw off the length and/or starting point, too.

[liquidguitars]

Hello Steven,

Just a thought - try measuring the board via the CW keypad. Verify that it is measuring the length correctly. Was thinking maybe?? the calibration is off by an inch since your project wants to start about an inch "off" where it's supposed to.

Also, confirm your brass roller O-ring is in the groove. If it's not, that could throw off the length and/or starting point, too.

Yea that could be it.. As he could of reset the calibration by mistake and now need to adjust the belts, I did the same thing not long ago and it was a inch or so off until i fixed it.. or he could be pulling off the wrong end :)

LG

[mtylerfl]

LG,

Are you using the Kevlar belts on any of your machines? I think I'm going to install them on one of mine this weekend. If you had already installed them yourself already, I was wondering if you had any tips besides what is outlined in the LHR instructions.

[mtylerfl]

LG,

OT - Are you using the Kevlar belts on any of your machines? I think I'm going to install them on one of mine this weekend. If you had already installed them yourself already, I was wondering if you had any tips besides what is outlined in the LHR instructions.

[Steven Alford]

Hello Steven,

Just a thought - try measuring the board via the CW keypad. Verify that it is measuring the length correctly. Was thinking maybe?? the calibration is off by an inch since your project wants to start about an inch "off" where it's supposed to.

Also, confirm your brass roller O-ring is in the groove. If it's not, that could throw off the length and/or starting point, too.

That was it Michael, the o-ring slipped off. Once I got that back where it was, everything was good.

But I must admit that every carve that I have ever done since I have had this machine never starts exactly where it should. In fact, the longer the board, the farther off it is.

Thanks guys for the help.

[liquidguitars]

LG,

OT - Are you using the Kevlar belts on any of your machines? I think I'm going to install them on one of mine this weekend. If you had already installed them yourself already, I was wondering if you had any tips besides what is outlined in the LHR instructions.


I had the belts since December once you get the right o ring and calibrate they are fantastic, never bunch up and grip better with age.

the only thing i can think of off hand is use a 48" x 5" piece of good grade plywood as a test strip to calibrate as some wood tends to get a board sensor error. the plywood works spot on. You need a good sharp 3/8 bit as you know 2.

input the measurement in fractions if you like 36 1/2 as opposed to 36.50 if hard to read the test wood.

I think worth the setup for sure!



LG

[liquidguitars]

But I must admit that every carve that I have ever done since I have had this machine never starts exactly where it should. In fact, the longer the board, the farther off it is.

you could need to run the Cal belt program if your off and try using the setup above.

i get very accurate placement on all my sleds using this system. I got to the point where i can just throw a part in a sled and walk away!

but more than one way to do it thats for sure..

LG

[Steven Alford]

Is this calibrate belt program part of the calibration menu on the key pad??
I will try this tomorrow.

[HighTechOkie]

You might check the outfeed trays as well. The board could be lifting up also losing contact with the o-ring being off as the board exits the machine.

Rob

[Steven Alford]

I would say that could be a possibility except that not two days ago I spent 30 minutes getting them adjusted to the exact height. I will re-check them tomorrow though.

[mtylerfl]

I had the belts since December once you get the right o ring and calibrate they are fantastic, never bunch up and grip better with age.

the only thing i can think of off hand is use a 48" x 5" piece of good grade plywood as a test strip to calibrate as some wood tends to get a board sensor error. the plywood works spot on. You need a good sharp 3/8 bit as you know 2.

input the measurement in fractions if you like 36 1/2 as opposed to 36.50 if hard to read the test wood.

I think worth the setup for sure!

LG

Thanks, LG!