Pine Finishing

[dbfletcher]

I was going to make a few signs out of select pine. I'l like to keep the "wood look" but it seems from my googling, everyone says for outdoor wood in the weather, the only real option is "paint". Is there any trick that anyone is doing here that would allos me to to cover the wood without an opaque finish?

Doug Fletcher

[twiceretired]

Someone on the forum suggested “Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor”. I want to thank whoever it was, I used it on a Whirly Gig, and it yellows a little on white paint, but works great to repeal the rain.

[Tom75]

i think it was me but i dint want to take credit for it if it wasn't . can not find the thread that has it mentioned in it . thats the Finnish that i have used on a few signs that i have made over the past few months .

[Dan-Woodman]

Tom
If you use it on clear pine or over white paint , etc. it will leave a yellow tint as twiceretired says.Maybe stain first , then topcoat.
later Daniel

[JDPratt]

Wood conditioner (because of the uneven grain of pine), then stain (even a light color will help offset the yellowing effects of the urethane), finsh it off with a couple coats of exterior grade polyurethane. Keep in mind that if the signs are exposed to direct sun, they will need to be refinished every couple of years like a deck would be.

[jcorder]

I often use a mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. It gives the wood a nice golden finish and makes it pretty water resistant. Play with the mixture until you get it thinned out. The only drawback is that it takes several days to dry.

Good luck
Jeff

[robbrigg2]

Can I ask a newbie question. I have gotten involved with making a lot of these belt racks (see attached) and I am trying to streamline the process while making the quality consistent. So, with that said I am trying to decide if I should stain, and poly, the pieces before routing and assembly. I use a tongue and groove for the top and bottom pieces (less work then dowels). If I do this will I be able to assure a better finish? When I put the Shaker Pegs in it makes it hard to apply the poly, and when I put the dividers in it makes it hard to stain and poly. But if I did them all, then assembled the piece I think I would get a nice smooth finish and better looking end product. What do you say?

[cnsranch]

I feel your pain - I LOVE woodworking, and HATE finishing.

You can try to finish and then assemble, but my experience has been that getting the parts to fit is tough with the added thickness of poly, and the fact that wood can swell somewhat when you add stain, etc.

[robbrigg2]

I feel your pain - I LOVE woodworking, and HATE finishing.

You can try to finish and then assemble, but my experience has been that getting the parts to fit is tough with the added thickness of poly, and the fact that wood can swell somewhat when you add stain, etc.

Thanks, I was thinking that if I do all the routing and cutting after it might just work. I'll give it a shot. THanks for your help

[cestout]

For exterior sign etc I have used exterior urethane, but mostly use inexpensive weather proofing stuff you can get from your Home Depot. I like to spray paint the lettering with flat black or something like that then belt sand the flat surface so only the paint inside the lettering shows, then a couple coats of weather proofing. Lasts for years out here in rural Riverside county, CA

[JDPratt]

When I put the Shaker Pegs in it makes it hard to apply the poly, and when I put the dividers in it makes it hard to stain and poly.

What are you using to finish? A brush? Spraying is the answer. Lot easier to get a consistent finish and hit the tight areas by spraying. It is not that expensive for spray materials. Thin/cut the finish and with a little practice you can knock out several pieces at a time.

[robbrigg2]

What are you using to finish? A brush? Spraying is the answer. Lot easier to get a consistent finish and hit the tight areas by spraying. It is not that expensive for spray materials. Thin/cut the finish and with a little practice you can knock out several pieces at a time.

JD, I have been using the spray cans.. but much to costly to do that. I recently purchased an air canister paining system for my compressor but haven't had the guts to try it. Is this what you are talking about? Recently I switched to a Poly that I use with a spong brush. If I start spraying them what do I use as a thinner? and would you suggest spraying firsts. There are thirteen compartments that are 1 1/4 inch wide when assembled, this makes it very difficult to get an even coat sprayed in them after assembly.

Iappreciate your help with this.

Thanks

Robert

[JDPratt]

JD, I have been using the spray cans.. but much to costly to do that. I recently purchased an air canister paining system for my compressor but haven't had the guts to try it. Is this what you are talking about? Recently I switched to a Poly that I use with a spong brush. If I start spraying them what do I use as a thinner? and would you suggest spraying firsts. There are thirteen compartments that are 1 1/4 inch wide when assembled, this makes it very difficult to get an even coat sprayed in them after assembly.

Definitely go with an HVLP or canister sprayer. spray cans are to inconsistent with volume comming out of the can and they tend to drip more. Cutting or thinning depends on what you are spraying. If it is Poly, cut it with mineral spirits to a consistency of really weak pancake syrup (there is a lot of aguement about that, but each gun is going to be a little different and you have to play with it a little. Write down the ratio that works best for you for later use.) Shoot/spray a few test pieces to get the hang of it and you will wonder why you weren't doing it this way a long time ago. It is very important to remember that several light coats is better than one thick one. After looking at the project and seeing the dimension of the openings, I think I would shoot the assembled piece minus the dividers (I assume you are sliding those in last) shoot the dividers separate, then if the dividers are difficult to slide in, just work the dado groove with a little sand paper. It may take a little practice to get the hang of it, but the result from spraying is worth it. Finishing takes time. On several projects it has taken me more time to finish than to build. But then I have OCD when it comes to finish. Trust me, you will figure out that sprayer faster than I have been able to figure out the CW electronics and software.

[robbrigg2]

Thanks, I really appreciate your help. I'm going to give it a shot today so wish me luck. I will let you kow how it goes tomorrow.

[locovalley]

Robbrigg2,

One thing to think about when finishing the parts before you assemble them is that glue will not stick to stained or varnished surfaces very well. I do a lot of pre-assembly finishing of individual parts and I always use masking tape to keep mating surfaces clean so you can glue the parts together. Another benefit is if your parts are pre-finished you'll have fewer problems with glue squeeze-out in the joints messing up your staining and finishing.

I agree that HVLP srayers are the best way to go when you have lots of parts to finish. I spray stain as well as topcoats with my system. Works for me.

[robbrigg2]

Robbrigg2,

One thing to think about when finishing the parts before you assemble them is that glue will not stick to stained or varnished surfaces very well. I do a lot of pre-assembly finishing of individual parts and I always use masking tape to keep mating surfaces clean so you can glue the parts together. Another benefit is if your parts are pre-finished you'll have fewer problems with glue squeeze-out in the joints messing up your staining and finishing.

I agree that HVLP srayers are the best way to go when you have lots of parts to finish. I spray stain as well as topcoats with my system. Works for me.

Hey, now that is something I had not thought of. I did know about the glue not wanting to stick, but I had planned to make the 45's after staining to make for a clean surface but I think the masking tape is the way to Go. Thanks, you helped me tremendously. THat's why I love this board.

Sincere appreciation!

Robert