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Ron Smith
04-02-2006, 11:19 AM
I started to carve a sign in oak today and set the project depth at .125. As the project progressed, I noticed a lot more tearout than usual in the lettering. I stopped the machine and checked the bit. It was in solid, so I looked at the Quick Release Chuck. It is loose, having a play of about 1/16th of an inch and wobbles when running. I am trying to find a flat wrench that will fit the nut on the cutting head to see if I can tighten it up again. I'm afraid some threads may be damaged, not holding it tight anymore. I will keep you posted on what I find I am able to do.

This part had come loose a couple of weeks ago before I went to school (see other thread) and I had applied some LockTite and threaded it back on. I hadn't had a chance to do much else until I returned home today. This is the first project I've tried since then, so it looks like the coming loose is still an issue. Anyone know where to get a flat wrench to fit on the nut above the Quick Release Chuck?

IBTech
04-02-2006, 11:40 AM
I ran into the same problem yesterday. I caught it a little to late though. Before I was able to pause the machine the cutting bit broke.
Once I determined the problem, I too realized I didn't have a wrench thin enough to tighten it. Being a fabricator, I ended up making one out of 1/8" steel flat stock.
I haven't contacted Carvewright yet...I will call them on Monday.

Obviously this is something I will have to add to my checklist to keep an eye on.

pkunk
04-02-2006, 02:26 PM
[quote="Ron Smith" Anyone know where to get a flat wrench to fit on the nut above the Quick Release Chuck?[/quote]
I'd grind down an open end wrench.

Ron Smith
04-03-2006, 06:23 AM
I found one that came with a PC router and it works fine. I'll try to get up and running again today. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for your ideas.

yenne
04-03-2006, 02:56 PM
Sorry to hear about this. Those collets are supposed to be thread-cemented, but the factory didn't do so on some of them. The only way to test is to try to pry it off and see whether the chuck or the tool snaps first, so you can imagine why we're not too keen on testing this very often.

Tightening the collet is relatively simple. You can remove the flex shaft by pulling up to pop it off the cutting head. This exposes the square fitting where the flex shaft enters the spindle. Insert a square wrench to hold the spindle in place while using a typical flat router wrench to tighten the nut on the collet. Then you can re-insert the flex shaft and push down to snap it back in.

If the nut is tight but the collet still wobbles, it is likely damaged. This is very rare, but let us know and we can send you another one.

zack
04-04-2006, 07:48 PM
same problem. took off the chuck cleaned the threads and put on some lock-tight.

malviski
11-10-2009, 09:07 PM
I am having an issue with my chuck also. It seems pretty common and after changing 2 bit adapters I called carvewright. The new bit adapters go in great with no play, then about 45 minutes into a carve it gets lose. It has the same 3 ballbearing dings I changed from the old bit adapters, and wont stay in the chuck. Carvewright tells me that the chuck is not a warranteed item and I have to buy a new one. I have about 100 hours on the machine. Also the sawdust bag has a gaping hole in it and you guessed it it is not under warrantee either. I have not really had any issues befor this, but I am out of commission and a deadline to meet for customers. I have kept it oiled and clean. Is the rock chuck that much better to go with for a replacement? I ordered one just to see, and hopefully it will get here soon, so I can make the deadline. I just dont know why they would only put a warrantee on parts of the machine when clearly the machine is not even broke in!

dbfletcher
11-10-2009, 09:16 PM
I am having an issue with my chuck also. It seems pretty common and after changing 2 bit adapters I called carvewright. The new bit adapters go in great with no play, then about 45 minutes into a carve it gets lose. It has the same 3 ballbearing dings I changed from the old bit adapters, and wont stay in the chuck. Carvewright tells me that the chuck is not a warranteed item and I have to buy a new one. I have about 100 hours on the machine. Also the sawdust bag has a gaping hole in it and you guessed it it is not under warrantee either. I have not really had any issues befor this, but I am out of commission and a deadline to meet for customers. I have kept it oiled and clean. Is the rock chuck that much better to go with for a replacement? I ordered one just to see, and hopefully it will get here soon, so I can make the deadline. I just dont know why they would only put a warrantee on parts of the machine when clearly the machine is not even broke in!

For many of us the rock chuck has turned our machines in to "fun" again. It is so much easier to use than the qc... along with being better balanced and much less runout. Well worth the investment in my opinion.

Doug Fletcher

malviski
11-14-2009, 05:38 PM
I have received the rock chuck, broke the square adapter, made 3 more out of S3 square bit adapters, broke 2 more, heated up the chuck and finally got the QC off. That was half my day. The got the rock installed, to find out that the board sensor lens melted just enough not to function. I gound the lens off as a temp fix until a new one gets in. Now the machine is running and trying to carve and the flex shaft is heating up more then usual. I lubed it a few days ago and lubbed it again today. l let it soak for an hour, hung it for about 30 mins and this sucker is hot! I did notice before I ran into problems with the QC it was warmer then usual but not hot. I am at a loss on what to do next. This machine has about 150 hours on it. Any Ideas?

liquidguitars
11-14-2009, 06:13 PM
I would just keep running it as the bearing could of been heated a little during the removal of the old QC, it should smooth out in 3 or 4 hrs, will see..

LG

dbfletcher
11-14-2009, 07:36 PM
I did notice before I ran into problems with the QC it was warmer then usual but not hot. I am at a loss on what to do next. This machine has about 150 hours on it. Any Ideas?
Funny I melted a flex cable housing on new CC and used my spare. I did moly lube the flex, but thought I didn't do a good job. So after replacing the flex housing I lubed the flex again and it still was getting too hot. So I shook the can well and lubed it again.

It still is hotter then I like my CW has a "Rock" and I can't afford another for my CC. Another thing I get a check cut motor just about every time it begins to carve. Could it be the RPM sensor?

With the over heating could there be other damage? I guess I better check for a lose QC? I know it is a lot louder since the over heating.


For those getting a "Rock" to avoid melting anything Ron instructions were to use a 1/2" steel rod about 3" in the QC and direct the torch on it with the head all the way up.

I didn't want to go buy a piece of steel rod, so I used a 3" socket extension , but I took my eyes off of it and hit the rubber gear belt behind the Z truck. Fortunately it still works, but never use the torch directly on the QC it may heat up something else!


If anyone knows what's going on with my machine please share! Or if I am just paranoid let me know that too!

Ike

Did you take the top hat off to insure no lube from the flex shaft worked it's way down there? Any lube there will certainly cause the truck and qcto get pretty warm. wipe off any lube you find there.

Doug Fletcher

malviski
11-14-2009, 08:16 PM
Yes I had the top hat off and there was no excess lube in there from the first relube. I took it off again to relube the shaft today and there was a couple of small drops but not much at all. I am running the machine and after about 15 mins lifting the hood to stop it and let if cool down again. I have a small fan blowing on the shaft that helps alot. The middle where it curves seems to be the hotspot.

liquidguitars
11-14-2009, 08:29 PM
This machine has about 150 hours on it. Any Ideas?

You could have a worn flex core or a very dirty, but oily shaft. I have at times removed the shaft and run paint thinner down the inside to clean it before the oil, do this at your own risk as i not sure if its recommended by LHR.


LG

Pratyeka
11-15-2009, 06:35 AM
Since you had to struggle to remove the QC, breaking several square bit tools in the process, maybe the square hole where the flex shaft goes in the Z-truck is damaged and the tip of the flex shaft is too loose in it, causing friction and heat. Grab a flashlight and mirror and carefully check. You may have made it bigger if your home made square bit tools were not a good fit.
Good luck.

malviski
11-15-2009, 07:36 AM
It did get a little worn but the shaft still fits perfectly in the hole. The head assembly dont get hot at all. The heat starts at the bend in the shaft the goes down to the cutting motor, and the last place it is transmitted to is around the top hat area. I took the flex shaft out and let it soak in lub overnight. i will hang it in a hour or so and see what happens.

malviski
11-15-2009, 07:48 AM
Just FYI on my backround of use. I have been carving plaques for the last month. Each carve takes about 2 hours to finish 1 plaque. I started with 81 to complete and now I have 18 left to go. I usually do 2 back to back and limit the week days carves to only 2. I try and do 4 plaques a day on the weekend but i do to in the AM and 2 in the PM to rest the machine. Befor these plaques I did not really use the machine at all. I have cleaned and lubricated the machine routinely but never the flex shaft. I followed the instruction in the manual not do do it until it get warmer then usual and now this is where I am at. Like stated before 150 hours of carving(in red oak) on the flexshaft before it was getting warmer than usual. Maybe it should have been lubed sooner, but I was afraid of the over lub that I read about. Carvewright is so anal about thier warranty that I was trying everything I could to follow thier procedures do I would not do more harm than good. I am just trying to finish this order up by thanksgiving weekend and then maybe send in the machine, but they will likely say it is out of waranty because of the hours???

dbfletcher
11-15-2009, 10:32 AM
Just FYI on my backround of use. I have been carving plaques for the last month. Each carve takes about 2 hours to finish 1 plaque. I started with 81 to complete and now I have 18 left to go. I usually do 2 back to back and limit the week days carves to only 2. I try and do 4 plaques a day on the weekend but i do to in the AM and 2 in the PM to rest the machine. Befor these plaques I did not really use the machine at all. I have cleaned and lubricated the machine routinely but never the flex shaft. I followed the instruction in the manual not do do it until it get warmer then usual and now this is where I am at. Like stated before 150 hours of carving(in red oak) on the flexshaft before it was getting warmer than usual. Maybe it should have been lubed sooner, but I was afraid of the over lub that I read about. Carvewright is so anal about thier warranty that I was trying everything I could to follow thier procedures do I would not do more harm than good. I am just trying to finish this order up by thanksgiving weekend and then maybe send in the machine, but they will likely say it is out of waranty because of the hours???


Perhaps this was mentioned earlier and I missed it... but what are you using for your flexshaft lube?

Doug Fletcher

malviski
11-15-2009, 10:57 AM
Perhaps this was mentioned earlier and I missed it... but what are you using for your flexshaft lube?

Doug Fletcher

The gunk Chain lube with moly B, soaking it in a ziplock bag(doubled to prevent leaks) and then hanging it to let the excess dripp off.

RayTrek
11-15-2009, 12:17 PM
About a year ago I noticed that my flex shaft was getting extremely hot I would stop the carve and check the integrity of lube etc. I noticed that some how I had frayed the wire rap that is around the core, the end of the wire was lifted up a tinny bit and was not allowing the squared end of shaft to completely seat into the spindle square receiver once I cut that burr off all was good ~ I do not know if this is the case for you but wanted to mention it as a thought.
Ray

Digitalwoodshop
11-15-2009, 12:58 PM
If you are having a chronic problem with the flex shaft heating up and you have lubricated the shaft with Molly then I would look at a few other ideas...


First... Give up and spend the $75.00 plus shipping for a new Flex... That will solve the problem and reduce the chance of the flex starting a fire. I had one smoking black enough to set off the smoke detector above the machine. A Kinked Spring caused my problem.

Second... You can opt to try and fix the problem.

First thing I would do is remove the core and the spring and look for any KINKS in the spring making a metal to metal spinning situation causing the heat.

Second is that I would use something to flush out the inside of the rubber jacket and follow that up with a .22 cal Gun cleaning rod and a Swab...

I have heard of members doing this and a excess of STUFF came out of the flex... The result was a cooler running FLEX....

Now what to flush it out with??? That is the $75.00 question....
Use a solvent and it could melt the rubber making it useless... I am not going to recommend anything as that will be a call you will need to make....

Good Luck,

AL

malviski
11-15-2009, 03:06 PM
I just want to take the time to say Thank you to everyone who was took the time to respond to my probles with suggestions. I wanted to state this earlier, but my mind was wrapped around the axle on this issue and forgot. I have put the flex shaft in after letting it soak overnight and hanging it to dry for a couple of hours. It started out doing the same thing, but after letting it cool down a couple of time is running a longer and not as hot. I am still keeping a fan on it and monitoring it though. The problem is not fixxed but I think it is getting a little better. Maybe it will work itself out?????

malviski
11-15-2009, 06:15 PM
Got 2 more plaques done and the shaft seems to be doing fine. I removed the small fan i had blowing on the shaft for about 10 minutes and it did get a little hotter, but not like before. I put the fan back on the shaft just to feel more comfortable if I got busy and forgot to check it. It seems to be doing alot better. I hope this may help someone else they way that so many have helped me!!! Thanks again for all the help. I think I am going to get another shaft just in case though. Will update in a few days again.

malviski
11-18-2009, 03:55 PM
I have gotten a number of plaques done now, but it still requires a fan. After doing some more reading on this issue, before the problems arose I was getting this black powder looking substance falling on to the wood. Could the spindle be the problem which is causing the flex shaft to over heat and caused the QC to fail?

fwharris
11-18-2009, 04:13 PM
I have gotten a number aof plaques done now, but it still requiresa a fan. after doing some more reading on this issue befer the problems arose I too was getting this black powder looking substance falling on to the wood. Could the spindle be the problem which is causing the flex shaft to over heat and caused the QC to fail?

Yes that could be a cause. If the flex shaft was over lubed some of the excess lube might have run down into the top bearing of the spindle and toasted the bearings. You can take the top hat off of the spindle to check for excess lube on the top of the bearing.

The black powder is the black coating coming off of the inside of the QC and the bit adapters. A sure sign that the QC is going out.

malviski
11-26-2013, 02:55 PM
I know this is a late reply, but I did get my machine running again. it was the flexshaft. Put a new one in and she was up and running for almost 2 years without issues until my present issue with the cut motor.