I can’t get the bit and holder out ! help !

[scamp62]

Cut my first project and I have a problem !
I can’t get the bit and holder out !
I try to use the tool and no luck, I feel
like I’m going to bind the rim around the
locking head, added some WD-40 to it
with the same results. Are there any tricks
that you can shear with me, it would be appreciated

[DocWheeler]

scamp62,

There are several threads on this subject. Most say that gently tapping the bit/QC and wiggling the bit are the best if I recall correctly.
When you get it out, check to make sure that a screw did not back out of the adapter, and get the chips and dust out of the QC.

[Digitalwoodshop]

First post and my best advice is to order a after market bit chuck called the ROCK..... Not sure how the warranty works with using a rock?

Tap, Turn, Tap, Turn, Tap, Turn..... Use wrench to GENTLY PRY....

AL

First post be sure to read tips and tricks....

[jcorder]

when I have a sticking issue, I use the handle from the tool to tap on the ring of the QC, I have not ever had it not get it to come out...as Al said, be sure to turn the QC as you tap.


good luck
Jeff

[Digitalwoodshop]

Then there is the Sling Shot..... I had forgotten about it....

You pull the QC back and let is snap forward... That has worked for me with stuck bits.... Put some wood or a rag to prevent the bit from sling shotting into metal chipping the bit.... I chipped a V60 bit....

AL

[deemon328]

If you have a flat wrench that will immobilize the QC, you could try to twist the QC to the left as you raise it up. Give the bit a little wiggle and see if it will drop out. Once you finally get it out, use a little 3-in-1 oil on the bit adapter every time you load it. It really helps.

I've been in your shoes. It is not fun. I ordered a rock chuck too because problems with the QC never go away, IMO.

[scamp62]

I Tapped and tapped some more…….it did not help…….trying to find a flat wrench to fit, will try a bicycle shop when they open, anybody out there know the size ?
And please let me know more info on the “Rock Chuck”…like ware can I get one !
I thank you all for you’re input……..I’m new to this and every bit dose help.

[Digitalwoodshop]

As for the ROCK, look for any post by our FAVORITE Member RJustice and see the links at the bottom of Every post. That takes you to his many links of VIDEOS and Order Pages. Ron sells 2 wrenches and the Square Drive bits to remove the QC and install the ROCK. I ordered extra square drive bits as sometimes if the QC is held on with RED Locktite like the one I have, it won't come off even with heat.... I broke 3 tips and gave up...

I would order a second one at lease.

Did you try the SLING Shot yet.... Snapping the QC outer ring.

Good Luck,

AL

[cestout]

Since I have figured out these tricks, I have NO problems with my standard chuck. To get it out, maybe put some oil around the top and try to wiggle the collar up and down, waite and do it again.. Does the collar move up and down? If you can get it move, use the tool to force the bit out by wiggling. If and when you get it cleared, prevent it from happening again. Frequently, every 3rd or 4th carve, oil around the top rim of the chuck and work it up and down. Every second carve put a little oil it the cup at the top of the bit adaptor (from someone else's post - thanks). Occasionally smear a thin film of grease on the adaptor to prevent corrosion or tar buildup. Every time you mount a bit, after you get it in place, pull down on the collar and wiggle it. The bit will seat with zero play and you will not get those dimples in the adaptor from the locking balls. This machine requires patience.
Good Luck
Clint

[traumfanger]

make sure the QC is in the open position for bit removal, remove the flex cable, place a thin screw driver in the hole where the flex cable was and tap the end with a hammer. This should drive the bit out.

[PCW]

Do yourself a favor and get a Rock Chuck. It will save you money in the long run and it makes your machine a better companion.

1/8 of a turn and the bit is in your hand no tricks and low maintenance (more like no maintenance). Quieter and and you don't have to fight it to use it.

Makes me chuckle reading these posts about the stubborn QC problems.

[scamp62]

I tried the screwdriver in the top, and the sling-shot (not sure I’m doing it right) but it still is tight, did not make it out to the bike shop, but did order the Rock Chuck !
I cant tell you how much this has soured my view on this machine, One project and it’s useless until I get a after market part ! I hope things get better then this.
But I do thank all of you for your knowledge that you have shared with a newbe !

[PCW]

Did you order the wrenches and bit removal tool from Ron? If not I would highly recommend getting them. Also you may want to view this website (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,440)for tips on removing the QC. At the bottom of Ron's signature there is also some good YouTube videos that may help. Good Luck

[Digitalwoodshop]

Chances are this was caused by the screws holding the bit in the bit holder backed off while the machine was running and have caught on an edge inside the machine.

That is why it is a good idea to read the tips and tricks and much of this forum before you get yourself into trouble. Bit holder screws have backed out many times in the past and it has been posted many times that you should always remove the screws from NEW bit holders and apply blue locktite. Be sure to wipe off any locktite on the exterior of the screw as it can also cause the bit to stick in the QC.

Another newby error I should mention is the machine arriving with a dry flex shaft... The few that have been mentioned have had the rubber melt or just gotten very hot. So if you have not already done it, get the Chain Lube with molly and follow the instructions in tips and tricks and lube your flex shaft. Over lubrication will cause oil to get to the top spindle bearing and make it fail.

So a new Flex Shaft is about $75.00 and a Spindle or Z Truck is over $100.00 Well worth your time reading the forum and tips and tricks.

So if your not doing your homework and preventive maintenance you have a good chance to get soured again and have no one to blame.

The Sling Shot is done by snapping the QC... If you are not hearing a snap when you let it go it will not shoot the bit holder out of the QC. Another tip I saw was to put a thick board in the machine and press the Z truck down onto the board with the bit pushing into the wood and at the same time pulling up on the QC retainer. If you have a 1/8 inch bit be careful as if you push side to side you could snap the bit off and it will cost you $40.00 for a bit.

Good Luck and do your homework.

AL

[hess]

I tried the screwdriver in the top, and the sling-shot (not sure I’m doing it right) but it still is tight, did not make it out to the bike shop, but did order the Rock Chuck !
I cant tell you how much this has soured my view on this machine, One project and it’s useless until I get a after market part ! I hope things get better then this.
But I do thank all of you for your knowledge that you have shared with a newbe !

Scamp many of us felt the same way. I have 2 and was ready to throw them out by the 3rd week. Once Ron came out with the chuck life with the CW did a 180 and now they are great For many of us the QC just Sucks air but there are many who say they never have problems.
The last time I got a bit stuck in a QC I ended breaking the bit in order to get the adapter out

Never again buck up it will be better

[Digitalwoodshop]

Another TESTIMONIAL that the ROCK saved the DAY.... Turning a Frustrating QC Experience into Past History.....

Turning a FRUSTRATED CARVER into a HAPPY CARVER.... Film at 11.... on YouTube :rolleyes:

I bet Ron has a better chance of having a National Holiday or Day of Recognition named after him. A better chance than MJ..... LOL.....

National RON ROCK day..... FREEDOM Form the QC DAY.:cool:

Yep... Paint fumes..... Pass the Thinner Please...

AL

[rjustice]

Another TESTIMONIAL that the ROCK saved the DAY.... Turning a Frustrating QC Experience into Past History.....

Turning a FRUSTRATED CARVER into a HAPPY CARVER.... Film at 11.... on YouTube :rolleyes:

I bet Ron has a better chance of having a National Holiday or Day of Recognition named after him. A better chance than MJ..... LOL.....

National RON ROCK day..... FREEDOM Form the QC DAY.:cool:

Yep... Paint fumes..... Pass the Thinner Please...

AL

Dang AL.... I am gonna have to put you on the payroll! (if i had one LOL)

All jokes aside, it has been fun getting people to enjoy their machines again. I have dozens of emails like that...

Thank you again to everyone for your support, and feedback... It appears to be making a significant difference!

[scamp62]

The head has zero movement up or down ?(that’s why I thought I was not doing it right)
And I had ordered the #1 kit with the wrenches and bit removal tool

P.S. rjustice if your still there did you get my orders out (i added a bit) out today !!!
i have work to do with thing !!!!

[rjustice]

The head has zero movement up or down ?(that’s why I thought I was not doing it right)
And I had ordered the #1 kit with the wrenches and bit removal tool

P.S. rjustice if your still there did you get my orders out (i added a bit) out today !!!
i have work to do with thing !!!!

I didnt make the cutoff today... everything will go out in the morning though!

Thank you for the order!

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Eliminator WHO?:p


Snooze Zzzzzzz Loose.......

AL

[DickB]

Bit holder screws have backed out many times in the past and it has been posted many times that you should always remove the screws from NEW bit holders and apply blue locktite. Be sure to wipe off any locktite on the exterior of the screw as it can also cause the bit to stick in the QC.

Another newby error I should mention is the machine arriving with a dry flex shaft... The few that have been mentioned have had the rubber melt or just gotten very hot. So if you have not already done it, get the Chain Lube with molly and follow the instructions in tips and tricks and lube your flex shaft. Over lubrication will cause oil to get to the top spindle bearing and make it fail.AL

I don't agree. New bit holders not assembled properly and new flex shafts not properly lubed are not newby errors. These should be properly prepped at the factory. Do you check a new car's differential for proper lube and the head bolts for proper torque before driving it for the first time? I don't - I expect the factory and/or the dealer to give me the car road ready.

[hess]

I don't agree. New bit holders not assembled properly and new flex shafts not properly lubed are not newby errors. These should be properly prepped at the factory. Do you check a new car's differential for proper lube and the head bolts for proper torque before driving it for the first time? I don't - I expect the factory and/or the dealer to give me the car road ready.
Thats a major problem here NEWBIE ERROR Come on when was the last time you had your tires changes that you had to go recheck them??????????

Its called QC and I'm not talkin about the chuck taking about the chuck Capt Ron took care of that age old Newbie Error CW does seem to be taking care or trying to many of the things that affect this machine but it is soo slow but they are working with a company out of their control thus they have no control?
Wow Scary

Sorry to most of you out there but NE just don't buy it anymore if I cont put your wheels on right or god forbid give you a medication that kills you are you going to say well I should have checked it 1st

Here in the U.S we have come to Expect I certain level of competence the rest of the world may not have

So now that all our US companies farm out we now see we are having problem maintaining out level or our expectation of what a product should be.

Sure this is not 100.000 unit but to most of us 2000 is still a bit of change so you expert the small things that are controllable to be done

Sorry for the Rant just hate the NE thing

[Digitalwoodshop]

Looks like I did not phrase that correctly.... and PISSED off a few users...:(

What I wanted to say is that if you read the forum and tips and tricks you will see that there have been posts about the screws on the bit holders and some posts about dry flex shafts in the PAST. Once you read that, as a new owner. you know what to look at when you prep your machine for use. Things that are not in the manual.

So the more you know what to look at the better your experience will be.

There have been very few screw and dry flex problems but they do exist and when found they are posted. Yes it is wrong that they do exist. I am not blaming the problem on the new user, I am posting info that OTHER new users can take to heart when they get a machine.

I am not defending LHR.

So what I should have written is.... "Since you are NEW and have had the screw problem take a look at your flex shaft for the possibility that it was not lubricated at the factory. You need to have the Chain Lube with Molly for the future so lubbing your flex shaft as per the instructions in Tips and Tricks could SAVE you from a problem with the Flex Shaft."

AL

[bjbethke]

Looks like I did not phrase that correctly.... and PISSED off a few users...:(

What I wanted to say is that if you read the forum and tips and tricks you will see that there have been posts about the screws on the bit holders and some posts about dry flex shafts in the PAST. Once you read that, as a new owner. you know what to look at when you prep your machine for use. Things that are not in the manual.

So the more you know what to look at the better your experience will be.

There have been very few screw and dry flex problems but they do exist and when found they are posted. Yes it is wrong that they do exist. I am not blaming the problem on the new user, I am posting info that OTHER new users can take to heart when they get a machine.

I am not defending LHR.

So what I should have written is.... "Since you are NEW and have had the screw problem take a look at your flex shaft for the possibility that it was not lubricated at the factory. You need to have the Chain Lube with Molly for the future so lubbing your flex shaft as per the instructions in Tips and Tricks could SAVE you from a problem with the Flex Shaft."

AL
Hi AL

I think the only lubing on flex shaft is what was done darning manufacturing, and they do not use molly type lube. If there is any vibration in your CW unit it is a good indication that something is wrong. The QC, Z Truck and flex shaft need to operate with out any vibrations. I purchased a ½ inch Rock QC, but I haven’t replaced my QC yet because it has been working OK for the past year. I think it takes about a year to know and learn how this machine works. Being a new user any mistake can cause problems, LHR has been good to me. And with people like you on this forum it has been a great help to me.

NOTE; I think when you become a senior member and 75% of your posts show how this machine works. the STL program should be a free gift for all the benefits you and others give.

BJB

[hess]

Looks like I did not phrase that correctly.... and PISSED off a few users...:(

What I wanted to say is that if you read the forum and tips and tricks you will see that there have been posts about the screws on the bit holders and some posts about dry flex shafts in the PAST. Once you read that, as a new owner. you know what to look at when you prep your machine for use. Things that are not in the manual.

So the more you know what to look at the better your experience will be.

There have been very few screw and dry flex problems but they do exist and when found they are posted. Yes it is wrong that they do exist. I am not blaming the problem on the new user, I am posting info that OTHER new users can take to heart when they get a machine.



I am not defending LHR.

So what I should have written is.... "Since you are NEW and have had the screw problem take a look at your flex shaft for the possibility that it was not lubricated at the factory. You need to have the Chain Lube with Molly for the future so lubbing your flex shaft as per the instructions in Tips and Tricks could SAVE you from a problem with the Flex Shaft."

AL

Al
It is not an attack on you. Hell your the man here! It's just the phrase Sorry if it poked you wrong
Hess

[PCW]

Hi AL


NOTE; I think when you become a senior member and 75% of your posts show how this machine works. the STL program should be a free gift for all the benefits you and others give.

BJB

I honestly think LHR owes Al "who" a couple of new machines for the service he has provided to their customers. I can't think of a nicer way to say Thank You and maybe we could then drop the "who".:)

[hess]

I honestly think LHR owes Al "who" a couple of new machines for the service he has provided to their customers. I can't think of a nicer way to say Thank You and maybe we could then drop the "who".:)
I tend to agree that there should be some ? back to all you all who step up.

You save CW a ton of $$

[scamp62]

For god sakes, I just want to cry ! Got the rock chuck #1 kit and went to remove the QC. And the square tool snapped in half !! so once again I have a 70lbs paperweight. What dose it take to get this thing to work ? I have cut one project (just a test peace) with a $1800.00 machine, and have to replace a faulty component, cost $150.00 (plus express shipping $22.00), and now I have to reorder a new square tool $15.00 I guess I should get 2, $30.00 (plus express shipping $22.00) so $2024.00 for one test peace !
I have to figured out what I will do next, hope that the new square tool is stronger !
Pull the whole carriage out and heat it to soften the locktite ? any input or thoughts of you who have had any luck with this thing. Please let me know…….thanks.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just so you know, I snapped 3 tips last summer and I heated the thing with a Crack torch... I gave up... It was a Reconditioned Truck from LHR and I think they used Forever RED Locktite.

I just changed to another Z Truck then and set it aside.

When I ordered my Rock, I ordered 3 extra tips.... I have 3 machines and know how it is to be Without the proper tool.... The first Rock change went smooth... Be sure to watch the video to make sure you are turning it the correct way.... Just like changing a router bit in a hand router... But the Video helps.

Good Luck,

AL

[PCW]

Try this link (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,440)on CarveSpot it has some tips on the removal of the QC..

[scamp62]

Digitalwood I hate to ask, but what did you have to pay for the Z Truck ?

[scamp62]

And has anybody tried to remove the truck form the box and put in the oven (say about 250 degrees or so) (and yes I’m single…go figure !) to soften up the locktite ?

[PCW]

I would not recommend baking it in the oven.:-D The seals on the bearings are plastic and will melt.

[rjustice]

And has anybody tried to remove the truck form the box and put in the oven (say about 250 degrees or so) (and yes I’m single…go figure !) to soften up the locktite ?

If you have one that has Red Loctite, i very seriously doubt that you could get it hot enough, especially without damaging the seals on the bearings.
I have had some really really tough ones where guys sent me their "Z" truck, and I am sticking to the 1/2" rod method... If you get it to the point of blushing red on the end and hold the heat on it for a minute or two, the truck doesnt get hot at all but the chuck is getting really hot.... it will evenutally loosen right up...
Here is the link again for full instructions... Here (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,440)

[Digitalwoodshop]

Digitalwood I hate to ask, but what did you have to pay for the Z Truck ?

I know the price on the z Truck went up I believe..... They have new trucks and reconditioned trucks. The reconditioned trucks have the nasty habit of the damper around the lower bearing popping off.... Every one that was posted was a reconditioned truck. No warranty... risk is yours...

The damper is the corrugated metal around the lower bearing.

Good Luck,

AL

[scamp62]

Rjustice correct me if I’m wrong.
Take a steel rod (1/2” die) get the tip red hot (blushing ?, is that just getting red, or RED HOT ?) and the put this hot end in the top hat and let it sit in there for a minute or two ?
Then try to jerk it lose ( I hope !)
p.s. can you please get the square tools in the mail as soon as possible, I have some jobs to do, and with all of the problems I have had with this QC I’m quickly getting behind the curve.
p.s.s. please send it to the Smith Rd. address
and last but not least……have the CarveWright people taken a look at your chuck…..
for god sakes yours is so much better, simple, fare less complicated and efficient.
Thanks again for your help and advice

[PCW]

What Ron is referring to is a piece of cold rolled round stock 1/2" X 3" placed in a 1/2" bit adapter instead of the bit. Keeping the heat towards the bottom to where it just showing signs of red but maintain that temp for 2 to 3 min. You may have to control this my moving the flame slightly away at times. Don't forget to put something behind the Z trunk like sheet metal or Aluminum foil to protect the belt.

Just take your time with a 1" flame and it will loosen. If you don't get the right temp you risk that chance of breaking the bit removal tool.

The only thing that goes in the tophat during this process is the bit removal tool.

[rjustice]

Rjustice correct me if I’m wrong.
Take a steel rod (1/2” die) get the tip red hot (blushing ?, is that just getting red, or RED HOT ?) and the put this hot end in the top hat and let it sit in there for a minute or two ?
Then try to jerk it lose ( I hope !)
p.s. can you please get the square tools in the mail as soon as possible, I have some jobs to do, and with all of the problems I have had with this QC I’m quickly getting behind the curve.
p.s.s. please send it to the Smith Rd. address
and last but not least……have the CarveWright people taken a look at your chuck…..
for god sakes yours is so much better, simple, fare less complicated and efficient.
Thanks again for your help and advice

Hi Scott,
Sorry i missed your post before i signed off last night... You didnt get the instructions correct at all... You want to clamp up the 1/2 diameter dowel in one of your QC style bit adapters leaving about 5/8 sticking out the top ( the end that goes in the spindle)... Then mount this up in the QC... and while it is mounted heat the bottom end of the dowel up (the end that is sticking out of the QC a couple inches) till it starts to get red, and maintain the heat for a minute or two... all the heat is transferring up into the rod, to the oppisite end, eventually getting to the loctite, heating it up at the exact correct spot.
Please be very cautious and dont get burned. Once you break the loctite loose, you can screw it most of the way off, and allow it to cool down before trying to handle it. Be sure to use the foil as instructed in the link, and place a cookie sheet or something on the sandpaper belts just in case it would drop off when it is hot.

Your tools are packaged up right now, and will go out Monday morning. Remember, you have to be patient with this... if you give it time to soak the heat up to the threads, it will come off rather easy..

Note if there are others that are trying to do this please read the full instructions in this LINK (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,440)

Good Luck, and Happy Carving!

[rjustice]

Scott,
I just thought about something... If you were not able to get the tool out of the chuck at all, you will have to go another route, as you will not be able to get the 1/2 bit adapter up into your QC... Please PM me with your phone number and i will call you to discuss another method that i know will work for your situation as well.

Thanks,

Ron

[scamp62]

1st I thank you all for the help and suggestion !
2nd A big thank you to DigitalWood !! (for convincing me to get the Rock Chuck)
3rd a heroes her-raa to rjustice !!!! you make one hell of a chuck…….love it

I ended up purchasing a new Z truck (the QC came off just as rjustice sad it would,
Installed the new parts, and I cutting my 2nd project !!
Again I just wanted to say thank you to you all !!!

[pfdford]

For anyone having difficulty removing the Quick Change chuck, I found an easy method. The pdf that Carvewright provides with their instructions says to use small, quick motions instead of constant pressure. I tried that and wasn't successful with that approach. Instead, I did the following and it worked quite well:

1. Remove the flexshaft receptacle (on top of the Z-truck).
2. Using the proper adapters, attach the Spindle Square Recess Wrench (LHR part number A006-00026) to an impact wrench (I used a 1/2" air impact).
3. Insert the Spindel Wrench from the top of the machine.
4. Hold backup with a 7/8 wrench as mentioned in the Carvewright pdf.
5. Give the impact wrench a short burst and the QC chuck will loosen with no problem at all. One word of caution - make certain you have the direction of roation set correctly on the impact wrench.

[dbfletcher]

I really like this idea. Anyone want to chime in on WHY we should used this method? It sounds like it accomplishes exactly what is recommended (quick short burst instead of constant torque), but if there is a downside I'd like to know about it before I try it on mine. I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of my Rock.

Doug Fletcher

[Digitalwoodshop]

Well... I stripped the square drive on top of the spindle in the first 6 months I had my first machine and at that time LHR brought it in and fixed it at NO CHARGE.... Since then I have learned how to fix the machine.

It was MY fault stripping the top.... Using the 90 degree that they sent me, hand ground Allen wrench to a square...

I was grateful to LHR for fixing it.

AL

[dbfletcher]

I really like this idea. Anyone want to chime in on WHY we should used this method? It sounds like it accomplishes exactly what is recommended (quick short burst instead of constant torque), but if there is a downside I'd like to know about it before I try it on mine. I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of my Rock.

Doug Fletcher

Whoops.... I meant to say "shouldnt"