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Dhaffner
07-09-2009, 12:49 AM
First off, this 3D model comes from the google 3D warehouse. Credit listed as "birdman"...the model is the M6G pistol. It's a non-existent weapon from the game Halo.

I had a little blow-out on the rear of the gun detailing, but not bad considering the scale and wood choice (aspen..a pine variety?) That stuff is fuzzy! I'm going to enlarge it just a hair and try it in a little more dense wood with less fuzz.

But in the meantime, here it is...

details: each section is about 9" long. It took 3:47:00 to carve.

I love this application. Seriously.

I'll post another pic when the glue dries and I get it sanded.

eromran
07-09-2009, 07:23 AM
That's going to really turn out cool. A couple of Questions did you add the tabs or the did the program and what about the larger carved out area (below trigger) was that carved out or did it cut around it then pop out? Hope i was clear in what i was asking.

Dhaffner
07-09-2009, 09:19 AM
Good questions....
The tabs are added manually (which rocks because I can put them in the least annoying spots. There is a carve region around the objects, which is set to pierce...so the machine carves out all the open spaces. Here are a couple shots with it glued up. The manual tabs addition was fantastic, by the way. Way to go LHR!

Doug

cnsranch
07-09-2009, 11:16 AM
Man, you guys are really making me want to spend some more money....

HelpBot3000
07-10-2009, 01:29 AM
Those look really good! I'm impressed how accurate they came out. I'm a Halo nut so if you do any more weapons, UNSC or Covenant, make sure you post pics.

liquidguitars
07-10-2009, 01:46 AM
nice work.. looking at the tabs make me think of lost wax casting..

LG

Dhaffner
07-10-2009, 11:13 AM
I'm going to try this gun again....just about 20% bigger (it's small in my big hand) and I'm going to do it on "Optimum"...boy I can't tell you what a difference that "Optimum" setting makes. It's worth every minute of extra carving time. I just finished a copy of the "ghost buster logo" I put in the pattern sharing area on that setting and it was amazing how smooth it came out, and how little sanding was needed. I'm stunned.

mostlycold
07-10-2009, 03:34 PM
nice work.. looking at the tabs make me think of lost wax casting..

LG

I just took a class in LWC from Milon Townsend at the Vegas Int'l Hot Glass show last March and your comment triggered a question. When you are done carving a 3D on the CW, is it possible to get a smooth enough finish to cast it? I have all the equipment and supplies to do LCW, but didn't think the CW would be able to get a model smooth enough for me to cast in glass (without endless hours of sanding). I am thinking wood, but not aware of what else the CW could carve and leave any smoother. Have the same question on carving Kaiser board, if I could get a really smooth (2D) finish, I could create my own glass molds for the kiln. Any info on experience with this appreciated.

Warning: if you attempt to carve with this product, make sure you are wearing a very good quality respirator, have great cross ventillation, and HEPA level filters on your dust control equipment. This is nasty stuff and you don't want it on you, or in you!

liquidguitars
07-10-2009, 08:49 PM
I think so, my son does lamp making "Pyrex" and we where thinking about if graphite block for molds and marves in a sled would work, i don't have that much knowledge on glass mold making and how to handel the clamping pressures/remove bubbles.

We have a member that did a aluminum spoon in green sand casting but hand work is still needed.

LG

joesighting
07-15-2009, 05:01 PM
That's freakin cool Doug! I was thinking of doing a Halo helmet. I love the gun. I was just on this forum the other day. http://405th.com/forums/index.php?act=idx All they do is make Halo costumes and props. You should show off your gun there. Spread the CarveWright love!

Joe

Dhaffner
07-15-2009, 07:11 PM
Good idea! I'll register and post....