Wood Choice

[waynethornton]

I have carving a few signs and designs into pine but get poor results even in the best mode. Is there certain woods that hadle small details better than others and if so, can someone please give me an idea ? Thanks for the forum and all the help as I am new to wood carving on the cw.
Thanks
Wayne
Houston

[easybuilt]

I have found clear poplar does well and is a dense but softer wood so it is not had on your CW and the price is close to pine. By changing the cut "quality" makes a big difference on your cuts and less to clean up.

[b.sumner47]

I have had good results with poplar as well. I've just finished a sign for my church,used red cedar-nice . Picture to follow soon. Capt.Barry

[ChrisAlb]

I also use poplar and I like it albeit it's rather stringy and leaves more fuzzies. However, most of my carvings are done in yellow pine and I get great results.

It has everything to do with your depth and height settings. Very tall text and tall, thin sections of patterns will chip regardless of the wood used. The proper use of "draft" is also a big help. The image the pattern was made from is a BIG factor as well.

I've carved (many times) raised raster text in pine as small as 1/2" high and 1/4" wide with no problems. Tilting your board so you see it from an angle is a great way to see the heights change while adjusting height and depth. You want to keep small, thin parts close to bottom.

Do a search on "Chipping" for a lot more info on it covered by myself and many others.

[mark1945]

I do alot of mine in yellow pine or red cedar,both carve great in optimum setting.Just carved a clock in sycamore it is awsome wood for ease of clean up.Have never had good luck with poplar only source for me is lowes or home depot,not impressed with either, to soft and fuzzy for me.

[mtylerfl]

I do alot of mine in yellow pine or red cedar,both carve great in optimum setting.Just carved a clock in sycamore it is awsome wood for ease of clean up.Have never had good luck with poplar only source for me is lowes or home depot,not impressed with either, to soft and fuzzy for me.

Any tight-grained wood should do well. I mostly use Select Pine from Lowes - kiln dried, flat, straight, great quality wood. I've not been very happy with Poplar - at least the Poplar that's sold in my area just "fuzzes up" too much - plus the Poplar here usually has a sort of random "greenish" coloration that I don't particularly care for.

Avoid "wet" cheap pine like the plague.

Red oak can be nice, but is more prone to chip out on finer raised details due to the open grain nature of the wood. White oak is a little tighter grain.

Walnut and Cherry has already been reported by many to yield the finest detail and smoothest carvings.

[earlyrider]

Has anyone tried Douglass fir? I saw some next to the select pine at Lowes also. So far, my absolute favorite is walnut; great detail and almost no sanding required at optimal.:-D
Ron

[TIMCOSBY]

Any tight-grained wood should do well. I mostly use Select Pine from Lowes - kiln dried, flat, straight, great quality wood. I've not been very happy with Poplar - at least the Poplar that's sold in my area just "fuzzes up" too much - plus the Poplar here usually has a sort of random "greenish" coloration that I don't particularly care for.

Avoid "wet" cheap pine like the plague.

Red oak can be nice, but is more prone to chip out on finer raised details due to the open grain nature of the wood. White oak is a little tighter grain.

Walnut and Cherry has already been reported by many to yield the finest detail and smoothest carvings.


color will change with time to a redish brown and looks a lot like mahogany when finished.

[mtylerfl]

color will change with time to a redish brown and looks a lot like mahogany when finished.

Thanks for the info, Tim!

[mtylerfl]

Has anyone tried Douglass fir? I saw some next to the select pine at Lowes also. So far, my absolute favorite is walnut; great detail and almost no sanding required at optimal.:-D
Ron

As long as the Douglas Fir is dry (i.e.,kiln dried), it would probably carve alright. If you try it, please let us know the result.

Just an aside...I was speaking with LHR the other day and mentioned that I was befuddled why some folks seem to experience a "chain reaction" of problems that I have not experienced with either of my two machines. I do not use any special QC modifications, or any dust collection system, or anything other than the "stock" machines. The person I spoke with mentioned that one probable reason I don't have any major machine issues is that I use "good wood". I bought 5 Select Pine boards yesterday from Lowes. The clerk commented how expensive it was - $110 for just five boards (three 1x8x8ft, two 1x12x8ft). I told her yes, but it's worth it!

[twinpeaksenterprises, LLC]

I havnt tried pine in the CW yet but have had pleasing results with all. The poplar does have alot of fuzzies and makes alot of dust, but the poplar works great when painting a carving.The best results i have had was with the harder woods such as hickory or the harder maple species. Usually if the wood in my experience was over 12% (ex. air dried) then it is stringy and will sometimes warp with deep relief carving. Although i have had some good carvings with air dried, it usually in my opinion would take a year or longer under certain circumstances to become stable enough to attempt projects with. Just my opinion and two cents.:roll: I would like to see some Douglas Fir, especially after watching Ax Men where they were logging the fir. Happy Carving Matt.

[waynethornton]

thank you for input, i have been using different types of wood and can clearly see a difference with tight grained wood. what a true blessing to have such a forum to share experience and wisdom on. thanks again :-D

[TIMCOSBY]

As long as the Douglas Fir is dry (i.e.,kiln dried), it would probably carve alright. If you try it, please let us know the result.

Just an aside...I was speaking with LHR the other day and mentioned that I was befuddled why some folks seem to experience a "chain reaction" of problems that I have not experienced with either of my two machines. I do not use any special QC modifications, or any dust collection system, or anything other than the "stock" machines. The person I spoke with mentioned that one probable reason I don't have any major machine issues is that I use "good wood". I bought 5 Select Pine boards yesterday from Lowes. The clerk commented how expensive it was - $110 for just five boards (three 1x8x8ft, two 1x12x8ft). I told her yes, but it's worth it!


i don't do all this stuff that everyone else does and have no problems so far and i use all kinds of wood most of it just air dried and sometimes straight off the sawmill.

[TIMCOSBY]

Thanks for the info, Tim!

if you put it where the sun can hit it it wiil change faster.

[dcalvin4]

I am from the n. east ohio and I mostly get my wood from fallen trees , saw mill them , dry and go. This is a hobby in itself and takes countless hours to saw, deliver to saw mill,pick up wood f saw mill , bring home , stack wood,wait 1 year, then plane, joiner a straight edge, rip to width, glue the pieces together and finaly to the carving machine. so I sometimes think that I should just go and buy my wood at the store like normal people do but hey whos to say what normal is.I am to a point that i cant thro any scraps away cause I make bandsaw boxes from them, or i find a small pattern and just have to try carving it.OK OK ENOUGH if,, I say if,, I were to buy wood, the best and most econical wood to buy is stair treads they are at least a full inch thick 11 in. wide and are a real good grade wood. At the store pick up the tread and look at the cut off end , some are venier and some solid wood I WOOD GUESS either wood carve real nice. they are at a reasonable price.
Denny

[SteveEJ]

I have had great luck with Alder. It is a lot like Cherry in it's finish but a little lighter in the weight.

Steve

[Kenm810]

I lean a little towards Hard Maple,
it carves crisp with a minimal amount of fuzzes,
and takes water or spirit based Stains nicely. :wink:

[mtylerfl]

I have had great luck with Alder. It is a lot like Cherry in it's finish but a little lighter in the weight.

Steve

I remodeled an entire kitchen using Alder, back in 1976-ish. Took me two months of "hard labor" - made all the framing and paneled cabinet doors with it. (I used Alder because it was the only wood I could afford at the time from our local lumber yard in Winslow, AZ!) It does take a finish nicely and was easy to work with, as I recall.

I'll need to try carving some on the CW (if I can find any around here!).

[bobtom]

I just finished a carving in oak and was surprised buy
the fuzzies that appeared. I wasn't thinking about the
grain when I started this project. I assumed that ( from
past experience ) it would carve well.
This is my first experience with the carvrwright on oak.

What wood seems to work best for intricate carving?
I'll consider any options. Walnut? Cherry? Can't get
Hickory in this area.
Thanks in advance
Bobtom

[Dan-Woodman]

You got it , cherry and walnut. I just finished carving some white oak quarter sawn, which carved real nice.
later Daniel

[bobtom]

Thanks again. I just came back from the
Lumber yard. Bought some small pieces of cherry
and some maple to try. I will let you know how it
turns out

Bobtom

[supershingler]

ive tried everything pine, oak, cherry, walnut, ash,alder,maple and b.e. maple.

i get the fuzzies with all of it. i think it is because were carving across the grain of the board. try this once... turn your board the other direction with the grain running from the keypad to the back of the machine if the patternis under 14". ive done a couple of these and the result is almmost no fuzzies.

i just made a fireplace front out of alder. first time i used alder. i will post some pictures when im done


just my two cents worth.

[SteveEJ]

I remodeled an entire kitchen using Alder, back in 1976-ish. Took me two months of "hard labor" - made all the framing and paneled cabinet doors with it. (I used Alder because it was the only wood I could afford at the time from our local lumber yard in Winslow, AZ!) It does take a finish nicely and was easy to work with, as I recall.

I'll need to try carving some on the CW (if I can find any around here!).

The 'Wilderness Clock' i carved was in Alder. Surned out very nice! Not much for fuzzies and 3m disc's cleaned it right up.

[Woodhacker]

I have read ALL these posts about what is the best wood to carve with. My problem is this: here in west central Florida we are very limited as to the types we can get unless we order it online. The wood they have at our local Lowe's and HD (red oak, poplar, select pine) are about we can get locally. Cherry, walnut, and all those other great carving woods just aren't available to us. Ya'll yankees get all the good wood!~!!!! lol

[Digitalwoodshop]

All this wood advice... Outstanding !!!!

Let's look at the Machine side of this too.... I see the first post has a low number of posts so the machine is most likely new.

I think we have all seen the improvement in carving QUALITY and LESS FUZZES after we changed to the ROCK.... In my signs using Modern Font and Outline mode I no longer have the center of the "A" chipped or broken using the ROCK.

ROCK ON !!!!

AL

[badger]

I have read ALL these posts about what is the best wood to carve with. My problem is this: here in west central Florida we are very limited as to the types we can get unless we order it online. The wood they have at our local Lowe's and HD (red oak, poplar, select pine) are about we can get locally. Cherry, walnut, and all those other great carving woods just aren't available to us. Ya'll yankees get all the good wood!~!!!! lol

Im not sure how close this one is http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/store.aspx?id=581

but they offer a wide range of all types of wood in most of their stores.

Can be a bit pricer than lowes but if your looking for a special wood for a special project they would probably have it.

[AskBud]

I went to < msn.com > and searched the Yellow Pages for "Lumber" in Florida.
I get a list with a map. Move the map, via the Icon, and it shows places in that area of the map.

Now, all that is left, is to call and see if they have a wide enough selection to make your trip worthwhile.
AskBud
http://www.bing.com/maps/Default.aspx?encType=1&v=2&ss=yp.lumber~sst.0~pg.1&where1=&style=r&cp=nqx8zz85m4gt&lvl=11&FORM=LLSV

[TerryT]

Although in my area I can find almost any type of wood, it can be very expensive in some places. Cherry, for example, can range from $8 to $15BF and only comes in small sizes.

I make two or three trips a year, 90 miles north to Colville WA (way out in lumberjack country). I joined the woodworkers network which is located there. It is a huge warehouse full of tools and every type of wood you can imagine. I buy guaranteed 80% heartwood, american black cherry in sizes up to 12 in wide and 16 ft long. It is a two hour drive there and two hours back but the nicest cherry boards around run $5.99 BF. Last trip I purchased black walnut, several different types of maple, cherry and some alder. I loaded up my pickup truck, spent about $400 and still have plenty of project lumber left, and Im going on about 4 months since my last trip.

[Ike]

I noticed one thing that has not been addressed. The OP asked what is a good wood choice for signs. What hasn't been addressed is are the signs for inside or outside applications?

All the lumber mentioned is great for inside signs, but for outside my choice would be redwood. I know it is not available to all so my next choice would be cedar and even cypress. I have a little experience in signs about 29 years!

Yes with redwood and cedar you get the fuzzies, so to fix it I have always used a torch and lightly burn them off. The position of the grain when carving makes a huge difference too. With vertical grain lumber it doesn't matter as much, but with flat grain it does. It also helps in a straighter and cleaner carve.

I buy rough cut material because kiln dried redwood is expensive! Of course with rough cut material requires a few more shop tools! That is a good thing! I use my planer and jointer and table saw to make my redwood S4S. When I buy the redwood I try to buy the least wet wood and check it with a moisture meter.

Anyway I thought it should be addressed if the signs are for outside use. With any lumber the end grain needs to be sealed well to avoid cracking and warping when used outside!

Ike

[ChrisAlb]

3 coats of marine spar varnish and about anything is good for years outside. Almost all my signs made for customers were simply Pine, Oak, Ash etc...

Keeps them UV protected, expands and contracts with temp and hey, they coat boats with it....LOL

[TerryT]

3 coats of marine spar varnish and about anything is good for years outside.

Yep, I make lots of interior and exterior signs and I use lots of different types of wood. Outside signs get gloss spar varnish. Although I agree with Ike on the Cedar it makes beautiful signs and carves smoother than redwood in my opinion.

[Ike]

Terry I agree 2nd growth redwood is not the greatest unless you have heart wood. I use only heart wood and hardly use 2nd growth! Chris I need to disagree with spar marine varnish, it is great for boats and salt water etc. I stay away from varnish I like a polyurethane. It covers white paint clear and with varnishes they have an amber tint.

I have been using Cabot water based polyurethane and it seems to work great! It has an amber tint, but goes over white great! I guess we all have our favorites, it comes down to what you like to use!

Ike

[TerryT]

Ike, I use Columbia paints Gloss Master spar varnish. I don't have experience with any others so I can't say about the yellowing. I haven't noticed it though with this stuff. Drying time is incredibly long though. Probably as long or longer than polyurethane. Does the water based stuff give good protection?

[Ike]

Terry, polyurethane dries faster then varnish. Water base not only gives great protection, but the drying time is 20 minutes or less. I spray my finish in the sun and within 20 minutes or less I spray another coat. I tried another brand called Hydrocote and used it for years. The problem is it was cracking and peeling off. It went on thick and became like plastic, the Cabot I am using goes on thinner and sprays great!

I bought the Cabots from Lowes, I used a water based poly years ago I can't remember its name. But it lasted for about 3 years before needing refinished.

Ike

[ChrisAlb]

Chris I need to disagree with spar marine varnish, it is great for boats and salt water etc. I stay away from varnish I like a polyurethane. It covers white paint clear and with varnishes they have an amber tint.
Ike

Hey whatever works for you Ike. I've been using Helmsman for about a year over white and never had a problem. Clear as glass. And yes, the fact that it protects in salt water is all the more better for plain rain and snow....LOL

All the marinas around here use it. We don't have too many salt water lakes here in PA...LOL

[Ike]

Chris I will give it a try! I haven't used it in years! I am in no means an expert in finishing! I just need a finish that dries fast at events I am making signs on the spot. But I will try spar varnish again on signs that I have time.

Can you spray it? That is what I like about the water based poly easy to spray, dries fast and easy clean up. So no yellowing on white? That is a good thing!

Ike

[ChrisAlb]

I'm not trying to sway you Ike and believe me, I'm no finisher either...LOL Many of my posts will attest to that.

Actually, about all I do is spray it on..(hate brushes)...I get it in spray cans for small signs and in qt. cans for my sprayer on bigger jobs.

Clean up is a pain in the butt. No water here for sure. Mineral spirits at best. I've never used the water based stuff you talk about but if it works as well outdoors, I'd rather.

[Ike]

Chris I guess I am having an almost senior moment ( will be 46 in Sept.!) I have seen it in a spray can! I have been using water base for such a long time I don't look at anything else.

Stay away from Hydrocote from Hood products. Great indoor application, but I can attest it sucks for outdoors! It sprays so great and leaves the best finish smooth and no sanding in between coats or a need for a sanding sealer. But in the wind it peels and it claims to have a UV inhibitor, but the sun eats it up!

I have high hopes for the Cabots poly I bought from Lowes. It gives a warm glow and covers well and dries quick.

Lol how did the wood choice turn into finishes choice? I love this forum and the members! I would say it is the fumes, but water base is non toxic and low odor! Chris, spar is not!
Ike

[Azbear]

Ike, ...an almost senior moment? After 50, one forgets the most learned basics, then one forgets not to tell others he just had one...

sorry for jumping in, forgot my manners as well...

Bear





Chris I guess I am having an almost senior moment ( will be 46 in Sept.!) I have seen it in a spray can! I have been using water base for such a long time I don't look at anything else.

Stay away from Hydrocote from Hood products. Great indoor application, but I can attest it sucks for outdoors! It sprays so great and leaves the best finish smooth and no sanding in between coats or a need for a sanding sealer. But in the wind it peels and it claims to have a UV inhibitor, but the sun eats it up!

I have high hopes for the Cabots poly I bought from Lowes. It gives a warm glow and covers well and dries quick.

Lol how did the wood choice turn into finishes choice? I love this forum and the members! I would say it is the fumes, but water base is non toxic and low odor! Chris, spar is not!
Ike

[Ike]

Bear, not a problem I have 4 years to go including being able to join AARP! As old as I look you would think I am past 50 years old!

Ike

[Woodhacker]

:confused: Wondering now if I am the oldest one in the bunch...lol
Turned 64 in February, and I have LOTSA senior monents!!

[earlyrider]

You've got 10 on me, old man!:mrgreen:
Ron

[pkunk]

OK, I'll chime in.:) I use scraps from my cabinet shop, and the current fad is alder. It is known as the poor mans cherry and it carves crisply. For outdoor signs, the least expensive and most durable wood is western red cedar. It is soft but fine grained. It also makes a nice crisp carve with centerline. Put a UV oil finish like Messmers UV plus on it and it will last for many years. If you want real detail for a raster carve, use hard maple, Ipe, or real black cherry. I'm 66 and tried 'em all since the CW came out. The thing to look for if you want quality is good grain. I can't teach that on the internet.

[DocWheeler]

(good grain) I can't teach that on the internet.

Paul,

Perhaps you could be more helpful than you realize on that topic.

[pkunk]

Paul,

Perhaps you could be more helpful than you realize on that topic.
Pictures don't work, & trying to describe it other than tight, straight grain is not something I'm capable of. I have to feel it, see it, to know it.