Motor stopped in the middle of a simple carve

[jpitz31]

Hello,

I was carving a simple .154 deep carve region, towards the end of the carve the motor stopped but the carving continued. Of course the bit broke.

I changed the bit, set up a simple .125 circle cut so I could cut air to see if the motor would run and finish the job. Ran the program and the motor and program ran fine. I am going to call LHR tomorrow. Wanted to get some feed back?

Thanks

Joe

[Digitalwoodshop]

For the cut motor to quit it can be a few things...

First is the Right side cover switch. If the screws come loose on the switch it can cause the cut motor to stop. I have found to get a better bite on the screws to hold the switch I removed the plastic cover. The right switch is the return path for the motor and part of the safety circuit.

Second is a loose wire at the clear plugs see picture 1.

Third is a broken C1 Cap on the X Termination Board under the machine. Picture 2.

Fourth is a stuck Brush in the motor.... Sometimes happens.

More than likely 1 or 2.

I see you live near where I worked on weekends at a Microwave Antenna Company in San Marcos while I was in the Navy. http://www.microwavespecialty.com/ Later worked at Sony down the road in Rancho Bernardo making Picture Tubes.

Let us know what you found.

AL

[jpitz31]

Thanks Al,

I knew that you would have an answer. ;-)

Joe

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just finished making a batch of Fire Tags and was heading to the house for Dinner and checked the Forum and saw your post... Lucky... A 2 Min Reply...

Good Luck,

AL

[jpitz31]

Small World,

Yes, I work for Denso Wireless in Vista, right around the corner from San Marcos. We use to live in Rancho Bernardo.

I will check later this afternoon, got to do some wife projects now.

Also after reading you post on the z motor I see that I have the old z motor on my brand new CW. I am going to call LHR tomorrow. I am still under warranty.

Thanks

Joe

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes small world. I lived in Vista/Oceanside in Shadowridge near Canon Rd.

Get the new Z Bundle, it will save you a problems later.

AL

[jpitz31]

Al,

When I saw your image of the wires on the right hand side of the cover, concerning the mircoswitch something clicked. I just cut the cover down to fit my dust collector. I went back and checked the cover and the right hand side had some melted plastic hanging down where I jig sawed the lid.

I checked to hear just how high I had to lift the lid to trigger the microswitch to disengage it. It was not much. So I trimmed the cover down a bit more on the right side. I am thinking that the cover might have been bumped a bit during and triggered the switch.

I will do some more cutting and keep an eye on the other items on your list.

The machine has only two hours and 23 minutes on it.

Now that Rod has the inserts available for the rock chuck I am thinking very seriously about picking up one. When I took the broken bit out and looked at the QC bit holder, it had wear marks where the black anodized finish was worn down in spots. Almost like a hammered pattern.

This QC is the one that came with the machine, just over two hours.
Makes me nervous just looking at it.


Thanks Al,

Joe

[PCW]

Joe

I think you will be very happy with the Rock Chuck. It will outlast your carvewright machine. There is a notable difference in the sound as well as the vibration.

So I take it you are going with the updraft DC system Through the top lid.

[jpitz31]

Yes, Dan,

Here is an image of my setup.

Next step is some sound proofing ( Mass Loaded Vinyl) on the walls and ceiling around the CW.

Thanks

Joe

[PCW]

Joe

Looks good and you will notice a lot less problems with the machine by controlling the dust. I thought on this for a long time and wanted to go with the updraft because I think that is the way to go. I ended doing the downdraft with a air sweep for the simplicity and figured I can change later once I figured out a better way to make a DC port. I was trowing around the idea of using a clear material like Plexiglas that would allow for more visibility.

Before you go to the expense of sound proofing you may want to try the Rock Chuck first because your machine will run so much quieter.

I am really glad you purchase the CW machine because I think that you will be bringing a lot of knowledge to this forum and that is always welcome. Keep up the good work.

[jpitz31]

Thanks Dan,

Yes, The only place to get the 1/8" cutting bits locally is Sears. I stopped by and tried to find just the bit, No luck, I had to buy the bit and QC bit holder. Rather expensive at $52.00 out the door. I came home and ordered the rock chuck, sleeves and some cutting bits. In the future if I break a bit all I have to do is replace the bit.

You are so correct on keeping the machine clean, Before I put the dust collector on, I could run 1 part then had to clean the machine. If I tried to run two parts I would get a Y axis stall because of the saw dust collecting on the y rail rollers.

I am also thinking about adding either a down draft or a compressed air blower like Jeff did. I find that, even with the top dust collector I find some sawdust sitting in the cut path. I ran my compressor hose to the CW and every once in a while I have to blow off the cut path.

I eventually want to set up a unattended operation so that I can run all night. The blower should make that easier.

Thanks

Joe

[PCW]

Joe

Have you had a chance to check out Pratyeka DC (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,414). He feels pretty comfortable leaving the machine running home alone.

He is running a modified Eliminator Chuck and notice the lid modification its out of the way and stationary but you just have to use the stop button as a E stop which I feel is the good way to do it. It would be easy to add a E stop button to the machine if one felt the need. Two less senors to deal with and no lid in the way. Pratyeka shares a common wall with neighbors without any complaints.

I hope that LHR addresses the DC in the near future. It would be nice to have this built into or added on as OEM.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I run my machine unattended in the wood shop next door and listen with a wireless intercom. I even listen at the house during meals if I am rushed to get work done.

Last summer I was working out on my deck and the machine was running. I was within 10 feet of the machine and all of a sudden I hear my wood shop smoke alarm go off. I turn and look to see black smoke rising from my machine. I rushed to the machine expecting to find that the wood was on fire but soon saw it was the rubber on the flex shaft. I had kinked the spring in the flex shaft when the machine was sitting in the sun for a few hours while I was repairing it. The kink was metal to metal with the shaft turning and caused the failure.

Some recommendations for unattended use.

I plan to using a i switch http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17351&cookietest=1

I tested it and it works with the CW. Only turns on the dust collector when the Cut Motor comes on. I plan to plug a wall wort 24 volt transformer into the Vacuum Outlet and let that turn on a 24 volt relay that runs the 220 volt dust collector. That way when the CW goes to bit change the dust collector starts or more importantly if there is a problem with the CW the dust collector does not add to the problem.

The second is a Smoke Detector.... Above your machine....

I am going to go with a 115 volt version that has a relay in it that normally triggers the home alarm. In my case I will wire it to a relay that opens cover switch circuit in the event of smoke.... The Wired Shop....

A camera would be nice and a remote stop switch too... but that would be over kill for most.... I remember the night I was listening to the machine cut from the Laser Shop and it threw a bit and was GRINDING... The run to the shop never took SO LONG.... Having a stop switch wired to the cover switch on my Laser Desk would have helped....

Good Luck !!!!

AL

[Pratyeka]

Joe

Have you had a chance to check out Pratyeka DC (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,414). He feels pretty comfortable leaving the machine running home alone.

He is running a modified Eliminator Chuck and notice the lid modification its out of the way and stationary but you just have to use the stop button as a E stop which I feel is the good way to do it. It would be easy to add a E stop button to the machine if one felt the need. Two less senors to deal with and no lid in the way. Pratyeka shares a common wall with neighbors without any complaints.

I hope that LHR addresses the DC in the near future. It would be nice to have this built into or added on as OEM.

May I add that I plan to rewire external switches to replace the cover switches. So that I can make the machine believe I have opened the cover. As of now I put cable-ties on the cover switches.
Also, after several hours with my DC arrangement, I can confirm that no wood dust accumulates anywhere in the machine. That makes cleaning it up a real charm, just a rag on the axis and light oil. Cleanup time between carves: less than 3 minutes:D

[jpitz31]

Al,

Thanks for the tips on running unattended. Makes a lot of sense.

Pratyeka, Thanks for the info on the lid micro switches. I will take a closer look at your design.

Joe