Set-up for using different bits

[glassocean]

Hello,
Newbie here. I'm wondering how to program in the use of 2 different bits for one project. I want to cut out a simple circle, so I'm starting with the 1/16" carving bit. The hole ends up being tapering because of the bit shape. How can I program it to clean up the circle (make it straight all the way thru) with a 1/8" straight bit?

Thanks
Jeff

[DocWheeler]

glassocean,

You can assign a bit to each line you draw - actually you can assign two bits to a single line if you chose a different function like cut-out.

If all you want to do is produce a round hole, say 2", you would select "circle", size it, select cut-out, select flip or not, select the number of tabs to hold the cutout in position, and jiggle the offset/inset if you wish.

HTH

[Digitalwoodshop]

I just used Cut Path to cut out a oval sign and when you select the cut path look at the options it gives you to control the depth of cut.

A Cut Path will cut all the way through

A Circle then assign a 1/8 straight bit lets you assign the depth of the cut so you could cut all the way through or only cut down 1/2 inch. The DANGER in using this method of cutting through is that the last cut does not leave tabs to hold the wood block and if it flops around it will snap a bit.

In this mode you can also control how deep it cuts in each pass by selecting something like .25 or 1/4 inch at a time.

Same with a Cut Path. By default it will drill all the way through and then cut full depth around your circle leaving tabs. Today I cut one sign and used .25 as the depth of cut. The Speed of the Cut Path is very QUICK so with the second sign I changed the depth of cut to .20

Be sure to read Tips and Tricks as it has a bunch of stuff you need to know like the 7 inch rule of wood, Tabs, Sleds and Carrier Boards.

Cut path uses the 1/8 inch cutting bit or you can buy a 1/16 inch cutting bit.

Both are different than the CARVING bit that is tapered. Don't use the Carving bit for a Cut Path.

Good Luck,

AL

[glassocean]

Thanks Ken,
That did it. I'm sure I'll have many more dumb questions over the next few weeks.

Jeff

[glassocean]

I just used Cut Path to cut out a oval sign and when you select the cut path look at the options it gives you to control the depth of cut.

A Cut Path will cut all the way through

A Circle then assign a 1/8 straight bit lets you assign the depth of the cut so you could cut all the way through or only cut down 1/2 inch. The DANGER in using this method of cutting through is that the last cut does not leave tabs to hold the wood block and if it flops around it will snap a bit.

In this mode you can also control how deep it cuts in each pass by selecting something like .25 or 1/4 inch at a time.

Same with a Cut Path. By default it will drill all the way through and then cut full depth around your circle leaving tabs. Today I cut one sign and used .25 as the depth of cut. The Speed of the Cut Path is very QUICK so with the second sign I changed the depth of cut to .20

Be sure to read Tips and Tricks as it has a bunch of stuff you need to know like the 7 inch rule of wood, Tabs, Sleds and Carrier Boards.

Cut path uses the 1/8 inch cutting bit or you can buy a 1/16 inch cutting bit.

Both are different than the CARVING bit that is tapered. Don't use the Carving bit for a Cut Path.

Good Luck,

AL

Thanks Al,
So is there a need foe a run out board underneath the actual work piece when using the cut-out feature?


Jeff

[DocWheeler]

glassocean (Jeff),

Since the bit is in an area between the sandpaper belts, the bit does not hit anything under the board.

To add to your possible confusion, you can now have a board (carrier board) under your project board and still use a cutout without harming the carrier board (well... most of the time). Older versions of the software did not allow that.

[glassocean]

Ken,
Thanks for the info. After playing with the software a bit, so much more makes sense.

Another basic question is this. I made a simple 5"x5" square cut out, and the actual piece (that was cut out) was about .13" shy of 5". This is about the diameter of the bit. Is there a basic setting in the software that allows me to determine what part I want to be exact. Being the hole or the square that was cut from the hole?

Thanks
Jeff

[AskBud]

Ken,
Thanks for the info. After playing with the software a bit, so much more makes sense.

Another basic question is this. I made a simple 5"x5" square cut out, and the actual piece (that was cut out) was about .13" shy of 5". This is about the diameter of the bit. Is there a basic setting in the software that allows me to determine what part I want to be exact. Being the hole or the square that was cut from the hole?

Thanks
Jeff

Remember that the "Center" of the cutter goes along the Cut-Out line.
You, therefore, need to assign an "Offset" of .065 for the 1/8" cutting bit. This "Offset" will place the cutter at the edge of the line.
If you look at the attachment, and review your design, you will be able to see the actual cut. I set my grid to 1" for ease of design.
AskBud

[glassocean]

Remember that the "Center" of the cutter goes along the Cut-Out line.
You, therefore, need to assign an "Offset" of .065 for the 1/8" cutting bit. This "Offset" will place the cutter at the edge of the line.
If you look at the attachment, and review your design, you will be able to see the actual cut. I set my grid to 1" for ease of design.
AskBud

Thank you Bud,
I knew it was something that simple. I also found your web-site/downloads today and find it extremely helpful!

Thanks again
Jeff

[mtylerfl]

Ken,
Thanks for the info. After playing with the software a bit, so much more makes sense.

Another basic question is this. I made a simple 5"x5" square cut out, and the actual piece (that was cut out) was about .13" shy of 5". This is about the diameter of the bit. Is there a basic setting in the software that allows me to determine what part I want to be exact. Being the hole or the square that was cut from the hole?

Thanks
Jeff

Hello Jeff,

The Free Tips & Tricks newsletters will answer most of your basic questions. The Bit Offset function (for moving the bit inside/outside of a line by increments), outlining and cut outs, leaving safety tabs so the piece doesn't fly around in the machine, and so on are all covered in various issues.

I think you'll enjoy learning about your machine and the software by reading the Tips. Save you a few headaches too, as you're getting "up to snuff".;)

Of course, anything you don't find an answer to, you can use the handy Search feature here in the Forum and/or post your questions as required.

[glassocean]

Hello Jeff,

The Free Tips & Tricks newsletters will answer most of your basic questions. The Bit Offset function (for moving the bit inside/outside of a line by increments), outlining and cut outs, leaving safety tabs so the piece doesn't fly around in the machine, and so on are all covered in various issues.

I think you'll enjoy learning about your machine and the software by reading the Tips. Save you a few headaches too, as you're getting "up to snuff".;)

Of course, anything you don't find an answer to, you can use the handy Search feature here in the Forum and/or post your questions as required.
Ok guy's,
The only issue I'm still having on the offset is, how do you set it to cut inside or outside of the line? Mine seem to cut right down the middle.


Jeff

[AskBud]

Ok guy's,
The only issue I'm still having on the offset is, how do you set it to cut inside or outside of the line? Mine seem to cut right down the middle.


Jeff

When you assign the bit, to a closed figure, you may be able to specify the "Inset" (+/-). As an example, the 1/4 bit could be set to 0.125 which would place the edge of the bit against the line rather than down the center of the line. Each bit may have its own limit as to the Inset (offset) allowed.
AskBud

[glassocean]

Thanks Bud,
I'll try that later on today.

Jeff