Package in the mail today

[TWOATLOW8]

Well the package arrived, almost as happy as when i received my carver...
ROCK IS HERE

[cnc4me]

Cant wait to hear how well it works! ROCK ON!

[Wilbur]

Got mine in today as well. Have changed QC with the Rock chuck and running it now.
Carving a picture frame and have just turned it over. Everything is running fine and there is less noise but no change in flex cable temp.
I am now running a fan, blowing across the machine and the flex cable temp has dropped 15 °

Wilbur

[Digitalwoodshop]

Make sure you still have a spring in the Flex.... I found one flattened on the shop floor one time.... Now I "Masking Tape" the end of the Flex to keep the spring and shaft from sliding out when I remove it and to increase my "stock" in Masking Tape...

Got my Rock too. THANKS RON !!!

AL

[lostinthefrost]

DOH! you are lucky. still waiting on mine. I didnt get a shipping notice yet.

[Kenm810]

I got a email yesterday with a tracking number for my Rock Chuck,
it should be here in a day or two. :wink:

[fwharris]

Got mine in today as well. Have changed QC with the Rock chuck and running it now.
Carving a picture frame and have just turned it over. Everything is running fine and there is less noise but no change in flex cable temp.
I am now running a fan, blowing across the machine and the flex cable temp has dropped 15 °

Wilbur


Wilbur,

It might be the top bearing of the z truck. "if" the flex shaft was over lubed with the chain lube with molly, it will run down into the top hat and bearings. Check the temp on the z truck top and bottom and see what the difference is.

[liquidguitars]

You Guys Rock! :)

Ron said that next week he will have the 1/2 QC adapter finished.. been holding off getting one.. :(

is everyone going to go with the shrink wrap on the bit for indexing? I still not clear about how you locate the bit the same way each bit swap..

LG

[chebytrk]

You Guys Rock! :)

Ron said that next week he will have the 1/2 QC adapter finished.. been holding off getting one.. :(

is everyone going to go with the shrink wrap on the bit for indexing? I still not clear about how you locate the bit the same way each bit swap..

LG

My question exactly! I just asked Ron about it cause I'm have a problem getting the bit to catch on the inside of the chuck like he mentions in the video. How much of the bit should stick out of the bottom? I think it might be a good idea to use the shrink wrap for "indexing" like you mention. Just need to know how much of the bit needs to stick out.

[rjustice]

Still on track for next week Brandon. Prototype bodies are now made. I am going to be testing the clamp pressure this weekend. If it passes, you will be the first to get one!

A quick note to everyone. I am going to put another Video up on YouTube, so be sure to subscribe to my channel.

I just want everyone to be aware that in the case that you are using tools that have the setscrew flats, you want to avoid my clamp hitting the flat. You want it to tighten onto the smooth round surface of the shank. If you are using tools that only have one flat, you can put the flat in the direction of the balancing hole to be safe. If you are using the CW bits, it looks like you can insert the tool so that the edge of the 1/4" shank is even with the face (bottom as it is in the machine) with the chuck. This will also be a decent "eyeball reference" eliminating the need to worry about any sort of stop on the tool.

Video will be uploading tonight!

Thanks,

Ron

[rjustice]

My question exactly! I just asked Ron about it cause I'm have a problem getting the bit to catch on the inside of the chuck like he mentions in the video. How much of the bit should stick out of the bottom? I think it might be a good idea to use the shrink wrap for "indexing" like you mention. Just need to know how much of the bit needs to stick out.

This is 1" on the CW carving bit (the machine only goes .8 of z travel)... and 1-3/8 on the CW 1/8 cut out bit. If you measure it out once, you will see what i mean about a visual reference.

[liquidguitars]

Still on track for next week Brandon. Prototype bodies are now made. I am going to be testing the clamp pressure this weekend. If it passes, you will be the first to get one!

This is going to fun, Thanks Ron!


Ron just thinking, what about some 5/16" clear tubing with a bottom that the bit slips into this way you would never touch the bit but get the same depth if jammed into the front face of the adapter.

like a min shot glass for the bit ..

LG

[supershingler]

i thought maybe to make a few 3/4" square blocks of wood and drill them with a 5/16" hole in the center to the depth of what i want left sticking out of the rock chuck. then you could just slide the end that is sticking out of the wood flush to the bottom of the chuck. you should be able to get the same depth that way.

cant wait till my chuck gets here to try different things

let me know what you think

kendall

[rjustice]

One more thought.....

Also Note that the curved edge on the clamp nut will be flush with the outside of the chuck when it is tightened properly. If it sticks out, then it isnt rotated to clamp on the tool shank correctly.... If it is recessed in then you are probably clamping into a flat... Either situation is not correct!... Make sure it is flush....

[liquidguitars]

i thought maybe to make a few 3/4" square blocks of wood and drill them with a 5/16" hole in the center to the depth of what i want left sticking out of the rock chuck. then you could just slide the end that is sticking out of the wood flush to the bottom of the chuck. you should be able to get the same depth that way.

cant wait till my chuck gets here to try different things

let me know what you think

kendall

wood sounds good.. You could make one for each sized bit.. I think the bit would have to lock in the holder jig if pushed up to far in the adapter.

[Rocky]

When you guys are referring to an indexing issue, are you talking about when changing bits for a project that uses multiple bits? If so, then I'm a little confused (maybe it's too early for me today). In another thread, quoted below, I read it to mean that indexing is not an issue because the CW always uses the last "reading" when the bit is changed. What am I missing here?

Quote from another thread:

"Below is a quote from Al from digitalwoodshop that he went into great detail explaining this subject one week ago in another post.
_________________________________________________
OK from the Electronic Side of this bit changing and numbers issue.

Lets say you only use one bit.

The machine does it's bit flag and touches the wood and if a cut path touches the right guide plate. Then off it goes cutting with no problem.


Lets say you have a project with 2 bits, carving and cut path.

You would load the cut path bit and it would do the bit flag, touch the board, and touch the right side guide. It would remember the numbers.

You load the carving bit and it does the bit flag and touches the board and Off it goes cutting.

Now it is time to load the Cut Path Bit. It touches the Bit Plate, Board, and Right Side Guide. Somewhere in all that touching it looks at the numbers it got from the initial loading of the bit. It finds the numbers are Different. It asks you? Something to the Effect Bit Length Does NOT MATCH. 1 Continue and 2 Refind the Bit length.

Press 1 and it forgets all about the red headed step child of a first reading and with ALL NEW READINGS, LENGTH, BIT FLAG, BOARD, and RIGHT Side Guide, then OFF it goes cutting your project Forgetting all about the old numbers... DOES NOT MATTER....



Now lets say you have a 4 Bit Project, V60 ad V90 Text.... With the second time you load the bit it will tell you that the bit does NOT match and give you options 1. Continue or 2. Refind..... In every case the fist reading did not matter.


With a 4 bit project I would be tempted to put in the Carving Bit and let it find the bit length, Bit Plate, Board ALL with the Carving Bit not even bothering to put in the V60, V90, or Cut Path Bit. Saving time and just telling the machine to Continue when it found the length different the SECOND and REAL Cutting TIME.

As for a power failure.... If the carving was still in progress at power fail I would do all the bit checks with the carving bit installed to not loose the height.

OR... You could take the Carving Bit out of the machine, throw it up into the air a few times, catch it behind your back, scratch your ear with it.... Then install it back into the machine and let it do all it's bit checks. It will still find the bit length, bit flag, and board face in a uncarved area just like the first time.

IT DOES NOT MATTER..... Only the bit checks right before carving really matter....

A project carved before the power failure will carve the same depth after the power failure.

It is all about 1. The Bit Flag, and 2. Touching the board. If you have a Cut Path then 3. The Right Side Guide. Place a penny on the right side guide and watch your tabs get thicker...

SO bit Depth markers are unnecessary. Getting a short bit like a V60 to stick out enough that while doing deep text you don't run out of Z Down Travel is important."


Thanks,
_________________

[Wilbur]

I tried this yesterday and it works. I had a two bit carve and used the carving bit you make the measurement for the cutting bit as well.
Wen it came to change bits I changer to the cutting bit and it measured and I got the message, bit Length Does NOT MATCH. 1 Continue and 2 Refine the Bit length.
I choose 1 and everything went the way it was suppose to, It does work.

On my over heating flex shelf. I just replaced the Z truck and it still runs hot even hotter than before by 30°. Got up to 160°.

I used a fan to blow over the machine and through the rest of the carve the temp was down 25 °

The truck or bit was not hot but the cable from where it comes out of the top hat to where it goes into the back of the machine was hot. ????

Does run with less noise and vubration.

I had no problem changing bits. I push bit up until it bottoms out and looks about the same as with the QC. I don't understand the position of the bit to the set screw though.

Wilbur

[forqnc]

Well the package arrived, almost as happy as when i received my carver...
ROCK IS HERE

So how did it work out, still waiting on my shipping notice.

[TWOATLOW8]

forqnc
I was so happy i got the package at noon, didnt want to go back to work, but well with the weekend aproching i decided to go back. Got home and was going to run and install it, well the boss said what are you doing we have abirthday party tonight, I said i was sick. she said to bad your going. since it was on my side of the family. So i didnt get to try it :(

Tonight we leave for a couple day of relaxation her idea :confused:

So wont be back until monday morning ;) i hope:roll:

Sorry hope someone else will reply soon since i cant

[hess]

Got mine on yesterday and did a 6 hr carve.

Wish I had a noise meter. I can work near it or set and watch the carve without hurting and that awful ringing sound it use to make.

The vibes are way gone

you can hear the wood being cut.

TEMPS are down Way down highest temp at any time 103, less then bath water. lower temp has to mean less stress and damage to the unit

So far so good

Hess

[Pratyeka]

The only issue with bit lenght sticking out of the chuck is to make sure you have enough bit lenght to allow for the deepest carve in your project. If your bit is in too deep, you will get a Z axis error because the Z truck will go down too far trying to reach the bottom of your carve and hit the limit.

Several ways to ensure the minimum bit lenght when inserting a bit. On mine, I put a steel washer up into the chuck to act as a stopper. With this, no need to eyeball it, just push the bit up until it hits the stopper.

A sleeve on the bit will achieve the same result, you just need to adjust the sleeve on every bit you use.

A mark on the bit would work too.

[rjustice]

The only issue with bit lenght sticking out of the chuck is to make sure you have enough bit lenght to allow for the deepest carve in your project. If your bit is in too deep, you will get a Z axis error because the Z truck will go down too far trying to reach the bottom of your carve and hit the limit.

Several ways to ensure the minimum bit lenght when inserting a bit. On mine, I put a steel washer up into the chuck to act as a stopper. With this, no need to eyeball it, just push the bit up until it hits the stopper.

A sleeve on the bit will achieve the same result, you just need to adjust the sleeve on every bit you use.

A mark on the bit would work too.

Hi Pratyeka,
Not sure where you put the washer, but the only place it would create a stop is if you have it between the inside bore of the spindle nose and the bit adapter. By clamping on a washer you are doing a couple of things to be aware of.... You are reducing the thread engagement because i only have that surface cleared about .02, and most importantly, you are possibly defeating the precision of the chuck alignment. There is a shoulder that bottoms out on the face of the spindle, when tight. It is the squareness of the contact of those two faces that controls most of the runout at the tip of the tool.. Sorry, but I would recommend that you remove the washer.

Ron

[Rocky]

I tried this yesterday and it works. I had a two bit carve and used the carving bit you make the measurement for the cutting bit as well.
Wen it came to change bits I changer to the cutting bit and it measured and I got the message, bit Length Does NOT MATCH. 1 Continue and 2 Refine the Bit length.
I choose 1 and everything went the way it was suppose to, It does work.

On my over heating flex shelf. I just replaced the Z truck and it still runs hot even hotter than before by 30°. Got up to 160°.

I used a fan to blow over the machine and through the rest of the carve the temp was down 25 °

The truck or bit was not hot but the cable from where it comes out of the top hat to where it goes into the back of the machine was hot. ????

Does run with less noise and vubration.

I had no problem changing bits. I push bit up until it bottoms out and looks about the same as with the QC. I don't understand the position of the bit to the set screw though.

Wilbur

Wilbur, I thought that, unless you were sure that you were re-inserting the bit exactly as before, you would have to press "2" so that the CW would re-measure. But, what do I know? :-)

[Digitalwoodshop]

Wilbur, I thought that, unless you were sure that you were re-inserting the bit exactly as before, you would have to press "2" so that the CW would re-measure. But, what do I know? :-)

Press 1 since the latest measurement did not match the saved version. Press 2 to re measure would just give you the same message.

"One and be Done" I say.....

AL

[liquidguitars]

bit Length Does NOT MATCH. 1 Continue and 2 Refine the Bit length.

if you guys get this message then the bit is not at the same hight.

not a issue for some :mrgreen: , but i will need the bit with in a 1/32" each time in order to re carve a guitar setup if I get a power down. not a big issue, but something to rectify.

Al's post about the indexing twice was wrong as far as i know..

LG

[hess]

Press 1 since the latest measurement did not match the saved version. Press 2 to re measure would just give you the same message.

"One and be Done" I say.....

AL

Hey Al have you cut out anything yet with the cutting bit?

I did hit 2 and it did just like you said. 1 I eat a bit within 1 inch my fault think it was out to far. ran it again but set the bit in with a bit over an inch out and it cut fine for about 4 to 6 inch then snapped.
hess

[Pratyeka]

Hi Pratyeka,
Not sure where you put the washer, but the only place it would create a stop is if you have it between the inside bore of the spindle nose and the bit adapter. By clamping on a washer you are doing a couple of things to be aware of.... You are reducing the thread engagement because i only have that surface cleared about .02, and most importantly, you are possibly defeating the precision of the chuck alignment. There is a shoulder that bottoms out on the face of the spindle, when tight. It is the squareness of the contact of those two faces that controls most of the runout at the tip of the tool.. Sorry, but I would recommend that you remove the washer.

Ron

Hi Ron, don't forget my setup I modified an Eliminator chuck, and the shaft of that chuck was glued inside the CW spindle. The glue formed a lip which is the stopper for 1/2" shank bits. For 1/4 shank bits I insert a washer before inserting the reducer, then the 1/4" shank bit. It all works out nicely.

From your description, your Rock chuck would not like this arrangement. that's cool, many different ways to skin a cat.:D

[Rocky]

Press 1 since the latest measurement did not match the saved version. Press 2 to re measure would just give you the same message.

"One and be Done" I say.....

AL

Sounds good to me, Al.