Z-Truck assembly broke

[flemingswoodworks]

Crap...was working on a project for my wife that had to be done by Monday
but I don't think it's going to happen.My machine just started up and the bit touched the surface to start to carve and BANG the New bit snapped in half and the wheel snaped off the Z-truck assembly.I know I can get a bit by tomorrow but I don't think I can get a Z-truck assembly by then,I don't even know what a Z-truck cost
Will
23208
23209

[mark1945]

A reconditioned Z truck cost 60.00 plus 40.00 core charge.I just bought 1 a few weeks ago.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Everyone take a moment to look at this failure. If you don't have the flat black washer on the lower right Z Truck Screw then you are a Carve Away from a $60.00 Truck, plus $15.00 Shipping, plus $5.00 return core shipping of a new part.

It was found that the taper of the screw head in the lower right screw acts like a wedge and will split the casting. The metal is TOO THIN.

The redesigned Truck that does NOT have the hole for the Probe or Homing Sensor has from what I have heard, thicker metal in that area.

USE A WASHER.... It will save you $80.00..... Use that money to BUY WOOD.....

This tip has been posted at least a DOZEN times by ME and more by others.

AL

[chebytrk]

Everyone take a moment to look at this failure. If you don't have the flat black washer on the lower right Z Truck Screw then you are a Carve Away from a $60.00 Truck, plus $15.00 Shipping, plus $5.00 return core shipping of a new part.

It was found that the taper of the screw head in the lower right screw acts like a wedge and will split the casting. The metal is TOO THIN.

The redesigned Truck that does NOT have the hole for the Probe or Homing Sensor has from what I have heard, thicker metal in that area.

USE A WASHER.... It will save you $80.00..... Use that money to BUY WOOD.....

This tip has been posted at least a DOZEN times by ME and more by others.

AL

Is it any size washer (of course that the screw fits thru)? Any particular instruction on placing that washer. Also, I got my machine in Dec 08 and I thought someone mentioned that it should have had the "updated" Z truck. Does that hold true? Maybe I should just go ahead and put in a washer to be on the safe side. Already spending enough on broken bits and QC, but not for long. Should see my new ROCK this week!

[Digitalwoodshop]

If your Z Motor Cooling fins are even with the back of the Encoder then you have the old Z.

I recommend you get the new Z Bundle. The new Z Motor has shorter cooling fins and the black encoder is exposed. The real change is since the Z Truck jack is no longer used for the Probe Data, that lets them use a thicker 14 pin or wire flat cable from the older 16 pin cable. In this case thicker is better.... Better Electricity Flow or Current flow.... Like a AA battery is equal to the 16 pin and a D Cell Battery is equal to the 14 pin. Both work, but the 14 pin supplies a little more current or PUSH for the Motor. The 16 pin old Z units had a high number of Z Stall's and Air Carves. That was really more about the Encoder pins, solder pads, and copper Traces "in MY opinion" than the 16 conductor wire. But with the new Z Bundle, Z Stall's are a thing of the past. You can still get one with dust in the belt cogs and dirty rails.

After installing the new Z you will need to go into she setup menu and move the selection of the probe data from the Truck to Cover. Until you do that, the machine will say "Scan Area" due to the wiring change.

Any washer will do, a washer that is thicker and has the taper to match the bearing screw is best.

Remember to only turn the wrench and hold the screw head. The bearing screw Philip Heads strip very easy.... HOLD the screw head, turn the wrench......

There are pictures of the bearings posted by me but the bearing nut flat closest to the drilled screw hole will need to be facing out when tight. My process of tightening the bearing is to mark the outside face with nail polish to make it easier to see. Place the wrench on it and level the nut so it faces out. Snug up the screw. Back off the nut 1/8 of a turn and re snug the screw. Then tighten the wrench 1/8 of a turn.

The trick is getting it tight and in the right position and NOT snapping off the screw. I have snapped 2 learning..... I always buy extra screws with the bearings. Lately others have been having luck buying the metric screws at the big box store. There is testing going on right now with Bearing Screws with Hex Allen Key heads making for a better Screw.... And we all know we could use a better.......

Good Luck,

AL

[fwharris]

"I always buy extra screws with the bearings. Lately others have been having luck buying the metric screws at the big box store. There is testing going on right now with Bearing Screws with Hex Allen Key heads making for a better Screw.... And we all know we could use a better......."

Al,

Just a quick update on the hex head screws. They work great for the bottom bearings but for the top bearings the head of the screw is bigger than the std screw and will not fit into the recessed area of the z truck.

[flemingswoodworks]

ordered my Z-truck assembly it cost $85 plus $12 shipping
ouch....but I can't wait until it gets here I miss not being able to play with my machine...I guess I should make sure I put a washer on the new on
will

[Digitalwoodshop]

It will come with one unless it is the new casting with the thicker metal.

AL

[bogwojny]

on your pic of the z truck theres a black clip on the left side does that have to be there and why...my machine didnt come with that clip?????

[Kenm810]

The old style black clip and plactic homing sensor were discontinued
and removed from the "Z" truck about a year ago.
The scanning probe plug has also be moved from the "Z" truck
to the inside keypad side of the machine :cool:

[www.go3d.us]

Any tip on how to unscrew that thing? I tried but it won't move a bit.